Ford - Explorer :: 1994 - Hard To Start Up / Just Won't Crank
Apr 24, 2012
We have a 94 ford explorer and every now and again it has issues on the start up. It will sound like it will want to crank over but just won't. If we wait 20 mins it will start up no problem. We have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil, and fuel pump relay but it still has this problem. Also occasionally the a/c blower wont turn on. Tonight it happened again and I pulled the fuel pump relay out and it was really hot, after it cooled down and was put back in the car started. I am beginning to think it maybe an overheating issue that is affecting the relays but am not sure. I was also wondering about changing out the relay box...
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Sometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
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I've replaced the fuel pump and filter, plugs and coolant temp sensor. It starts after I spray starter fluid in after a few times and cycle the key on to prime the line but is still hard to start. It runs fine and it seems that as long as the engine is warm or (guessing) fuel is still pressurized in the line it starts fine.
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94 Ranger, 4.0, Automatic, 280k miles. Normally starts and always runs fine. Sometimes will crank and not start. Fuel pump replaced Feb. 2015 and again Dec. 2016. Have had it towed 3 times. Always starts when it gets to the mechanic. Sort of reminds me of vapor lock on the old cars with carbs, because if it sits long enough after not starting, it will start, no problem. Never died out or even coughed when running and plenty of power. When I take off the gas cap, it sucks in air like a whale. Twice I did that and it will not start right away, but if it sits for an hour or so, it starts no problem. Just bought a new gas cap 10 minutes ago and looked in a Haynes manual and a " gas tank vapor valve assembly" is mentioned. I don't want to change parts just to see what happens. Mechanics say there are no codes shown.
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1994 Explorer V6 100,000 miles, it is getting fuel and spark. After driving for a short/long period the engine will turn over but won't start. If you floor the gas pedal it will fire up, with a small puff of black smoke out the exhaust. Fuel pressure regulator came first to mind, and has been replaced. Problem was cured for a few days, then it started again.
Next Idle Air Control solenoid. Replaced, with same results. Replaced EGR position sensor. This worked for a few weeks. Then starting issue came back. Then I was told to replace fuel pump relay. This was the last part replaced. It had been running great. Started warm without any issues for a week. But now I have a check engine light and hot start problem again.
If the gas is floored the truck will fire. If gas is not floored the engine keeps turning and turning. I am sure it is not a fuel pump problem, as there gas fumes and the tailpipe is black. Could it be Mass AIR FLOW ?
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1994 BMW 740i... One morning, started my car - it coughed and sputtered and finally died. No check engine light. I tried to get codes from computer using the gas pedal/stomp method and got nothing. More attempts at starting eventually resulted in complete failure of ignition, ie. it will crank but not start. New fuel pump relay. Fuel pressure is good. Battery is new. I tested crank position sensor and got a steady .6 -.8 VAC. I tested the cam position sensor and got a measurement cycling between .6VAC and 0VAC. Could this be the culprit? or is it normal for cam sensor to go to zero during cranking?
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I have a 1994 Ford Explorer XLT. It just died the other night. I have dim dome light, nothing else. I had the battery and alternator tested, both are ok. I get an occasional click when trying to start it. I also get an occasional beeping, the key in the ignition sound. I've checked the fuses, and can't find a broken one.
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1994 Ranger .. Last wednesday I had to get a jump because the lights where left on. Everything was normal on thursday. Friday morning. I went to go start the truck and notice that it would try once to start and then try a second time and it would start. Today I was driving it. The check engine light came on and when I get the RPMs up to shift up, I would loose all power and have to wait till it gets down below 10mph before I would get the power back.
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I've been working on this explorer for a week now and I figured it's time to ask around. My explorer won't start/crank, I've replaced the starter, battery terminals, tested voltages/amps/relays and fuses, still nothing. All i get is a heavy clunk, like the starter is engaging but the flexplate won't budge. It's a 2002 4.0 xlt automatic.
I'm fearing the engine is seized as I've tried manually turning the engine with a socket on the crank pulley bolt and even with a breaker bar I can't get it to move. The thing ran fine a week ago and I can't imagine this thing would seize at barely over 100k miles, not hydrolocked or anything I can think of, are these engines prone for spontaneous seizure or am I missing something?
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I have an Explorer Sport 2001 that will not crank nor start. I have replaced the following:
Crankshaft, camshaft sensors
Ignition coil
Ignition switch, neutral safety switch
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
Starter
The battery is less than 6 months old .. Still, the car will not crank, will not start. I have spark, voltage and fuel.
The PCM does NOT communicate with the scanner. I purchased a used PCM off of eBay. This one does communicate with a scanner and gives the following DTC codes:
P1120-- Throttle Position Sensor out of range
B1601-- Unprogrammed Pats Key
Since the car is in the Caribbean I can't tow it to a dealer.
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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Picked up a super nice 03' as is with a no start. It cranks over nice and smooth, sounds like it has proper compression, and has proper fuel pressure. Tried spraying either in it and it will almost catch.
Tried putting a known good coil pack on it, no dice. Usually when other engine slip timing chains, it will crank rough, like a few cylinders are zero. This is not the case.
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I'm working on a 1997 4.0 ohv and it has a hard start condition on first start up. any after that it will just be a crank no start condition unless you hold the gas pedal to the floor. Replaced the camshaft actuator, plenum gaskets, coolant temp sender and thermostat, fuel pressure is normal.
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I have an 04 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Flex Fuel. There has been loss of power to fuel pump. Relay and fuse both good, replaced the inertia switch...still nothing. Could a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) have anything to do with this issue? Or what should I check next? I am definitely at a loss as to what the issue could be! I know it is fuel related because I used starting fluid and it started right up and run for just a few seconds, so that should rule out ignition I think.
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My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
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I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
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It is a 2006 Explorer with the 4.0 and around 89,000 on the odometer. Around a couple weeks or so ago the wife said the explorer was hard to start one evening and it has been like that ever since. It cranks for about 5 seconds and then fires. So far it has started every time since this issue began. This is really the first issue we have ever had other than the radiator replacement a few years ago.
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I've been having sporadic starting issues with my truck since the fall. I had the spark plugs changed but that did not work. The hard starts usually occur when the engine is hot....after filling gas or just running into the grocery store. The engine seems to turn over slowly the first try and won't start. The second or third try the engine turns over normally and the truck usually starts.
I just got back from a 90 minute drive and shut off the truck for 5 minutes and now it won't even turn over. My thought is that it can't be the battery....its been charging for 90 minutes. Headlights are strong, wipers work fast, fan blows hard. That being said I think alternator or battery can be ruled out?
Where do I look next? Starter? Is there a starter solenoid that could be defective?
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Hard start like it's not getting enough fuel then kicks in and runs great with no hesitations or issues and with plenty of power. Replaced fuel filter, nothing changed.
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Yes, another thread on an explorer that occasionally has trouble starting. One cold morning the fuel pump would not operate. When turning the key to run the volts to the pump (with plug disconnected) was 8.6 for a second, then dropped to the 6v range. I took the inertia switch from the firewall and back probed the wire going to the fuel pump, getting 12 volts. I went back to the fuel tank and measured the voltage with the key in run position, and read battery voltage. The car started, and has not failed in 3 days. I know it will quit again. I was thinking of replacing the inertia switch and fuel pump relay.
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I am having a random hard start condition. it will happen once a week or with no rhyme or reason. It turns over real nice but does not start until the second or third trythe last time on third try i push accel pedal to floor and it started. This hasn't happen in a few day so I cant tell you if the accel pedal will always work.
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