So I looked at an 03 Excursion tonight, has some of the usual suspects, but the rear hatch lock doesn't work at all, with the key or with the power locks. This anything other than a "replace its guts" type operation? I've done the foil thing with my F350, actually i cut pennies and replaced the piece with that, but this seems mechanical.
View 8 RepliesAbout a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
View 12 RepliesDoes the rear hatch come from the factory with a different key than the ignition? My key will not open the rear hatch lock, it doesn't even go in the whole way.
View 4 RepliesI've noticed that when I lock the truck, the rear hatch stays locked most of the time. I have to manually lock it with the key if I want my truck to be secure. When it does work, it doesn't sound weak. When it doesn't, it's silent. Where should I start looking?
View 9 RepliesHad my 2003 7.3X for a couple months now. Noticed the back hatch will not lock. Hatch will not lock when you push the lock button on the door or the remote.
The second issue is that my ignition key (the only one I got with car) does not turn the lock on the hatch.
So yesterday I tried to tackle this project. I soaked the latched in penetrating oil got it all loosened up were I could actually lock it with the key. So tried it with the key fob and no lock or unlock. So I pulled the actuator out and did the "tin foil" trick. Still wouldn't work. Didn't push the lock far enough to Lock the glass. However, it did move the latch. So I went down and purchased a NEW one from auto parts store stuck it in and whip-bang-boom it don't work either. As it don't push the lock far enough to lock the glass.
Vehicle 2000 X 4x4 w/ v10 Yes lock moves freely with little effort
Weather is getting colder and I need defrost every morning. Rear defrost doesn't work, and I found this when I opened up the rear body panels
Driver Side
Passenger Side
I cleaned both sides on the loose contact with sandpaper, cleaned with alcohol, and then superglued back together. Will the superglue allow enough electrical contact for it to work? Is there a better adhesive or way to fix? I want it to fully cure/dry before I fire up. Hopefully in the morning my fix works.
It's not the lock, it's the linkage. The actuator has been replaced and still can't lock/unlock it. Using the key is really tough to turn, but it will with enough force applied. Last summer I sprayed it with lube and it worked for a while, now we're back to square one. It's really clean, just acts like something is bent/worn.
View 6 RepliesI just had my treg serviced. One of the tsb's performed was the remote antenna fix. Range is much improved but one problem; the center button on the key remote which used to open the rear hatch doesn't work anymore. Now when pressed, the lights flash and the hatch does not open. I checked the comfort settings and they are still set at unlock doors and hatch.
View 5 RepliesSince I bought the Ex last December the rear lock worked sometimes. The key cylinder wouldn't turn, but the actuator would work from time to time.
So since it is hunting season and I want to lock up the Ex when I am in the field I dug into it tonight.
I want to know how do I remove the actuator from the handle/lock mechanism. It looks like it just snaps on. I pulled the actuator back a touch and the arm feel off that drives the lock mechanism.
So after pulling the handle and trim piece, removing the lock cylinder and hosing it in PB blaster and brake kleen and more PB blaster I now have a lock cylinder that turns freely.
After turning my attention the lock mechanism and flooding it with PB blaster, I now can lock the Ex. That mechanism is not a smooth item! So do I need to remove the complete lock mechanism assembly to remove the actuator? Can I buy an actuator with a metal arm?
Yesterday I unlocked my car, drove to work and when I got out, the locking button flashes red on my FOB but it wont lock the doors. The unlock, hatch open and panic all work.
I tried to use my spare fobs, and same deal, all but the unlock works. The power locks work if i press the button inside the car. if i lock the car door manually using the key, it will work, but the dome lights when set to open door lit will not turn off when i lock it.
This is really weird, how I can fix/reset this so I can have the locking function back? Should I disconnect the battery and discharge the system?
Turn signal flasher doesn't work in the heat. What gives?
All lights work. Turn signal stalk works fine. It just flashes a couple of times, then stays on. Everything works fine in cool weather, but it rarely works at all when the temperature outside is above 90 degrees. Very annoyed.
I bought my car and I can't use the key to lock my car from distance, change the battery on my key, but it's not it. How I could fix it? It has to be the main car why my remote doesn't work..
View 3 RepliesI have 2004 Honda Civic LX 4Door. Here are the issues with it.
-When I use remote controller to lock, it locks up the both front door, but not the back doors. When I unlock with remote, it unlocks both front and driver side back door, but passenger side back door.
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is open, it locks up only the passenger side front door
-When I use lock controller on the driver side door to lock while door is closed, it locks up the both front doors, but not the back doors.
My Excursion recently had all of the door lock actuators replaced, but locking still wouldn't function correctly...everything works fine with both the fob and the door keypad, but when using the door switches it would only lock, not unlock.
I searched for three days trying to find where the door relays were because I knew my actuators were all good....I happened upon a thread on here where a user had my same issue and was asking about relays. Like me he was trying to find out where the relays were, but users kept wanting to tell him to do the foil quick fix on his actuators. Even after he specifically said he was sure it was NOT the actuators, posters kept telling him to focus on the actuators, that there were no relays other than internal to the VSM I think...he finally took it to the stealership and they told him they had replaced one of the power lock relays under the dashboard.
I searched the internet for a couple more days trying to find where those elusive relays were, and all I could find was a generic "under the dash" if even that much--most people kept wanting to point users to the actuators. So for any future readers who want to know where the door lock relays on a 2000 Excursion are located, there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door lock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal.
You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower wiring cover below it that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right of the opening where you removed the knee panel (look just above the accelerator pedal), find and remove the single gold 7mm screw that holds the driver's footwell air diverter in place, and remove the air diverter. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three relays. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to make sure the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.
It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
I have a 1999 F250 super duty with the V10 engine. I purchased it when it was @111k miles. When I got it the passenger side lock did not always work and after time they both stopped. I have ready the post on how to repair them for little or no money that is not my question. My question Is there a way that I can tell if the truck had a remote for the locks when it was new and if not could I put it in the truck? Yes my wife likes that I unlock her door first but a remote would be nice when it is raining.
View 13 RepliesWhen it's really cold outside the hatch only opens about half way on it's own. I have to manually lift it the rest of the way. Is this normal?
View 9 RepliesMy hatch has been unlocking just fine (you hear the click and it pops out just a little bit) but when you flip the emblem to open it won't always open. This is of course intermittent so I can't get it to happen at the dealer. It feels unlocked but when you pull on it something still is staying latched and I have to unlock it again with the remote to release.
View 22 RepliesI've had a Prius (2nd generation) since 2006 and have been thrilled with it.
So today, I purchased a Prius V (three, I believe). Very happy with it in general so far, but incredibly disappointed to discover that some of the features I have most enjoyed about my 2nd generation don't seem to come with my version of the Prius V.
On my Prius (2nd), I can unlock the hatch (and all other doors) simply by depressing the rectangular button with the key FOB in my pocket. That does *not* work on my Prius V and everything in the manual and what I can find online says that it *should* work.
So I hooked up to the camper on Friday, threw some gear in the back off the Ex and hit the road. 4 hours and a couple hundred miles later I set up the camper and tried to pop the rear hatch. It's a no-go. It appears that the passenger side latch is releasing but the drivers side is not. My tool selection is limited since I'm on the road, any tricks to get the hatch open? Probably just deal with it till I get home since I don't want the reverse problem and not be able to get it latched again.
View 3 Replies