Ford - Explorer :: 1994 - Crank But Won't Start - Fuel Pump Relay?
Aug 21, 2007
Sometimes after running my 94 Limited, it doesn't want to start - it does crank - like it's not getting fuel. I have found the work around and want to know if it would be fixed by replacing the fuel pump relay.
The symptom is just after starting, it starts to run poorly, and then dies out, then will not start at all. I use to keep trying to start it for 20-40 minutes and suddenly it seemed to work.
It seems the work around is to turn the key to on for about 5 seconds and then turn it off - then it starts and runs as good as ever.
So, is this a symptom of a bad relay? I thought I'd start there because of the cost of the relay is fairly cheap. 1994 Explorer Limited 4x4?
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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I have an 04 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 Flex Fuel. There has been loss of power to fuel pump. Relay and fuse both good, replaced the inertia switch...still nothing. Could a FPDM (fuel pump driver module) have anything to do with this issue? Or what should I check next? I am definitely at a loss as to what the issue could be! I know it is fuel related because I used starting fluid and it started right up and run for just a few seconds, so that should rule out ignition I think.
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A cousin has an old 1994 Ranger. The fuel pump relay, located in the engine compartment fuse box. went bad, so he got a new relay.
Now, it does not plug in securely, so sometimes he has to open the hood and fuse box and wiggle it to make contact.
Ideally, one would probably replace the fuse box, though that would apparently involve a lot of wiring, right?
How to "cob" this up so the contacts will make better? Perhaps something to put in the slots to increase pressure on the blades?
Maybe gently twist the blades so they go in at an angle? Maybe touch the blades with a solder iron and put on a small blob of solder to make the blade bigger? (Though it seems to me that solder is not a good contact material?
Maybe solder to the blades, a very small piece of brass or similar material? Put a piece of aluminum foil over the blades?
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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My jimmy died on me yesterday on my way home from work...i thought the fuel pump went because i couldn't hear it when trying to restart... I had about a quarter tank of regular in there,,,put in 2 gallons of super and it started, but died again about a quarter mile down the road...got it home with a push...after searching for and checking any fuses i could find...swapped relays on firewall and all seemed well....i heard the pump and it fired right up...went walked, just in case) and got another relay, and now i don't hear the pump again,the battery is a bit low now,,,so maybe a jump would give me enough juice? I'm going to jumper the wires/relay...and be sure the pump is working... I'm sure it is.. 94 jimmy 4.3 vortec 140k I gotta pick up my wife from work later and don't want to get stuck again...
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1994 Buick Century 3.1
Fuel pump relay is not powering the fuel pump. I was able at one point to jump the orange wire to the gray wire but it will not even do that now. I know the fuel pump works because I can jump from the battery to the gray wire and it will turn on.
I used a multimeter and tested the volts from the orange wire on the relay to the neg post on the battery and it is only reading about 1.3 volts. Is this normal?
Checked the fuel pump 15a fuse and it is ok. I am getting spark. Could it be the crank sensor? How can I test that? (It is above the start I believe). Could it be the ignition control module? How to test? Location? What else can I test with the multimeter and post back with the results to further diagnose?
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A friend of mine have a 94' Explorer with the 4.0 v6. Fuel pump starts for 2-3 sec when i turn the key, stops when cranking and starts again when i stop cranking. i checked the fuel shutoff switch and it was ok, and it have spark.
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We have a 94 ford explorer and every now and again it has issues on the start up. It will sound like it will want to crank over but just won't. If we wait 20 mins it will start up no problem. We have changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil, and fuel pump relay but it still has this problem. Also occasionally the a/c blower wont turn on. Tonight it happened again and I pulled the fuel pump relay out and it was really hot, after it cooled down and was put back in the car started. I am beginning to think it maybe an overheating issue that is affecting the relays but am not sure. I was also wondering about changing out the relay box...
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1999 4.6L won't start after sitting a month. Ran fine before, now won't start. Cranks fine. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on when key is turned. Fuel pump fuse is good.
Fuel pump relay clicks a few times when key is turned. Is this normal? I am hoping it is the relay and not the pump. What should I check next? The wires at the pump? What should they read?
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I see several threads regarding engines that wont start for no apparent reason. My reason was a failed fuel pump relay. This sucker is hidden in the dash below and to the left of the radio. I got to it by taking out the ash tray. There are three relays under the cover. The upper left is the fuel pump relay. The one to the right is the turn signal relay. I don't know what the bottom left is for.
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I have a 1996 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.4L (without Passkey anti-theft) which on occasion won't start after being parked. The fault only happens when the vehicle has been sitting, it does not die while being driven (so far). The engine cranks normally but does not fire. The peculiar and significant thing about the fault is that the fuel pump relay (driven directly by the PCM), chatters at about a 10 Hz rate. Instead of receiving a steady 12VDC to keep it energized, it is receiving a pulse stream from the PCM.
The first few times this occurred, I heard the relay "chattering " under the hood , and was able to start the van by unplugging the relay and shorting the connector terminals for the contacts together with a wire jumper ( these terminals connect "hot at all times" 12VDC from the PCM fuse (orange wire) through the relay contacts to the fuel pump +ve). The electric pump would run and I could start the engine easily. By the time I arrived at my destination, the fuel pump relay 'drive' would be normal and I could plug the relay back in and continue normal operation.
The last few times this problem occurred, the van would not fire -- no spark as long as the relay drive was pulsing. When it would finally go back to normal operation of the relay, the engine would start OK.
Last Spring in cold weather I had the van towed 2 blocks to a Pontiac dealer with this problem. The problem resolved before they inspected it; however after the Technician's inspection the Service Advisor said there was no fuel pressure at the test port and that the pump must be deffective (shorted), overloading the relay causing it to chatter. That diagnosis made no sense to me. They wanted to replace the fuel pump as the solution ($600). I got past the Service Advisor and asked the mechanic to show me the fuel pressure -- the car started on the hoist when I tried it, and fuel pressure was normal (>30psi). I left with just the relay changed, as they thought the original would have burned -up contacts from excessive current to the pump. (I cut it open later and found its' contacts to be perfect). While at the dealership I asked the S.A. if he knew of any TSBs, or other incidences of this problem; he said he had not heard of this problem before.
I had the same problem one week later, but not again all summer until this Fall's cold and wet weather. I had to have the vehicle towed home and it still wouldn't start the next day. As soon as I accessed the PCM behind the glove box and jiggled it the relay chattering stopped and car could start. However, later the same day, still in the driveway, the fault was back and no amount of jiggling or other manipulations had any effect. Later still I went out to test for spark, and the fault was gone. (Cold, wet weather all day).
Vibration seems to have little effect. I have checked the PCM connectors' security and pulled, twisted and wiggled the wires coming from it, as mentioned above, to no effect. I suspect the fault is inside the PCM and is thermally induced by cold weather. The next time it happens I will try a warm hair dryer on the aluminum housing of the PCM. I wonder if there is a fix for this (repair a cracked solder joint, etc.) other than replacing the PCM. I work in electronics, and will open the PCM up and inspect it before forking out for a new one.
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I own a 2003 Limited with the 6.8 V10. I drove the truck on Sunday and all appeared to be fine, gas gauge was setting just under a half tank. When I went to start it yesterday, it would not start. Strong crank, no start. I checked my fuse and it was fine. Fast forward to this morning, since I had kind of depleted the battery with attempting to start, I put my little jump start pack on it and gave it a whirl. Truck started fine but the gas gauge was sitting on empty. I had five gallons of gas in the garage so I added that to the tank then drove to the local gas station to add more fuel. I put another 10 gallons in the tank so it should have roughly 16 or 17 gallons in the tank. Gauge shows 3/4 tank but miles to empty is right around 175 miles which would seem right with 17 gallons in the tank. I suspect the fuel pump. I don't really want to spend $500 on the Motorcraft unit but was wondering if the group believes the Delphi or the Bosch units are quality replacement parts?
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I have a 2000 4.0 Explorer that sometimes will not start. It has happened on cool mornings as well as hot days after I shut it off, for example, shutting it off to fuel up. I always turn the key to the on position and wait a second or two before cranking, and when I do that, I can usually hear the fuel pump. It's when I don't hear the fuel pump that I know it won't start, and sure enough, crank and no start. My question is, is the fuel pump going out? Or another thought I had was maybe the inertia switch starting to fail? It runs great when it starts, just has a problem starting sometimes.
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My parent's bought a 2002 Explorer 4.0 V6 very early, either late '01 or early '02 when it first came out. Besides the dash blackout (which I found a fix for, need to do) it's been plauged latley (since Nov/Dec 2010) with the intermittent issue of when... You turn the key on to start, you dont hear the fuel pump enguage, thus no start. Get towed, it works like a champ.
It's blown a fuse 1 or 2 times cause of this, had the fuel pump recently replaced (dec/jan this year) and just did it again. Our local Ford dealership figured the fuel pump went bad from sitting, the vehicle only has about 33k miles on it (dad dont drive much). What appears to be a bad fuel pump, only to have it get towed, or sit overnight and start like nothing ever happened?
Dad's ranting about not trusting the vehicle anymore, he's 80yrs old so I can't blame him for wanting to feel comfortable with knowing his vehicle should start, but it is a machine, they do break but we cant seem to get this fixed.
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My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
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We have a '92 Pontiac Trans Sport with a 3.1L V6 TBI engine. Last Sunday evening it refused to start like someone left the transmission in Drive and the Park/Neutral switch was preventing it to start. There's the buzz sound from the fuel pump when you put the key on then nothing when you turn it to start the engine.
I checked the Park/Neutral swith by connecting an ALDL cable to the OBD port and it indicates correctly when I move the lever to Drive or Parking/Neutral. The only error code stored is "Fuel Pump Relay" but the Fuel Pump appear to be working?!
Battery is good, fuel pump fuse intact and the Park/Neutral switch appear to be working. How we can tackle this problem?
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I've got a 2002 Ford Sports Trac that won't start ! It will crank till battery dies but is not getting fuel. I have had it towed 4 times in the past year. of the 4 times,this last time it wont start. Every time that I have had it towed back to my house and dropped in the driveway it has started up with no problems. It will run for a few months or more.This last time it would not.
Could this be an electrical problem.Maybe loose ground somewhere or something else. Would like to rule out some things before investing in a fuel filter or fuel pump. Would hate to buy new FuelPump and that not be the problem. Can't find free wiring diaghrams for this issue.
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I purchased a 94 Ford Explorer 4x4 4.0L w/ Automatic transmission with Overdrive. Great work truck, but I am finding that these had a lot of wiring problems. First thing that messed up with me is the backup lights wouldn't work. Then the dash lights and parking lights stopped working (Still no fuses where bad). Then about 2 weeks later, I was on my way home when It just died like someone had turned the switch off, I pulled off the side of the Interstate, and after checking my fuses/Relays under the hood.
I found that the EEC Fuse (30AMP-BIG Fuse) had blowed, I didn't have one and the truck wasn't off the road good, So I wrapped a small wire around the fuse to see if I could start it and get it out of the road better, It started right up, but soon as I pulled it off the road it died again, and I found that it melted the EEC Relay, I went to the parts store and got a new relay and fuse and put them in, It blows the fuse as soon as I put it in, with the switch off or on. I just need to know what things will cause this so I can check them out one by one, until I find the one that is causing this problem, cause It run great up till this happen.
Only other thing I may need to let you know, Is when I bought it, the key switch would start it, The guy had put a push button starter switch that you push to start it with the key on, I unhooked it, and it started fine with the key for a while then it stopped again, so I had to hook the push button back up and had been using it until it stop running with me.
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I have a 94 honda civic. It's been having problems starting. When it won't start you have to pump the gas a lot and it will then start. You can smell a lot of fuel when this happens so unsure if it is the pump. Maybe it's a combination of several things. Replaced spark plugs, new wires connecting to battery. And just put in a new fuel filter. All seemed to slightly work for a minute. But now driving today went to start the car and it wouldn't stay running if I let go of the key. Finally got it to stay on seemed fine then as I was driving and wasn't pressing on the gas peddle the car started losing power so I pressed the peddle it sputtered (kinda sounded like something clogged in tail pipe) and regained power.
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I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
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