Actually 50/50 at 10 degrees and 100% below 0. Dash lights come on when I turn the key, but no cranking from starter. Not even a click. Sun shines on it for a while and it starts with no problem. Ground strap? Starter relay? Starter solenoid?
View 14 Replies1994 Ford E150 5.0L. Will not start when the weather is above 70 Degrees F. No fire from coil...
View 19 RepliesMy F250 Will not start once the oil temp reaches about 117 degrees. Once oil temp drops it fires up. In the morning it only crranks for a couple of seconds. What could this be? I am getting over 1300 PSI HPOP while cranking. FICM Volts 48.5. Just no hot start. What do you think it is and how much at the repair shop. I have the Torque App, IPR values are good to I think.
View 10 RepliesI have a 91 Ranger 4cyl. Tune up about 2 months ago. Mileage about 178,000. When the temperature gets below about 45 degrees, the truck will not start. It cranks like the battery has plenty of juice but refuses to start. Once the temp warms up, the truck will start first crank.
View 5 RepliesJust purchased a 2003 F-350 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab w/ 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel w/ 192,000 miles. This truck will be used exclusively for pulling my 36', 8,000lbs travel trailer. I have a 2011 F-150 Ecoboost as my daily driver. The 2003 was purchased from a used dealer in Texas and is in immaculate condition and was definitely not a work truck. It was a 55 degree day and the truck was inside their building when I picked it up. No starting issues then and drove it the 3 hour 70-75mph trip home, with 2 stops on the way (wife was along) with no issues. Started quick and ran like a champ. The next morning it was 32 degrees outside and it would not start. I cycled the key on & off several times prior to starting and still no start. Plugged the heater in and 1 hour later it fired up. I have noticed since that if the outdoor temperature is below 55 degrees, it will not start without being plugged in. When plugged in, it starts easy, no smoke, purrs like a tiger at idle and runs great. I Have started on a mental list of things to check.....here goes:
1. The dealer stated he just changed the oil & filter. Can't rely on this 100 percent so I plan to put new 15W40 oil and filter in. Oklahoma summers are pretty warm.
2. Check the FICM for 48 voltage output.
3. The glow plug indicator on the dash is working. The colder it is outside, the longer it stays on. If the indicator is working, is this an indicator that the glow plug relay is working? Anyway....plan to check this relay.
4. Pull one or two glow plugs, ones easy to get to, to verify their function.
5. Check both batteries....I assume they will have to be disconnected from one another before doing this.
I have been working on gasoline engines for 40 years and no stranger to busted knuckles & dirty fingernails.....just new to diesel engines. I am impressed however with their construction and method of operating.
My 2003 Acura TL has trouble starting if I am running errands and the car is turned off and then I turn it back on. This only occurs when the air temp is 50 degrees. I have had the local Acura dealer evaluate it without a confirmed diagnosis.
View 3 RepliesMy Ion won't start under -15 degrees C but when things warm up turn the key and it roars, dealer says when it won't go call us. What to do? Battery cell freezing or something else I should know about?
View 30 RepliesXc 90 D5 2.4 2005 diesel, will not start when it's cold (below +5 degrees), If I use the pre heater for 3 min it starts fine.
I have checked the injectors (leak back test). I checked the glow plugs and they all glow red when I turn on the ignition.
No error codes (Volvo has checked)
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Just recently my 2004 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 started having problems when starting on cold days. I live In PA and it just started to dip below 40 degrees. When I go to start my vehicle it will crank over longer like its is not getting fuel or something else. It will eventually start and when I turn it off quickly it will start up fine or after it is warm it will start up normal. When the vehicle sits for some hours and its cold outside it will have trouble starting again. The battery is fine had it tested and cca are just below what the norm is for the battery. Today the temperature was 52 and the vehicle started up just fine with no hesitation or prolonged start.
Another thing that happens when its cold out is right after you put the vehicle in drive and give it gas to start moving it will chug a couple of times before it will have full power then its fine. This has only been happening in the winter. I didn't have any problems with the chugging in the summer.
My F-150 ac shuts down when air temp reaches above 80 degrees. The freon has been checked, the compressor clutch cycling switch & high pressure switch have been replaced with no effect.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1979 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U XLT, 4WD 6.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl that I'm trying to put A/C back in. The truck had factory air, but the evaporator is the only original part in this setup (along with the controls inside the cab on the dashboard).
The new compressor is working. All the pressures look good (the low side is around 35 to 40). But we're finding that the air out of the vents is only dropping 20 degrees max. We've checked to see if the blend door was not working and it was getting heat from the heater core. We blocked off the heater core completely with the same results. It just doesn't seem to be getting cool enough. The large fittings on the firewall should be cold (maybe 40 degrees), but it's only cooling to about 79 degrees, about a 15 degree drop.
We cannot see into the evaporator box to see if there is an expansion valve in the system, but we did not put an expansion valve in with the new system we put on.
When driving cool it runs great but as soon as temp gets to 205 degrees and idling, it start to bog down and shouts off. When engine cools it will start right up. It has a rubber gas line that feels very warm, we put a sleeve over rubber hose and didn't work.
View 18 RepliesMy Mustang GT pings when accelerating up a grade of at least 3 degrees, beyond 40MPH. The pinging is reduced when I burn premium fuel, but it nevertheless still pings. I cannot drive beyond 50MPH over mountainous roads due to loud pinging which I am afraid will damage the engine. I have replaced the O2 sensors which were generating codes. No mechanic whom I have approached can tell me definitively how to eliminate the pinging. Otherwise, the engine, with its 144,00 milers runs perfectly.
View 5 RepliesWhat EOT temp should the fan clutch kick on at? I've never heard it kick on until a recent trip. It seems to go on about 228 degrees EOT and keeps the EOT below about 232 degrees.
At slow speeds I've found that the trans will heat up to this temp too. I assume because the radiator cooler is at that temp an there's not enough air flow for the air cooler to cool it down much?
Having issue with heat only working when the temp is at 90? I turn it down one click 85 and it goes cold?
View 3 RepliesMy '03 Ranger started making a knocking noise last summer after 15 minutes of driving but only when the temp. outside is over 80 degrees or so. It stopped during the cold months but has resumed this summer. It is a low knocking sound and a) the vehicle must be moving, b) it has to have been moving for 15 minutes or so and c) it must be over 80 degrees outside. I can feel it under my feet and thru the steering wheel but mechanics say that they don't hear it and can't find it because they are getting into the vehicle after it has had a couple of minutes to cool down. Mechanics tell me that they have checked the universal joint and that it is fine. I need a brave mechanic to drive along side of me in another vehicle, going 45 miles per hour for 15 minutes and then they need to jump over into the driver's side and take over the wheel (like in the movies) so that maybe we can find what is making the noise. It makes this noise whether the vehicle is in 4wd or 2wd or the A/C is on or not.
View 8 RepliesThe AC in my F-150 Super crew Lariat 5.4 was just charged and works fine until the temp reaches ninety degrees, then it blows hot. What this could be?
View 6 RepliesOne for the "books"! Days ago tried to start her up...nothing. Engine turned like crazy but wouldn't run. Sounded just like it sounded when the fuel pump in the tank went out. Anyways, getting plenty of fuel, getting spark from the coil. Figured the ignition module was bad. Took it to Autozone and checked it...was good. Figure it was the pick up coil so bought one. Pulled Distributor, Ford didn't drill hole for the roll pin all the way through. Decided to drill it out, broke 3 bits. Bought new Distributor and installed. Crankshaft setting on 10 degrees BTDC. Rotor is pointing straight at #1 terminal. Getting air, fuel, and spark...cranks but wont start! Changed ignition switch under the steering column 5 years ago, have never changed the key and tumbler. When i turn the key gas gauge works. All my stuff works...lights, heater, horn, signals. cd player. All fuses and relays working. Computer is grounded.
View 2 Replies'1999 F150, 5.4L, 85K miles ....
Fuel pump failed last year, had it replaced. Ran fine for a week or 2, then one day went into limp-home mode. Mech replace fuel pump relay, again ran fine for a month or so. Now when the ambient temp gets above 80F or so (yeah, it has already this year - I'm in Central TX), engine at full op temp, I'm experiencing some sort of heat-soak issue. Engine runs fine when cold, and at normal op temps on the road, but if it is parked for 15 - 20 minutes then restarted, the idle goes all funky - nearly dies, surges, etc. for a minute or 2, and then it seems ok.
I would go back to the same mech, but he had to close his shop due to health issues, so I'd like to see if I can resolve this. So, it is definitely heat-triggered, and "seems" like a fuel issue, but of course it could be some electrical contact having difficulty above a certain temp.
I have long been having troubles with white smoke at startup, even when its 90 degrees out. Long story short I've got new glowplugs, GPR, UVCHs, valve cover gaskets, injectors, turbo, valve seals, valve springs, and HPOP all within the last year. Most of those parts were needed, some maybe not so much. After installing injectors things started getting worse, whether they're related or not I'm not sure yet. I pulled passenger side valve cover off again in an attempt to figure something out and heard this coming out of the intake spider.
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The strange thing is it goes away when it warms up. I should also note the reason I started with the passenger side is because I did a compression test and this side had the lowest readings, with #5 being 270 psi. I disconnected each injector one at a time on the passenger side to see if it made a difference while running but didn't really notice a difference. Am I looking at a motor rebuild, or at the very least a head removal?
I have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....