Ford Excursion :: V10 Threw Fault Code - Dash Dim When Headlights Turned On
Aug 9, 2012
I got a check eng light and read the codes. Cam sensor, misfire 5 & 8. Replaced cam sensor. Got light twice more. Cam sensor. Cleared codes, now no light but, I lost bottom & mid range HP at a steady decline. Run like a scalded dog on top end. Replaced fuel filter on frame rail & air filter. No cure. Noticed dash dim when headlights turned on. Pulled pos battery cable engine died. Replaced alt old one tested good. Drove to parking spot no power damn near couldn't pull it self. Turned off wouldn't start. Before I turned off it would rev up perfect just no power to move. Had a camed up sound at an idle like a slight miss. No fault codes present. Ford claims crank sensor. Haven't replaced that yet. Have fuel in fuel rails. 10 coils could not have lost spark at once. Any part other than crank sensor?
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The cruise control and the overdrive off dash lights go out when I turn on the headlights. The cruse control and overdrive still work but the dash lights are not lit. It is a 95 4door explorer.
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Had the Ex (2000 Limited V10 134K) about a month now, doing some reading in the FTE, saw the thread about wire chaffing in the steering column related to the gear shift selector and overdrive. Well, everything else has been chaffed on this truck so far I figured I better look at that too. They are chaffed right at the bottom of the base of the selector, not much wire to work with, might just replace.
I put everything back together and no issues. The next morning, I drove it and no issues until at work, put it in reverse (to park next to the bosses pretty new red Titan, picked that up from You Might Drive and Ex If) and the starter engaged. Got it parked, starter playing with switches for it to repeat, found that with the keys in my hand and turning on the headlight switch on (park or headlight position) the engine would start turning over, turn the key on and the headlights on and the EX starts, started stayed engaged until headlights are turned back off. Reverse only engaged the starter when the engine was running, when not running neutral safety switch kicked in telling me it works.
Searches had me reading in other in another place that there are wires that go from the headlight switch to the steering column specifically heavier guage blue wire with red or pink stripe "I think".
So last night I took the column covers back off and started chasing wires. As I was moving wires looking for the short I kept turning the light switch on and off as I wanted to know if and when I found the short. Evidently, I found it because the headlight switch and reverse stopped engaging the starter. I never did find the actual short. So the chipmunk has been chased from my wood pile but for how long?
I left everything in the column until the problem went away so to speak. I took the turn signal selector out inspected both connectors and wires and went about 6 inches back into the wiring harness, I found nothing, the turn signal selector had no impact on the started engaging.
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Finally got back home and I have the TBC Fault occasionally pop up on the dash and sometimes the C2803 fault code (Brake Pressure Transducer Sense Circuit Failure). Both have happened without the trailer connected. Is it the OEM brake controller? Or possibly the sensor at the base of the Brake Master Cylinder?
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Until about a week ago, when I turned my headlights on, the icon (light bulb) appeared on the dash. Out of the blue, it doesn't. Any clue why? (High beam icon still appears).
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I checked the fuel pressure it was good. Replaced the crank sensor behind the starter but that did not solve the problem. Replaced the Ignition control module (its located under the coil packs) and all is well now. The car never threw a code.
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I just bought an 03 Excursion 3 months ago and it has 104,000+ miles on it. I was driving to the lake to do a little night fishing this past Saturday. It ran fine up to me parking the truck to unstrap my boat. I noticed it start to idle rough and thought nothing of it. Started to back the boat down the ramp and got almost all the way to the water and it died. It restarted immediately but died several times trying to make it back up the ramp (with boat still in tow). No service engine light or anything for about an hour or so. Thought maybe I had gotten hold of some bad gas so I put in a bottle of sea foam and gas dry with no change to how it ran. Made it back home and the next day tried starting it again and it still idled rough and would die when put in gear. A friend brought over a code reader and got a P0149 which I've learned is a fuel timing error. Could it be the fuel pump or the solenoid on the fuel pump?
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I have have been getting a p0671 fault code every time I start my truck now that its cold. If I clear it and its warm it doesn't retrigger at least until it sits overnight again. Is this likely to be that the Glow Plug needs replacing on the #1 cylinder? Autolite Glow Plug is only $20 or so. Mechanic is recommending changing the bank and the harness but I'd rather just do the one GP myself if possible. I see on here that the valve cover has to come off. Which side is #1 on and do I need any gaskets etc? How big a job is it to remove the valve cover? I'd go and look myself but its cold out ...
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When I turn on the headlights of my 2010 the dash backlight dims considerably. It becomes difficult to see/read when the sun hits it just right...especially wearing polarized sunglasses. I have the dimmer switch set all the way high. Is there a way to increase the backlighting or have it not dim as much with the headlights on?
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After having the car "plugged in", it appears that one of the intake manifold swirl flaps isn't always returning to it's lower stop (fault P1018). The mechanic suggested that the actuator arm may be caked in debris, and that cleaning it and manually working it a few times should fix the problem?
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Our 2.0T (2008 Passat Komfort Wagon) with 70K miles is sitting in a mall parking lot and won't turn over. The lights and accessories all function just fine, and don't change/benefit from a battery jump. DRLs and all dash indicators light up like normal.
We push in the key fob and absolutely nothing happens. No error messages or anything. I tried a half dozen times; no change. Two things to know:
1) The car is under a recall for defective Electronic Steering Column Lock. I understand this can invoke the immobilizer? Car does seem immobilized. (I hadn't gotten the car in for the recall.)
2) The car recently ran rough and threw an Emissions system code. I hadn't gotten that code read, yet, but the roughness sorted itself out. I think this is unrelated and may be a case of "car wash syndrome" as my wife and son occasionally run the car for a minute or less to move it from the driveway to the street.
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For some time I have engine light on in dash. I bought OBD scan tool and I'm using OBD Auto Doctor.
I had this engine light on for some time. It come on and goes off comes on etc.
So this is the fault - P1272
I didn't find much info about this code. There are two reading about this code. Either it's something to do with fuel pump pressure or something to do with one of the cylinders.
Car Toyota Yaris 1,4D 2006
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Sitting in my living room I noticed that suddenly my headlights on my 97 Subaru ob turned on. First thought was someone was stealing my pos. Knife in hand I went to investigate. No one there. The keys were in the car, in the off position. The headlights all of a sudden turned off. I noticed that the dash lights were flickering on and off. I removed the keys yet the dash lights remained on. Not wanting my battery drained I disconnected the positive cable, which obviously corrected the issue for the time being. When I was disconnecting the battery I heard a mechanical whirring noise coming from the passenger side of the car just behind the headlight. Have never heard this noise before. NOT the intake fan or the AC. Did not investigate extensively due to darkness, wind and rain.
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I have a 2002 Saab 9-5 with a 3.0L turbo with 125k miles. The cruise control works fantastic UNLESS the headlights are on... huh??
I can replicate 100% of the time. It is getting dark earlier now - and my wife will not drive it anymore to work (35 miles) without the cruise control working.
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Got a new 2008 F150 King Ranch. Great running truck with a lot of "stuff". But now the bad. Got about 5 blocks from the dealer and the tire comes on the dash. Sure enough the rear drivers side tire is getting low. 1st thought I'd load it with some Slime but decided to take it to a tire store as we found a screw stuck in the tread. Turns out the screw was too far out on the tread to be patched.
I bought a new tire instead of going after a plug kit and driving a few more miles before replacing all tires. Drove home. Went for a short drive today and now the TPMS fault is showing on the dash. Little yellow tire blinking. Finally got home and checked all the tires. The lowest was the front drivers side at about 38 PSI. So did the tire store mess up my TPMS system or is something else going on?
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My f250 was parked this winter to get work done. I had put a new exhaust on and while crawling on the engine bay it had kicked the fuel reset by the passengers kick panel. After pressing that button the truck would not start and threw FICM codes. (Power low to FICM) and my Scanguageii had said that power was very low (27 volts) during cranking. I sent the FICM to FICMrepair.com. Today I had put the FICM back into the truck and went to start it. I cycled the plugs 3 times and started on the 4th. The truck did not start after this and had thrown more ficm codes. What it could be?
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My 06 f150 v6 auto died on the way to work last night. It said trans fault on the dash. The trans has been shifting fine no slipping no hard shifts. The trans has 113k I replaced the motor and it has 57k. Both have been working great until last night. I plugged my scanner up it had a bunch of codes so I cleared them and done a koeo test and got 10 codes.
P0141
P0161
P0740
P0743
P0748
P0750
P0753
P0755
P0758
P0962
With the key in the on position the truck was showing 27.3 psi on fuel.
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Have a Gage fault and tow haul flashing on the dash have no clue what is going on?
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The truck has a 300 straight 6 and runs pretty good until you turn the headlights on or anything that uses current for that matter ie. Radio , Fan ect. But is worst with lights. Just got the truck last week and can't seem to figure this one out.
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I have a 2003 F350 SD FWD Dually With 4.10 Axle Ratio. I'm looking for some front rotors and pads and I'm looking for recommendations. I tow a 44' Goose neck racing trailer on a regular basis so I dont want autozone crap rotors that are going to warp in a few thousand miles. I was on rockauto.com, they have Wagner, Bendix, Motocraft, Powerstop, etc etc. I thought maybe those Powerstop drilled and slotted looked interesting, but I dont know much about them.
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After replacing my battery cables (Pos and Ground),My Truck stalls every time I turn on the headlights. The truck stays running with the parking lights on or if no lights on at all. Could I have mixed up the 2 positive accessory wires?
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