Ford Excursion :: Front Anti-sway Bar Missing
Mar 10, 2014
I've installed a iPod adapter to my Ex's factory 6CD head unit..but I'm thinking I might like to upgrade to one of the Andriod units.
I have seen that there are some that "clip in" like the factory radio...but I'm also wanting to avoid having to trim the dash bezel.
So...is there one may that will slip in from the front like.a factory unit?
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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I plan on replacing as I have a clunk happening. Thought I'd try here first.
Is there a brand that's better? 1Aauto has OEM. Is there a brand that's better or makes a difference?
Or is a front sway bar end link a front sway bar end link?
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What is the correct length of the front sway bar end links. I need that info to order replacements for my 04 X EB 6.0 4x4. I just don't want to wait another day.
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I installed the 2008 Scion xB rear anti-sway bar (part number PTR11-52091) on my Prius Saturday morning. For those interested in this mod, here are install instructions with photos of the process.
The 2008 Scion xB TRD rear anti-sway bar will fit a Gen III Prius.
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My 04 6.0 Limited and both front and rear sway bars. The front links keep wearing out after 3-4000 miles. But, I saw someone in here put F350 Sway Bars in their Excursion? REALLY?? Is this right or is this snake oil? Is their another way to fix the front links so they don't wear out so quickly??
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I have looked through a ton of threads to see if I can find one similar to my problem but have not. I have stock setup but had a dealer installed anti-theft device. The first time it would not crank, it was like the the anti-theft plug was missing so I checked out the key, tried the spare and finally removed it all together. I checked all the fuses and swapped the Starter relay for another of the same part number.
I later sifted it into neutral assuming it was the P/N Switch and it started. This continued intermittent for several days but then Neutral wouldn't work. I got under the truck and pushed on the actuator rod for the transmission and it started again for a few days. If finally failed again and I had time to buy a replacement switch.
Once installed I verified I had back up lights in reverse but still no crank. I have since pulled off the starter and had it verified as good. Is there more to setting/adjusting the neutral switch or is there something I am missing before I tow it in?
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I am having difficulty with my front sway bar downlinks, they keep coming loose. I have recently replaced them for the same reason with some O'Reilly Auto Parts house brands, they seemed alright when compared to the Motorcraft replacements, they even had grease fittings which was unusual for some of the others I have seen. I have torqued them down, I have tried red locktite, the only thing I have not tried is to weld them. It is only the lower nut which keeps coming loose.
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My Ex has a 4-inck Sky Jacker lift and I need to replace one of the sway bar end link bushing. Is the bushing size same as the stock ones? Need to know so I can order the right ones. What is the Energy Suspension part#....
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I've been having the loud clunk under the drivers side floor, that many others have as well. Did many hours of research and replaced the sway bar end links. Napa only had the left side in stock so I did it first last weekend and did the right side this weekend. One thing I noticed when doing the right side was the hole in the frame was all wallowed out. Drilled out the bushing in the upper end link and used a bigger bolt to fill the gap up. went for a drive and the clunk was way worse than it ever was still on the left side. So I took off the left one and went for a drive. Sure enough no clunk, the left one was wallowed out as well. So I did the same thing on that side and the evil clunk is finally gone. Just thought I would throw that out that if have a clunk after replacing the end links, Check the upper holes.
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After 2 months my hellwig sway bar is starting to make a lot of noise I've checked to make sure everything is still tight and it is. It does it on sharp corners and braking ....
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I have a 2000 EX V10 100K miles. Saturday my anti theft light started blinking rapidly and the truck would turn over but no fuel. No check engine light. Fires up if I use starter fluid. I have read online alot about PATS systems and keys so I tried my extra key.... Did not work. I am planning to try syncing the key with the truck again today. Whats next? I checked all fuses twice. I saw somewhere about the ECM? Might have an issue?
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I recently replaced Sway Bar Links on my 2000 X (V10, 4x4, 155k). They were only a year and half old but the bushings had gave way. Mechanic went with an OEM part with a new design from NAPA. This new design added grease fittings. Now the truck rattles constantly and seems to have more sway. Shocks are probably originals, but I don't think they are the main cause. I can tell the rattle is coming through the frame. All my suspension is stock.
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I'm going to be installing an 8" lift on my excursion and I would like to add a rear sway bar.
I cannot find any info on the hellwig if it works with lifted excursions or if I need extended links, which I also cannot find for an 8" lift
I found front sway bar end links for 8" lift but the rear is really frustrating me
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I'm new to the whole Ranger truck thing since buying a 1993 Ranger 4x4 for my 14 y/o son. It has a 4 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift running 33x10.5x15 tires. The front sway bar is not hooked up. I know that i will need drop brackets for the sway bar but my question is about the end links needed for this truck. There are 2 tabs with provisions for a horizontal bolt on each side of the twin I-beam where the end link would attach and the sway bar has a single horizontal hole on each end. Searching for replacement links at various auto parts websites only seems to yield the standard end links that consist of a straight bolt with a nut on each end and the rubber insulators. That clearly is not the correct end link for my application. Not sure if the front suspension is the factory installed unit or if it was swapped some time in the part.
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2002 ford explorer XLT. Here is a pic of the issue. have a broken right front sway bar link that has broken on the top however the bottom is still attached. I am unable to remove it. The top portion is gone and I am unable to grip what is left enough to loosen the bottom bolt. I have tried pliers as well as vice grips to keep it from spinning as I loosen the bottom bolt. Nothing has worked. The outside plastic OEM piece is stuck in there so well I am unable to break that loose either. I have sprayed PB blaster hoping to loosen things up but here I am writing this.
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One is coming apart, so I'm gonna replace the pair. My Chilton book says to jack the front end up. The part instruction sheet makes no mention of doing that.
Raising the front would allow the control arms to hang. That would seem to me to make it harder to deal with the links.
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This is my sway bar and drag link look like with the wheel turned all the way to the right. When I took these pictures, I had put the right tire on the curb too see what it was going too look like. However. Even with all wheels on level ground. It still is running very close. When the steering is straight, I have maybe 1" to 1.5" clearance between the 2. My truck does have a readylift 2.5" level kit on it. Running like this stock or leveled? Should I look around for longer sway bar links?
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2004 F-250 140k 4wd 6.0. Front end had noise, standard sway bar link knock. I disconnected the sway bar on the drivers side and drove it around. Smooth and noise free. Determined new links were needed, Installed new links and now even more noise. Disconnect them and no noise again. What am i missing? Bushings look good on the axle. Is the pressure from the sway bar putting strain on another wore part?
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Installing the Hellwig 1 1/4 inch Front Sway Bar on their 11 and up F250 or F350 SRW Pickup?
My 2012 F350 Super Cab LWB XLT 6.7L seems to have quite a bit of sway in the front end. This is especially true moving slowly such as turning into service stations or other off angle turns. The truck only has the FORD OEM puny Rear Anti Sway Bar but the front seems to accentuate sway. The Truck has Rancho 9000XL Shocks, Timbren Enhanced Suspension System as well as Torklift Quick Release Stable Loads in the rear.
The Truck I have is not overloaded but it does carry an Eagle Cap 950 Camper pretty much full time. True the Campers now days are tall so some sway is expected. I just want to reduce the apparent front end sway and wonder if others have used the Hellwig Sway Bar in the front.
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I purchased an '03 V10 Excursion back in '13 with about 145000 miles on it. I've added another 30,000 in the last year and a half. It's been good but has started missing and has gotten to the point where it will shut off at times and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. The MIL has never lit from the missing. Twice after it cut off the MIL was lit with a speed sensor error.
I've purchased a BAFX Products Bluetooth OBD2 interface and I've tried a couple of different Android apps with it, right now I'm using Torque Pro. It says it's an OBD I system which I saw references to in the "Why your MIL doesn't turn on" thread. I'm seen references to using Mode 6, but everything I've read seems to indicate that's an OBD II feature.
The missing gets better and worse. Some days it will seem to be fine and then other days I have to keep it rev'ed up to keep it from dying while stopping for a red light.
When it dies, it dies while stopped in drive or reverse. It has also died a couple of times while moving in reverse while connected to a 3,500lb trailer. Every time it's died it has started right back up.
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