Ford - Expedition :: 1997 - Misfiring / Stumbling While Sitting At A Stop Light
Mar 15, 2015
1997 expedition 4.6 .... Figured its the same motor. I bought it for cheap with a bad miss fire not sure what cylinders just did a tune up. I forget but I think they were motorcraft spark plugs I put in. But after that it ran grate so I thought. It would be intermiten but would all of a sudden while accelerating get a boost of power. That would last untell its next shift point and would always happen around 2-2500 rpm. Kinda like VTEC in a honda. Or it gained 2 cylinders. And would also start stumbling while sitting at a stop light for two long with it in gear and break on only after its warm. Never happens when cold. I hooked up tourqe and saw when it does it its misfiring on 5-6-7-8 randomly. Its missing on cylinder 4 all the time now which I believe is a plug, wire, or water-antifreez in plug hole.
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My '05 F250 (5.4) started misfiring and threw codes for p0300, p0305, p0307, p0308,and p2198. I used an inline spark checker to check cops, which all had spark. Replaced 5, 6, 7, and 8 plugs and cleared codes. Ran truck for a few minutes and codes came back. Switched #5 and #6 cops and cleared codes. 5,7,and 8 cylinders still misfiring (same codes). Truck only has 36,000 miles and spent alot of time just sitting. Plugs were original plugs.
Replaced 5-8 with Autolite OEM replacements. I haven't checked cops for resistance yet. Weather was pretty cold when problem started. Threw in about 10oz. of Lucas to no avail. I had this problem last winter with the same cylinders throwing codes. Threw some Lucas in the tank and idled truck for approx. 1/2 hour and problem went away except for stumbling most every time truck came to a stop. I'm starting to wonder if it's a coil or a fuel issue.
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08 Expedition... I drive an automatic and I frequently shift to neutral during down or cruise to a stop light. Does this affect the gear assembly, brakes, etc.
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So I just got myself an 03 Eddie Bauer 5.4 Expedition.
It's been sitting for at least 2 years and the exterior is in great condition. Other than tires, spark plugs, oil change, antifreeze, and possible tranny fluid change, what else should I look into replacing / fixing?
I bought this vehicle to be used as a daily driver and sit on the weekends, but I'm not sure how neglected it is, I bought if off some close relatives who really never used it. It has 180k miles roughly and like I said, it's been sitting for 2 years.
I've done a fair amount of research on oil/fuel additives like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas, etc. A lot of mixed opinions on it, and it seems to be a case by case kinda thing.
I just want this vehicle to last and run well. I'll do anything recommended to make sure it's running well
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I'm chasing a SES light on my mothers expedition. It had bank 1/2 lean and the 4 o2 sensor codes. So I put a fuel pressure gauge on it. At idle it fluctuated between 31-35 (rose and fell with a rough idle) as engine rise/falls. Rev it up to 15-1700 an pressure falls to 29-30, unplug the regulator and it pegs at 40 no matter idle-2000 rpm... does those numbers sound right?
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Or more like "chug...chug...chug...chug" or "whah...whah...whah...whah". My Twarg now makes little throbbing motions (not noise) like this when sitting at a stop light. More the kind of motion you would expect from a diesel truck or a 1-cylinder lawnmower at very low throttle. Maybe I am going insane, but I swear that it didn't use to do this until a recent service. I thought maybe I had bad gas, but after several fillings, it still does this. Very subtle but still annoying. I want Smooth.
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I noticed this past weekend that when I stopped at a stop light for a long period of time, the engine would misfire for a split second, random, just miss for a moment, then do the same after 15 or so, sometimes less. Other times, no issue.
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I bought this truck for work and all of a sudden it will rev real high when I press the clutch in to switch gears or when sitting at a light. I stopped at a parking lot and popped the hood and tried to pull the throttle back by hand but it will not go. There is a lil slack in the throttle cable but when the truck is off and I manually pull the throttle back it returns normally.
I was wondering if the little black electronic box opposite where the throttle hooks to the throttle body is making it rev so high? I really don't know a lot about these newer trucks as I have driving older trucks my whole life so probably using wrong terms...
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I have an 03 vw Jetta 1.8t with around 100,000 miles and I recently ran into a problem with the car jolting, or slipping when I get on it hard. And also when I'm sitting at a stop light it will jerk forward like it wants to go. I've tried a few things like cv axels and some other things but I'm just hoping it's not the tranny.
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Over the past week, my engine has stalled numerous times while sitting at a stop light. I simply turn the key and restart the engine and go on my way... until it happens again. FYI - engine is idling between 500 and 600 rpm. I don't know if it's significant or just normal, but when the engine stalls, the red "battery" icon comes on, but goes away as soon as I restart.
In the past few days, I've also noticed my windshield wipers have been very slow, regardless of what position I put the stalk in. Today, there were no engine stalling incidents. However, this morning the wipers were extremely slow when I tested them. Then, this afternoon, everything worked fine! The engine continued to run fine all day and my wipers seem to be back to normal speed!
Does this sound like typical "low left side battery" gremlins, or perhaps the right side "starter" battery? Is it just coincidence that these two symptoms showed up at the same time and are not related? By the way, I believe the left side battery was replaced by the previous owner a year or two ago.
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Getting a misfire at part throttle. Whether the car is in gear or sitting. At idle there is no misfire, and at WOT there is no misfire. But if you hold the throttle part way (like when trying to cruise) you immediately see the misfire count go through the roof on vag-com. this can be duplicated in the garage by holding the idle to 1500-2k with no load on the motor.
4 codes, which come back immediately at part throttle as described above.
multiple cylinder misfires
cylinder 1 misfire
cylinder 2 ""
cylinder 3 ""
tried moving plugs and coils with no change, problem stayed on first 3 cylinders
checked t-body readings and appears to be aligned ok
checked maf readings and appear to be ok
found one questionable vacuum line and replaced it, no change.
checked vag-com fuel trims and they showed -4.7% which appears to be with in the acceptable 5% range
watching lamda on both front O2 sensors and they seem to be following the same trend.
When I look at measuring blocks 26/27 it shows me knock sensor signal on all six cylinders, and 1-3 are much lower than 4-6. This is the only discrepancy I have located, and not sure if it is the cause or an effect of the problem. I checked the knock sensor (located below exhaust manifold on passenger side) and the sensor and wiring appear good. I checked resistance best I could and it appears in spec (infinite resistance) but the pins are so small and the spec is so vague I am not 100% on the results.
I have vag-com and a full shop access, but no R32 specific bentley unfortunately. I only have the older (up to 2002 I think) MK4 manual but that only covers the 12v. Looking for the wiring diagrams for the coils or knock sensor harness'...
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Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug. I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
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Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
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The vehicle has 160,000 miles and had been running great. I pulled into traffic, put the petal to the floor, and it started stumbling and shaking. I pulled into the parking lot where I was going and expected it to die but it maintained idle but shaking real good. When I started it back up the SES light came on. I was able to coax it home but there was no acceleration, wouldn't go over 40 mph, and was still shaking bad.
I used my code reader and got the code P0340, camshaft position sensor. I replaced the sensor but it is still doing the same thing and still showing the code. It will start if I push the gas while cranking but it won't rev over 2K. I am thinking it jumped timing but most of the threads I read say they have never seen this on these engines. I want to get some opinions before I start removing the timing chain cover.
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Vehicle 97 Expy, 5.4 XLT 2x4, air leveling and tow pkg.
Situation: installed TransGo SK E40D spring kit to cure 1st to 2nd hard shift. It did the trick and shifts great up to a point.
Issue: Now after replacing the springs, any and I mean any added load (mild incline, lane change) while in OD it will downshift, won't shift up unless going down hill and I'm sucking gas. 1st-3rd is great, but it will not stay in OD to save its life.
I believe the cure is to reinstall the old OD springs, but I don't know which set that is in the accumulator body? I also could be wrong and it may be something else.
Update: found the instructions, need to know if the 4th Accumulator piston is OD?
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My power locks stopped working completely (remote or switch, lock or unlock.) I didn't have any problems with them until 2 days ago, after work it wouldn't unlock.
The fuse is good (#3 under hood fuse box), I can't find the relays, but since there are 3 of them I don't think they are the problem. I have power at the fuse and 2 wires going to the PDL switch, I also have ground to 2 wires going to the PDL switch. It's probably as simple as a broken wire or corroded connector, but I'd rather not pull the whole dash if I don't have to, but I need to fix it so I can open the rear hatch which is locked and its lock cylinder is gummed up so I can't use the key.
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I have a '97 Toyota Tacoma, two-wheel drive. It has 154,000 miles on it. During the last three weeks, there's been a hesitation/ stumbling sensation happening occasionally in the first three gears. It doesn't happen in 4th or on the freeway. At first, I thought it felt more like a "slipping", like a clutch going bad (since I still have the original clutch).
I had my mechanic check it out, and it's fine. Here's a brief history of recent work done. Three months ago: injectors removed and cleaned out on a special machine. I replaced the cap & rotor and spark plugs. The wires were replaced last year. I replaced the fuel filter and PCV valve. I cleaned out and replenished my K&N air filter. Last week, I checked the connections where the spark plug wires connect to the cap. They seem fine.
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So i have a 2000 ford ranger 2wd 4cyl .190k miles. My issue is the motor has a very rough/shaking idle,abs light on,and check engine light on.it also continues to blow fuses to the tail lights and dash, haha
Ive had it since it was at 40k and has been a great truck,although lately i have really neglected it.ive changed the spark plugs and new wires new timing chain. I would d love to start trouble shooting some of this stuff this weekend if the weather holds up.
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I have a ford f250 1997 with a 5. 4 triton engine in I bought a 02. 5.4. Out if a ford expedition he said it would fit but my mechanic is not sure . Would the engine out if the 02 fit in the 1997 and what would need to be done.
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So the last couple times I got a car wash the truck started running real rough, sometimes dies, then runs fine after a few minutes. Well, the last car wash I got it did it again, but the issue didn't go away. I checked the injector plugs, cleaned and greased, no change. Validated the bowl is filling with fuel, changed fuel filter, no luck.
Sometimes it will start and idle fine, rev in neutral fine, if you come off throttle abruptly it will fall below normal idle and start stumbling with an SES light and eventually die.
I managed to get it idling good, started logging with TPro (attached) and it was throwing codes P0475 - Exhaust Pressure Control Valve, and P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, as well as P1211, p1249, p1316 listed as 'multiple descriptions'.
I'm assuming this is an electrical issue since it happened after washing the truck, just not sure what sensor would cause all this?
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I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
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