Ford Excursion :: V10 Running Hot During Highway Driving
Jun 9, 2014
My truck has been running hot during highway driving. As long as I'm driving around town I don't have an issue. Truck has run around 199 degrees in Florida summer weather since I got it. Pulling this info from torque. At this temp the dial hits the gauge at about the 1/3 Mark. On the highway the dial will jump up to about 8/10th with a torque reading of 203 degrees. Pegging out with temp reaching as high as 210.
As soon as I pull over or even get off the interstate and continue to drive, temps come back down. Not sure what the issue is here. in the last year I have replaced the thermostat with a failsafe thermostat that if I recall was a 190. I also replaced the plastic heater control valve. I'm not really sure where to go here. My suspension is the water pump, or belt slip. I replaced the power steering pump this winter. I suppose maybe I didn't get the puppy lined up perfectly, but not sure if that would cause an issue like this.
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I have a 2000 excursion 6.8l v10 4x4. While driving on the highway and reaching 80mph, the suv starts making this grinding sound like it's trying to get into gear. The SUV starts to shake. when i drive at a lower speed it goes away. it doesn't make the grinding sound while driving on back roads. What could it be?
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This weekend I am planning to do some major repairs to my X, she is a 2004, Limited, 4X4, 6.0 PSD with about 130K. I am planning to replace my wheel bearings, axel seals, and upper and lower ball joints. Some of these are just maintenance items that I will be replacing since I am already there and others are in hopes of eliminating the hum I am experiencing at highway speeds.
I am looking to purchase the Moog ball joints along with the wheel bearings (which I believe is my noise maker). I am going to replace the axel shaft seals because the right side was leaking when I purchased the X in August 2013. I might even change the front brake pads since they will be removed at the same time, all depends how worn they are.
What else should be replaced?
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I have a 1994 F-250 that we have changed the thermostat, radiator, water pump, cap, hoses, and installed a spring fan. New heads. Hot heat in the heater. It runs normal at highway speed for around 10 or 12 miles and gets hot. pull up and idle and the temp retracts. Even the block has been blown thru. What could possibly be the problem?
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This is on an 04 Excursion, 4x4, 6.0 SPD. I have started experiencing a vibration at highway speed, 60-70 mph. After 70 it smooths out a little but still noticeable. I've replaced both rear tires and still have the issue. When I put my foot on the accelerator I can feel it more but as soon as I let off it drops off dramatically. I am thinking u-joints, which will be replaced this evening...
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As the title says the beast died on me yesterday morning going into work.
Situation : 5 F @ 7 Am
1/4 tank of fuel that has been treated
cruising at 70 MPH on the highway using the cruise
Going into work the other day the truck died on me as i cruised along at 70 MPH on cruise, I go to get out of the way of a car. As, I step on the accelerator X falls on its face. I look at the dash and there are no idiot lights on, gauges all look good. I navigate to the shoulder 3 lanes over and park it. As soon as it is in park it dies and will not restart.
I call AAA and sit there waiting for the truck to show up. After about 10 mins I try to start it again it stumbles and dies. 2nd try it fires up and is running rough. I make it to the nearest gas station and fill up. Then I go to the parts store and pick up the 911 fuel treatment and put it in the tank. I also use a scan tool on it and no codes. Truck ran fine after all this.
I go to start it after work, it starts and dies. I start it again and it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders and there is a large puff of smoke out the exhaust which goes away after it is started.
After it warms up it runs and drives fine, no issues! So I looked at my extension cord I plug it into and realize that the timer was bad. New timer and verify it works. Go to start it today and it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Is it possible that the fuel gelled up due to the timer being bad and the block heater not turning on? Or am I missing something?
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Today while coming down the pikes peak hiway we were notified at a brake check point station that both brake lights were out. Upon further inspection I realized that only the left brake light above the cargo doors was working. Does this sound like lights going on the blink a once, or a relay issue? We checked the brake on off switch fuse and it appeared to be good, what to look for at the camp ground.
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I have posted several times about my 03 Ex and it's driveline vibes- mainly highway speed and when slightly on the gas... Took it to a local 4 wheel drive shop that specializes in lifts. They jacked it up and I ran the X up to highway speed with the rear in the air. It was amazing how rough it is, even at 55mph. I hardly feel it in the vehicle at that speed while driving.
Anyway, they felt the vibration but where it is coming from. They said pinion angle looked fine and since I have a retubed driveshaft and rebuilt rear, they ruled that out. The owner has an 04 with a 6 or 8" lift and 37's and seems to know about Excursions.
I then took it to the local Ford dealer and had the service manager drive it. He strongly feels it is gear mesh with the ring and pinion. I am not totally convinced as the rear is quiet, gear wise. For that matter, my slip yoke has quite a bit of torsional slop, likely as much as the backlash on the ring and pinion but the driveshaft shop said that it is acceptable.
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So, on my way home from checking out a house all of a sudden the truck started vibrating when getting on the highway. Then it got worse quickly. So I pulled off at the next exit and pulled into a parking lot, the truck shuddering badly any time I pressed the fuel pedal. Had it towed to my local Ford dealer. I'm thinking torque converter/transmission, but I freely admit I don't know. Here's what I think is pertinent info-
1. I bought it at 84k miles, now 122k. Oil changed every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, coolant every 20k, trans fluid every 20k. Don't kmow what was done first 84k miles before I bought it.
2. Driveshaft rebuilt one year ago. Both fr and rr diff fluids changed a few months ago, along with transfer case fluid.
3. When in park or neutral engine revs perfectly smooth. When placed in gear and fuel is added it starts to shudder, getting worse as revs go up. Does not vary with road speed, only with engine speed and load into transmission.
4. There are no codes at all. All temps were normal. Engine oil and trans fluid level normal.
5. A few months ago when coming home from a trip I suddenly had the same symptoms about 3 miles from home, but not as bad as today. Made it home taking it easy and went to bed. I was exhausted from a long day of driving and when I test drove the truck the next morning to check it out it was smooth as could be, so I thought maybe I imagined it. Symptoms did not reappear until today, a few months and several thousand miles later.
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Windstar 3.8 engine van overheats when driving on the highway. Head gaskets, water pump and thermo has been changed over the last few months.
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This happened a year ago. We got it running after a few minutes, and had the fuel filter changed before continuing on the highway again. It ran fine for the remaining 2 hours of the trip. I looked online and saw this as an issue, but no one knows why. It was suggested to take a break after 2 hours, and that has worked until 2 days ago, when it stalled an hour after the break, then restarted after some time and made it the next 1 1/2 hours home no problem. Each time it stalled, the air temp had been in the high 90's.
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I recently bought a 1997 Ford Taurus. It ran fine when I got it but the third time I drove it, it started acting up. I was driving down the highway and I noticed it was missing a little bit. Then about 10 minutes later it started not being able to keep up speed. It just seemed to kinda bog down or something when I gave it more gas. The longer I drove the slower it would go until it eventually stopped. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was a cam sensor and cam synchronizer or something like that. When that didn't fix it he said it was the fuel pump and filter, which didn't work either. Took it to another and he said to try changing spark plugs and then coil pack after that didn't work. It runs fine when I first start the car but the more I push the accelerator the faster it starts bogging down.
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So today I was driving down the highway and my engine shut off. No sputter or any thing I had just filled the tank. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. It's been hitting a dead spot at around 3000 rpm like its not getting enough fuel or something. Right now I'm thinking it's an ipr valve but would like to know if what was the cause and how did you fix it...
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When I purchased my 2005 Limited 6.0l I just assumed it had the factory gears in it which are 3.73s but I noticed the other day that my speedo is pretty much bang on with the 35" tires. So, that got me to thinking maybe they've been replaced already. It runs right around 2000rpm at 70mph.
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What would cause the running lights to not turn off? The door ajar light is not lighting up so would it be safe to assume that it isn't a door ajar problem? The interior lights are on as well but I have already done the interior light switch mod and changed them to LEDS so my battery draw will be a lot less. The running board lights do turn off after about 45 minutes though.
My overhead console backlights do not turn on and the rearview mirror isn't lit either since last week but I do not know if the issues are related. The Lie O meter still works fine though. What fuse it is? I would like to pull it till I get this resolved.
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2000 Ford Excursion - ac keeps running after the car is turned off and the key is removed. Air is actually coming out the vents!!! My wife can turn the ac off with the console switch. Nothing else is running
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My 1990 mustang 5.0 LX has a very consistent stalling problem when travelling long distance on the highway at a good speed. After 2 hours of driving highway speeds and then pulling off the highway, the car stalls after I brake or stop at a light. I don't know why this seems braking related, but not sure. I then sit and crank the motor and it cranks for a bit and starts right up. I think it's fuel, but now sure yet.
Here's what I have done:1. Tune-up: plugs, wires, cap, rotor2. new fuel pressure regulator3. new fuel filter4. new fuel cap5. Checked for vacuum leaks (none found)
It seems to not happen when the gas tank is low, but I can't swear to it.
I'm going to run a fuel pressure gauge to the futhel rail and see if I can catch the drop off of fuel pressure when it occurs. Also, I noticed that the gas cap does not hiss when I unscrew it at any point in time.
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My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 (139,XXX miles) V6 3.0, recently quit on me while driving on the highway. It will no longer start. I spoke to a mechanic and he informed me to fill the radiator (which was empty) and attempt to start the truck with the radiator cap off. He said that if radiator fluid gushed out then the engine is blown. Is this necessarily the only cause, that my engine is in fact blown.
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As I'm driving down the highway my steering wheel tends to shake a little bit. My tires are fine but are offly loud . They are balanced and all but just sound loud u can hear them rolling inside the cab sounds maybe like if I had mud tires but I don't they are all terrains. . I was told maybe the bearings but I don't know.
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Turbo is dead. I knew this day was coming. It died driving down the highway tonight at 55 MPH. Plenty of power since I left the office, all of a sudden the tone of the engine changed to a 6.0L and there was no power at my disposal.
Nursed it home keeping an eye on EGT's and let it soak while I ate supper.
Started it up, let it idle for a minute and tried a few revs but no boost and no turbo whistle.
Garage actually had a very slight haze to it after the test revs so something is broken.
DPF shouldn't be allowing any type of smoke to pass.
Bummer. Now I need a rental so I can get to the airport. Murphy's law has been in effect all day between software upgrades (IT stuff) and now my truck.
No CEL (this is shocking to me) but I found : P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Performance
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I just got back from a trip across the state to see the Miami boat show! Truck was running just fine on the trip over, EOT/ECT delta around 9* (seems a little high to me, Im hoping because im running 35's, but can someone back me up on this?)
On the trip back, cruising at 70, I noticed the check engine light went on... I didn't have it under heavy throttle or obscure circumstances... My ScanGauge 2 showed that I had a P0299, which as Ive read means something relating to underboost?
I cleared the code. And the CEL never showed again in the last 100 miles... Could this just be a quirk? Or should I be more worried about it?
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