Ford Exhaust :: 2005 F250 - Removing The Cat Converter Off The Pipe?
Oct 7, 2009
i've got an 05 f250 SD 5.4 v8. i had a bad manifold and decided to get headers. i figured i would get the most performance of of them if i did high flow cats too. oh and i also already have an exhaust on it. the only cats i can find for it are universal fit. my question is how would i be able to get the cats off of the factory pipes without damaging the pipes or original cats? plus the pipe with the flange end is a really small piece. would i be able to get it off just by heating it up?
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I have a 2010 5.3 silverado, extended cab 2WD with 100K Miles on it. It's time to change the transmission fluid and Filter. It looks like there is an exaust pipe that runs about 3-4 inches under the transmission pan. Can I drop the pan without removing the exhaust pipe so i can change the filter?
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The exhaust pipe connecting the cat and muffler is broken. However, the bolts connecting them are so rusted that look like one piece. Any tips on removing them off? I am afraid that PB blaster won't work in this case. I am thinking of drill them through, but afraid of damaging the cat.
BTW, my car's fuel tank has some leak. I can smell the gas. Is it safe to use a torch to remove freezing bolts?
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I have a v10 F250 and I just put on a single chamber flowmaster that sounds really good but I would like the truck to be louder. My question is are there any negative effects on the truck if i get rid of the cat and run a straight pipe?
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2001 F250 5.4L - I recently had my muffler changed and the pipe flange on the tailpipe up by the exhaust manifold welded back on. I haven't driven my truck much this past summer so when I took it in to get the muffler fixed the front caliper got temporarily stuck like it tends to do. It eventually freed up but in the meantime I noticed a hot oil-like smell coming from my truck from time to time. I chalked it up to either the new muffler or maybe it just smelled hot and it was instead the front brake caliper still being stuck. One day I'm driving down the interstate and I start uphill. I noticed smoke behind me and pulled over. The brake was not overheating so I got underneath the truck.
The smoke was rolling off of the exhaust pipe all the way down it all the way up near the manifold but mostly around the muffler. The smoke quickly went away while I was under the truck. I noticed it doing this only while the engine is under a load like going uphill. Just driving around town nothing is noticeable. When it does smoke I lose power. Once I slow down for awhile and then gradually speed back up things seem okay. I checked the oil.
Normally I don't lose a drop but this time I was a quart low but the oil on the stick was clean. It's been awhile since I had my oil changed but very little mileage on this change (my truck has sat awhile). My truck doesn't leave a drop of oil under it when it sits. From what I read you can remove the radiator cap and start the truck to see if it's a blown head gasket. At least that one of the things I can check easily without actually taking the plugs out even though the oil looks clean. The radiator has not lost any fluid. The transmission fluid is also good. It's been doing this for about 3 weeks.
I still drive it to and from work (about 15 miles round trip) everyday but I take it easy on the acceleration and stay on city streets. I looked into the EGR system online for my truck and instead found an EVAP purge solenoid/valve in its place on the passenger side. I don't have any service lights on the dash. I went to Autozone and had them scan it but nothing came up. I read somewhere that either the purge solenoid assembly or EGR (I can't remember) can burn up the board if it goes bad resulting in no code showing up.
I recently changed a vacuum valve out that went bad that controlled the vacuum chamber used to operate the hubs on the 4WD. The 4WD is now operational again. Assuming the head gasket is not blown, what to check for next?
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I have a 2005 Subaru Legacy wagon with 190k. The exhaust(original) has a tiny hole in a pipe that looks like Y and splits to the two mufflers.
Can some thing like this get repaired or do you have to replace the entire exhaust?
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I have a 93 ford taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. The exhaust clamp between the resonator and exhaust pipe came off and I need to know what size clamp I will need to replace it. I think it is a 2 inch but I am not sure.
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i have my 4 inch exhaust pipe cut just behind the rear of the cab right now with no muffler. If i cut it further up maybe jsut under the front seat or so what would this to the sound? would it make it deeper or louder?
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Actually developed a crack and subsequent leak in a pipe running lengthwise, so assume the factory weld over the years went bad. Since it would be a weld overhead, wonder what method would be best? Would oxy acetylene work or mig? I don't have a tig so that not an option for me.
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Long story, I'll try to make this short, 2000 E250 5.4L What would or could happen if the catalytic converter was removed from the exhaust system?
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Recently I had my check engine light come on in my car as well as a service light. My car is at 140,000 miles and I drive it around the county for work so I knew I would have some expensive repairs in my future. My stepdad disconnected my car battery and then reconnected it which caused the light to go out so my mechanic was not able to read the code to find the issue. (We did find that my service light was coming on right before my headlight went out so I replaced the bulb and have not had the service light come back on since.)
My mechanic let me know my catalytic converter pipe was rusting and falling on my exhaust and gave me an estimate for the cost of a new pipe, O2 sensor and labor charge. He quoted the catalytic converter pipe at $304.25 and with everything else involved, the total for my estimate came to $521.00.
I have read before that some people suggested possibly finding a used pipe at a salvage yard to save money on the repair. I called around and found a place that would sell it to me for around $100.00. I'm not handy with cars and know the bare minimum when it comes to repairs, so what I don't know is if it is safe to use a pipe from a salvage yard compared to buying a new one.
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I have a 2000 Passat with the 2.8L engine. The flexible pipe which is part of the catalytic converter is leaking and the only way to replace it is to replace the catalytic converter. VW refused to assist with the repairs because the car has 96000 mi on it. Emission warranty is 8/80000. How I can replace only the flexible pipe without the cat. because it's still good.
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Replacing a Cat with a test pipe for added HP?
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How to disable the 12v DC-DC converter or what fuses I can remove besides the fusible link in the fuse box? I cant even find a writeup on how to remove that fuse...
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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The exhaust system from the downpipe back was stolen off this auction truck I bought, so I bought an even worse truck for parts but I'm struggling to get the exhaust off. Is there a trick to it? Does it come out going forward over the rear axle or pull out from the back? Should I just cut it and have a shop weld it back?
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I finally decided to replace a leaky manifold as the low compression and leaking oil has gotten to be too much. Not sure but it looks like I'll have to remove the intake manni to get to it. A fortunate side effect is that the oil leaking from the manni seems to have lubricated most of what would be rust-welded bolts. I'd driven it like this since I bought it 3 yrs ago.
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Tip for searching for "how to remove ford exhaust hangers" - these items are now among my most hated items. Very easy to install with a little lube on the hanger, but removing them especially while they are installed on a the truck is a major PITA! Spent forever today trying to pry them off and it finally dawned on me how to remove them easily. Thought I would share.....use a pitman arm puller or similar puller. Mine fit perfectly and made removing several of these (more than once) much easier.
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I have a 2001 Ford F250 Diesel. I recently cut the 4 inch exhaust pipe right behind the end of the cab cutting off the muffler and I thought the catalytic converter as well. I was talking to another super duty owner and he said he thought there was another catalytic converter further up in the pipe. Is this true? If so, how far would would I have to cut it to cut it off. Would this make the truck any louder...wouldn't mind if it did.
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Over the weekend I replaced the passenger side up pipe with one that doesn't have a spot for the EGR cooler. After putting the turbo back in it has a pretty bad exhaust leak. Sounds like it is on the drivers side somewhere near the Y pipe. When replacing the passenger up pipe I didn't loosen any manifold bolts or anything and I am thinking that the Y pipe is out of alignment with the turbo. What is the proper procedure to loosen everything up and get it aligned on the turbo? My guess is remove turbo, loosen drivers side manifold, loosen passenger side manifold, loosen passenger up pipe and tighten it again now that everything isn't under tension, install turbo and clamp to Y pipe, tighten manifolds. Is that the right idea?
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I own a 2000 E 250 Econoline van with 170,000 miles. I've been encountering loss of power on acceleration for months. Terrible gas mileage (8-10 mpg) and just recently, I get that rotten egg smell when I gun it and and travel above 65/70. I can feel heat from under the van when i step out as well. I've been blowing individual coil packs every other month after a long drive with a lot of inclines. It all points to a clogged catalytic converter. This van has 3. A front left and right by the manifolds, and a large one before the muffler. My question is, what causes them to go bad? I want to fix the cause before spend the money on new cats. Ive heard a rich fuel mixture could do it. Are there sensors that need to be changed?
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