Got a '94 Explorer 4WD that needs a new tranny modulator. Is there an easy way to get at it on the side of the tranny? The catalytic converter heat shield is in the way and I can't seem to get it out or gain access to the modulator area without removing the catalytic converter.
View 9 RepliesHave an 89 shorty, 3.0 with the a4ld tranny. Every once in a while, the other day being the worst, the tranny will not engage right away, not in D, and then not in R either... go back to D, wait about 20 secs, and it then acts fine.... but it's was a scarey 20 secs!
it only happens when it's cold, and hasn't been running... the fluid does need a change, and it will slip sometimes when it's warm in first gear, but not often. it's like a reddish brown color right now.
Is it time for a new tranny? or should I try to do a gentle flush on her first to see if that works... or just do a new filter and new tranny fluid for that... some people say it could make things worse, some say better....
I have a 94 ranger with the a4ld in it. When I bought the truck the trans was shot so I took it out and rebuilt it including new pump and torque converter. Now after putting it back in the truck wont move. so i took one of the lines off of the cooler and there is no fluid moving...?????what should i do before i cut my losses and blow the damn thing up??
View 12 RepliesI have found a 97 explorer 4x4 with a v6 and auto trans priced really cheap. It has something called control track on it. Everything is in real good shape except the trans. It only works in reverse. Is there a common failure on these trans that might cause this ? from what Ive read this is a awd set up. that's is 4wd -all the time. If the trans is a major repair I would rather do away with the awd and convert to a simpler 2wd. Would such a swap be advisable ? I m wondering about wiring harnesses, sensors, cars computer, etc.
View 1 RepliesMy 4WD sport trac was running fine. I took it off road and put it in 4WD. After I was done in the woods. I put it back into 2WD and backed up to unlock. I then drove 2 hours home. The next day the transmission started shifting funny, especially overdrive almost like I was low on fluid. (which I check and I'm not) And the truck sounds like its running ruff. Is my transfer case still ingaged? Do I need to take it in for tranny work?
View 9 RepliesI have a back up vehicle which my son uses occasionally. It's '1994 Mercury tracer. All the transmission fluid appears to be on the ground. Would that mean the transmission is no good! We haven't driven it but once this summer. My son bought some transmission fluid and put it in.
View 8 RepliesMy 94 accord lx just received a replacement motor and tranny from jdm auto.its from a 95 odyssey. I had to swap throttle bodies, distributor... from the old one cuz the new one didn't have cruise control components, external coil... Now its seems rather gutless and it wont down shift when in d4 or d3 unless I come to complete stop, but sometimes it stays in 4th which sucks at an intersection! Also the shifter moves freely from first to neutral without pressing the button. and of course check engine light is on constantly. I've played with tranny cables fuses are good, reset ecu, fluid is new... every thing seems fine and the tranny that we took out down shifted fine so I must be missing something simple. timing?
View 3 RepliesI live out in the sticks, and leaked out a lot of tranny fluid. the fill plug in the pan is rusted bad. can I add fluid using the cooler line and a pump? so i can drive it to the repair shop.
View 4 RepliesI have a 71 F250 4x4 with the 435 and recently had the tranny out to replace the output shaft i believe its called, and other than the shaft it seemed all was well. Shortly thereafter it became impossible to shift it into 4th gear without it grinding. I am able to minimize it by double clutching and keeping the rpms right, but the grind is unavoidable and its only 4th gear, all others shift fine. I was hoping there was a way to adjust the clutch but if not am i going to have to pull it back out and look at the fork and gears? But like i said, we just had it out and the fork and gears seemed fine.
View 5 RepliesI'm replacing my clutch components in my 89 Ranger with an M5OD transmission. While I'm doing it I'm going to replace the input shaft seal on the transmission. I'm looking for the torque specs for the housing that holds the seal.
Also, should there be any play on the input shaft? My transmission has never made any noise but I noticed some slight play in the shaft.
First off, I just traded another vehicle for a 97 mountaineer, 5.0 v8 AWD with about 171k miles on it. Runs and drives real nice, but on occasion under normal acceleration i get a slight shudder when it shifts into high gear. The tranny fluid does look and smell a bit old, but not burnt. I plan on changing it if you think it would fix the problem and not cause more.
Also, I think the ball joints are shot. The camber is in on the front tires and i get some pretty good clunks when I go over bumps in the road. Steering wheel is tight. I jacked it up and tried wiggling the tires but i couldn't get them to move like that. I'm assuming ball joints still though right? And if so, how hard of a job is that for a DIY'er?
Also i noticed a bit of a whine coming from under the truck when turning into my driveway. Transfer case I'm assuming? What could cause a slight whine and how do i fix it? I plan on changing the fluid in that too.
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 188,000 miles on it. I bought it used with 110K miles and put a new tranny in at that time. Now, I am having problems. I don't know if it's the tranny or the engine. It looses power when climbing hills. It takes off really slow with no power and finally gets up to speed it switches gears the whole time smoothly but the engine just can't take a load.
The check engine light came on and put out 10 codes:
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent
P1747 Electronic Solenoid A-Short Circuit
P0743-Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0750-Shift Solenoid "A"
P0755-Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760-Shift Solenoid "C"
P0765-Shift Solenoid "D"
P0135-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0155-O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P1409-EGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Malfunction
Those are the codes and I don't know how one has anything to do with the other. I checked the dip stick on the tranny and it's clean. Juicy red and not shavings.
A4LD transmission NOT RELEASING LOCKUP in both 3rd and 4th? My 1991 Ranger 4.0 will get into lockup sooner than normal(comparing the recent past), and would stay in lockup long enough to make the engine shudder when I slow down to come to a stop. (much like holding 4th gear without putting in the clutch when you approach a stop.
It doesn't die out and does shift into the proper gear but only after the RPMs dive down to probably 400 and the vehicle shudders a bit. Received and replaced the throttle position sensor today, looking to do the vacuum modulator this w/e. Any other possibilities?
My 1994 Explorer is stuck in 4 low. None of the lights are on in the dash or at the switch. I got the switch out & with a test light running I have weak power at the top left terminal better power at the 2nd, 3rd &4th on the right. No power on the opposite terminals. Is my switch bad or do I have a different problem. Also how do you remove the switch from the dash vent ?
View 1 Replies95 3.0 aerostar. There was plenty of ATF in the vacuum line, hopefully this modulator replacement will fix the loss of ATF and will stop the oil from over filling, I had like 3 quarts above the dipstick line, I am assuming this was ATF going into the crankcase because of the bad modulator...
View 3 RepliesFor a while now my transmission has only been able to shift manually for about the first mile of travel when cold or if it sits for more than a couple of hrs.
I drove it that way for a while. Now it only shifts manually all the time and I have to shift from 2nd straight to overdrive. It won't shift to 3rd but stays in second gear until I shift to OD. Then I do have OD.
Working on a friend's Explorer. The car idles fine, but once he starts driving and gets to about 35 mph, second or third gear, the car loses power and eventually dies. MAF sensor replaced, no change.
View 2 RepliesI'm replacing the compressor and accumulator on my Explorer. I'm having the shop evacuate the system, but they want to fill it with R134, so I'd rather use the cans if I can find out how many ounces it needs. I'm seeing conflicting information on the refrigerant capacity for the 94. Is there an authoritative source, like the factory service manual?
View 3 RepliesBought a used 94 explorer xlt. It came with brand new Wrangler tires. The day we bought it we were driving home and it started shaking and wobbling at about 95kms and but seemed to improve after 115. So I took it to the tire shop next day and had all 4 tires rebalanced. The shop told me that all were out to lunch. The worst was 2 ounces out. Ok cool. Was certain that was the problem. Paid the guy and took off. Got on the highway and same damn thing. The steering seems very tight. No bangs. No knocks. Just the bloody shaking. Oh and also the abs light comes on just as it starts to shake. I don't wanna head to a garage to find out some nightmare when I get there. Want some heads up on it first.
View 2 RepliesWhere the modulater valve is on my A4LD tranny. I have a 93' ranger XLT extra cab 2wd with 4.0 engine. I have looked all over the tranny and thought it would be somewhere I could see it. I know I had one on my old full size Ford truck with C6.
View 7 RepliesI've replaced the fuel pump and filter, plugs and coolant temp sensor. It starts after I spray starter fluid in after a few times and cycle the key on to prime the line but is still hard to start. It runs fine and it seems that as long as the engine is warm or (guessing) fuel is still pressurized in the line it starts fine.
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