Ford Exhaust :: Secondary Air Injection Removal With Header Install
Oct 12, 2009
Finally getting to my header and exhaust install.
I plan on removing the secondary air injection as I have no provision for it. Will this throw a CEL?
Looks like it goes into a rubber hose and comes around to the top of the intake manifold.
What is the best/cleanest way to cap this off?
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My 97 E350/460ci occasionally sets trouble code 4011. It clears every time I check it with my code reader. Something about insufficient secondary air injection. The dealer ship couldn't duplicate/diagnose the problem. Maybe something with the air injection solenoids.
Otherwise, it runs fine. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine compartment a large black metal filter looking thingie with about a 3/4" outlet that doesn't have any hose on it or seem to go anywhere else. Once in a while when you start it i hear a sort of soft popping noise for a few seconds that I would associate with the air pump.
Also can't get the ABS light to go away. It's out when you start it but as soon as you get going it comes on. I flushed the fluid and replaced the rear sensor to no avail. Also tried to flush out the front tone wheels and sensors.
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Where the secondary air injection pump is? I'm getting P1411 & P1423 codes.
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I have a beautiful 1996 Saab, 900s. Recently the check engine light came on and at Autozone they said the code was for the secondary air injection pump. I took it to a new mechanic, he checked it out and called me to say the pump itself was broken and would cost 1,000 to fix. I said that was a lot, and would think about it, and picked up my car.
Strangest thing- the check engine light is now off! Is this normal? And I just took the car in for the state inspection, it passed! I was under the impression a car without a working secondary air injection pump can't pass emissions. What is going on here??
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My 2006 W12 has been trouble free since taking delivery over a year and a half and 30K miles ago. Just broke 60K total miles over the weekend and the engine light came on. I have pasted the scan below. I cleared the codes and drove about 500 miles before the MIL reappeared. I have read this thread: [URL] ....
My first question is: Is there any harm in continuing to drive it?
I have visually inspected the secondary air injection system hoses and can't find anything glaring (no kinks, leaks, disconnections). I am open to taking the car to the dealership but I have low confidence in their diagnostic capabilities. I am fine with them doing work once we know what is wrong but I want to tell them what to do (replace a bunch of hoses for example). How to proceed?
Address 01: Engine Labels: 07C-906-018-BAP1.lbl
Part No SW: 07C 906 018 AJ HW: 000 000 000 00
Component: D1-6.0L-AT-LEV2 G 6722
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWZ3Z0E5400307
Coding: 0000173
[Code] ....
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Just got the dreaded p2440 code which is the secondary air injection valve failure. Not only do you get several lights on the dash, you also get limp mode with this code.
My GX is a 2011 with 46k, and even though several Toyota vehicles have had their warranty extended to 10yr 150k for this very system, Lexus has done no such thing.
The dealer was very familiar with this issue and knew it wasn't covered under any existing warranty. He said it's "around $2000" to fix because one of the valves is still under the intake manifold.
Even though I hate to "RIG" my GX, I ordered the bypass module from EBAY. It blocks the system off and tricks the ecu into thinking all is well.
For those not familiar, this system runs on cold starts for 30 seconds or so to warm up the cats, it has no other function.
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Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75 76
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 RN
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 07510
Shop #: WSC 00066
3VWSE69M14M129075 VWZ7Z0D9541648
1 Fault Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
P0411 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0000 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 3B7-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No: 3B7 035 180 G
Component: RADIO 3CP 0007
Coding: 00031
Shop #: WSC 00066
1 Fault Found:
00856 - Radio Antenna
36-00 - Open Circuit
End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
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Secondary air injection system leak detected-Bank 1 & 2... 2003 miles on my car and the CEL pops on this morning. VCV bodies are being replaced tomorrow. The tech didn't fully understand what parameters to test for or what conditions would be present to set this code, I can't say that I do either... the flapper could possibly play a role in this..?
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I keep throwing a P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System error. My previous pump was seized so I replaced it, and broke a few of the chintzy air hoses in the process. Now, with new pump installed and new air hoses connected, I can go about 5 days before the code comes back on.
So to recap, I have:
Replaced the air pump
Verified the new air pump functions, yepReplaced the air hoses
Verified connection of air hoses at all junctions
Checked the Secondary Air Relay for function
I have not yet checked the solenoid - unsure how to do so.
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120K miles - love the car
CEL, skid, VSC trac and VSC off lights on - dealer said the code was p2441 Secondary Air Injection System switch stuck. Dealer said I needed to replace air injection system and that the cel would not go off until it was repaired. They completed the 120K service and when I picked it up, all the warning lights were off. I have driven it a couple of hundred miles since then and still no lights. Does that mean it could have been something else???? I love the car, but I need tires and brakes and now repair charges for a 2005 car with 120K.
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I got 2001 vw jetta 2.0.. I keep getting check engine light,,when i scan it keep saying P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected. i replaced new smog air pump, and new egr valve and today i was driving car and i got check engine light, its still same code.
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2004 VR6 24v ... I had another thread about my son's car stalling after driving about 20 miles and then running good again after letting it sit for a couple of hours. Anyway I changed the Crank Position Sensor and I have been driving it work and back the last couple of days so I am starting to relax that the CPS fixed that problem. Won't be positively sure for a while as the problem took a while to occur. So far so good.
While coming to work today the car picked up the P0411 code, secondary air injection system incorrect flow. When I changed the CPS sensor i unbolted a module underneath the car by the oil filter to get better access to the CPS. I did not remove it, just unbolted it so I could push it out of the way about and inch.
After putting it all back together and driving it for several trips with no stalling this P0411 comes on. Is that module I moved the Secondary Air Pump and could I have disturbed something. I will check it when I get home. How critical is that code. I read where it works to warm a cold engine. What effect would there be driving with that code?
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Any newer model with aftermarket water separators? If so do they perform better than stock?
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I recently picked up a 2000 jetta vr6 for a very good price its a glx I have owned a vr6 before and done timing chains myself on it this one is a glx , I am having 5 fault engine codes on my vagcom they are cam position sensor , knock sensor, secondary injection pump, and mass air flow it ran fine 100 miles yesterday this morning the epc came on then went off and ran bad can these codes all be related or do I have to replace each sensor individually..
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Been researching exhausts a bit and getting information about the full PPE header and PPE Dual mode exhaust to review?
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I have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
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How do u remove and install the turn signals in the mirror?
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Removed the battery to install a boost gauge and came back to a christmas tree cluster. Not just the usual steering/EPC either. I can post the expanded scan but you can see a lot of things are affected, still drives fine however. Airbag fault and parking brake fault appear on MFD as well.
Thursday,07,May,2015,15:43:55:18277
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20150311
[Code] ...
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I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
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Ive got a 89 Ford F250 four wheel drive with a 460. Ive had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side, i already installed new manifold gaskets but just the driver side i could still hear a leak but on one of the exhaust ports towards the front there's a stripped bolt, is there any kind of tool of some sort were i can extract that. i barely have room with the power steering hose and steering shaft in the way.
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I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
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