Having a problem with my 2000 Expedition AWD/4WD. When I'm braking to a stop, there's a metallic clicking coming from my LR wheel. Doesn't matter if brakes are applied or it's rolling free. Starts at about 8 mph and stops at around 2-3. Had a broken parking brake cable, but clicking is still there after replacement. What's next? Wheel speed sensor, perhaps?
View 2 RepliesThere's a click in my wife's expedition coming from around passenger side 3rd row when the AC is on. When we turn the temp down a little bit the clicking goes away. What this is?
View 3 RepliesMy truck has recently developed a metallic clicking from the front left wheel (as best as I can tell). I only hear it at slow speeds and it seems to start during turns. I originally thought it was a rock in the tire because I could only hear it with the windows down. The sound has progressed to something more metallic and I have checked for rocks in tire several times. What it could be?
View 3 RepliesSo fairly recently, I've noticed a metallic-ish click like noise from my back rear driver side wheel. I hear it on occasion when sitting down in my car and the car tilts slightly. I can reproduce the sound when I take my hand and rock the car just a little bit. What that might be? Or if I should be concerned?
View 9 RepliesI have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
I recently put an accidental extra 4 quarts, and I know hear a low thump ie like a piston but the engine runs fine and there is no power loss, just a simple draining off the pain I hope. The engine runs fine just notice this small metallic rhythmic thump on acceleration, and deceleration.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
View 9 RepliesI have a 97 F150 that I just got a few weeks ago. I was driving home Wed. night when the 4x4 low range light would come on and off intermittently I had it in 2h the whole time. I went online and couldn't really find anything on it. So I get up to go to work on Thursday and the truck wouldn't even turn over. The battery was dead. I have put in a new one but now after turning the truck off I hear a clicking sound coming from the steering wheel. What this may be?
View 3 RepliesWas driving to the beach yesterday with the family. About 15 minutes into the trip started hearing a random clicking or tapping noise that sounds like it is right under the dashboard. There are no lights showing up and all the gauges appear normal.
The sound occurs randomly and the car doesn't have to be in gear. The only one we haven't heard the noise is in reverse (but you don't drive in that often. Will attach a video on the noise exactly.
Have replaced BOTH half axles. Clicking sound present when driving - does NOT change when turning right or left. Seems slightly affected by acceleration/deceleration - makes clicking slightly louder/quieter. Clicking is DIRECTLY proportional to speed - slows down until car stops. Transmission works fine, fluid level is correct. New trans fluid and filter. What the heck could this be? Wheel bearings seem solid - jack up car and try to wiggle wheel - solid as a rock both right and left sides. WHAT ELSE COULD THIS BE???
View 4 RepliesI have an '02 Camry with 82,000 miles. I recently noticed a clicking from the front left wheel starting at 68-70 mph. The click varies in frequency with slight bumps in the road. It seems to stop if I touch the brakes, and it might get less if the road turns enough to increase the G force (not too many times on highway going this speed on a curvy road, so I'm not sure.) It never happens under 65 mph.
We recently had local flooding and I drove through about 8 inches of water. The noise was a few days later in dry weather at 80 degrees. It did not occur when the car was starting off cool, but not until I was driving for about 5-10 minutes. The tire and wheel look OK, but it has not been on a lift nor have I been to a mechanic yet. I don't want to get talked into expensive repairs that I don't need, but I don't want to put off something now that is dangerous or will turn into a bigger expense later.
Well I went to go to home depot and the key turned and my theft light started blinking and I hear a clicking noise coming from my fuse panel. By the way this is on a 2000 7.3l 4x4 limited. I found what was clicking (see picture) it is the second relay down, the one with the chipped plastic. My question is is this a relay I can replace or is it part of the fuse box? Where I can get a replacement? This is my daily driver so I need to fix this ASAP.
View 7 RepliesWhat would be causing this clicking sound coming from my front passenger wheel? Wheel bearing? It ONLY clicks when turning left.
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Specifically for a 2006 Expedition 4R75E . What the stall speed of the converter for this truck is supposed to be? The reason I ask is that the converter seems rather loose. At any point during acceleration the converter will allow the engine to rev up to 2500 RPM, depending on how hard I press the gas.
During normal (for me) acceleration the engine will come up to 2000-2200 rpm and just hover there through all 3 gear changes, then when the vehicle is up to speed and I let off the gas, the converter will lock and the rpms will settle down to something less than 2000 (assuming I'm not going over 75mph) if I press it a little harder, the rpms will come up to about 2500 and just hover there through all the gears, then lock when I let off. the only time a gear change will result in a lower rpm is if the engine is spinning over 2700(ish) rpm.
I'm not sure there is a problem, I'm just curious what the stall speed is supposed to be. if it is supposed to be a 2400 rpm converter, then the behavior makes sense, but if it is supposed to stall closer to 2000, then I'm thinking it might not be working as designed. I've tried to find this on my own, but I don't know where to look.
In an attempt to bleed my drivers side caliper today I noticed clicking coming from the #2 relay switch under the dash. The clicking stopped once I pulled out the relay. I continued to bleed my caliper which I've been having issues doing so. It was kinda odd how I was able to bleed the caliper after pulling the relay. Is it possible that the [email protected] system could be causing issues with the pcm? 2000 f 150 4.2 v6 232,000 miles .....
View 9 RepliesMy 2010 Expedition Limited AC seems to be stuck in the highest fan speed setting. Changing the setting on the panel control do nothing to change the speed. But you can adjust the temp and it will respond. It is a dual control unit. When I try to turn the system to off completely it will go to what I believe is the vents and stay on full blast. If I turn the truck off and on again the whole system remains off until I turn it on again. The only way to turn it completely off is to turn it to off mode and turn the truck off.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2000 Suburban 1500 4WD with the Auto 4WD. I'm running into a vibration at highway speeds along with a clicking sound at idle speed which speeds up and slows down with speed. I've discovered the u-joint on the front drive shaft where it connects with the transfer case is worn and has play in it. Could this cause the vibration?
Also, The front drive train spins any time the vehicle is motion, which is to say the front drive shaft spins as the truck goes down the road, correct?
I am getting a light clicking from my rear Axel when coasting at a slow speed. It could be clicking at any speed but my car is to loud to hear it going down the road. I don't have more details than this. What to look for ?
View 15 RepliesI own a 08 VW R32 and having some issues with my car. When I start to drive it I hear this clicking noise coming from the wheel on the right side. What could cause this. Also the other problem I am having is when I push on the gas pedal I am getting this strange hollow noise sort of like to much air is going in to the intake. When I let the foot off the gas it stops but once i push the gas pedal again I am getting that noise again. i can also hear it when I am driving. VW is telling i need a new transmission. how is that possible. i only have 25,000 miles on my car. BTW what does aftermarket coilovers have to do with tranny.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2000 corolla ce with 51k miles I bought recently.
While going to work this morning, I had to hard brake from 50mph. The car slid several feet but came to a safe stop.
Now when I'm driving, my right wheel is clicking....like a light clicking noise. Could hard braking have damaged the wheel bearing or cv joint?
On my 2000 E.B. I have NO A/C at all. All vents on the dash, regardless of vent, floor, defrost, ETC all blow hot air, even with the A/C on Max A/C. Also, all the rear vents for the rear HVC blow WARM air as well. I have no A/C in the back either. I don't hear any flopping around under the dash going down the road and I have checked the A/C compressor with the unit on Max A/C and the clutch appears to be engaged and the compressor appears to be operating normally.
I have NOT YET checked the A/C lines or dryer to see if they get cold, I will check that tonight, but I expect them to be getting cold because the Compressor does not cycle on and off, it stays running pretty much all the time. It clicks off once and again, but not very often at all (such as the case would be if the system was low on freon).
So, if the A/C lines are getting cold (if they are not, I will know my problem is compressor related, likely anyway), what this problem could be? From what I've read, if the Front blows hot, yet the rear blows cold, it's a blend door actuator or broken blend door, but that is not my problem. I have no A/C at all, everything blows hot.