Ford Excursion :: Vibration And Noise From Back?
Mar 3, 2013
Coming back from PA yesterday after snowboarding noticed a vibration and a small amount of noise coming from the back of the EX once I got back into town. The vibration is def speed related and completely linear with how fast I am going, the noise for lack of a better description is like a low roar. Starts to be really noticeable coasting to a stop around 45 mph down to 0.
Only does it coasting, not under power, as soon as I pick up the throttle again it instantly goes away. Might open up the rear dif to see if there are any missing teeth or metal shavings if I can find time. Hoping its a Ujoint, cant afford to do a gear swap right now and I need my EX...
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With normal acceleration my ex up shifts at about 50-55 mph and makes a shuttering noise and has a slight vibration briefly during the up shift. Could a tranny fluid change work?
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Ok...not sure were to go with this or how to explain it, while climbing a steep paved hill at 5-10 mph I get a rumbling vibration and noise. If I were to guess almost like axle wrap is causing the U Joints to bind or something. Runs and drives fine other then that. If I put it in 4x4 it does not happen, only seems to happen when wheels cant slip while climbing hills at LOW speed.
Don't notice it if climbing a dirt hill. There is a hill at the kids baseball fields that is steep and paved that its really bad on, way to busy right now to play on it to see what's happening. Tranny was looked at and oil changed.
New BDS 4" lift - had same issue prior to lift, though stock springs were worn.
Searched the form but really didn't come up with anything at this low of speed. While in Wisconsin the resort we were at the paved hills were so steep it felt like something was going to break. Put it in 4x4 and it was fine. This was with stock leafs.
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I am getting a groaning noise in the back storage area as the body flexes when starting to move. At first I thought it might be the spare tire mounting or the third seat but I still get the noise with the tire out and the seat out.
Does this sound like a body mount issue? Have not had any body mount noises in the front. Can I access the rear body mount without dropping the gas tank?
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2000 V10 X vibrates from 40-55MPH when OD is on. When OD is off, significantly less vibration - very minor between 40-50MPH. Bad OSS?
I had codes for misfires on #4 and #8. I replace the spark plugs and coil packs on all 10 cylinders and codes changed to P0354/P0358 - primary/secondary circuit. Wondering if that is contributing to it.
I did the full reset process on the PCM. Codes cleared throughout the entire process. But once I stopped and restarted truck, codes came back.
My thinking is to get a replacement PCM first. I haven't done a lot looking over the wires to #4,8 coil packs. cursory look they seem to be fine.
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My wife took my '05 Excursion diesel to work today with temps near zero. Got the sticky doors open for her and sprayed the seals with silicone so they won't freeze shut again. I don't think the spray has anything to do with this problem, but thought I'd mention it since I used it this morning.
At lunchtime she got in the truck, started it, and the electric passenger window behind the driver went down by itself and now won't go back up. All the other windows (and door locks) continue to operate properly. Thinking that perhaps some ice/water might be shorting out the circuit, I tried banging on and slamming the door, as well as "futzing" with both switches (drivers door and the switch on the problem door) with no change.
Also, I haven't had the door panels off the X, so if there are any tricks to popping the electric panel out without breaking retaining hardware....
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Rolled all the windows down(for the first time) to play some tunes. All of them went down like they should and all came back up but the back right passenger window. hit the switch...nothing, not even a tick like its trying to do something, it went down fine and dandy but is now totally dead. Figured it was the master switch on drivers door, spent the last two hours taking that apart, got down to the switch connections, cleaned connections and put back together...still nothing. At this point a really need to get it back up somehow(rain moving in), me and my brother tried jumping the connector, made some sparks fly but never got it up. mashing it hard, taking other switches from other doors, have tried all that and it still wont go up..er know.
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I've noticed that my Ex has an odd noise when driving over minor bumps like repaired potholes. It doesn't do it over larger bumps. Hard to describe, but it's like a "slap-back" after hitting the bump. Sounds like a dull thud that's apparently coming from the right front. Sounds like the wheel is hitting the bump twice.
Anyhow, after working underneath...and checking for things that are loose, worn, etc...I found nothing. The truck has just under 41,000 miles. The only thing that seemed to be a bit off was the right front shock. I pulled them all while painting/cleaning up...and of course, each one expanded immediately. This one didn't. Once it was compressed fully..it did expand but not as quickly as the others. (In order to get back on the road, I put it back.)
So, before I start throwing parts at this truck. My initial thought is that this one shock is weak and isn't keeping the front wheel planted.
All that being said, I could swap the shocks side to side and see if the noise moves. But....it's difficult to move gas shocks around so if it's thought that shocks could be the case..I'd just put new ones on. (Any recommendation?)
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I had to make a few trips up and down the snow covered driveway. I moved the dash switch to 4wd high for each trip and then back to 2wd when I was turning around at each end. On my final trip back, I got stuck while turning around in 2wd. I tried switching to 4wd high and low but could not get either to engage with rocking back and forth.
The dash light did not come on and only the rear right wheel was spinning. Shifting to park or neutral and turning the switch to 4wd did not change the results. When I finally got myself unstuck, the 4wd still wouldn't engage when driving in a straight line.
What could have broke or stopped working? Bad vacuum line? Bad fuse? Could I have still initiated 4wd by manually locking the hubs? If so, is the process with the dash switch still the same even when manually locking the hubs?
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My ex-was broken into 2 nights ago and the thieves made off with about 3 grand of tools. Any safe storage in the back of an ex? Maybe something like those boxes made for pickup beds. The only idea I have is bolting a gang box to the floor of the ex where the 3rd row usually goes. I'm not looking to spend too much so try to keep the suggestions to something that wouldn't cost too much more than $500ish.
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Outside backup sensors both went out on my03' Excursion, but the inside ones are still working.
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My new to me 04 X has a fairly bad vibration that starts around 55 mph. At about 60-65 it sort of goes away, but not completely. The wheels are 20" F-250 wheels ( 2006 ) with spacers/adapters. These were on it when I bought it. I had the wheels re-balanced and checked the ball joints. This made no difference.
This is not what I would call the death wobble, just a bad vibration in the front end. The steering wheel does shake/vibrate a little, but so does most of the truck while it is doing it.
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At about 60mph I start to get a vibration through the vehicle. Its not in the steering wheel but the seats have a little vibration and you can see the child seats start to shake some. Stops above 80 and doesn't get real bad, just a little shimmy.
I rotated and balanced the tires with only 6k on them and its no luck. Where to start looking next: driveshafts, u joints, sway bar, etc.
2003 6.0 4wd....
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On our trip to Daytona this weekend I noticed a vibration/shudder between 45-55mph. Above and below that range it doesn't happen. Dont feel it in steering wheel or pedal. Does it in both 3rd and OD. Got under truck and driveshaft doesn't move at all. Just got those new tires put on a couple weeks ago. Don't remember this vibration before that.
Just checked tire pressure - front right 48 psi. All the rest have about 45 psi, would that do it? I have a shudder in brakes from stops above 45 mph I'm assuming warped rotors, could that do it?
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I have a newish to me 02 ex with 7.3 psd. It had a gradual vibe at 70-75 mph that i brushed off when i test drove it. I figured it was tires, old vehicle, etc. Fast forward to a couple months later, it still happens in the same range of speed but now is bad enough to shake your coffee in the cup holder. Vibes happen regardless of throttle position, OD on or OD off, etc etc. It is entirely speed dependent, occurs on 2 lane roads when I go that fast, or on the interstate. Ive even kicked it into neutral on the interstate and the vibe is till there until it gets to 69, then it goes away.
I feel the vibe in the seat of my pants, barely in the steering wheel (I feel like what little is in the steering wheel is transmitted thru the frame, etc.) So here's what Ive had done thus far, and the vibe is still there, unchanged:
1. had wheels and tires balanced and rotated
2. had driveshaft balanced
3. had rear driveshaft u joints replaced
4. took rear driveshaft out and ran it up to 70mph on jack stands (no vibe)
5. pulled both rear axles one at a time to see if wheel bearings were OK and if vibe was there with axles out, and vibe was still there.
so i finally took it to a driveline shop and had them go through the rear end, thinking it had to be something there. They called me and said your carrier bearings are toast, so I said go ahead and rebuild the rear end with new timken bearings and new gears, etc. So they do that and I still have the same vibe at 70-75 mph. I'm at my wits end here, the shop totally expected the rear end rebuild to cure it.
The only thing I haven't done is remove the rear driveshaft and drive it in 4h to see if i can replicate the vibe there. I hate to spend anymore money on this just trial and errorring everything. That leaves the transfer case and transmission to be the only things causing the vibe as far as I know.
Also, the vibe occurs around 2k rpm, but only when at that speed. In lower speeds, at 2k rpm it is smooth as silk.
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I have been chasing a vibration that occurs around 60-70 MPH. Had all the tires re-balanced and checked the rest of the suspension and narrowed it down to the rear driveshaft.
Took the X to the driveshaft shop and he checked all the joints and suggested that I grease the slip joint as it still was original as delivered. Here's what I did.
Removed the rear bolts and dropped the rear of the shaft. Cut off the factory boot clamps. Marked the shaft so it could go back in the EXACT way it came out and removed the rear of the shaft with the boot intact. While the rear of the shaft was out I checked the joints and found them to be perfect.
There was no real grease to speak of left, just the factory ford blue. Filled it and the splines with moly grease and re-installed the shaft and boot. Clamped the boot with nylon ties (per his suggestion). No vibration any longer. Thought I would post this up as a quick tip.
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So I'm used to the vibration coasting down from 110-115mph or so, I would mitigate it by applying light throttle. Recently it started coasting in the 75-80 range, then 70-80, and now it does it just plain cruising in that range as well. Nothing below 65, and nothing above 80 (coasting, cruising, or under load).
It's definitely a mechanical vibration, tires are fine, wheels are fine, wheel bearings are new... Thinking driveline u-joints? Don't have the money to throw parts at it unless they're the fix. I've consulted Christina's analysis chart and this is the only thing that makes sense so far.
No other symptoms anywhere else except those ranges. U-joints are, as far as I know, OEM originals. 276k miles seems like a hell of a life for them, especially with the abuse they've seen in the past 75,000.
I need to crawl under and give things a shake and wiggle, current condition is unknown. Left for a road trip to meet the wife's ex so he can have his time with his son, and the X was so bad at the aforementioned speeds that we turned around and swapped vehicles. It was worse this morning than it's ever been and I wasn't risking catastrophic failure with a zero emergency fund.
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I have had a minor vibration above 50 or so mph(by speedometer). Installed a new driveshaft and corrected the pinion angle to near perfect. I have OEM 4.30 gears and 33.4" tall tires. I had to retune motor/PCM and one of the options while installing the new tune was tire revs per mile.
I input 620 and pressed on. Now my slight vibration is gone. Even at a corrected 70 mph it's smooth. I'm a little baffled, as I do not understand how a tire diameter correction in the PCM could affect the drivetrain?
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I've had an intermittent problem with the driver side power seat not moving back. Can't figure out if its a switch or drive gear.
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How to install snaps on the 2nd row back seat fold down board? My just wont stay up anymore with the velcro.
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I've searched the forums a bit but haven't found a definitive answer on my problem.
My back hatch door on my Ex won't lock.
Sadly anyone could climb through the back after I 'lock' it via remote. I have the standard ford sec systm which is just locking and need auth key to start.
Any solid leads I can get for my 2001
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