There's a click in my wife's expedition coming from around passenger side 3rd row when the AC is on. When we turn the temp down a little bit the clicking goes away. What this is?
View 3 RepliesI've only started noticing this recently. I have a 2004 W12 with roughly 75k miles. It seems to only happen after the engine warms up, but even then its seemingly randomly. I'll notice a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of the engine. The sound increases in frequency as I rev the engine. I have no check engine lights and no noticeable loss of power. Its not a radiator fan since the sound is still audible when the hood is open. I'm getting no CAN errors with my generic OBDII scanner (I know its not a VAG-COM but hey).
I've been reading up on the possibility of it being a bad valve lifter. I don't know much about them and was hoping to get some advice here before I go about asking my dealership to diagnose the sound. I found this random article through google vaguely talking about replacing the lifter. The person says its "reasonable and inexpensive".
I also stumbled across this thread here describing what sounds similar. Although the thread provides no closure it seems towards the end people are hinting that the engine needs to be pulled? This is contradictory to the first source I found. My question is, say it was a bad lifter, whats the extent of work required to fix it? The Parts seem to be really cheap if I'm looking at the correct stuff?
Having a problem with my 2000 Expedition AWD/4WD. When I'm braking to a stop, there's a metallic clicking coming from my LR wheel. Doesn't matter if brakes are applied or it's rolling free. Starts at about 8 mph and stops at around 2-3. Had a broken parking brake cable, but clicking is still there after replacement. What's next? Wheel speed sensor, perhaps?
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 B5 which my wife drives most of the time - it has just passed the 150k miles and owes me nothing. But it has recently developed an annoying clicking noise coming from the passenger's side somewhere around or behind the glovebox. I have emptied out the glovebox and tried turning off the climatronic and the stereo but cannot locate it.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2012 Hyundai Sonata LTD and have been loving it for the past year (bought it certified pre-owned last February). I've noticed, however, that there is a clicking coming from the passenger-side AC vent or general passenger-side dashboard area. It seems to be somewhat tied to whether I have the air recirculation (outside air) button turned on or not. I typically use my front defrost a lot, which, when enabled, shuts of the air recirculation button. This seems to encourage the clicking sound, whereas if I turn on the air recirculation, the clicking eventually goes away after the car warms up and after ~10 minutes.
From my internet research, it would seem that other types of cars have reported a similar issue and it's been attributed to either a bad actuator or something called recirculation failure. Here's the link to what seems to be a near identical problem for a different make, model, and brand of car [URL] ...
Yesterday night I bought my first Prius--a brand new 2015 C2. All seemed perfectly fine till I was driving home from work this evening. I had the passenger window down and noticed a rhythmic clicking and clattering coming from that side anytime I drove past something to echo it back. This was going at about 25 mph in a residential area. It almost sounded like when you have some gravel stuck in the tire, except no gravel and it sounded more mechanical. It was very noticeable. No sound at all coming from the driver's side open window. I took it back out for a couple more drives to confirm that the sound was continuing.
When I drove it off the lot yesterday it had 40 miles on it--the dealer said someone had likely taken it home to show a family member, then brought it back. I truly don't remember hearing a sound like this when I test drove it, but the conditions were very different (other people in the car, window rolled up). I didn't notice this sound this morning, either.
The thing that is extra concerning to me is that on the way home tonight there was some roadwork where the pavement had been stripped from a section, then a large bump where the regular pavement resumed. I slowed down as much as traffic around me but still hit the bump much harder than I would have liked, especially for my brand new car. It was after that that I first noticed the rattling, a little ways down the road.
The car is making so many new-to-me sounds that I truly have no idea if this is just a normal sound or if I should be concerned. The tires look ok, I don't see anything obviously wrong when I look under the car.
The other day, I changed my front brakes just the pads. Everything came out smooth but then later that day i started to notice a clicking noise coming from the passenger side brake I suppose. You can't hear it when you drive or when braking early but you start to hear it when the car slows down and your coming to a stop. Its a constant clicking noise within like 1 or 2 seconds of each other. Its not loud, but its very noticeable with music off. And not to mention, very annoying.
I'm about to take everything apart and reinstall everything to see whats up. BTW its a 2006 GS300 Front brakes. Finding a picture of the wheel off with rotors and whole brakes on. I think I might of put on a clip wrong.
There is a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of my dash. I have narrowed it down to being a problem with the Air Outlet Servo Sub Assembly. How should I go about correcting this dilemma? If I choose the option to waste another perfectly good weekend on taking apart my only means of transportation (except for my bicycle), how should I go about doing this to avoid creating anymore havic on what seems to be a perfectly good car?
View 3 RepliesVehicle has been in the shop several times within one month( Battery test, replace accelerate idle switch, rear end replace) latest dilemma is with a constant clicking sound coming from under/ near dashboard on passenger side . No interior lights. All this occurs before I turn over the ignition. On some occasions if I enter the vehicle and don't hear the constant clicking sound. Whola, the vehicle starts every time. I disconnect the battery cable when coming in over night. 1997 112,000 miles.
View 12 Replies1.8T... Finding the source of a weird clicking noise I keep hearing. Ever since I changed the motor mounts (although I am not sure if this has anything to do with it) after the engine warms up or after some driving, when the engine is idling I hear a clicking or tapping noise coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. It doesn't seem to tied to the rpm; I can rev the engine a little without the tapping going faster, and when a shift between neutral or park or drive the tapping will briefly slow down almost to a stop before going back to its regular pace. After the revs get above 1500 or so it seems to stop.
View 6 RepliesI've just bought a 1996 celica GT. It has very low mileage and is in great general shape for it's age. There is one thing that annoys me and it's a clicking sound coming from the rear passenger side wheel when going over bumps (I hear it a low speeds as tire noise take over after I guess). I was wondering if I should be looking for different signs when I jack it up? Worn bushings? And is there a way to reproduce the sound. I've read about the rear bushing being a problem on these cars... is it true?
View 5 RepliesI just replaced the drums, shoes and hardware.
Everything went together with out issue but now when I put on the brakes there is a clicking noise coming from the passenger side, kind of like something is hanging up. sounds like one of the springs are loose. But when I took the drum off everything is tight and nothing is out of alignment.
Do drums need a break in period? Wondering if maybe there is a sharp edge and its making the shoe uneven on the drum and causing if to hang up when I put on the brakes.
I replaced my rear brake pads this weekend. I used oem pads and used the shims with CRC lubricant. I also compressed the brake calipers and made room for the new pads. I also tried to take off one of the rotors but it would not come off even with putting screws in the rotor.
Everything seemed fine and brakes were strong but when I went for a test drove there is a clicking sound at low to medium speeds come from the rear passenger side. I checked the retainer pins and they are on correctly.
What the problem may be? I would like to spin the wheel but the parking brake is on. Is it okay to take off the parking brake while jacked up if I block the wheels??
I have a 98 honda civic with greater than 200,000 miles on it. I've only had it for a couple of months now and for the whole time it has driven great. I do need to change the oil and was getting ready to do that this coming weekend but today when i was driving it, it kind of bogged down then was fine. Then it did it again and just died. I then restarted it and it was fine for a few seconds and i was going in reverse, then it did it again and died again. Now it wont start at all. It turns over but just doesnt start. Also there is like a clicking noise that sounds like its coming from the dashboard on the passenger side.
View 10 RepliesMy CEL came on a few weeks ago on my 2010 gti, I scanned it and got a code for evap (P0456). I figured it was from filling the tank while the car was running, so I cleared it and went on with my week. About a week later it came back on and when I scanned it, I got the same thing. I haven't had time to smoke test the system but the last couple days i have heard a clicking/tapping noise coming from the rear passenger side of the car. Could the flapper in the filler neck be malfunctioning or gas cap be leaking.
View 2 RepliesMy wife has been complaining about a noise from her 2005 expo.
As she drove the truck today I have narrowed the noise down to the right side of the half shaft. From looking underneath and comparing what I was seeing and hearing, the track bar is not centered. Its more in on the driver side and out on the passenger side. I had her to stand on the running board and shake the truck.
I can definitely hear a kinda cluck? It sounds like the half shaft going to the tire but at the same time the bushing on the outer tire rod end. I can't determine what it is exactly.
when you rock the truck you can definitely hear it. Its not like violent loud but i'd like to get it taken care of. I looked for some grease points but I don't see none..
2nd question for the grease points that I do see how much do I grease it? how many strokes?
Have water on passenger side floorboard after a heavy rain or car wash. Seems to come from more the dash glovebox area than rocker panel. I'm aware of cleaning sunroof drains, don't think that's it.
I've removed the kick panel, can see drain, it's not too short like other post show. I realize it could be the windshield, but what about the cowl drains?
Now to the clicking noise. I hear it when AC is on recirculate, if I switch to fresh air, it stops. The temp outside or in, seems irrelevant.
I recently bought a 2005 f150 fx4. With about 125000 on it. It started this noise coming from the passenger side. Does it while driving only. It sounds just like the casting noise on a fishing rod. What this could be. Not sure which tire its coming from. Maybe breaks? Doesn't change when breaks are applied though.
View 11 RepliesMy father in law has an 04 EX with the 5.4. It has a weird sound coming from the front passenger side. He listened to the jiffy lube kid who told him it was the brakes. I pulled one side completely apart tonight and the brakes are fine. We took it for a drive so I could hear the noise. It is coming from the passenger side up front. It is intermittent.
Doesn't matter if we hit a bump or pot hole. It sounds like a cat being run over. It will either last for a few seconds or just really quick. I crawled underneath and could not find anything loose. The first time I heard it I thought it was a shock. But the second time it was way too long to be a shock. And they are only a year old.
Secondly, it has a cat, and two mufflers..... Is this normal?
My 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
Having issue with his truck. He bought it 3 months ago and has no history. 166k. You now know as much as I do about the truck! He knows little about automobiles so fact finding has been difficult. I have done all my own work on countless US and foreign automobiles over the last 30 years and never take my vehicles anywhere. I will try to post as much detailed info as I can. I have read tons of posts now on various forums so I am up to speed on VCT and phasers.
This one seems similar, but not exactly the same symptoms which is why I am here. I have already pulled the VCTs and found the passenger side missing the top screen. I swapped them from side to side which made no difference. I checked ohms and they were at 15 which is normal from what I read. They were very clean and moved easily when I took them out so they were not gunked up so I don't think that's the problem. It idles very smoothly and isn't rough at all.
I have posted a video of the knocking/dieseling noise (link below) coming from the passenger side. The knocking starts as soon as the truck is started hot or cold (outside temps right now 70F-90F Houston). I can make the knock disappear by gently depressing the gas pedal going from idle of about 650/700 to maybe 750/800 and it will go away completely as long as I keep it gently depressed. As soon as I lift up it returns.
If I rev it up to 2000-3000 rpm it does not knock, however, as soon as I lift off quickly, it seems to knock at a high speed, hangs for a second and then knocks all the way back to idle. However, if I rev up and then lift off very slowly, it will not knock. I have tried to locate the exact location of the knock, but doesn't exactly seem right at the phaser, but actually back around the 2nd and 3rd spark plug area, but I can't tell exactly. I've had a couple people tell me the same when I asked them to tell me where its coming from. The noise is bouncing around in there so difficult to pinpoint exact area.
[URL] .....
I wanted to get some second opinions on what this could be so I know where to go next.