Ford Excursion :: Vibration When Coasting Down From 110 - 115 MPH
Aug 27, 2016
So I'm used to the vibration coasting down from 110-115mph or so, I would mitigate it by applying light throttle. Recently it started coasting in the 75-80 range, then 70-80, and now it does it just plain cruising in that range as well. Nothing below 65, and nothing above 80 (coasting, cruising, or under load).
It's definitely a mechanical vibration, tires are fine, wheels are fine, wheel bearings are new... Thinking driveline u-joints? Don't have the money to throw parts at it unless they're the fix. I've consulted Christina's analysis chart and this is the only thing that makes sense so far.
No other symptoms anywhere else except those ranges. U-joints are, as far as I know, OEM originals. 276k miles seems like a hell of a life for them, especially with the abuse they've seen in the past 75,000.
I need to crawl under and give things a shake and wiggle, current condition is unknown. Left for a road trip to meet the wife's ex so he can have his time with his son, and the X was so bad at the aforementioned speeds that we turned around and swapped vehicles. It was worse this morning than it's ever been and I wasn't risking catastrophic failure with a zero emergency fund.
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I have recently developed a vibration between 30-45mph only when coasting. It smooths out when I tap the gas. The tires are less than a year old and I just put new manual lock out hubs hoping that would correct the issue, but it didn't. There's no clunk noise when in reverse or drive but occasionally when I get on the gas there's a short squeaking noise.
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I have an odd sort of occasional vibration in my 2004 W12. I've read the sticky FAQ info posts concerning vibration, but I can't find a report with the same symptoms. Here are the observations:
1. When present, the vibration comes in very mildly at 50 MPH and peaks at 65 MPH, then dropping to barely discernible at 85 MPH.
2. The car shudders under the vibration, at worst resonating interior items and can be felt through the seat.
3. The vibration ceases IMMEDIATELY at any speed when coasting with the throttle backed off.
4. Curiously, the vibration seems to be much more noticeable after about an hour's drive. Before that, not so much.
5. VAG-COM does not indicate any misfires... I was sure I have a bad coil/plug... but the controller shows no such evidence. The throttle-on shake feels like a miss.
6. Brakes on/off makes no difference.
7. Road surface does not make any difference.
8. Near new (2K miles) Yokohama YK 580 all around, stock rims. If it's balance, I doubt it would decrease at higher speed (being sub-critical). Likewise for belt bubbles or other tire flaws.
Some posts have pointed to worn suspension link bushings causing mechanical resonance at certain speed ranges, perhaps aggravated by engine torque on the mounts, so I'm leaning in that direction (bushing replacements) if nothing else comes to light.
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Symptom: A vibration that feels somewhat like a bouncing tire
Cause: Coasting in Drive (Applying the gas at all stops the vibration, putting the car in Neutral also stops the vibration)
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I just took delivery about 2 weeks ago of a 2011 LS 460L AWD with less than 30k miles. I have a very annoying issue that happens every time I let off the accelerator. There is a consistent vibration that seems to be coming from the drive train. It's really annoying to me. This occurs when driving about 50 mph or greater, nothing when driving at slower speeds. There is a 30 day exchange policy where I bought the car from, hope I don't need to use it.
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During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
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I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
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2000 V10 X vibrates from 40-55MPH when OD is on. When OD is off, significantly less vibration - very minor between 40-50MPH. Bad OSS?
I had codes for misfires on #4 and #8. I replace the spark plugs and coil packs on all 10 cylinders and codes changed to P0354/P0358 - primary/secondary circuit. Wondering if that is contributing to it.
I did the full reset process on the PCM. Codes cleared throughout the entire process. But once I stopped and restarted truck, codes came back.
My thinking is to get a replacement PCM first. I haven't done a lot looking over the wires to #4,8 coil packs. cursory look they seem to be fine.
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My new to me 04 X has a fairly bad vibration that starts around 55 mph. At about 60-65 it sort of goes away, but not completely. The wheels are 20" F-250 wheels ( 2006 ) with spacers/adapters. These were on it when I bought it. I had the wheels re-balanced and checked the ball joints. This made no difference.
This is not what I would call the death wobble, just a bad vibration in the front end. The steering wheel does shake/vibrate a little, but so does most of the truck while it is doing it.
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At about 60mph I start to get a vibration through the vehicle. Its not in the steering wheel but the seats have a little vibration and you can see the child seats start to shake some. Stops above 80 and doesn't get real bad, just a little shimmy.
I rotated and balanced the tires with only 6k on them and its no luck. Where to start looking next: driveshafts, u joints, sway bar, etc.
2003 6.0 4wd....
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On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
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I have a newish to me 02 ex with 7.3 psd. It had a gradual vibe at 70-75 mph that i brushed off when i test drove it. I figured it was tires, old vehicle, etc. Fast forward to a couple months later, it still happens in the same range of speed but now is bad enough to shake your coffee in the cup holder. Vibes happen regardless of throttle position, OD on or OD off, etc etc. It is entirely speed dependent, occurs on 2 lane roads when I go that fast, or on the interstate. Ive even kicked it into neutral on the interstate and the vibe is till there until it gets to 69, then it goes away.
I feel the vibe in the seat of my pants, barely in the steering wheel (I feel like what little is in the steering wheel is transmitted thru the frame, etc.) So here's what Ive had done thus far, and the vibe is still there, unchanged:
1. had wheels and tires balanced and rotated
2. had driveshaft balanced
3. had rear driveshaft u joints replaced
4. took rear driveshaft out and ran it up to 70mph on jack stands (no vibe)
5. pulled both rear axles one at a time to see if wheel bearings were OK and if vibe was there with axles out, and vibe was still there.
so i finally took it to a driveline shop and had them go through the rear end, thinking it had to be something there. They called me and said your carrier bearings are toast, so I said go ahead and rebuild the rear end with new timken bearings and new gears, etc. So they do that and I still have the same vibe at 70-75 mph. I'm at my wits end here, the shop totally expected the rear end rebuild to cure it.
The only thing I haven't done is remove the rear driveshaft and drive it in 4h to see if i can replicate the vibe there. I hate to spend anymore money on this just trial and errorring everything. That leaves the transfer case and transmission to be the only things causing the vibe as far as I know.
Also, the vibe occurs around 2k rpm, but only when at that speed. In lower speeds, at 2k rpm it is smooth as silk.
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I have been chasing a vibration that occurs around 60-70 MPH. Had all the tires re-balanced and checked the rest of the suspension and narrowed it down to the rear driveshaft.
Took the X to the driveshaft shop and he checked all the joints and suggested that I grease the slip joint as it still was original as delivered. Here's what I did.
Removed the rear bolts and dropped the rear of the shaft. Cut off the factory boot clamps. Marked the shaft so it could go back in the EXACT way it came out and removed the rear of the shaft with the boot intact. While the rear of the shaft was out I checked the joints and found them to be perfect.
There was no real grease to speak of left, just the factory ford blue. Filled it and the splines with moly grease and re-installed the shaft and boot. Clamped the boot with nylon ties (per his suggestion). No vibration any longer. Thought I would post this up as a quick tip.
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I have had a minor vibration above 50 or so mph(by speedometer). Installed a new driveshaft and corrected the pinion angle to near perfect. I have OEM 4.30 gears and 33.4" tall tires. I had to retune motor/PCM and one of the options while installing the new tune was tire revs per mile.
I input 620 and pressed on. Now my slight vibration is gone. Even at a corrected 70 mph it's smooth. I'm a little baffled, as I do not understand how a tire diameter correction in the PCM could affect the drivetrain?
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After driving for about 15 minutes, once it is warmed up, at acceleration & low rpm's, there is a vibration, mild grinding noise. Once you get to mid-range and up on the rpm's, it goes away. When cruising down the highway at normal speeds and a consistent rpm...no noise. Idling at, and taking off from a stop light, I get the noise. The longer it is driven, the more noticeable the noise is. Possible torque converter?
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On that note I have a 02, 7.3 Limited with 195k on the clock. It has had this problem since I owned it. I have put about 20k on the Ex since I bought it. Right at 70 mph through 75 mph I get a light vibration.
I does not matter what I do, on or off the gas in neutral the vibration is there until I exceed or drop below that speed. The vibration is really annoying on long trips and I feel on edge the whole time waiting for something to break.
Its not strong enough to rattle change or the mirror but is enough that I can feel it and hear it. I had the wife drive and seems like most of it is coming from behind the drivers seat area.
I really don't want to start throwing parts at the problem. The guys at the shop said its a truck and thats what they do. Needless to say I found another place to have work done.
Here is what I have done so fare
New tires (Bridgestone Revos E)
Upper lower ball joints
Balanced front and rear drive shafts
Replaced the front Drive Shaft CV joint - what was not cheap
Lubed the slip joint on rear drive shaft
Ran the truck without the rear shaft and the vibration is almost undetectable but, still there.
I had it up on a lift and checked for play in all the wheels, found drivers side rear to have a little bit of movement. - Could that little bit of play be causing my issue? I am going to take the rear wheel bearing apart this weekend if time permits to investigate that. No leaks on rear axle.
I have not put new u-joints in the drive shaft as the shop said they were fine. Only the front CV joint has been replaced. Should I go ahead and just change the rear u joints out?
Also all fluids have been serviced and no metal shavings on the plug magnets front, rear, tranny, or Transfer case. I have no lift and suspension is all stock. I want to put a lift on but issue more then likely be compounded with a lift.
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Just picked up an 01 4x4 v10 a few weeks ago. I have a severe vibration that occurs when I hit a bump at highway speeds. The vibration cannot be felt in the steering, and I must come to a complete stop to cure it. There is a rattle, consistent with rotation coming from the passenger front tire. It seems to get louder the longer the I drive it, Going away and starting over after the truck has sat for a few minutes. I have had the truck on a lift and there is no play in ball joints or tie rods. I have recently replaced the sway bar end links. When this started I had the front tires balanced to make sure that's not the issue.
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Coming back from PA yesterday after snowboarding noticed a vibration and a small amount of noise coming from the back of the EX once I got back into town. The vibration is def speed related and completely linear with how fast I am going, the noise for lack of a better description is like a low roar. Starts to be really noticeable coasting to a stop around 45 mph down to 0.
Only does it coasting, not under power, as soon as I pick up the throttle again it instantly goes away. Might open up the rear dif to see if there are any missing teeth or metal shavings if I can find time. Hoping its a Ujoint, cant afford to do a gear swap right now and I need my EX...
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So I started to notice a vibration only when the truck is under power at about 65 plus MPH...
Now I already know I have a driver's side front wheel hub that needs replaced and the springs are typical Excursion springs (they all 4 need replaced), but this is the first time I have experienced the vibration.
Before you ask...the steering wheel does not vibrate. The vibrations can be felt at my feet and they create a low toned droning vibration that starts at about 65 mph.
When I'm cruising down the highway at 75 mph and take my foot of the accelerator, the noise and vibration basically goes away.
My diagnosis (and a few probably "stupid" questions): u-joints are going bad...
Could it possible be something else? How long they may last before I "have" to change them? What is the worst thing that could happen if they completely fail?
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I have a noticeable driveline vibration when accelerating from a stop up to 40 m.p.h., after that speed it goes away. I have driven it up to 75 m.p.h. on the highway with no vibrations at that speed. It only does it from 0-40. I have checked the u-joints and driveshaft run-out and all is good. The truck was lifted 6" by the P/O. The pinion angle looks too high to me. (It has 6* shims under the springs).Front u-joint angle is 1/2*, while the rear is 2 1/2* in relation to the driveshaft. If this is the case, wouldn't the vibrations get worse, not better, when speeds increase above 40 m.p.h.? What else to check???
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I have a vibration coming from the rear. I put new tires on yesterday. Still it vibrates. I'm on the verge of doing a complete driveshaft overhaul very soon. The u_joints look a little worn but I can't feel any slop. I have watched a few videos on the slip yoke. How do you fix the slip yoke.
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