My ignition is stuck in the on position. with the key removed the ignition is still on. the door alarm continues to ding like the key is in, and all the accessories stay on.
2001 7.3 limited.
I guess not ALL of the time, but pretty often when I turn off my truck and remove the key from the ignition, I get the "key is in the ignition" chime, and I'm not allowed to lock my truck.
View 2 RepliesSometimes when I take the key out of the ignition, the wipers move up slightly. I notice the passenger's blade most as it parks a bit higher than the driver's blade, so when they move up the right one is more obvious. They don't move a full cycle, just up about an inch and stop.
View 16 Replies2000 Ford Excursion - ac keeps running after the car is turned off and the key is removed. Air is actually coming out the vents!!! My wife can turn the ac off with the console switch. Nothing else is running
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota Camry LE. After changing the battery I now get an 12 beep sequence a few seconds after removing the key. The car is a base model and I do not have keyless ignition. It has two tones, and the sequence is high-low-high-low high-low-high-low high-low-high-low. I thought this was something reset after the battery change, but I can't find anything about it in the owners manual. I want to turn this off.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1994 4 cyl Toyota Camry LE. For the last couple of years, when I parked the car after driving it and removed the key from the ignition, the air conditioning would continue to operate normally and blow cold air through the vents, and all of the other electrics would all operate for about 5 seconds, then shut down normally. Again, this was after driving the car, engine off, with the key removed and the ignition switch in the proper "off" position. I didn't think much of it at the time.
Recently, the problem has advanced to something worse. Now, when I turn off and remove the key, all electrical components remain on indefinitely (ie radio, air conditioning, wipers work, etc... )
I can physically power down each of the individual components using it's respective switch, but there is still accessory power on the vehicle. Basically, with the key removed, the vehicle thinks it is in accessory mode. All the dash lights are illuminated, like right before you start the vehicle. The only way to completely remove all electrical from the vehicle is to physically disconnect the battery.
I am happy owner of a 740 1987 4 door sedan. How to solve the problem: the engine do not stop when ignition key is removed.
View 3 Replies2000 PASSAT 1.8t. As u pull out the key out of the ignition key chamber, u should here a click sound. That I believe signals the car that the key has been pulled out of the ignition key chamber. Well I don't hear the click sound anymore when the key is pulled out of the ignition key chamber and as a result, the car thinks the key is still is the ignition chamber, alarm does not work, radio stays on after key is out, I have to manually lock and unlock car. I think the key chamber has a pin that did not set right when I pulled the key out. I think some thing is stuck . Tired spraying WD40 into the key chamber with no results.
View 2 RepliesThis started today, when I turn off the ignition and remove the key the radio stays on and the steering column does not lock. The guy at the dealership suggested spraying wd 40 into the ignition. No go.
2008 sonata.
Having problems with Ignition switch going to Acc. even with the key removed and the steering locked???
View 3 RepliesNone of my 4 keys will operate my ignition switch.
It's stuck in off position. Steering wheel is not locked and I have pulled pretty hard on it to see if I could get the ignition switch to turn.
I have a new switch on the way but I have to get the old one out and don't know how to get old one out if I cannot turn the switch to on position.
Started truck and turned the wheel far to the right and shut the truck off to get better access to the grease zerks. Now the entire column, ignition is locked up tight. I can't turn the key, remove it, anything? Thoughts? I'm stuck
View 14 RepliesSo the previous owner of my V10 Ex had all the plugs changed and some of the coils needed to be changed at the same time.
Some have a yellow sticker on them. Some are plain black. The yellow ones say "Motorcraft" plainly on them.
The black ones look identical to the ones on my wife's Duratec 3.0L V6 in our Mazda MPV. They also have a Motorcraft part number on them.
Need to diagnose:
- Truck idles a little rough sounds a little like " puff , puff ", when put in reverse - still sounds the same ( looping hesitation )
- When accelerating feels pretty good until about 40-45 then it starts to shake , shudder and loose power. Shakes and shudder pretty violently.
Did a full ATF fluid service - no improvement
Aside from that it does not seem to have any other shifting issues at all. Problem is intermittent. Throughout the day it may run fine, and then at another point in the day it runs like poop when hitting 45+.
Could it be a bad Ignition Coil Pack ? Car has ZERO codes appearing - would either TC or COP set one off ?
Here is a pic of the one COP that I found does have a crack on the top ( passenger side ) - not sure if that could cause the truck to act the way it does.
I just changed the alternator this morning. Hook battery back up now cranks wont start no security light flashing no security light blinking at all. When turn ignition over gauges do not swipe don't remember if they normally did or not but now they do not swipe as in speedometer and RPMs. I've also been having trouble with the no windows no radio. Just driving down the road and radio cuts out and power windows hear a click under the dash radio coming back on Windows work again research and see if it's in the battery save circuit inside the dash cluster wondering if this is causing no start now.
View 14 RepliesReplaced factory running boards w Amp research electronic running boards.
Now I wanna fill or cover the unsightly holes left by Factory running boards. Trim molding?
I want to and went to buy a new 2012 F350 leftover - everything is good except that Ford.com says the truck was initially put into service In September of 2012 and therefore my warranty will expire in September of 2015 instead 2016.
Dealer says it's an error and will be corrected AFTER I buy the truck, so far I have been unable to get a straight answer from Ford.
Any information about being able ot change the original date a vehicle is put into service ?
02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
View 1 RepliesI need to tap a bigger hole and put in an insert for the spark plug. I can see that the piston is far enough down so that it won't get harmed from the process. But if I don't get the intake and exhaust valves shut, and then use compressed air to blow out what chips I can, and then I start the engine for a few seconds to blow out anything else (with the coil unplugged of course) will a few remaining chips, along with some that may have gotten blown into the intake, be a big problem? It's an aluminum head, so I can't see the chips doing much damage before they go out the exhaust or end up in the oil filter. But I am just guessing. I don't have the tool to test when all the valves are shut. Also, is it possible that a valve might be in the way and get damaged from the tap?
View 11 RepliesThe engine under cover had the oil door removed before I bought the car. Purchased used in 2012 (CPO). The cover hangs down in the middle now. The car was already past the mileage for the engine under cover TSB.
View 8 Replies2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro. Also may it be related to same car going into a deep puddle of water ( road was dark ). It was towed to nearest mechanic, where "engine was flushed". What does an engine flush entail? and how can I best disconnect the car alarm?
View 4 Replies