Ive got a 89 Ford F250 four wheel drive with a 460. Ive had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side, i already installed new manifold gaskets but just the driver side i could still hear a leak but on one of the exhaust ports towards the front there's a stripped bolt, is there any kind of tool of some sort were i can extract that. i barely have room with the power steering hose and steering shaft in the way.
View 3 Replies2016 F250, took out the seats to remove the console and install the jump seat and upon installation I stripped the bold housing for the front left corner of the drivers seat. Now it won't tighten up. Am i going to have to tap the hole and get a bigger bolt now?
View 12 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
View 2 RepliesI managed to get the drivers side exhaust manifold and all of its bolts off no problem. On the passenger side I had 1 bolt head that was already broken and I have only 1 other that is still holding on for dear life. I've been soaking it in aerokroil for awhile now and no luck. I tried some PB blaster today because I am willing to try anything. I also tried heating up the bolt with a torch and some map gas but not sure if I am heating it up enough or not. Anyways, everything else has been going great, got the uppipes off and the valley, turbo and pedestal all cleaned up good. Just need to get the last whole bolt and broken bolt out so I can install the new manifolds. What I should try to remove the last 2 bolts. How hot should I get the bolt when trying to remove it? Or should I be heating the engine block?
View 12 RepliesI have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
View 5 RepliesI've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
I'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
I have a 95 f150, Eddie Bauer, extended cab, 4x4, 302, 285 tires. My question is this... What happens if I remove the second cat. I am trying to get a better sound from the exhaust and have been told the second cat is making that impossible. There is no o2 sensor downstream of the second cat, so I'm thinking the computer will never know its gone. Also how well this affect power. With the bigger tires, it's kinda sluggish off the line.
View 5 RepliesI am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
View 5 RepliesWas looking for a cat back exhaust for my 04 FX4 and was curious if they involve any welding or just strictly bolt on?
View 6 RepliesThis is for a Pontiac Vibe. I broke one of the bolts that connects the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. Need to get some type of nut/bolt/spring that I could use to fix it. The bolt is sticking out of the flange about 3/4" if I had a long nut to screw onto that?...........
View 6 RepliesSo I received my International bellowed up pipes from Riffraff and I figure I will start soaking all of the bolts with some aerokroil before I get started on monday and I see the very last bolt head near the up pipe is gone. The bolt is there but the head is gone and you can definitely see soot buildup everywhere near it. I don't know if I should order a new manifold for the passenger side and new bolts, order a driver and passenger side manifold and new bolts, or just order one set of new bolts and try to get take the passenger side manifold off and replace the one broken bolt.
View 4 RepliesWell i had an exhaust leak on this F250 and so I started torquing the bolts on the manifold to the head. (45 ft.lbs) A couple were very loose so I was thinking "Great, this may fix my problem!"
My first mistake was probably the Harbor Freight Tools torque wrench.
I am on the driver side, second from the rear and then bang! I see a gaping hole where the bolt used to be. Bolt on the floor. I cant see up in the hole to the head, I think it broke flush with the head.
I have been thinking about toying with my exhaust. I don't have a crazy amount of money. I got a 94 F250 with the 5.8 liter 351. Heres what I was thinking. Get rid of everything after the cat, and then run a single 3 inch pipe from the cat to a flowmaster 40 series, and then exit either right before the back tire or right after it.
View 7 Repliesreplacing exhaust manifolds on my 2008 f250 super duty got a broken stud on right front top tried to drill it out but there's no room somebody said to weld a nut to the broken stud but if I do this will the weld mess up the aluminum head.
View 1 RepliesI have a 87 F250 with a 302. Every time I drive it I smell like exhaust. Doesn't matter how short or long the trip, but the longer the trip the stronger the smell when you get out. I found 1 loose manifold bolt and tightend it, but no difference.
View 13 RepliesBrief back story, a year ago my timing belt went and had to replace the cylinder head and all associated parts. No problems since then, until now. Recently the check engine has come on, and got the code for an exhaust leak. Can't remember the exact code number, but the leak wasn't causing a lean condition or causing the engine to act weird so I left it until I had to time to find the leak. On the way home today I noticed an exhaust leak that got increasingly worse to the point where at a stop light I'd go to accelerate and it would pull away very sluggishly. Got home, opened the hood and tracked down the exhaust leak to somewhere around the manifold/downpipe/turbo area. I took off my cover and noticed what could be a bolt missing, and upon further inspection a bolt that may be coming loose.
Here's what I'm referring to:
- Missing bolt?
- Loose bolt missing bolt?
- Loose bolt?
I got a 08 ford f450 sd in the shop with a cracked abd broken bolt in the driver's side exhaust manifold, any tips tricks on getting it out,I have everything loose but I can't for the life of me get the egr cooler out of the way to access the top bolts to the manifold so I can replace the manifold, or a link to a service manual would be great.
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