I just got a '91 Explorer. It has no brake lights at all. I've checked all the fuses and everything's fine there.
What's the next thing to look at? I can't say I've seen this problem before.
Which fuse controls the parking and license tag lights in 2002 Ford Explorer??? I can't find it in the wording of the owner's manual diagram.
View 9 RepliesI have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
View 4 Replies1991 740 Wagon 2.3 I4 with turbocharger and an intercooler.
My rear taillamp brake lights do not come on.
Of the 4 red lights on both taillamp cluster, only bottom two red lights stay on when I turn on the head lights. When I step on brake pedal with both headlights on or off, all 4 read lights do not come on.
I only get the middle small red light on. (which probably means the brake light switch on the pedal is fine.) I do have the lamp malfunction warning on when I turn on the headlamp or signal lights on.
I changed the lamp malfunction relay (big red cylinder) but things are the same. Found the bottom right red light had one of its filament broken so replaced the bulb but things are still the same.
I have 1999 ford f250 superduty 5.4 v8 I noticed that my tail lights were not working I replaced the fuse as it was blown break lights worked until i cranked up and applied brakes. I replaced fuse again an checked brake lights they worked fine until i cranked truck and applied the brakes i did notice the wires were hot at brake pedal switch when they worked while not cranked. I replaced the cruise control release switch I was told that may be the problem since cruise didn't work. it fixed the cruise control but as soon as i pressed the brakes fuse blew again.I replaced brake pedal switch didnt fix it.
I then noticed a little smoke under tailgate i looked and the wire coming out of connector was hot while brakes applied and not cranked. i disconnected that wire put a new fuse in and brake lights worked in center light and passenger side without blowing fuse driver side however does not work. Because I disconnected the brake light wire to driver side green wire. When I reconnected the driver side brake light wire fuse blew.
So I have it narrowed down to driver side brake light. here is my problem. I have checked all the wires that i can see for bad or frayed /worn naked places i have found none I can get to the wires beside gas tank running the rail to check but it is doubtful that it is spot as nothing is rubbing along there. Could it be a relay somewhere? can i just run a new wire from brake light? if so where to i connect to? Is there a wiring harness i can just buy and replace the brake light wires from brake light to power source I have ran out of things to check on my own...
So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Jetta Wagon 1.8 t I got pulled over the other day for no brake lights, and I figured it was just a fuse, but I had a look and it isn't that. the middle light thing in the top of the window comes on, so I know the switch works. (is is mechanical on the pedal, or hydraulic pressure?) Both taillights come on, but neither brake light. What's going on here?
View 11 RepliesEvery time I step on the brakes, there is a bright spark in fuse #13. My brake lights, turn signals and hazards don't work. At this point my truck isn't drivable.
According to the owner's manual in my truck, says circuit #13 is for "stop lamps, CHMSL/hazard, trailer tow stop lamp, and speed control."
I'm assuming that the hazard part covers the turn signals as well, but I know the cruise control works even when the fuse is blown. I used it last night on the way home (this was before I realized I didn't have brake lights).
So I know I have a short somewhere. The only mods I've done to the lights are aftermarket headlights, but if the fuse only gets blown when I step on the brakes, I don't see what that would have to do with it. Also, the lights have been installed and working for about a month before this started. The only thing that I did around the same time was install the gauges. I ran the power to them from #5, the customer access circuit.
Are there any other "common" areas for this to happen? I already removed the rear brake lights and it didn't work. I am quickly running out of 20A mini fuses.
First of all, its not a faulty brake light switch. I just found out that my rear brake lights have been out. I went to check the fuse and it was blown. I've replaced it but the second i touch the brake pedal, it pops again. Things I've tried...
I checked the wiring for any exposed wiring and i didn't find anything.
I disconnected the entire light assembly from the connectors on both sides and the fuse still blew.
I'm suspecting a bad ground, (as there was a point when the lights would work, even when i touched the pedal, but as soon as i pop the trunk open, the fuse would blow.
Where the lights are grounded? Is there anything else i should check?
Pics for views....
1999 Mercury Villager Estate. The brake light wouldn't illuminate. Found that the brake light fuse (20A) was blown. Put another in and it blew as I was inserting it. Figure there's a short somewhere, so I've disconnected both brake/tail light units in the back, the towing light connection, and have even completely disconnect the 3 brake light switches under the dash (yes, 3.... 2 directly attached to the brake pedal and one attached to the e-brake). Still, when I insert a 20A fuse (which is what is called for), it immediately blows.
Since I've disconnected the brake light switches, it seems to me the short can't be past that on the way to the back of the vehicle. Maybe I'm wrong though. It seems the short must be either between the switches and the fuse box, or somewhere between the fuse box and the battery. Unsure if the wiring routes through any relays under the hood, but I'd think it would at least have to go through one of the relay boxes since that's what eventually gets directly connected to the battery. I've tried using my multimeter to measure the voltage and resistance on either side of the space where that fuse goes, but I'm unsure what to expect from a reading like that, so those results are inconclusive.
I have a 2003 Accent and I'm having a problem with the brake lights not working. The tail lamps work when the night lights are turned on so it's not a bulb issue. The brake lights keep blowing the fuse. Brake lights will only work with a fresh, new fuse but only works for about a trip, give or take and then its blown.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford f250 Powerstroke and i do not have turn signals, rear running lights, brake lights or reverse lights. i checked the fuses and they seem to be good but i dont want to tear everything out to check the harness if it could be a bad ground. any insight?
View 1 RepliesMy dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
View 1 RepliesIt only does it when it is fairly cold out and when it sits overnight. I will get into my 2000 4.0 Explorer and when I put my foot on the brake my right side turn signal comes on, it doesn't flash it just comes on and stays on. When I let off the brake it goes out. It will do it maybe four or five times and then work fine all day. Its just the right side and the indicator on the dash comes on too. I haven't looked at a wiring diagram yet to see if there is a connection between the two.
View 7 RepliesWe have a 02 Sport Trac that has intermittent brake light problem. All other functions for the bulb filament for the brake lights work! Turn signal and flashers work great. The brake light that is above the rear window works, BUT the brake lights on the rear of the Sport Trac work when they what to.
Right now I can not find a cause that causes them to not work or to work. This morning they worked in the garage but did not work as my wife pulled out of the driveway. Last night they did not work on part of the way home but worked coming into the drive way.
A while back I was jumping and older ladys' car. She happened to put the cables on wrong and it surged most of my dash lights on. Ive had everything checked out and its fine except i probably need the whole sensory module replaced so in the event there is something wrong I will be alerted, n the mean time i need my emissions so i can renew my tags and they will not test with the lights on. Is there any way to temporarily disable the lights? Or a place where I can unplug the fuse? I know this sounds sketch but I cant keep getting fined for tags while trying to save up to fix it so i can get tags, its a horrible cycle.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer with Towing Package. I just recently bought a Trailer and when they tested my 7 pin plug, I was only getting Running lights and 12v Charging. Im not getting Left/Right Blinkers or Brake. There is NO power. I checked all Fuses. The problem is, I cant find the Blinker/Brake fuse. The manufacture book does not show one.
View 5 RepliesI have a 91 celica st and my efi fuse keeps blowing. i would like to know what the efi fuse controls, or what to check first.
View 3 RepliesMy fuse keeps getting blown, mechanically and emotionally. My 91 gmc suburban blows the a/c fuse every time i slide the a/c switch to any position. when the fuse goes my emergency brake light turns on and my speedometer stops working. one weird note, my engine seems to run very smooth after the fuse goes, to the point that im not even sure its running but it is. So my question is, where should i start looking to fix the problem? It's too hot/cold in here!"
View 2 Replies1991 Ford Explorer XLT, 4X4, 4.0L push-rod motor, 315,000K
Problem Part 1: Excessive fuel consumption
Codes for O2 sensor, system lean, some black smoke, unburnt fuel smell, some slight hesitation when accelerating from a stop
I replaced the 02 sensor, replaced the IAC, cleaned the MAF, replaced the coil pack, replaced the plugs, replaced the plug wires, replaced fuel filter, replaced air cleaner, replaced the PVC valve changed brand of fuel, checked tires and "brake binding" - NOTHING. Truck ran "fine" other than excessive fuel consumption. I decided to replace the fuel pressure regulator and before I could get to the parts store we have...
Problem Part 2:
Truck begins to lope along like there is one bad cylinder. It sometimes "fixes" then comes back (all this over a period of 3 days).
Day 4 it's dead - no start.
The motor cranks, the fuel pump "pumps" 3-5 secs KOEO fuel line is clear, return line is clear, filter is clear. There is fuel at the Schrader valve (do not know pressures) and the electrical system seems OK (sparks to all 6cyl). I believe the crank position indicator is OK because the CEL is on KOEO but goes out when cranking. I have no codes because I needed to remove the battery to re-charge. Fuel pump fuse is OK.
Only other information that may (or may not) be relevant is that lately it is slow to heat up. It does not come off "cold" (for the last 4 days). Maybe it's the thermostat or temperature sending unit? Maybe it's because its -30C here. It heats up fine if I block the airflow across the radiator (the old carboard solution).
I have not checked the relay. Where this unit is on the 1991? Don't say fuel pump.
Have a 91 Exp 4.0 v6, has a no start problem only in the cold weather. Last year, replaced coil pack, fuel pump, crank censor, this winter...same problem. Just will not start when it is cold. No codes, no ck engine. Checked it today...it has no spark. What could cause this? Fuel filter has also been changed. told him to ck crank position censor connector.
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