Ford Excursion :: V10 Starts Missing From Idle Through To 80 MPH - Code P0358
Jun 16, 2017
Had a new V10 Gas engine put in the Ex about three years ago and Been running like a CHAMP....UNTIL.....I'm Driving Back from Halliburton today and my Excursion starts Missing from Idle through to 80mph.. Finally threw an SES Light pulled into the local Auto Parts store and they ran Diagnostic on it and stated P0358... Now I know where to start looking...Only thing is I don't know exactly which one ... What's a good process to eliminate each COP to find the culprit does the #8 at the end designate what cylinder is misfiring?
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The X has been running great, well good enough, lately with no issues. I left work the other morning, and apparently the X didn't want to wake up that early. As soon as I started it up, the check engine light came on and it was running like crap. Had a bad hesitation all the way home. It feels like it is misfiring, but only under load. It doesn't do it if I brake torque it or Rev it up. Only while driving.
The codes I am getting are in the P035x family (typed that way for future searches). P0353 and P0358 are the codes I am getting (along with 4x4 codes for the vacuum solenoid...but that's the solution to other problems not relevant to this!). Being codes for the primary circuit, I popped the hood and checked out the connectors. Both connectors are fine, and tightly connected. I did notice however that cylinders 3 and 8 have other than OEM coil packs on them. These are the only 2 cylinders with those coil packs (they are white and the other 8 cylinders have black coils).
I don't want to just throw parts at it, and I'm not getting a hard miss fire code, just the 2 above. I might try to swap the coils with other cylinders tonight and see if the codes move to those cylinders. It has run like this a few times, but never set a code, and turning it off and back on has "fixed"this in the past.
And just for complete disclosure, while looking for where I saved a password, I found notes from August last year where I pulled codes, and these two codes were present then, with a cylinder 7 hard miss fire code. I replaced the c7 coil with motorcraft cleared the codes, and P0353 and P0358 went away and I haven't seen them since. The plugs are brand new and only have about 1000 miles on them (changed them in September when repairing the misfire and I don't drive it much).
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2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
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I just bought an 03 Excursion 3 months ago and it has 104,000+ miles on it. I was driving to the lake to do a little night fishing this past Saturday. It ran fine up to me parking the truck to unstrap my boat. I noticed it start to idle rough and thought nothing of it. Started to back the boat down the ramp and got almost all the way to the water and it died. It restarted immediately but died several times trying to make it back up the ramp (with boat still in tow). No service engine light or anything for about an hour or so. Thought maybe I had gotten hold of some bad gas so I put in a bottle of sea foam and gas dry with no change to how it ran. Made it back home and the next day tried starting it again and it still idled rough and would die when put in gear. A friend brought over a code reader and got a P0149 which I've learned is a fuel timing error. Could it be the fuel pump or the solenoid on the fuel pump?
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I recently bought a 00 Excursion v10 2wd everything looked right no major problems. I noticed it has a rough idle and i thought it could be the EGR i went under the hood and there's no EGR in sight. I plugged the OBD reader to see if it would give any codes since the there was no check engine light on and wanted wanted to make sure it worked, It showed a P0304 code its Cyl4 misfire i checked plugs/coils and i noticed there's a little insert inside Cyl4 plugs hole in the head that it has the plug screwed on. I decided to change all the plugs and the coils and i still have the rough idle and code i can hear a ticking noise around the engine in the passenger side.
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I have a 1984 BMW 318i. When it gets to 3.5-4K rpm, it starts to miss and the tachometer starts to jump. What's wrong with it?
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My truck is a 2003 f250 / 2wd automatic, 7.3 powerstroke, 284000 well maintained miles.
Just last week I sprug a large oil leak and had to replace the hoop outlet o rings..problem solved. This week I can drive 15-20 miles on the freeway and the truck starts to act like ota running out of fuel. Bogs down to 40mph then starts missing. I pull over, and when revving I have un burnt fuel and oil smoking out of my tailpipe. I let it sit for 5-10 minutes and it will be fine for the rest of the drive and this happens intermittently, there is no pattern.
The truck has a ton of power, starts great hot or cold. I did a ton of research and found a IPR could possibly cause this, as could plugged screens in the fuel pickup. Then I read about all the injector harness issues but I don't think that I my issue.
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I've installed a iPod adapter to my Ex's factory 6CD head unit..but I'm thinking I might like to upgrade to one of the Andriod units.
I have seen that there are some that "clip in" like the factory radio...but I'm also wanting to avoid having to trim the dash bezel.
So...is there one may that will slip in from the front like.a factory unit?
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I purchased an '03 V10 Excursion back in '13 with about 145000 miles on it. I've added another 30,000 in the last year and a half. It's been good but has started missing and has gotten to the point where it will shut off at times and I don't know how to troubleshoot it. The MIL has never lit from the missing. Twice after it cut off the MIL was lit with a speed sensor error.
I've purchased a BAFX Products Bluetooth OBD2 interface and I've tried a couple of different Android apps with it, right now I'm using Torque Pro. It says it's an OBD I system which I saw references to in the "Why your MIL doesn't turn on" thread. I'm seen references to using Mode 6, but everything I've read seems to indicate that's an OBD II feature.
The missing gets better and worse. Some days it will seem to be fine and then other days I have to keep it rev'ed up to keep it from dying while stopping for a red light.
When it dies, it dies while stopped in drive or reverse. It has also died a couple of times while moving in reverse while connected to a 3,500lb trailer. Every time it's died it has started right back up.
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I was looking around under the hood and I'm pretty sure I'm missing a bolt and maybe a nut too. The bolt hold the fuel line I think. Is there supposed to be a nut holding the fan shroud on here?
I know I could go to the hardware store and eventually find something that works, but that is a headache and they don't like me test fitting until I find the right size. What is part number?
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it's missing at an idle and it acts like it dont wanna take gas but once you get it going on the road it does good. the motor is a remanufacture motor it's only got 6,000 miles, new coils, plugs and wires, cam sensor, crank sensor, idle air control, mass air flow,and temp switch.
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Last night and this morning we had flooding rains here and the excursion was sitting outside in it.
Later this afternoon, I went to pull it up a little to get a motorcycle ouut of the garage, and it started, but very roughly. Check engine light on, would idle at times, and sometimes would die on its own or when I put it in drive. The OD light on the gear shift was also flashing.
Didn't see any pools of water in the engine compartment, around the firewall or anything that would show water had gotten into some electrical areas of the truck.
My OBD reader isn't reading the diagnostics plug for some reason, im gonna go buy one here in a minute.
Plugs, boots, COPS?....why the hell the OD light flashing when in park? Start removing, inspecting, replacing or tow it to the dealer?
2002 Limited, V10, 190k miles, 1-owner, 6 pages of carfax dealer service reports.
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2011 XLT 5.0 Coyote. Truck has a performance problem - it's missing almost unnoticeable at idle, but it's obvious (if you care to notice) when you hold the throttle barely open. Idle seems smooth, but if I hold it at about 1500 rpms, it most clearly and definitely is missing.
However, since there are "no codes" and since mode shows "no misfires". This really manifests itself when I'm towing a 6k pound trailer and the truck can't pull it up a 2% grade unless I drop it into 3rd gear. Of course, if I drive it like a race car it's a beast. But I can't leave rubber at every red light, especially when towing.
Fuel trims look fine (ST bounces between -4 to +4, LT sits right at +0.5). Cleaned the TB. Cleaned the MAF. Brand new Motorcraft plugs gapped at .045. CHT sensors read 205 on one bank and 198 on the other. Coolant sensor seems find. Haven't done a voltage test, but TPS data in the OBD seems smooth.
How to test the coil packs (neither does Ford). They want me to replace all 8, but I'm not doing that unless I can see real evidence a coil pack is bad.
I'm no novice however I'm losing my mind that "everything is normal" yet the truck so clearly has a problem. This has been going on for months and I'm at my wits end.
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I own a 1987 Mitsubishi Montero 2-door, 4x4, vin # JA7FJ23F9HJO30272 with a 5 speed manual transmission. It's powered by a family 2.6 T2FFC3 engine with CID 1.55.987.
My problem occurs quite sporadically, sometimes after driving 100 miles or so. Then, the engine starts missing as if you were turning the ignition off and on very quickly. Most often I have to limp back home by getting spurts of acceleration along with skipping.
Some technicians say the bushings are worn out in the distributors shaft housing and some other technicians state it may be a carburation problem. However, I am desperate for a solution to solve my problem, and possibly better my fuel economy to more than 12+/- miles per gallon.
Is this a common problem of these vehicles with high mileage? Do you have a solution to resolve my problem? My vehicle has 132,059 miles as of this writing.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 started missing the other night. Great loss of power, but made it home. Rough idle, "clacky". Next morning, did the following in order: 1) Pulled the fuel filter inspected, 2) removed all fuel from the bowl 3) replaced bowl fuel with Seafoam 4) installed new filter (my typical procedure). Without starting, I then 5) removed HPOP oil from reservoir and 6) filled with fresh oil using exact amount removed as a gauge for what to replace.
Started, idle smooth for a time. Increased rpm by depressing accelerator. Began running rougher and rougher accompanied by white smoke. Finally quit and would not restart. Cranking easily, tachometer showing RPM during crank. Suspected no fuel getting to fuel bowl. 7) Drained fuel bowl using valve on back of bowl. 8) Turned ignition to "on" to get fuel pump to run 9) removed new filter, no fuel in bowl 10) With fuel filter out of the bowl, removed fuel filter and quickly cycled the ignition to "on" and back off -- no fuel entered the bowl. 11) Removed leads from fuel pump. 12) Checked voltage across leads as ignition cycled to "on": 6.5 volts. 13) Checked fuel pump fuse (20A Maxi fuse in location 112 -- BLOWN!) 14) Replaced fuse, performed voltage test: 11.55 volts 15) Checked battery voltage: 12.44Volts.
So, with all that, how in the world does the fuel pump get 6.5 volts with the fuse blown? I looked closely at the fuse and there was no slag or connection in the element. Today I have pulled the 9-pin and 42-pin connections on the valve covers as well as the connectors to the glow plug relay module (used on Ex's) to inspect wires and connections. All looked fine. I plan to us some LP5 electro contact cleaner to clean all the connections and put some electrical grease on the connections, but the big question is where did that 6.5V come from with the fuse blown. I plan to pull the fuse and do the same test to see if the 6.5V is still there.
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I have 2002 f150, fx4, ext cab, 110000miles 5.4 automatic truck, i just replaced my spark plugs, it still have a little miss, thought spark plugs will resolve but its the same, im wondering if i should change O2 sensors? clean EGR Valve? IAC valve? i am not getting good gas mileage and maybe its this missfire or something, its runs good without any problems, just this slight miss makes me think if its the cause to bad MPG.
I tried to find threads with pictures of how to change O2, how to clean EGR, and IAC, i remember seeing these threads but cant find em. And you think these three things will resolve my MPG and the slight miss?
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I have a weird intermittent problem. Sometimes when I start my explorer it will idle down and die immediately, I restart and it will idle about 400-600 really rough, sounds like it is missing. When I drive it it is jerky and the acceleration is sluggish but after I get it up to about 20 mph it clears out and then drives and idles fine until I shut it down. Plus these things only happen about every third time (on average) that I drive it. Lastly it's not giving me any codes. What this could be?
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1994 Maxima SE 5 speed manual with 178k runs great when engine is cold, then a cylinder starts missing. Symptom is worse in low gears. Then, miles and miles without a miss. Replaced rear ignition coil and it seemed to fix the problem... for about 20 miles, then it started missing again. And stops missing… for miles.
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My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
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My 06 f150 5.4 3v has developed this miss in the last 1000 miles which is very annoying and fuel consuming. Its most noticeable at idle where the engine quivers and at highway rpms where it will start to vibrate when being slightly worked. I have already changed the cops and plugs, and there are no codes coming up.
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Have a p0401 code which I need to diagnose and solve. However, I don't believe the symptoms are indicative of the EGR system. Its a 1999 4.6L auto approximately 200k miles. Truck runs fine until it warms up, and then occasionally it begins to act like its missing under load. steady state on the freeway it may have an occasional miss, but put a load on the motor and the miss becomes real bad. This doesn't seem to me to be symptomatic of a P0401 code, but I don't really understand the EGR system enough to be sure. Searching on the forums for other p0401 codes doesn't seem to have the same symptoms.
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