Ford Excursion :: Wobbling Noise On Settings 2 And 3 Of Blower Fan
Nov 25, 2014
My truck started making what I would describe as a wobbling noise on settings 2 and 3 of the blower fan last week. Yesterday I went to leave and started the truck the fan was on 2 and the selector was set to floor, I went to move it to the floor/defrost option and heard what I can only compare to the grind/screech you hear when you try to start a car that's already running, then a pop and it returned to it's normal quiet but slightly wobbly sound.
I am assuming my blower motor is warning me of it's plan to call it quits in the near future. Doesn't look like a big deal at all to change, but my question is - is there any quick/maintenance clean-up type tasks for these or are they just replace when they start issuing warning threats?
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Only on the lowest two settings fan makes a chirping noise, it is a lot worse with the colder weather. It has been going on for over a year now and when I get the oil change I bring it up and they refuse that they hear anything... Finally made appointment for it and they still claim they hear nothing. It sounds exactly like the link here on YouTube... there is also videos on YouTube with tacoma's with the same problem but there is a Toyota Service Bulletin for it.
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Thought for sure that would fix my fan speed, but nope. Replaced blower control module, Still only blows on the highest setting. Didn't try running it on auto, but that's what it did on manually turning the speed up. What else could it be?
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It's a 2003 Ford F-150. When I'm driving slow I hear what sounds like a tin can clanking up against another piece of metal, coming from the rear end. Right, Left, or center I'm not sure. U-joint maybe?
There is also a bit of wobbling when I'm braking at a high rate of speed.
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In the last few weeks the odor coming out of my AC is pretty stinky. Is there something I can check easily or does this require a dealer visit? Also in the last month I hear a strange "warbling" noise as if my car was on SUV tires. I do not work on my own car but would love to learn if it isn't too hard .
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I have a 2001 Ex 5.4 4wd ... I shut down my ex jumped out, locked her up and came out two days later and she was deader than a door nail. Charged battery (charger/starter) started her up and let her run for a while. Came back noticed the abs light was on, shut her down and noticed my blower motor was still running, after I shut the engine down and removed the key. Tried it again, same thing. This is obviously what drained the battery, but what in the wide wide world of sports in going on? the blower motor usually shuts off with the ignition switch when you turn the engine off..
I believe this to be the original battery, would minimal battery power make thing act strange or ????? Ignition switch is tight, never had any problems with it. I have not done any "fixin" of the wiring system so it should be ok. Took it for a drive, radio turns off with ignition as should, blower motor will turn off if I turn the b/m switch to off position before I turn the ignition off. If I leave the B/M on and turn ignition off the b/m continues to operate in any speed and will NOT shut off even if I position the b/m switch to the off position. Turn ignition on turn b/m switch to off the b/m turns off............still perplexed!!!!
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My front ac blower fan is not working. I changed the resistor because seemed to be popular answer for fix but nothing I took blower off and straight wired it and it worked so that should rule out blower motor. Right? Swapped relay 103 and nothing...
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I'm new and have recently bought my first X. its a 2001 XLT with the 5.4. I really couldn't pass it up with the guy asking under 7K with 104,000 miles and not a rust bucket.
I discovered last night that my blower (at least front) continues to blow when key is out and off. I have played with the key to think its a switch but am not sure. Here's the other part, If I turn the selector to off before shutting the truck off it stays off BUT if i turn it on it will not go back off and stays on....
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Recently, my mechanic told me that I need to replace my 4wd vacuum switch (sits on the passenger side fender). After replacing the switch I drove the truck about an hour. On my way home, I noticed that blower would blow for a few minutes then cycle on an off. I was running the a/c on my drive home.Could the vacuum switch be faulty and causing this problem?
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Ok, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
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Well my blower motor only blows on high which IMO points to the resistor, went and bought one and still only blows on high. Tried to test the plug that goes to the resistor but couldn't get anything, shouldn't there be 12v going to the plug and then step down to the resistor until high is selected then 12v bypasses the resistor all together? Blows strong and cold, too cold actually since we cant turn the blower down so we have to turn it off for a few minutes.
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I'm on my second blower motor and fourth blower motor resistor since purchasing my 2000 Ex approximately 3 months ago. The fan returns after replacing the resistor but ultimately, fails after 2-3 weeks. What can I test, what can I do? The weather is changing quickly here in NOVA and being without a reliable heater is a non-starter for the family vehicle.
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I have a 2000 EX and my front A/C blower wet the bed yesterday. I have checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood. I removed the blower motor and supplied 12vdc directly to it. Works like a champ. I metered the harness connector with the ignition on and the fan speed switch at all speeds, I get a range of 8.1 to 8.9vdc. I metered the fuse terminals as well and get a steady 13.2vdc. Before I rip the dash apart, what is the most common to fail the Blower Resistor, Fan Speed Switch, or Blower Motor. Or, do I have a completely different issue?
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So I finally installed my brand new coils in yesterday. I took it for a test drive and noticed a noise coming from the rear struts. It sounds as if the spring is wobbling around, almost like a clicking sound. When I first installed them I installed them without the rear perch, then when I heard the noise I thought it was because I didn't install the perch so I ended up taking my wheels off and installing the perch back in. No luck. It's still making a clicking sound when I'm driving, constantly. I had my friend push down on the rear of the car several times while I look under it, I don't know what it could be.... I also cut my rear bump stop in half. Could that be the issue? I have about 10 threads left on the rear perch before I max out.. The spring is compressed half way. Once again, These coils are brand new.
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My blower motor runs with the key out on all speeds in my excursion. Replaced blower relay in hood fuse box. NO FIX. As I move climate selector to off and turn key to acc. and off it will turn off the blower. If I turn the selector to any position such as vent or heat with the key out, blower runs thus drains the battery. Do I have to replace the whole climate pod?
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Condensation from the rear blower drain line coming out normally BUT also have some dampness in the rear carpet just outside the jack/blower door? Possible partially plugged drain?
I'll pull the whole side panel when it cools off out here, but wondered if it was possible to diagnose without pulling the panel. I'll try the window/water trick tomorrow, but the seals look really good and are still supple, so really expecting it to be the rear blower or evaporation back there.
I'm still working through all the small nuances of bringing this old 03 Ex back to perfection mechanically....
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Bought my 2000 X from a guy a week or so ago, and am now fixing all of its little "quirks". A/C blower would only blow on high, diagnosed it as a faulty blower motor resistor and got a new one. Pulled the old one out and the wiring plug that plugs into it is fried!! 3 of the plugs are stuck in it from the resister itself and there is obvious signs of shorting. What my next step should be? Im considering getting a new plug and splicing the wires back into it, but that just ignores the obvious shorting. How to fix the short?
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When the blower is on, it automatically switches from vents to defrost vents on its on. Does it about every 4 minutes.... like it's haunted. Curious if this is something i can tackle or do i need to take it in...
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Have an 05 Limited Excursion v10 where the front blower motor will cut out randomly. The rear blower will work without issue even when the front is not working. When the front is working (98% of the time) all speeds seem to work and can adjust to all heating/cooling positions. After searching the forum I thought the likely culprit was the blower motor; which I replaced this pass weekend but coming home from work it cut off again, clearly the issue is not resolved. I know the ford resistor are known to be prone to issues but symptoms do not seem to point that direction. Also it is does not happen with any consistency, happens at idle just as frequently as the expressway. What else to check and how to check before I have to give in and take to dealership...
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I have a 2005 Eddie Bauer 4X4 with the 6.0 and Automatic Temperature Control. I need a new blower motor control module, and have been confused by what I have been able to find online. What is the full Motorcraft part number, or other information so I can get one.
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I have a 1999 VW and i have this grinding, wobbling noise coming from the left front wheel side. I brought it to the dealer and two other mechanics and they can not find why there is that noise.
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