Ford Exhaust :: 1995 F150 - Removal Of Second Cat For Better Sound From Exhaust?
Jul 24, 2012
I have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
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I just got a brand new 2008 F150 supercrew FX2 last wed. I love it, it's my first truck ever and I'm excited to drive it. I wanted to change the exhaust to something that has a low rumble and is deep, not too loud or anything.
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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The truck in question is a 93 F-150 X/cab 4x4, has 5.0 5spd. So yesterday i replaced my exhaust with pre made magnaflow "y" pipe/cat with a flow master 44 then new pipe all the way out. When i start the truck up this morning to let it warm up a little it started to give off a funny smell almost like brakes/electric burning smell. I was wondering if this is common for new pipes to burn off any oils that may have collected on them from the factory. I look under the truck and nothing is touching the exhaust, but the shiny new pipe is starting to change colors. So do you think it will go away in a short time? I have to an appointment about 30 miles away on the freeway think this will burn off?. BTW there was no smell prior to the exhaust change.
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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.What would happen if I had a muffler shop turn my stock exhaust into a true dual exhaust system with 2 magnaflow mufflers on my 6.9L N/A diesel?
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I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
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Finally getting to my header and exhaust install.
I plan on removing the secondary air injection as I have no provision for it. Will this throw a CEL?
Looks like it goes into a rubber hose and comes around to the top of the intake manifold.
What is the best/cleanest way to cap this off?
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Ive got a 89 Ford F250 four wheel drive with a 460. Ive had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side, i already installed new manifold gaskets but just the driver side i could still hear a leak but on one of the exhaust ports towards the front there's a stripped bolt, is there any kind of tool of some sort were i can extract that. i barely have room with the power steering hose and steering shaft in the way.
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I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
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I have a 2004 f150 LAriat supercab 5.4L triton with 120,000 mile on it. Without good reason, I let the dealer convince me to put new plugs in it. Ever since, I've had a serious smell in the cabin of gasoline and or exhaust, and a 2MPG drop in MPG. At first it smelled like gasoline. I took it back to the dealer and they said a connector had backed off, which is code for I don't even want to know what. They "fixed it" but the smell remained.
They then changed the rings on the fuel injectors. The smell got better, but there is more of an exhaust smell now. I checked many blogs about it and found several bloggers with almost the same exact situation. I suggested to the dealer that they need to check that the proper spark plugs were used and they were correctly seated. They of course confirmed this but God only knows if they actually checked.
I also looked up to see if there is a cabin filter on this vehicle and there seams to be some disagreement on the blogs about this fact as well. Now that the cold weather has arrived, I prefer not to take the cowl off or check the plugs myself until it gets a little warmer. The smell is noticeable most of the time and especially stopped at a light regardless of the heater or air conditioner. Should I be more worried about the smell or the fact that I actually took it to this dealer in the first place?
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When I start my truck in the mornings. In 20 seconds + -, there an exhaust "pop". I'm assuming its to warm up the turbos. The manual says to warm them up before driving. The engine is an engineering marvel, unlike my Cub Cadet that has a plastic hose to push in the oil drain and the filter don't have a hole in the metal frame for the oil to run into the catch basin. I hope that engineer dies a slow painful death
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Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. So I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
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So I was wondering where the O2 sensors are on the 04 f150s and if I could cut the rear set of cats out without throwing off those sensors?
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I have a 94 f150 with the 351 and i was wondering how loud it would be with that huge stock muffler cut off and jsut the two cats still in place. I heard the cats will still quite it down a little bit cuz I don't want anything obnoxiously loud...
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I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
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I currently have dual exhausts on my 2002 F150 and that's all I have besides stock for the exhaust system. How can I make it louder without getting rid of the duals?
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I want to replace the auto trans coolant lines on my 2001 F150 4.2L. I discovered I can actually see the top coolant line flare nut from outside the right wheel well, with the wheel and wheel liner removed. The lower line is just a few inches below. See photo, it's a little off, so the line connector is not seen:
The heat shield is just a little bit in the way for my hands, I have to put one through the red circled area. A 1/2" hex head bolt holds the shield to the frame (circled in green). This was easy to remove from the wheel well. After that the heat shield could be moved slightly away from the points I need to access.
I would prefer to unfasten the shield & move it out of the way for my hands. I found another bolt holding the rear end of the shield down to the frame, wasn't able to remove this - the bolt fastens to a U-nut in the frame that broke off & has trapped the bolt. Are there any other bolts fastening the heat shield down?
I was able to remove the old flare nuts with a 5/8" flare nut wrench, but have not been able to start the new nuts into their fittings, just not quite enough visibility and access.
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I tore it apart and there was no gasket or donut ring in the flange. Is there supposed to be a gasket or donut ring? I can feel the leak with my hand. I have retightened & it still "tick-ticks" real bad.
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I have a 93 ford taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL. The exhaust clamp between the resonator and exhaust pipe came off and I need to know what size clamp I will need to replace it. I think it is a 2 inch but I am not sure.
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I have a 90 bronco with a efi 351w and im missing one nut for the manifold to exhaust pipe flange. I have looked all over the net and can't find the size I know its a 1/2in socket but I need the thread pitch and size, had the parts guy try to sell me the stud and nut kit seem really expensive for just a nut and to install the full kit I have to pull skid plates and the trany supports just to start to get room to do the job, seems like a lot of work to replace 1 nut...
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