Ford - Explorer :: 1993 - Intermittently Started Running Very Rough
Aug 31, 2005
I have a 93 Ford Explorer, manual transmission. About a month ago it intermittently started running very rough. I does this wether the weather is rainy or not. The engine has done this when it just started up, cold, and when it's been fully warmed up. I have been able to drive it, but it has been quite a challenge. When running, there is a very noticeable noxious exhaust smell. The check engine light has come on some of the time. When the eec codes were checked it only revealed 522, the car wasn't in park or neutral when running the test.
I have tried clearing and rerunning this test several times, yet 522 still shows up. No other fault codes. Don't know how this would cause engine to perform so bad. The fuel tank has been near full when it happened so I believe the gas to be good/ no water. The engine has a lot of mileage on it, over 200K, so I'm not sure if something inside could be malfunctioning, but don't know how to check. The car will run for days very smoothly before this happens again. I have changed plugs, wires and the pcv valve and it still occurs. It's like the engine is hitting on one cylinder when it happens.
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I have been puzzled to why my truck isn't running right. We were driving down the highway one day and*then all of the sudden it starts running really rough. I changed MAF sensor, plugs and plug wires, oil change, fuel filter and air filter. Still doing the same thing. What this could be? 2003 ford sport trac..
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2003 ford explorer 4.6L. This truck will start and run rough high temp low oil light come on and temp gauge is pegged hot. Oil gauge is fine though, checked oil its fine.
I checked coolant reservoir its ok.
If I shut truck off and restart it will run ok and rev like normal and then all of a sudden go into limp mode and will misfire etc...
What sensor seems to be the main culprit?cht sensor???
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I have 2007 explorer with the 4.6 V8....
Recently it started running horrible. Rough idle, drives badly, hesitation, etc. Check engine light is on, code P0171. I cannot find a vacuum leak, and i am pretty much at a loss. Before it started running poorly i replaced the thermostat, and flushed the coolant. I am assuming this is a coincidence.
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Headlights won't come on. They used to work but started flickering and quit working. (1993 Explorer).
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93 explorer 215000 miles on it runs like a champ 99.9% of the time. I am on my way home today on the highway going 75mph when all of sudden it started slowing down and sputtering. I quickly pulled over and as I did the car shut off. When I was pumping the pedal nothing would happen. I initially thought fuel pump is dead as I dont know if its been replaced. 45 minutes later on the side of the highway after multiple times trying to start, it does and I cruise the next 20 miles home no problems at all????
Got home started it a few times, NO PROBLEMS!
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The sensor on the dash by the windshield has fallen. I assume behind the dash. The DRL flash intermittently. So I turn my headlights on. How do I find this sensor that has fallen out of place. I assume that's why they flash ?
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I have a 93 pontiac grand am 3300 V6 with auto tranny. My problem is cooling fan starts running as soon as car is started. AC not on or defrost. In turn doesn't allow engine to reach normal operating temp. I have replaced both the ect sensor & gauge sending unit. I've noticed there's a red light with temp symbol in lower left hand corner of instrument panel that stays on & won't allow ac to come on. Also if I unplug fan relay & allow engine to come up to operating temp the light hoes off. Until the engine drops below 200degrees then it'll come on again. It has just the one fan & I have ruled out the fan relay cause I replaced with a new one. Also, looking for wiring diagram for the rest of relays on firewall & as to what they control.
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I have a weird intermittent problem. Sometimes when I start my explorer it will idle down and die immediately, I restart and it will idle about 400-600 really rough, sounds like it is missing. When I drive it it is jerky and the acceleration is sluggish but after I get it up to about 20 mph it clears out and then drives and idles fine until I shut it down. Plus these things only happen about every third time (on average) that I drive it. Lastly it's not giving me any codes. What this could be?
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My 2002 Ford Explorer 4L V6 is running rough I found out why I just don't know what the piece is called because I need a replacement. Mine fell off and fell down the engine and melted quite a bit. Also the part number on my piece doesn't work anywhere, that I have typed it in. Mine has a Ford part number of 1L2U-9F764-AC. Also need to know the proper Ford number. I have a picture I found online with an arrow pointing to the piece I need.
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Just replaced my rear gas tank. Drove for a week with no big issues. Started running a little rough just thought it was debri in the fuel line. While it was sitting for a few days fuel was coming out of the carburator. It drained 15 gallons of fuel from the tank. There was pressure building in the tank when I took off the gas cap. Dropped fuel tank and everything seems to be hooked up ok. Put it back now added gas now the truck wont start even using starting fluid.
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Ok, so I have a 2004 F250, with 6.0L. when driving at a steady speed (doesn't matter what speed), the engine will run rough when coming to an idle, and stay running rough until I shut it off and let it sit for a bit.
After I cycle the key a few times it will fire up and run fine, so I came to the conclusion that air is getting in the fuel system. I then took the filter cap off that is located in the engine bay and cycled the key, which produced a lot of bubbles, which I am assuming shouldn't happen.
I guess my question is, should I have air bubbles in the filter bowl, when cycling the ignition?
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My explorer has been running a little rough, particularly at idle. When I take off from a rough idle, it'll run rough until I hit 25-30mph. I ran by O'Reilly's hoping to pick up a pack of spark plugs and be done with it, ended up leaving with a new MAF sensor. It ran better for about 10 miles (I'm a delivery driver, so I did a lot of stop and go immediately), before it ran even worse than it did before, but at least my CEL finally came on. Took it back to O'Reilly's and they read a MAF sensor code and a catalytic system code (didn't ask for the codes, and now realize that was a mistake).
So today I took it to a muffler shop to have the catalytic system diagnosed. They looked at it for 10 minutes and told me they didn't think it was the converter. They said it seemed more like the EGR valve or solenoid, or the IAC. He scanned the codes again and got multiple "running lean" codes (0171, 0174, etc). The guy said I didn't have a vacuum leak, so I think I can rule that out. Unfortunately, the truck idled fine the whole time so he didn't feel comfortable giving me a definitive answer. He told to to leave the EGR valve hose unplugged for a few days and see if anything changes. I'm thinking about running a bottle of fuel cleaner through it or taking off the IAC and/or EGR and cleaning them myself.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Dakota with a 5.2l MPFI and auto trans that has me and many other mechanics stumped. Recently it stalled on me when I pulled it into the driveway, and ever since it has had this problem.
When I start it up in the morning and it's cold, the problem isn't as bad, but as it warms up it gets worse. It sounds like it's running rough, but its firing on all cylinders. I've verifies this by pulling the plug wires and also the fuel injector wires, and each one will bog the engine down a bit. Also, when I'm cruising or parked, if I hold the throttle at 1000 rpm or less, it loads up and will stall when I let off the throttle. I have to bump the throttle to about 1500 rpm or so when pulling up to a light so that it won't stall on me. When I hold the throttle and it loads up, I can read the o2 sensor with a scanner and it shows 0.8 or 0.9v, so I know it's running rich. If I let off, the sensor reads normal. It's not super rich, but enough that it causes this problem.
Things I've tried so far:
- Replaced plugs, wires, cap, and rotor
- New coil (old one had cracks in the case)
- Checked distributor for play in the shaft, timing chain for looseness, and cam sensor for damage
- Has a new PCM, swapped back to old one and the problem still exists
- Checked fuel pressure with and without regulator, is within specs cold or warmed up, no odd drops in pressure
- Checked all sensors with scanner to verify they read within specs
- Replaced all sensors with known good used AND new and none made any difference (o2 sensor, MAP sensor, TPS, air intake temperature, idle air control, coolant temp sensor)Plugs are brown/tan colored, none are blatantly rich
- Replaced the battery, alternator, and checked all grounds
- Checked the EGR system for correct operation
- Checked for vacuum leaks and broken wires, found none
The truck also has no catalytic converter and only has 1 pre-cat o2 sensor. I also am not getting any codes.
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I just bought a 2007 6.0 with 239k miles on the truck, it has EGR delete and ARP head studs. When i bought it the owner warned me of injector stiction...
I drove the truck for about a week, changed the oil over to Rotella T6 with archoil, and swapped out the air filter so far. (previously was non synthetic rotella). I drove the truck 2 more times since changing those two items and then i had a no start issue.
Scanguage2 said it was FICM sync.....so i messed with the wire loom, and got it to start twice but it died right away. (it had ficm sync, then it died and went back to 0) So i ordered a CPS pigtail and was going to change it out today.
Today i went out and pushed on the CPS sensor directly, charged both batteries and the truck started rough but kept running after two times (still haven't changed the pig tail)
Now it starts but is still running rough.
Scangauge 2 Running:
IPR : 23.8
ICP : 581
FICM SYC : 1
FMP : 48.5
The only code i'm getting is P0269 which I'm hoping is only injector 3, a bad injector wouldn't cause all this would it?
I'm just trying to figure out what i should look at next.
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So my truck is intermittently running rough at idle for the most part and sometimes slightly loses a little power while driving down the roads. Seems to run worse as it warms up. When it runs rough it sounds like a cylinder is missing. The truck is throwing code P0269 for Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance. Smoking isn't horrible coming out of exhaust but it's there and it comes out at a constant rate. The injector has been replaced by the previous owner recently. It has an egr delete, new turbo, ficm, ficm harness, HPOP, and stand pipes.
When I put the starter solenoid wire to the battery you can hear the engine skip. I did a compression test on cylinder 3, put oil in the cylinder and did the test again to find that I still didn't have compression. Assuming that this was an issue in the head I had my doubts that it was a bent valve and it could have been a bent pushrod.
Sure enough I found the intake pushrod for cylinder 3 was bent slightly so I replaced the pushrod. I started the truck again and seemed fine at first but just like before it started to run worse as it warmed up.
I was able to drive it to the gas station real quick to fill it up on fuel and drove back home which is a short drive, but the truck was running worse and worse and it eventually died on me. I attempted to start and had to jump start from my other truck and the 6.0 would not start. I ended up frying the starter trying to start it so I'm taking a break from it for now.... Ended up pushing the truck home.
The only thing I can figure is that I don't have oil pressure in the oil rail which is why it died but I don't understand why the truck still ran rough and pulled up with the same P0269 code....
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On my V8 02 XLT Explorer the engine is running rough like it's missing.
I think a coil may have gone bad,,found a LOT of anti-freeze down in the spark plug hole.
Have replaced the intake but now need to fix the roughness.
Is there any easy way to check each coil? Or should I be checing something else?
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I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
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I have a 2000 ford explorer. 4x4 v6. One day i started it up and it was running rough. It had real sluggish power. Then the check engine light came on. I hooked it up to the code machine. The only readout was number 3 misfired. I replaced the plug and all was fine. A few months it happend again. I replaced it again and it was fine. Well it just happened again. I replaced it again. It ran good to work but on the way back no good. Light came on again. Hooked up the machine it read number 4 misfired and number 2 bank lean. So I replaced number 4. It still runs like shit rough idle and no power. Give it gas it dogs out but then it'll kick in if i get on it. Thinking it maybe a vaccum leak or intake leak or o-rings.
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I have a 98 ford explorer just changed the alternator and now its running rough also it sounds louder than normal from the muffler. I am clueless, what the problem can be?
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I have a 98 sport 4.0 i bought awhile back and its been running rough.. When driving it seems to cut out.. I had it scanned and it has code PO453 which is pressure sensor.. I was told they replaced the fuel pump when i got it.. After driving and i get out i can smell gas on the drivers side.. I replaced the gas cap but no change.. I was just wondering about this code and what i should start with first..
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