Ford - Explorer :: 1993 - Cuts Out Almost Like It Is Going To Stall
Oct 24, 2011
Okay so my dads 93 explorer seems like its starving for gas, it cuts out almost like its going to stall, hasn't stalled yet, but it seems like its not getting enough gas, new fuel filter and still having the same problem, fuel pump isn't that old either, just started doing it maybe thursday. We haven't really looked much into it yet, but what it could be?
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I just bought a volvo 240, cuts off and stalls while driving. Wondering what hose this is.
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I've got a 2010 Camry. I've had it since new and it's been pretty well maintained. Recently, I've been having an issue where it cuts like it wants to stall out when I stop after driving.
The idle will also surge, but it's a small surge, from like 750 rpm to 1,000 and then back to 750. Last night after driving, it dropped to around 500rpm for s second and I thought it was going to stall, but it didn't.
I love the car, so I'm hoping it's not a serious issue. 6 speed manual with about 130,000 miles. Other than this and a small exhaust leak, it's running great.
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My Jeep GC ZJ 1993 with 202202 miles V8 engine and automatic transmission cuts off/engine shuts down. I have found that when I put it into 2nd or 1st gear it never shuts off. For example, I am driving with AT in D (Drive) and come to a stop, the engine shuts down. However, if I move the selector to 2nd before coming to a stop it never shuts down. BTW it also shudders and headlights dim and battery voltage drops before it shuts down.
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Has happened twice. No check engine light, no code. Lights and electronics stay on, beeps like the door is open, shuts off and I am able to turn it right back on. Definitely do not want this happening on the highway. Don't have any other issues with idle, etc..
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I have a 93 Prelude that randomly shuts down and stalls. When this happens there are no signs of life in the car. All lights and accessories shut off and the car stalls. After anywhere from 2 mins to 15 mins you will be able to restart the car and continue on your way. I am the only owner of the car. It has 83,000 miles on it. At this point it happens very randomly without warning. Usually about 3 or 4 times a month.
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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The 93 Cutlass Ciera 3.3 6 cyl. is hard to start..takes like 3 tries to start it...even after changing..oxygen sensor, MAF sensor, coil pack, fuel filter, air filter, good plug wires, crank position sensor, fuel pump, sending unit....if idling low will stall sometimes. Mechanic said it's slow getting spark up just when starting it..not sure why..
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1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
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My 93 ford explorer has a factory alarm. It went off this morning, 2am! in the rain. I tried the remote, nothing, tried the second remote, nothing. Honking and lights flashing, I disconnected the battery to calm the neighbors and hopefully reset everything. I also disconnected the horn. After reconnecting the battery, and waiting a few minutes, the alarm again triggered.
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My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
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I have a 93 explorer it ran fine then when I drove it today it stalled put it in park it started but wont go into gear when shifted?
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My brother in law has a 93 explorer which developed a serious transmission leak and had to be towed home. We suspected a blown front seal, which we replaced. We also replaced the transmission filter and pan gasket. When we started it up, it seemed like it was stuck in gear and wanted to move forward no matter what gear it was set to. Even wanted to go in park and neutral. We topped off the fluid, and finally got park to work, but all other gears including reverse want to go forward and it seems as though it is not shifting at all. Could we have forgotten a connection of some sort, of could something internal been damaged when the fluid was lost?
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A warm startup on my 2007 Explorer causes an RPM spike and subsequent stall (half of the time) on the way back down. I've tried a fuel additive, Ford ran codes with no problems...
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I took my 1993 Ford Explorer for an oil change they told me I also needed a rear differential service and a transmission service, so I told them to go ahead (this was on a wednesday). On friday the car broke down leaking transmission fluid (reddish oil). The clutch was making a sound when pushed in and we were not able to shift. I towed it back to the place where the oil was changed the gentelman open something under the car and he said that it had transmission fluid. He got on the car turned on and push the clutch when he did that a lot of fluid began coming out (reddish oil). He said it was the clutch that went out. We think they messed up the transmission. I towed the truck to a garage and the guy mentioned something about a plug related to the transmission. Could the oil people have done something wrong to the transmission that made the car break down???
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The axle seal is bad on my 93 Explorer, manual, 4x4 both sides. The shocks and leaf springs are also shot. Instead of replacing the seals, was advised to just replace the entire axle and pick one up at the boneyard with springs.
I am wondering what axles from other vehicles will work? I have been able to find this before through RockAuto's website but there is no information concerning rear axle. Is there a source showing interchangeable parts between vehicles? Aside from the body, Explorer is basically rebuilt now, just needs the gearbox replaced.
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A friend of mine at work has a 93 4wd explorer. A4ld transmission. Reverse quit working, and no matter what gear you put it in, reverse, neutral, or park, it will stay in drive. Park holds itself, but if you give it gas, it tries to pull. He says when it's in reverse, it's almost like it's stuck in reverse and forward, it wants to rock. He pulled the pan, no metal shavings, and pulled the valve body. He said the screws holding the valve body were finger tight. The gasket underneath had a small tear in it, he doesn't know if he did this pulling it out or not. He replaced those gaskets and retorqued the valve body. When he put it in reverse and topped off fluid, reverse worked. He put it in drive and it worked, but when he put it back in reverse, it stayed in drive and is staying in drive in all gear selections again. He bought this explorer new, and the transmission had never been into before.
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Does my 1993 ford explorer sport 4.0 L V6 engine have a camshaft sensor and if so where is it located?
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A friend of mine has a '93 Explorer 4x4 with an automatic. He's getting an intermittent shake at highway speeds. It shows up every 5-10 minutes or so. Apparently the problem has been going on for a few months now. I took it for a test drive the other day, and it feels similar to driving on rumble strips. It shakes in both 2wd and 4wd, but he says it seems worse in 4wd. The vibration feels more like it's coming through the seat than the steering wheel. The vibration will go away if you take the foot off of the accelerator, or if you pull it down into Drive. He's got about 220K miles on it. The previous owner said the transmission was rebuilt about 30K miles ago, but who knows. He's had it in the shop for a couple of days, and they've checked the usual suspects - u-joints, ball joints, and the sort.
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I have a 93 Ford Explorer, manual transmission. About a month ago it intermittently started running very rough. I does this wether the weather is rainy or not. The engine has done this when it just started up, cold, and when it's been fully warmed up. I have been able to drive it, but it has been quite a challenge. When running, there is a very noticeable noxious exhaust smell. The check engine light has come on some of the time. When the eec codes were checked it only revealed 522, the car wasn't in park or neutral when running the test.
I have tried clearing and rerunning this test several times, yet 522 still shows up. No other fault codes. Don't know how this would cause engine to perform so bad. The fuel tank has been near full when it happened so I believe the gas to be good/ no water. The engine has a lot of mileage on it, over 200K, so I'm not sure if something inside could be malfunctioning, but don't know how to check. The car will run for days very smoothly before this happens again. I have changed plugs, wires and the pcv valve and it still occurs. It's like the engine is hitting on one cylinder when it happens.
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1993 ford explorer sport... I got an error code for a low voltage MAF sensor. how would i go about fixing it? Do i need to get a new MAF sensor?
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