Ford - Explorer :: 1991 - Rusty Water In Radiator And Recovery Tank After Sitting For Three Years
May 7, 2013
After sitting on a steep driveway for three years, no starting done all that time,I filled all tanks, started it up, drove it on and off 8 times for 50 miles, air in top radiator tank along with rusty water, dare we flush the system being 280k miles old with 40k on new radiator/ also is there a socklike screen over the fuelpump in the tank that may need cleaning to start quicker than two to three starter attempts?
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My friend's '04 Sebring is still overheating even after these steps have been taken: heads were warped -- had a professional shave them down and rebuild engine; new radiator; new thermostat; then removed thermostat to try this way, and bled the system for air bubbles (more than once).
The car can run about five miles - then bubbling/boiling in the water recovery tank. The mechanic said there is a small crack on the water reservoir (a small plastic box) near where the bolt connects to the engine. Could this crack affect the pressure of the system and cause this overheating?
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So I just got myself an 03 Eddie Bauer 5.4 Expedition.
It's been sitting for at least 2 years and the exterior is in great condition. Other than tires, spark plugs, oil change, antifreeze, and possible tranny fluid change, what else should I look into replacing / fixing?
I bought this vehicle to be used as a daily driver and sit on the weekends, but I'm not sure how neglected it is, I bought if off some close relatives who really never used it. It has 180k miles roughly and like I said, it's been sitting for 2 years.
I've done a fair amount of research on oil/fuel additives like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas, etc. A lot of mixed opinions on it, and it seems to be a case by case kinda thing.
I just want this vehicle to last and run well. I'll do anything recommended to make sure it's running well
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My husband just bought a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4. On the way home from work the recovery tank cap kept popping off. When he got home the radiator was cool to the touch, hoses were warm. He removed the radiator cap and no coolant was showing but the over flow tank was full. I looked in the recovery tank and it looked brown which to me indicates a head or head gasket problem. I checked the oil and it was clean and seemed to be slightly overfilled.
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I bought this truck from a family member 03 7.3, it's been a park not garaged sense 09 when my cousin the original owner died. Was strong running when park. I started it yesterday after changing solenoid, hot battery, and I put some fuel stabilizer and 5 gallons of diesel in it. But I cut it off maybe two minutes after because I didn't want to break anything before I found out what's a few tips of things to do before I put her onda road because this is my first go round buying a diesel truck
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Last week during a hot/long day on the road, my engine temp gauge started fluctuating between 1/2 and almost 7/8 on the gauge. The weird thing was that it was fairly stable most of the time, but every 10 minutes or so, it would heat up, and spend bout 15 seconds at the high mark before dropping down again. It didn't seem to be related to rpm, A/C operation, or driving intensity. When I got home, and let it cool down, I checked the coolant level. I couldn't see any coolant in the radiator, but the expansion tank was nearly full. I guess the low coolant level can explain the symptoms above, but I can't figure out what is happening to the coolant.
I took the car to a mechanic and had a pressure test, which didn't show any leakage. I had a new thermostat and radiator cap installed. They flushed the system, and tested the hose between the expansion tank and radiator. After driving the car home, the coolant in the radiator had already dropped to the point where I couldn't see it, and the expansion tank was 3/4 full. Now, I am planning to keep track of the levels of both reservoirs (and refilling the radiator of course) to see if the fluid is leaking, or if it is just not returning from the expansion tank. Hopefully this bit of knowledge should locate the problem.
The successful pressure test leads me to believe that it isn't leaking externally. However, I'm wondering if there is a small enough leak that wouldn't be detected by the pressure test, but is significant enough that it would allow air in when the engine cools instead of pulling the fluid back from the expansion tank.
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1991 Toyota Celica 2.2 liter standard water is boiling in upper radiator hose what could be the possible cause of this problem I have changed radiator and cap, water pump, radiator hoses and have flushed the system. could crossed hoses from engine to heater control valve and heater core cause this problem?The head has been checked and no exhaust gas was found in radiator fluid ...
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I am new to working on cars. SO i think my water pump went out on my 1991 celica gts, there is a large water leak where the bottom hose from the radiator connects to the what i presume is the water pump or thermostat, need to know if I am on the right track...
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2007, 4.0L, Explorer, 113,000 mi. Week ago noticed coolant expansion tank empty while hot and cold. Looked inside ex. tank and looked like it had not seen any action in a while. Looked inside radiator and coolant level was about 1 inch to 1.5 inches below bottom of rad. cap would be...approx. level with rad. seam, where black plastic top of rad. attaches to metal portion of rad. I filled expan. tank to "cold fill" line. Kept an eye on it while doing light, around town driving. The expan. tank level (cold-fill) didn't change.
Friday, my wife returned from work (30 mi., interstate drive). After being parked for 45 mins, went out to find fluid puddle at very front of car. Expansion tank was empty. Looked in radiator, and it was about one inch to inch and a half below bottom of rad cap...about level with rad seam, where the black plastic top is attached to metal. I topped off the rad. this time, along with filling expan. tank to cold-fill line. Turn car on, and after warming up coolant starting coming out from what appeared to be the seam at the top of the rad., where the black plastic portion meets the metal part of the rad.
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I've an engine (Jasper 383 stroker) I haven't run in years; I was using synthetic oil. For a restart, should I pull the plugs and lube the cylinders--as not to break the rings--or just start the engine.
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The engine oil is being sucked into the cooling system and filling up the coolant recovery tank. It's a peanut butter mess. The radiator is loaded also and I can't what the passages in the block look like. Some say its a head gasket but why would crank case be empty. I would think there would be coolant mixed with oil in the crankcase. I think its a engine porous issue. The vehicle was bought used with 133k miles and a 3 month warranty.
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I have a 1991 F-250 Supercab with the 7.3 L Diesel and twin fuel tanks.Recently the gauge sender for the forward tank stopped working. Ford tells me that the sending unit is obsolete. Perhaps they want me to buy a new truck. I recently found a NOS sender on E-bay but it is supposedly for the plastic fuel tank and mine is the steel tank. What steps would I need to take to make this sender work in my truck? Do I need to eliminate a ground wire, add aground wire, or make up insulators to prevent the sender shorting out on the steel tank?
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Since the end of September 2015 my 1991 Cadillac Deville has been sitting on the driveway untouched. I wanted to drive it again, but before I did I wanted to ask you, members of the forum, if there is anything I should do to the car prior to driving it?
The vehicle has been sitting there untouched for about 7 months and I’m concerned about the gas, potentially the oil. Just prior to it sitting there I had all of the fuel injectors replaced which cost a fortune, so I want to be sure to tackle this issue of bad gas in the best possible way.
A little aside, I know the Cadillac needs a new battery. I would also like to mention the last oil change it had was probably a year ago which I used full synthetic mobile one and I probably put a thousand miles on it since that last oil change. The Cadillac was in full working order prior to having it sit there for almost 7 months.
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I am having an issue with by club wagon. This vehicle has dual tanks. The front tank doesn't work (and never has since I purchased it a couple of years ago....bad fuel pump I am guessing}.
A couple of months ago the fuel pump went out on the rear tank and I had it replaced. I now have a peculiar problem. Fuel is coming out of the front tank fill spout when the engine is running. There seems to be a tremendous amount of pressure building up in the front tank...even though I am not using it.
I would seem as though fuel is being pumped out of the rear tank and into the front tank to a certain pressure point, and then on to the engine. One solution would seem to be to remove the front tank completely from the system, but I don't know how to do that, or if it should be done. After driving and coming to a stop, fuel is pouring out through the gas cap on the front tank. I. Don't need to use the front tank as I am just using this as a work truck.
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1991 Ford Explorer XLT, 4X4, 4.0L push-rod motor, 315,000K
Problem Part 1: Excessive fuel consumption
Codes for O2 sensor, system lean, some black smoke, unburnt fuel smell, some slight hesitation when accelerating from a stop
I replaced the 02 sensor, replaced the IAC, cleaned the MAF, replaced the coil pack, replaced the plugs, replaced the plug wires, replaced fuel filter, replaced air cleaner, replaced the PVC valve changed brand of fuel, checked tires and "brake binding" - NOTHING. Truck ran "fine" other than excessive fuel consumption. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator and before I could get to the parts store we have...
Problem Part 2:
Truck begins to lope along like there is one bad cylinder. It sometimes "fixes" then comes back (all this over a period of 3 days).
Day 4 it's dead - no start.
The motor cranks, the fuel pump "pumps" 3-5 secs KOEO fuel line is clear, return line is clear, filter is clear. There is fuel at the Schrader valve (do not know pressures) and the electrical system seems OK (sparks to all 6cyl). I believe the crank position indicator is OK because the CEL is on KOEO but goes out when cranking. I have no codes because I needed to remove the battery to re-charge. Fuel pump fuse is OK.
Only other information that may (or may not) be relevant is that lately it is slow to heat up. It does not come off "cold" (for the last 4 days). Maybe it's the thermostat or temperature sending unit? Maybe it's because its -30C here. It heats up fine if I block the airflow across the radiator (the old carboard solution).
I have not checked the relay. Where this unit is on the 1991? Don't say fuel pump.
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I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
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Have a 91 Exp 4.0 v6, has a no start problem only in the cold weather. Last year, replaced coil pack, fuel pump, crank censor, this winter...same problem. Just will not start when it is cold. No codes, no ck engine. Checked it today...it has no spark. What could cause this? Fuel filter has also been changed. told him to ck crank position censor connector.
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My 1991 Explorer 4.0 4x4 overdrive not working, so far have checked ohms on sensor at trans and it appears to be ok. Also looking for the pinout of PCM under passenger kick panel to see if voltage is being output to the sensor at trans.
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So today my 97 f150, 2wd 5.4L automatic has started giving me some troubles. The truck has 291k miles on it, i bought it with 260k miles on it. About a week ago the truck overheated due to a busted radiator side tank, it was promptly replaced the next day and i have had no problems with it since, till today. Sometimes when you start it it will stumble alive like its out of gas, give it a sec and it settles down. When you get going, its a little down on power, i know it has 291k miles on it but it pulled hard. Its OK till you get to about 35-40, when it just stops accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it barely went above 40, if you ease into it slowly it will slowly accelerate till about 45, drop down to 40 and then go like normal.
When i changed the radiator i lost about a cup maybe a cup and a half of transmission fluid, i have gotten time to replace it but i didn't think that small amount of fluid would dramatically change performance, the fluid also looked almost new. The only other things i have done to the truck is some brake work and replace the alternator. I have no knowledge of what the previous over did or did not do. It is not throwing any code, and the OD light/button is broken, i think on newer rangers the OD light would would brink indicating transmissions problems, not sure if its the same on these trucks.
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Anyway I have a friend with a Mazda Navaho. 1991, 5spd transmission
It jerks intermittently, and sometimes quite severely. Myself, and 4 other ASE mechanics, and 1 "old ford guru" are stumped. We know we have ruled out the clutch for sure....
We think It started when my friend put a clutch in it. He did not have the flywheel turned . When we looked at it, we were all convinced this was the issue....drive test and dumping the clutch in and out at cruising speeds could replicate the issue. However, he had just bought the truck, and it needed a clutch, however the jerking we think was happening before, but we didn't know as we couldn't drive it till we put the clutch in it.
So we re-did the clutch...had flywheel machined, and got a warranty replacement clutch just in case, and put it back together.
Same issues. so we checked, and tested.
1. Fuel pressure test- passed, no issues
2. Checked fuel regulator for leaks - none
3. Checked for and found no vacuum leaks-none
4. Swept, and actually replaced (3 times) the TPS -is working fine
5. Replaced the MAF - Thought we had it, as we disconnected the MAF and jerking seemed to go away instantly...however few days later jerking returned, and driving with MAF unplugged still jerking.
6. Replaced Ignition Module, checked coils, plugs etc...actually replaced plugs and wires as well
7. Disconnected Transfor case plug to make sure it wasn't the issue as well.
I really don't know what else to check. The motor runs fine, the trans shifts smoothly...the clutch is new and was done correctly. I run a small auto shop, and we have access to Mitchells, All-Data, and Identifix....all were no dice. It seems you try and research jerking and hesitation all the hits come up for Auto trans and Torque converter lockout issues. This truck is a 5 spd .....
I have owned many Aerostars back in the day (loved em, same 4.0) and I have never seen this
The jerking is random and intermittent...symptoms would be similar to a small child flicking a light switch on and off rapidly when it does it. power, no power, power, no power, and rapidly...it feels like someone herky jerking on the clutch but we have ruled that out....its definitely electrical.
Also, and naturally, even though it is Obd I we have checked and there are no pending nor stored codes....PCM thinks everything is hunky dory. No backfiring, no smoke, no misfires....runs like new except this perplexing issue.
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I just got a '91 Explorer. It has no brake lights at all. I've checked all the fuses and everything's fine there.
What's the next thing to look at? I can't say I've seen this problem before.
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