Ford Exhaust System :: 351w Exhaust Collector Stud Nut Size
Apr 16, 2017
I have a 90 bronco with a efi 351w and im missing one nut for the manifold to exhaust pipe flange. I have looked all over the net and can't find the size I know its a 1/2in socket but I need the thread pitch and size, had the parts guy try to sell me the stud and nut kit seem really expensive for just a nut and to install the full kit I have to pull skid plates and the trany supports just to start to get room to do the job, seems like a lot of work to replace 1 nut...
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I currently own a 2009 F-150 XLT, ext. cab, 4X4, 4.6l, 6R80 trans. Surprise, Surprise I have just developed an exhaust leak at the manifold collector. After some careful investigation, I separated the pipe from the manifold and the sealing surface is totally rotted away. I cleaned it up as best as I could and slathered some muffler cement inside the joint to seal the leak. It is about 80% better but will get worse again I'm sure.
I visited my local Ford dealer and talked to a friend I have working there and he said Ford has known about quality issues with manifolds for years and he was surprised that the manifolds lasted 70k miles.
I am hoping to use the truck as is through the winter and in the spring I am going to install these headers:JBA Headers - Reviews on JBA Cat4ward Exhaust Headers - Stainless, Ceramic & Chrome Finishes
This intake:K&N 63 Series AirCharger High Flow Cold Air Intake Kits Best Price & Reviews
This tuner:Bully Dog Triple Dog GT Tuner (49-State Legal) - Bully Dog GT Tuner Reviews on Gas Programs for Dodge, Chevy, Ford & Nissan Trucks
I already installed a Flowmaster American thunder catback exhaust system about a year ago...
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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I just purchased a 2003 V10 with 270 000kms. The truck had had regular maintenance. It has an exhaust leak and runs a little bit rough. Could the exhaust leak cause the truck to run a little rough or am I dealing with another issue?
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My F150 exhaust seems rather quiet when I first start it up, but after it gets warmed up good, the exhaust is much louder (which I like). I started wondering if I had a crack up front that widened out when it got hot, so looked under it when I got home today with it hot and still idling, but didn't see any cracks. Also I did not hear any noise like a leak. All sound was coming from the side exit pipe. So... what is the phenomenon that would cause this?
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Long story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
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Want to install exhaust system on my 06 F350.Tell me,what is the best brand for my truck,I know, very good intake system is from K&N,what about exhaust?
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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Leaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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My truck just started running really loud when it's cold and the leak goes away when it warms up to operating temperature.I did a little bit of investigating and I have found where the leak is coming from at the end of the exhaust manifold where the donut gasket meets the catalytic converters. It appears that the bolts rotted that hold the system together at the gasket. What should I do to repair this? I don't really want to replace the whole manifold because I know I'll break a stud off in the engine because everything is pretty rusty down there. I even took some pictures of the problem....
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I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
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I have been thinking about toying with my exhaust. I don't have a crazy amount of money. I got a 94 F250 with the 5.8 liter 351. Heres what I was thinking. Get rid of everything after the cat, and then run a single 3 inch pipe from the cat to a flowmaster 40 series, and then exit either right before the back tire or right after it.
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i have my 4 inch exhaust pipe cut just behind the rear of the cab right now with no muffler. If i cut it further up maybe jsut under the front seat or so what would this to the sound? would it make it deeper or louder?
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Why it won't work. copper exhaust coming off the headers. I have the ability to get it and bend it and how cool would that be copper duals. Why won't it work. If I bolt it right to the headers.
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I own a 2005 F350 Diesel and I want to remove my stock exhaust and run a side exhaust with no muffler. Has any Diesel owners out there run a side exhaust system?
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Is it possible to do so with out engine problems later? I would love to go with duals front to rear 3in pipe and tips. Any do's or dont's?
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Just put on a 4" MBRP turbo back system. What torgue should I tighten the clamp bolts?
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2000 excursion, 4X4, V10
A few days after the job was completed I noticed that the top stud on the driver's side closest to the firewall has signs of oil leaking from inside the hole. This is a hole that I had to drill and insert an 8mm Heli-coil. I was very careful on the depth of the hole I drilled. I tried removing the bolt and placing JB Weld high temperature epoxy into the hole and reinstalled the bolt. I waited over 24 hours for the epoxy to cure and then I checked for leaks. The leak re-appeared but has slowed down quite a bit. I have a USB endoscope that I will be using to inspect the inside of the hole to see if I can see where the leak is actually coming from. I am in no position to replace the head but I will do whatever it takes to get the truck back into service.
After 7 days in my garage, I finally removed/replaced all 20 manifold studs. I had to cut off all of the nuts to remove the manifolds. I was able to remove 17 out of 20 studs by using a 6 inch pipe wrench and a lot of coaxing. 3 of the studs were already snapped off inside the head. I drilled out two and was able to get them tapped for a Heli-coil. The third stud I broke a 1/8" cobalt drill bit inside and it took 4 days to get enough of the hole drilled out to get a Heli-coil inserted.
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I am thinking about changing out the whole exhaust system heads all the way back to replace my annoying glasspack setup that came with the truck when i bought it. its a 95 f150 5.0L im thinking about getting hooker headers [URL] .....
And that's as far a i got because i want duel outs but don't know what kind of cat i need and what kind of muffler. and even more which brand of muffler because i want a really deep tone but not extreme loud. How to put this exhaust system together?
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.What would happen if I had a muffler shop turn my stock exhaust into a true dual exhaust system with 2 magnaflow mufflers on my 6.9L N/A diesel?
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