Ford Excursion :: Vibration That Starts At About 25 And Continues To At Least 80 MPH
Jul 2, 2016
I have a vibration that starts at about 25 mph and continues to at least 80 mph. The vibration itself isn't too bad - buzzing in the floorboards, seats, etc - but it's accompanied by a very annoying low frequency growl. It is only present under load, when I lift off the accelerator the vibration/noise go away entirely.
I rotated the tires, I also changed out the rear diff fluid and saw nothing out of the ordinary there. This pretty much leaves u-joints unless someone has other thoughts. The rear u-joints were last changed 53K miles back.
'02 Excursion Limited 4WD, 7.3L Powerstroke, 292,000 miles ....
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I currently own a 2000 F350 Lariat 7.3 4x4 and a 2001 Excursion Limited V10 4x4. The Excursion has a vibration that starts around 60 mph. What I've done so far...Replaced all 4 brakes (rotors and pads)..
Replaced wheels and tires (I bought new ones for my f350 and put the ones that came off the f350 on the excursion, so I know they were balanced and smooth)
Replaced the front axle (I put a dana 60 on my f350, so I put the front axle that came off the f350 on the excursion... again, I knew it was in good shape with good ball joints, tie rods, etc.)
Had the front end aligned
Finally, today, I replaced the ujoint on the rear driveshaft at the pinion (I discovered the old one was broken).
Through all these changes, the vibration has changed by degree but never gone away completely. Today, I had a bit of a revelation, and would like any input.
It has come to my attention that some excursions were given a double cardan rear driveshaft, mine included, and some had what I would call a standard driveshaft (one ujoint on each end). From what I know, with a standard driveshaft, the pinion should be angled parallel to the transfer case output shaft. However, on a double cardan driveshaft, the pinion should be angled "in-line" with the driveshaft. I measured mine with a digital level and the pinion is angled parallel to the transfer case output shaft.
My only two possible conclusions are 1) all the rear axles that went into the excursions were set up the same way, so the excursions that got a double cardan rear driveshaft are "wrong" or 2) at some point in my truck's history the driveshaft was changed but the pinion was never corrected. Need info on how the pinion is angled?
So finally, my question is, can re-angling the pinion with wedges or by cutting and re-welding the perches to get rid of vibration? Am I on the right track?
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If I just touch the starter and quickly release the switch, the engine continues to turn over until it starts. Does 2010 F-150 with a 5.4 do this?
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My 2010 Rx has just recently been doing funny things, and when I mention it to non lexus owners i get the stink eye, as in you're really complaining about that?
So I turn to you, I think you all are familiar with when you press on the break and hit the start button the power seat rolls you into memory 1 (I am the sole driver) well i have noticed that when I do this, my seat moves up about an inch and then pauses while the car literally starts up it then continues to move the chair all the way forward.
Also when i go to lock my car from my keys the chirping confirmation isn't as loud as it once was. its raspy somehow? I was sure if these two things have any correlation but I noticed these two issues together.
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2006 camry LE - 4cyl - 140k miles
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The car idles pretty rough & loud but ive noticed its only when im in 'drive' with my foot on the brake, at stop signs/lights. Its also much worse when the engine is cold. It settles right down if I come to the stop and shift into 'park'. So as I roll to a stop and hold the car in place with the brake the engine starts vibrating.
I dont know much about these things but it almost feels like i'm restricting it by having my foot on the brake and the engine wants more gas or air or something (could be way off base, but thats how i perceive it)
The RPMs sit around 1,000 and as the engine idles/rumbles it gets up to maybe 1,200-1,400 RPMs which i didn't think was significant but im pretty new to this.
Forgot to mention the most important thing- there is a rumbling noise that goes along with the vibrating, again only while stopped, goes away immediately when i pull off the brake and hit the gas.
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Recently we purchased a 2011 Avalon Limited. 2 weeks later while driving locally, I noticed a vibration in the car. The vibration appears approx 37-38 mph, and continues up to 60mph. At 70 mph the ride is vibration free. Our car is still under warranty, while at the local dealership, questioning the vibration, they notice a "code" for the transmission. They replaced the transmission. We still have the vibration.
The following week they "force balanced" the wheels. We still have the vibration, now it is stronger. I am almost ill with the vibration. I actually feel it, not just a visual issue. There is a Tech report on the issue, with another Avalon experiencing the same issues. What the issue could be? Michelin Tires. This is our 4th Avalon. We have owned a 96 XL, 2001 XLS (the best!!), 2006 XLS, and now, after waiting many years, I was able to purchase the loaded Avalon Limited. Only to have issues that make me sick when I drive it!
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I have just purchased a 2013 f150 supercab 5.0.. Truck has 53000 miles on it. I have known the original owner. It has a brand new set of Michelin tires as it had on it from the factory, same size and same model.
I have taken the truck in and had the tires rebalanced twice as I increase the road speed to 45 mph the vibration starts and is felt in the seats and increases and gets really bad at 55 mph then it decreases a little but still vibrates up to highs speeds.
If I look in the rear view mirror the left rear fender looks to be moving up and down and the right rear fender looks not to have any movement. What to look for?
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2010 F150 lariat 4x4 with 18" stock wheels. Rides like a dream up to 80, then it starts to vibrate.
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Just purchased an EX. There is a whistle that starts about 65 mph. Sounds to be coming from the front but can't tell exactly where???
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My 2003 F-250 5.4L 2WD has a front end vibration that starts around 40MPH (sometimes) and gets gradually worse until it goes away at 55 MPH. It oscillates the wheel a good 3/4"-1". It also does it also when decelerating through those speeds. It "feels" like the left side, but I can't be sure. When I jacked it up, I could get some movement laterally on the left wheel, but not the right. Also Noticed that the drive shaft has about 1/4" of play at the carrier bearing. Leaning towards ball joints.
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I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
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When its cold outside it starts and runs good for about a second and then shuts off or runs really rough and then takes off. I tried turning it off and starting it about 4 times. After the fourth time I gave it a little gas and it started after that. If the block heater is plugged in it starts fine. And starts great the rest of the day after the initial start. It is not that cold here, lower 20's in the morning. Where to start with this problem?
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Tried to start my 2002 7.3 Ex today and it tries to start but than sounds like something is grinding, on a 2nd or 3rd try it starts. The sound is similar to if you try to start an already running vehicle.
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My X keeps needing to be jumped and after being jumped it runs like a top as usual. Took it to Autozone and had them hookup their little portable doohikie and told me the battery is fine but the alternator should be pushing out 14a and it's only pushing 13? Didn't realize 1aI made that big of difference but whatever. I am taking the alternator off in a few minutes and I'm gonna have it bench tested to confirm the output.
Is there a heavier duty alt that I can get? I will be pulling an RV before too long so I'd like to get one that's gonna last. Btw, 2000 excursion limited v10 gas 6.8...
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Had a new V10 Gas engine put in the Ex about three years ago and Been running like a CHAMP....UNTIL.....I'm Driving Back from Halliburton today and my Excursion starts Missing from Idle through to 80mph.. Finally threw an SES Light pulled into the local Auto Parts store and they ran Diagnostic on it and stated P0358... Now I know where to start looking...Only thing is I don't know exactly which one ... What's a good process to eliminate each COP to find the culprit does the #8 at the end designate what cylinder is misfiring?
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I just recently bought a 2000 excursion 7.3 diesel. I'm new to diesel but learning. So far I've installed a new drop in filter in my airbox. Cut out the plastic behind the grill for cold ram air into the intake. I've done the FPR mod and cleaned out the exhaust back pressure tube. And last but not least I installed an Edge Evolution 2 programmer running stage 3 with timing advanced 2 degrees. Nothing else to the custom settings other than what stage 3 provided. Here is my problem. On the freeway at 65-75mph cruising with the cruise control on, the truck starts to shudder. I suspect my TC lockup is going out but not sure. So I wanted to test it buy installing a manual lockup switch. So I installed the switch running a wire from the plug going into the transmission on the purple with yellow wire using a saddle tap to a switch to part of the dash frame under the dash. Went to test out the switch and nothing happened.
As y'all and other forum's have described I should feel something and the od light should start flashing. I get nothing. Tried testing the switch and my ground source and everything tests out fine. Tested the saddle tap. Its fine. Tested with the switch on and using a meter to check ohms at the tap to the frame of the truck I'm getting 8ohms. I would think there shouldn't be any resistance because its a dead short but that's what I'm getting. Am I connected to the right spot on the transmission or should I move the tap to the plug under the brake master cylinder. Could my TC lockup solenoid be going out and that's what's causing the shudder and why the manual switch doesn't work.
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2000 V10 X vibrates from 40-55MPH when OD is on. When OD is off, significantly less vibration - very minor between 40-50MPH. Bad OSS?
I had codes for misfires on #4 and #8. I replace the spark plugs and coil packs on all 10 cylinders and codes changed to P0354/P0358 - primary/secondary circuit. Wondering if that is contributing to it.
I did the full reset process on the PCM. Codes cleared throughout the entire process. But once I stopped and restarted truck, codes came back.
My thinking is to get a replacement PCM first. I haven't done a lot looking over the wires to #4,8 coil packs. cursory look they seem to be fine.
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My new to me 04 X has a fairly bad vibration that starts around 55 mph. At about 60-65 it sort of goes away, but not completely. The wheels are 20" F-250 wheels ( 2006 ) with spacers/adapters. These were on it when I bought it. I had the wheels re-balanced and checked the ball joints. This made no difference.
This is not what I would call the death wobble, just a bad vibration in the front end. The steering wheel does shake/vibrate a little, but so does most of the truck while it is doing it.
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At about 60mph I start to get a vibration through the vehicle. Its not in the steering wheel but the seats have a little vibration and you can see the child seats start to shake some. Stops above 80 and doesn't get real bad, just a little shimmy.
I rotated and balanced the tires with only 6k on them and its no luck. Where to start looking next: driveshafts, u joints, sway bar, etc.
2003 6.0 4wd....
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On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
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I have a newish to me 02 ex with 7.3 psd. It had a gradual vibe at 70-75 mph that i brushed off when i test drove it. I figured it was tires, old vehicle, etc. Fast forward to a couple months later, it still happens in the same range of speed but now is bad enough to shake your coffee in the cup holder. Vibes happen regardless of throttle position, OD on or OD off, etc etc. It is entirely speed dependent, occurs on 2 lane roads when I go that fast, or on the interstate. Ive even kicked it into neutral on the interstate and the vibe is till there until it gets to 69, then it goes away.
I feel the vibe in the seat of my pants, barely in the steering wheel (I feel like what little is in the steering wheel is transmitted thru the frame, etc.) So here's what Ive had done thus far, and the vibe is still there, unchanged:
1. had wheels and tires balanced and rotated
2. had driveshaft balanced
3. had rear driveshaft u joints replaced
4. took rear driveshaft out and ran it up to 70mph on jack stands (no vibe)
5. pulled both rear axles one at a time to see if wheel bearings were OK and if vibe was there with axles out, and vibe was still there.
so i finally took it to a driveline shop and had them go through the rear end, thinking it had to be something there. They called me and said your carrier bearings are toast, so I said go ahead and rebuild the rear end with new timken bearings and new gears, etc. So they do that and I still have the same vibe at 70-75 mph. I'm at my wits end here, the shop totally expected the rear end rebuild to cure it.
The only thing I haven't done is remove the rear driveshaft and drive it in 4h to see if i can replicate the vibe there. I hate to spend anymore money on this just trial and errorring everything. That leaves the transfer case and transmission to be the only things causing the vibe as far as I know.
Also, the vibe occurs around 2k rpm, but only when at that speed. In lower speeds, at 2k rpm it is smooth as silk.
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