Ford Excursion :: Window Sluggish To Go Down And Up
Nov 3, 2013
So after a lot of work, I got the door actuator fixed. Instantly after, the window was sluggish to go down but it went all the way down, then it was sluggish to go up. Striked me as odd. Maybe I got a wire in the way? Happened twice more and then it wouldn't go down past an inch (from the top) and still will barely move. What could have happened or how I fix this? It is the driver's window and I live in a gated apartment complex
I should probably note that I had to unscrew that beam on the very left of the door (close to the actual door lock) and it wouldn't go back after 20 minutes of haggling with it so I took a small hammer and hit the bottom part of it so it would be aligned with the hole for the bolt. If this caused the problem, how much of a nightmare is it to fix it...?
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The lock in my right rear door has been temperamental for some time. I had always assumed I just needed a new solenoid, but I wonder if there's something else to this, like a broken clip or something that needs lubrication. All of the other locks work fine.
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I purchased a 2001 Limited V10 about 18 months ago with 95k on it. We are now at 110k and have done quite a lot of work to it. Recently it has become noticeable less responsive (still driveable, just seems sluggish).
-Replaced all four brake calipers (originally thought a dragging rear caliper was causing sluggish feeling)
-Replaces exhaust at point after cat as it was rusted
-Replaced all spark plugs at 98k and also one COP at that point as it was misfiring.
-All fluids were changed right around 90k.
I'm at a loss as to what could be causing this as I really thought it was my bad brake calipers...
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I have approximately 45K miles on my 2013 GLS. For some time, I've noticed that when raising the driver door power window, it slows down and becomes sluggish about 1/2 way up, almost like it's struggling. When wet, it's worse and will start vibrating while being raised. I've tried WD40 in the window track, but that's not a permanent solution. Oddly enough, I had the same trouble with my 2001 Elantra over the life of the car.
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I bought a nice 2000 Excursion with the 6.8 V-10 a few weeks ago, and got it really cheap because it had a few things the previous owner just couldn't figure out.
One issue the PO couldn't resolve is the passenger side rear window--he recently spent money having all new lock actuators and window motors put in because a couple of them had quit working, but the right rear still won't go down and he didn't want to spend any more $$ figuring out why. All other windows function normally, and I believe the right rear would go UP if I could ever get it down because the problem is only with the lowering voltage, not the raising voltage.
First I checked at the right rear motor connection and toggled the right rear door switch--I had 12v to raise, but nothing to lower. I swapped switches with the left rear door, a known good motor and switch...same result. I checked voltage at the INPUT to the RR switch....same result--I get 12v to raise, nothing to lower. So I moved to the next logical place, the master control (drivers door switch). On the output side of the switch, voltage toggles between +12v and -12v as it should to raise and lower. Everything is good from the time it leaves the driver's door switch, so apparently I'm losing my lowering voltage somewhere between the output of the driver's window switch and the input of the rear passenger window switch. I checked for chafing/loose/corroded wiring all the way from the B-pillar to the right rear door switch, a common cause of this symptom, and everything looks fine for that stretch of wiring.
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Today my excursion left rear window came off the track and felled all the way down. I finally got the window back up and into the holders that the glass set in. What do I use to glue or what holds the window in? A friend used JP weld but that didn't work for too long.
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My wife took my '05 Excursion diesel to work today with temps near zero. Got the sticky doors open for her and sprayed the seals with silicone so they won't freeze shut again. I don't think the spray has anything to do with this problem, but thought I'd mention it since I used it this morning.
At lunchtime she got in the truck, started it, and the electric passenger window behind the driver went down by itself and now won't go back up. All the other windows (and door locks) continue to operate properly. Thinking that perhaps some ice/water might be shorting out the circuit, I tried banging on and slamming the door, as well as "futzing" with both switches (drivers door and the switch on the problem door) with no change.
Also, I haven't had the door panels off the X, so if there are any tricks to popping the electric panel out without breaking retaining hardware....
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Rolled all the windows down(for the first time) to play some tunes. All of them went down like they should and all came back up but the back right passenger window. hit the switch...nothing, not even a tick like its trying to do something, it went down fine and dandy but is now totally dead. Figured it was the master switch on drivers door, spent the last two hours taking that apart, got down to the switch connections, cleaned connections and put back together...still nothing. At this point a really need to get it back up somehow(rain moving in), me and my brother tried jumping the connector, made some sparks fly but never got it up. mashing it hard, taking other switches from other doors, have tried all that and it still wont go up..er know.
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Rear passenger window will only go up. I tried new motor, same problem, swapped switch with other back door the problem stayed on the same side. Drivers main switch to that rear window does same thing, up but not down.
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I just finished doing the actuator repair on the passenger lock that was explained on this site. Put everything back together and checked my window. The window rolled down, but nothing for up. The switch on the drivers door would not work the window either. Pulled the switch apart and with my ohm meter was getting power to switch, but no other wires gave me a reading. So I figured it was my switch and went down and bought a new one. Put new switch in nothing. I then tried the drivers door switch and window worked? What to try now. I pulled fuse #7 that is said to be for my windows/locks during all this and all the windows except the passenger worked????
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When i try to use rear window washer the fluid comes out on the front window with front wipers not activating and rear one moving. The front washer works fine. The hose was disconnected above the headliner.
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How to get the struts off the rear window of a 2002 excursion?
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My passenger side rear vent window is leaking and I was gonna redo the weather stripping but I can't figure how to release the latch from the motor. It looks like a ball and socket type connection with a little wire clip in it, but I tried pulling it out and it wouldn't come out very far, and tried pushing in in more but no luck. I don't want to break the darn thing for sure.
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So the rear defroster tab has popped off the window. I purchased this kit from O'Reillys but when I clipped the wire back onto the tab it popped the tab right back off. I even waited 48 hours instead of 24 so it had plenty of time to set, even with the cooler temperatures. Okay, so I forgot about it until I took the stroller out and noticed the trim laying in the back of the X... but still, plenty of time to bond well. I'm thinking of calling a glass shop & seeing what they'll charge to reattach.
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I think my rear window shocks are shot. Last week when the temps hit -15 they completely failed. Are these a rebuild-able shock or do I need to purchase new ones?
Why do I have a bad feeling that this will be an overpriced item????
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The rear (side) pop-out windows on my '02 X have begun to sag at the back of the truck. They operate just fine, but the glass is actually touching the body when they are closed.
It's hard to get a good picture, but I've included a couple anyway.
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My friend who has two of my old Ex's and her silver '04 shut her hatch window first and then went to close the barn door and, well you know how that goes.
My question is, she has my old 2000 Ex for parts. Can the window be removed from the hatch itself or do we have to swap the whole hatch between trucks?
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Rear passenger's side window doesn't work, everything else is OK so its not the fuse, switch, or lockout.
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My driver window is VERY slow up and down, sometimes the window stops midway thinking it is hitting something because it is straining do hard, is this the motor dying, or does the window need to be greased?
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The rear most drivers side window, behind the spare, is not working. It has been intermittent since new but always worked at the dealer. Now its out of warranty.
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My drivers window gets progressively slower the further down it goes. Does this seem like motor is shot? Can you open window motor case and rebuild it like the older ford window motors?
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