Today my 98 Expedition just started at 50 mph or 3000 rpm with battery light flickering and voltage fluctuation toward high end of 18 volts. Battery is 1 month old. No problems under 45 mph or 2500 rpm.
View 7 Replies1999 Ford E350 Triton V8 ... I'm having an issue with battery voltage, and it only happens once in a while.
Sometimes, while on the highway, my voltage will drop suddenly, the battery light flickers then after a couple seconds... ding! The voltmeter jumps back up to it's normal operating voltage.
It may only happen once, or maybe 3 times in a row, or never. I cannot get it to reproduce.
I had the battery checked, that's fine. I'm doubting the alternator is the issue. What other factors could I consider?
So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.
I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.
I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,
I have a 2000 Ford Excursion XLT 2WD with just over 155,000 miles on it, for awhile now My battery light has been on and off or it'll flicker and some times it will even stay solid. I checked the batteries and the alternator a while ago and got good readings from them. I just thought it was a code that never got reset. Well this morning I was driving it and I noticed that when I brought the RPMs over 3,000 the battery gauge would go up to 18 volts and the battery stayed on until the RPMs went back down past 3,000. It did this all morning until I got home and just for kicks I put it in park and revved the engine up to 3,000 RPMs, when I did nothing happened. I tried looking online for an answer and I called a few mechanic shops who all said it was my alternator. I want to make sure that it is in fact the alternator....
View 13 RepliesOver the past few days the battery light has been flickering and at times staying on. In using the gauge cluster diagnostics, I am getting 12.4 engine off and 13.8 - 14.0 with the engine running.
Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).
Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.
My Battery light came on on my dash and my scangauge 2 was reading 11.5/11.4 volts yesterday afternoon, I ran for codes on my obd-2 and P0528 came up. I picked up one new battery and put that in to see if that would bring my voltage up at all. Today it was reading 11.3/11.2 volts. From what I've gathered the P0528 is most likely the fan clutch or the harness connecting the fan clutch to the PCM.
I've seen the water pump replacement write up that shows how to pull the fan assembly. My questions are - can the fan clutch be replaced without draining/pull the radiator? or is it better off to just do the coolant flush and pull the radiator. And would the fan clutch/harness issue drop the voltage or would that just be two bad batteries?
Bit of a confusing one as of late. Doesn't happen every time I drive, maybe 50% of the time. When I start the truck up, torque pro reads voltage at 13.9-14.1 consistent. After 30 minutes it usually drops to around 13.7/13.8. Sometimes, battery light comes on, voltage doesn't drop. I can drive the truck, park it, turn it off, restart, no side effects.
I notice if I stop, turn off the truck, and restart it, torq pro will begin to read a voltage of 12.8.13.0. Sometimes it won't budge for an hour, sometimes it climbs right back up to 13.8, sometimes the battery light goes off, sometimes it stays on.
Alternator was replaced a month ago, both batteries replaced a week ago, all terminals cleaned and secured at the time of replacement. Truck behaves perfectly normal, I'm almost at the point of putting a piece of tape over the light and ignoring it, but was curious before I go that route.
Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
I have a 96' ranger that has been missing quite regularly. The vehicle has over 200,000 miles on it, but has been taken care of regularly by me since 75,000.
Problem: When I start the vehicle, the engine takes a little bit to find the idle. It spits and fumbles around some until it finds a somewhat rough idle. Often, when I first start driving in the morning, the vehicle really jumps around due to misfiring. Even after running smoothly for awhile, the vehicle with sporadically misfire with no rhyme or reason. This is particularly true when climbing a grade. When sitting at a red light and idleing in gear, you can definitely feel the truck shaking from side to side. Also, when idling in gear, the battery gauge on the dash fluctuates, but when the vehicle is in park the battery gauge doesn't fluctuate...it just idles a little rough.
I had the Ranger to a garage and had them check the battery and alternator connections and ground to try and figure out what is making the battery gauge fluctuate...alternator and battery checked out...no diagnosis for fluctuation.
I replaced all plugs and wires and also checked the coil pack. One of the coils (#6) had some build-up in the top. I cleaned it out and replaced all the plug wires and everything snapped in place and fit fine.
The garage did tell me that an error code came up with the EGR valve and or sensor. They didn't seem to concerned about it. Do the EGR valve could be the cause of all the stuttering and misfiring going on with the ranger? I really don't know where else to look. Maybe replace the coil pack?
i have a 2007 toyota camry LE, around 55,000 miles I wanted to install LED's under the dash on both driver and passenger sides using a tap-a-fuse adapter.. I tried tapping a fuse using the CIG lighter on the engine compartment.. it didn't work.. but i noticed after i failed the battery light came on.. then I checked all the fuses.. they were all fine. I got it checked by one mechanic he said its an alternator issue.. i now have 78,000 miles on the car and had no issues with the battery, start ups, or anything. I did however get a battery test and i was a little low on voltage but till this day i still have the battery light on but my car runs perfectly fine. Can it be a code issue?
View 5 RepliesSo, I have have an intermittent flickering of the battery light. The weird part is that it ONLY happens between 80 and 85 mph. Any faster or slower and it doesn't happen. It's not a steady flickering, but a random intermittent flicker. What the issue may be? The car has a new (within 2000 miles) battery and alternator. 1.8t with manual transmission.
View 3 Replies195K, B5, 1999, AEB. The battery light on the dash is flickering...mostly off, but the light (battery symbol) lights up ever-so lightly...then off, then on...on for about half of a 45 minute drive last night. Voltage regulator? Alternator? The battery seems fine, as it turns over after a cold night...
View 6 RepliesMKIV R
28xxx miles
So here's the deal. I first purchased the car about 2 months ago. Aside from preventative maint (plugs, coils, new fluids, oil, filters, etc.) no problems with the car whatsoever. However, I noticed at night with the lights on, the instrument cluster and every now and then the lights will "flicker". Not knowing when the original owner replaced the battery, if ever (it was an OEM battery so I wasn't positive), I figured maybe its a sign the battery was going.
So I replaced with an OEM VW battery a couple weeks ago (less than 1000 miles on it) and it appeared the problem was corrected. The instrument panel and even headlights, seemed brighter too and no flickering! Then last night, I noticed it was happening again. There is no problem with the car, except for the flickering, and I'm wondering if its not the battery, is it the alternator? What are some other problems I might expect to see if it was? Do I just get a voltmeter and test? Is there an electrical wiring issue somewhere?
Not sure if it matters but I did do a search and noticed some people have had problems after a rain storm. Im in NC and it rains almost every day or every other day, most of which I'm not driving the car but it sits outside. It did rain the other day when I noticed it happening (not while driving just prior to me driving). ALso, no CEL or Alternator Workshop.
The brief information:
1. Stuck/non moving in traffic on the freeway for roughly 1 1/2. During that time the AC was running, but once I noticed my "battery light" on the dash turn on, I turned everything off.
2. Since then while on my way home from work the voltage meter only showed barely 12 volts at full throttle.
3. I charged my battteries, and started it up today to go into work. While going to work the voltage meter showed 14 at its high point, but shortly there after it dropped back down to 12. At which time the battery light came back on.
New battery or alternator?
Just put a side post battery with top post adapters on. I drive to town the battery light was flickering with every little bump finally it turned off. Got to the house car shut off tried to turn it on and nothing no click nothing. The dash lit up half way the radio flickered on and off constantly and and the ebrake light flashed with a beep. I'm at wits end. Just bought a tire and battery and filled the tank and now this happens. 2000 jetta 2.0 GL.....
View 1 Replies2009 3.3 GLS ... Yesterday my wife told me that the battery light in her Sonata was flickering for just a fraction of a second at a time at irregular intervals. Nothing else was an issue so we didn't think much of it, started fine, no other lights.
She just called me to tell me that on her way into work it started very hard, all the lights on the dash were flashing, the engine was stumbling and wanting to quit, and the radio is no longer working.
It will be several hours until I can get to it to check it out, but my first thought is to check the grounds. I haven't worked on this vehicle in the past so exactly where to look first or any other issues I should look for...
2003 - Just recently my battery light started coming on and off on the dash, and occasionally my headlights would turn off and come back on. Now the ABS and BRAKE lights flash and the headlights are still on and off. I have already scraped (not cleaned) most of the corrosion off of the terminals on the battery and tightened the connections...
View 3 Replies1995 Cadillac DeVille 4.9 L Check engine soon light comes on, battery voltage high. When I increase speed the head lamps get brighter when I decrease speed the head lamps get dimmer. I changed the alternator because that's what a mechanic said I needed but I still have the problen battery voltage high. Will this damage the battery or other components? Should I stop driving the car.
View 5 RepliesNot sure if it's transmission issues, on the road it took me to a neighbor city with no issues, but on my way back, while running it went from 70mph to 57-60mph and it won't let me go faster, it will not rev up more than 2000rpms, if i step further on the gas it will struggle to rev up, it will, but speed won't go faster, engine just had been rebuilt, it has no catalytic converters. I live in mexico, instead it has 2 "silencers" which were just installed as well since it was making a lot of noise through the exhaust.
Been driving it in the city, (no more than 35mph) with no problems at all, all gears feel great, but haven't tried to go up to 60mph again. Expedition XLT 1998 4x4 ....
When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
View 9 RepliesMy 98 expedition 5.4 starts fine the time but after it warms up it just cranks and cranks tell it finally starts.what might be the issue?
View 1 Replies