I have a v10 F250 and I just put on a single chamber flowmaster that sounds really good but I would like the truck to be louder. My question is are there any negative effects on the truck if i get rid of the cat and run a straight pipe?
View 11 Repliesi have my 4 inch exhaust pipe cut just behind the rear of the cab right now with no muffler. If i cut it further up maybe jsut under the front seat or so what would this to the sound? would it make it deeper or louder?
View 7 Repliesi've got an 05 f250 SD 5.4 v8. i had a bad manifold and decided to get headers. i figured i would get the most performance of of them if i did high flow cats too. oh and i also already have an exhaust on it. the only cats i can find for it are universal fit. my question is how would i be able to get the cats off of the factory pipes without damaging the pipes or original cats? plus the pipe with the flange end is a really small piece. would i be able to get it off just by heating it up?
View 1 Replies2001 F250 5.4L - I recently had my muffler changed and the pipe flange on the tailpipe up by the exhaust manifold welded back on. I haven't driven my truck much this past summer so when I took it in to get the muffler fixed the front caliper got temporarily stuck like it tends to do. It eventually freed up but in the meantime I noticed a hot oil-like smell coming from my truck from time to time. I chalked it up to either the new muffler or maybe it just smelled hot and it was instead the front brake caliper still being stuck. One day I'm driving down the interstate and I start uphill. I noticed smoke behind me and pulled over. The brake was not overheating so I got underneath the truck.
The smoke was rolling off of the exhaust pipe all the way down it all the way up near the manifold but mostly around the muffler. The smoke quickly went away while I was under the truck. I noticed it doing this only while the engine is under a load like going uphill. Just driving around town nothing is noticeable. When it does smoke I lose power. Once I slow down for awhile and then gradually speed back up things seem okay. I checked the oil.
Normally I don't lose a drop but this time I was a quart low but the oil on the stick was clean. It's been awhile since I had my oil changed but very little mileage on this change (my truck has sat awhile). My truck doesn't leave a drop of oil under it when it sits. From what I read you can remove the radiator cap and start the truck to see if it's a blown head gasket. At least that one of the things I can check easily without actually taking the plugs out even though the oil looks clean. The radiator has not lost any fluid. The transmission fluid is also good. It's been doing this for about 3 weeks.
I still drive it to and from work (about 15 miles round trip) everyday but I take it easy on the acceleration and stay on city streets. I looked into the EGR system online for my truck and instead found an EVAP purge solenoid/valve in its place on the passenger side. I don't have any service lights on the dash. I went to Autozone and had them scan it but nothing came up. I read somewhere that either the purge solenoid assembly or EGR (I can't remember) can burn up the board if it goes bad resulting in no code showing up.
I recently changed a vacuum valve out that went bad that controlled the vacuum chamber used to operate the hubs on the 4WD. The 4WD is now operational again. Assuming the head gasket is not blown, what to check for next?
I have been thinking about toying with my exhaust. I don't have a crazy amount of money. I got a 94 F250 with the 5.8 liter 351. Heres what I was thinking. Get rid of everything after the cat, and then run a single 3 inch pipe from the cat to a flowmaster 40 series, and then exit either right before the back tire or right after it.
View 7 Replies I have a 4 inch MBRP turbo back straight pipe and I hear a lot of other 6.0 that sound much louder.
just curious as to why that may be?
I have a 93 ford taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. The exhaust clamp between the resonator and exhaust pipe came off and I need to know what size clamp I will need to replace it. I think it is a 2 inch but I am not sure.
View 1 RepliesActually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
View 2 RepliesI have a B6 passat --- left the cat alone which comes off the turbo but cut out the "mid muffler" or scrubber right before the sensor and prior to the mufflers.
Noticed no turbo lag --- car seems fast and much smoother across the power band BUT doesn't give me that kick anymore. Must I flash the computer as well?
My engineering friend said that since the air flow is now faster than the engine runs hotter and ill prob stress the engine and burn out my cat much quicker... comments!?
Also do I need to put in a diverter pipe to satisfy the sensor --- so far no check engine but I dread the day...
I have a 96 f250 7.3 I just cut the cat and muffler, and developed a drone @ 1900 rpms. if I shift out of OD it goes away if I get to that rpm in OD it drones. What would be my best plan of attack to get rid of the drone? Hollow out the cat and re install?
View 1 Replies2014 F250 Diesel... I got the msg saying 50 miles until speed limited to 50 mph. None of the earlier warnings re adding def. check def on computer and it said it was ok. I even added def and it only took a small amount until it overflowed. It was more than 1/2 full. The error message did not reset. I drove it around for several miles and it still would not reset. Having it services as we speak, and the tech is still having difficulty running down the cause. He has done a regen,and reset the computer and etc and still has not resolved the issue..
View 14 RepliesI bought my 2015 F250 last November, and this spring my check engine light comes on with the message exhaust system fluid fault with the anoyying speed limitation. Bring the truck back to the dealer and they just say add def fluid, so I just have them do it. 2 weeks later the message comes back, bring it back to the dealer and they tell me it "needs reprograming" they do the work, light goes off. two weeks later light comes on again. Dealer puts in new exhaust sensors and reprograms the truck.
This fix lasts a few months in the mean time the truck shutters really bad under regeneration mode. Talk to dealer they claim its normal. Finally this week the light comes back on again. Bring the truck to the dealer and Ford keeps telling them that it only needs reprograming but that doesn't fix the problem. The dealer wants to replace the computer but ford isn't letting them do it (the truck is still under warranty) . I am starting to get pretty mad when I went out and bout a 65k truck not to have these problems.
I have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
View 10 RepliesWant to install exhaust system on my 06 F350.Tell me,what is the best brand for my truck,I know, very good intake system is from K&N,what about exhaust?
View 10 RepliesThe exhaust system from the downpipe back was stolen off this auction truck I bought, so I bought an even worse truck for parts but I'm struggling to get the exhaust off. Is there a trick to it? Does it come out going forward over the rear axle or pull out from the back? Should I just cut it and have a shop weld it back?
View 8 RepliesOver the weekend I replaced the passenger side up pipe with one that doesn't have a spot for the EGR cooler. After putting the turbo back in it has a pretty bad exhaust leak. Sounds like it is on the drivers side somewhere near the Y pipe. When replacing the passenger up pipe I didn't loosen any manifold bolts or anything and I am thinking that the Y pipe is out of alignment with the turbo. What is the proper procedure to loosen everything up and get it aligned on the turbo? My guess is remove turbo, loosen drivers side manifold, loosen passenger side manifold, loosen passenger up pipe and tighten it again now that everything isn't under tension, install turbo and clamp to Y pipe, tighten manifolds. Is that the right idea?
View 8 RepliesI tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
View 7 RepliesI have a 90 bronco with a efi 351w and im missing one nut for the manifold to exhaust pipe flange. I have looked all over the net and can't find the size I know its a 1/2in socket but I need the thread pitch and size, had the parts guy try to sell me the stud and nut kit seem really expensive for just a nut and to install the full kit I have to pull skid plates and the trany supports just to start to get room to do the job, seems like a lot of work to replace 1 nut...
View 1 RepliesI just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
View 2 RepliesMy F150 exhaust seems rather quiet when I first start it up, but after it gets warmed up good, the exhaust is much louder (which I like). I started wondering if I had a crack up front that widened out when it got hot, so looked under it when I got home today with it hot and still idling, but didn't see any cracks. Also I did not hear any noise like a leak. All sound was coming from the side exit pipe. So... what is the phenomenon that would cause this?
View 5 RepliesLong story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
View 5 Replies