Ford Excursion :: V10 Hesitating After Starting - IAC Valve?
Jun 25, 2011
Quite a few posts on this on the V10 forum. Mine Ex has been hesitating after starting (bad after a few days of no use) so I took off the old one and put on a new one. I'll clean up the old one and use it as a backup. Best to lay your body on old carpet on top of the engine, cause this value is right under the windshield, behind the air intake. Took about an hour with some swearing involved. DO NOT DROP tools, screws, gaskets, etc!
First few pics of where it's at .....
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My son noticed the other day that his 2008 Accent hesitates or seems to hesitate when the A/C is on. We have driven it without the A/C on and the car drives like always, no hesitation feeling.
When the A/C is on it seems like it looses power for a split second. I have driven it too and it seems like when the A/C comes on. We have had this car since new and just gave it to him for college transportation so I know this is not normal.
Did notice that the belts are starting to crack and will replace these next weekend but don't think that is it. Not sure if the A/C compressor is starting to go or something else.
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I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
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My daughter's 2004 Camry V6 has been hesitating when starting from a stationary position or when accelerating after slowing down. Dealer has been having hard time identifying cause but thinks it is an oxygen sensor. Had one sensor replaced last fall when light came on. Tech Rep says there are four sensors. At least one is bad but the other two sensors may also be bad. Is there really four oxygen sensors in the 2004 Camry? Would this cause the hesitation when accelerating?
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My 1997 Toyota Corolla has recently began hesitating when starting. When I turn the ignition, her idle seems normal, but then goes 'down' and it feels like she's going to die. But then the idle/revs go back up and she's fine. However within the past week, she dies when starting (usually the first start or two of the day). She turns over, but then 'fizzles out' and dies. However when she does this, a small tap on the gas pedal revs her up.
This does not occur every time I start her. In fact the more I use her throughout the day, it seems she starts normal. There are no issues with RPMs/Idling when driving.
I've taken her to two mechanics and they could find nothing. Fuel pump, fuel line, throttle body, etc. All fine. When hooked up on the computer the only thing that showed a slight reading is the idle air control valve. But they can't be sure that's the problem.
Of course she hasn't died for the mechanics, just me as it's sporadic.
When I turned her on today she didn't die in the morning like she has all week, however the idle was so low that we were waiting for her to die. Slowly the revs picked up and she was fine!
I put fuel injector cleaner in a few days ago and got an oil change yesterday. That's it.
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I tried starting up the Ex last night and it would not stay running unless I pressed on the gas and once I let go of the gas it would die. It had been pretty cold in Austin the last few days and I hadn't driven the Ex since Sunday.
So today I went to start it just now after it warmed up pretty good and the sun has been out. It would not start on key crank alone, I had to hit the gas but once I hit the gas it would stay running so I left it running for a few minutes then turned it off then waited a few minutes and turned it back on with the key alone and now it starts without needing to press the gas!
Is this just a product of the cold weather, was the IAC Valve froze stuck? Is that something I'd never have to worry about in the summer?
Should I clean the IAC? If so what cleaner recommended? Should I replace it? Will happen again after a cleaning?
I was super bummed when it would not start last night but I'm glad it's running again! I'm sure towing this beast would be expensive if I got stranded somewhere else but home.
In my searching for this problem I found a guy with a different car who said he had to keep both feet on the gas and brake (which was dangerous he said) but was the only way to get it home without paying for a tow truck.
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I am getting an error code of 1201. Is this the ERG valve? How do I change out? Looking for Pictures or diagram?
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While diagnosing a problem with my rear AC not working, I pulled the rear plenum apart. I noticed the rear heater coil was really hot even though I did not turn the heat on at all that day.
I suspect a bad heater control valve. The one that stops hot coolant from going to the core when the AC is on. I have manual temp controls so I assumen it is vacuum controlled. All data does not give me a location or vacuum routing specs for the valve so I am asking here.
1) Where do I find the heater control valve?
2) Does it shut off the coolant to both the front and rear heater cores or just the front?
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Have had my Excursion for a few weeks now. Took it to the dealer for some maintenance on the brakes. Had them do oil and fuel filters while it was there. Dealer calls to tell me that the water drain valve had broken off when they tried to drain water and the needed to replace the housing. Picked it up today and this is what they found when they pulled off that assembly...
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My Ex is throwing a P1451 Canister Vent Purge valve issue. Is the canister for the Ex hidden on the frame above the gas tank? I looked around the frame in the back of the truck but am having no luck finding it so I'm guessing ill have to drop the tank to get to it. I've read that wire chafing for this valve could be the problem.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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I was asked these questions tonight, and realized I didn't know the answers. I have "E" load range tyres.
1. Does the Excursion use the metal valve stems like the other super duty's? Are these the press on type? or screw on?
2. What is the Valve Stem size?
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My truck has a 6 o powerstroke. I noticed some coolant loss, which I've been monitoring since I had the truck studded 2 years ago. Today I was looking around trying to find a cause of the coolant loss and I noticed some crusty orange residue on a hose that runs under the coolant reservoir. The hose seems to go behind the valve covers along the firewall to the passenger side through a steel line, and then go in a loop back to itself?
I'm guessing it's for the heater core, but I didn't see where it actually goes into the heater core, or anything else for that matter. It is a molded hose that has one of those crimped transitions into the steel line, so I'm not sure if patching it is an option or if I should look at replacing the whole piece. I'm guessing it's going to be expensive. From the fact that it never failed before, I'm thinking it wasn't originally routed with it touching the valve cover and was just something that happened after having the body off during the stud install.
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I have a 2000 excursion v10 with 270k she is a great truck... but she is not starting. I thought it was the starter relay on the passenger fender bc it will start when you jump It with a wrench. I replace the relay and no luck still not starting. When you turn the key I can hear the relays fire that are in the fuse box but the starter will not fire.
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We have a 2002 Excursion XLT. 7.3 liter diesel. Edge chip.
It started turning over slowly when starting, and before I could take it in, it stopped starting completely. We tried jump starting it, nothing. the batteries seemed okay, so we took the starter down to the auto parts store and had it bench tested. It tested fine. We didn't think it would be the starter, since it is just under two years old. Didn't think the alternator was at fault, since it is a year old.
Purchased a new relay and installed it in the inside fuse box, nothing. We purchased two new batteries. After we dealt with rapidly flashing 'theft' light on the dash, it started up. Thought we had solved the problem. A couple of days later, slow to turn over when starting again. The next morning it wouldn't turn over at all. Tried to bypass all the sensors and relays between the ignition switch and the starter by connecting a wire between battery and starter. Nothing.
Had starter bench tested at a different store. It worked intermittently. Replaced the starter. Nothing. But when we hook up the battery directly to starter with key turned it turns over AND starts. Assume it something in ignition switch or a relay between ignition and starter. Bought a manual, but it doesn't show where to find relays. When I check trouble codes, I have a p1000, a p1260, a p0603, and a p0674.
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I have a 2000 V10 ex. The past couple if days it been giving me some issues while trying to start. At times it will start fine like every truck should, but every now and then I turn the key and it starts to catch but quickly dies. Then it continually turns over. I apply pressure to the gas and it finally catches and runs fine after that. This problem has been getting worse over the past month. Whenever I start it I have to apply gas before turning the key so I know the engine will catch. I've already added fuel treatment and stp to clean fuel pumps but had no luck with that.
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My 2001 Buick Lasebre is not starting properly. I have to pump the gas several times before it will start; then when it is started at low speeds or idle it wants to stall. As long as I can some how keep pushing the gas peddle it wont stall. On the other hand when I am driving at higher speeds, anything above 40 or so it runs perfect. The check engine light was on and shows EGR valve stuck open. I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, fuel filter, and the EGR valve. I had the code cleared and a short while later my check engine light came back on with the exact same reading. I bought this car only a week ago and was not expecting to have to fix a car I just bought and ran fine while test driving it. I have read may different forum that say that it could be anything from my fuel pump to vacuum hoses, to some other sensor.
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Started having trouble with my Excursion 6.0 Diesel stalling after being in tow/hauling a 22' boat. That issue has gone away buy now I start it and run for 20 minutes, turn it off and try to start it again and all it does is turn over. If I let is sit for about 8hrs it will start again. What is going on?
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I have a relatively new to me Excursion. It seems to run well and shift well but recently I've become very aware of a strange hum, thrum, and vibration in the floor boards. The sound and vibration have a definite cadence/pulse.
Here is what I have observed trying to source the sound. Occurs around 2500 rpm and continues up to 4000 haven't really gone past 4k to know about after that.
Occurs in Park, neutral and drive and is more noticeable under load especially when towing. It is not really noticeable under my normal driving style it gets lost in the running gear until the X is at around 3600 RPM's which typically doesn't happen unless I'm pulling a long grade with a trailer. It was only after testing at a standstill in park and neutral that I realized it actually starts at approximately 2500.
Other than the vibration and low frequency hum starting at 2500 there are no real indicators of reduced performance or other problems but it's got me nervous.
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Got 2004 v10 and my truck shifts hard into 2nd gear when starting off slow. If I take off at a faster pace it does not do it.
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Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
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