Ford Excursion :: V10 - Random Stalling - Not Getting Fuel When Cranked
Mar 7, 2017
I've been researching the issue here on FTE, and this past weekend replaced the IAC Valve. I also cleaned the MAF.
Symptoms are random stalling. Before today, it was only at idle. Today it did while under power. It stalled three times before I had it towed home.
It starts up fine, but after stalling it did seem like it wasn't getting fuel when I cranked it a few times. But, then it was good. It still starts fine, and idles fine.
When a pump goes on one of these, do they act up first, or they simply stop working?
This issue has taken place over the past several months, but seems to have come to a head today.
Last resort is changing out the filter before I take it in.?
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I have not run my bronco in a while and cranked it up the other night. It took a while to crank and usually cranks right up! When it finally cranked, I could see fire on my carb through my air filter!
What caused that and how do I fix?
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My truck started and ran as it always did and about a mile it just quit. I tried to restart it and it just cranked but wont start. I bought a scangauge II and did test for the normal no start issues that Ron on you tube mentioned.
Values are as followed engine off
14.8 - IPR 0- SYC
48.0 FMP 28 - ICP - I was thinking that the ICP sensor was a newer 04 model so the values come back a little higher.
While Cranking its as follows
84.7 - IPR 1- SYC
48.0 FMP 46- ICP
Research says that I think if the IPR is bad or unplugged it could show a low value on the ICP..
Also I wanted to check both the IPR and the ICP for connection and to make sure no oil on connectors. See if the IPR screen was cracked or cut.
I have tried to find them and cant so I thought they were behind the turbo so we took that off and no i still cant find it. I have the truck apart and it got late so I have decided to take a break and come back to it tomorrow.
As I said I'm not a diesel mech but I'm pretty good with figuring things out or at least enough to get into trouble.
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I have a 1988 Ford F-250 Lariat, 7.5L 460, four-wheel drive. I have two fuel tanks on it, and I've been having a really annoying, obnoxious problem with it lately. After running it for a while, I noticed that I keep losing fuel pressure, and the truck stalls. When I try to start it, it does nothing but roll over. It just won't start. I've changed the fuel filter, I know both fuel pumps are working (I turn over the key, I can hear front, back, and high pressure pump attached to the left side frame rail kick in.) It's Fuel Injected, not EFI, hence that third pump. The problem happens a lot, and it's random. I could drive for 100 miles, stop to get something to eat, come out, and it won't start.
I thought maybe it was the fuel pressure regulator, but I don't think that's the case because it still runs. I would assume that if the regulator was bad, it wouldn't run at all. I also thought that maybe it was the relay, but according to some mechanics I spoke too, if I can hear the pumps kick in when I turn the key over, then the relay is fine. The only thing I could think of is that it might be the fuel selector switch. Maybe it's going bad, shorting out or something. When I flip the switch though, it switches between fuel tanks, and the gauge reads how much fuel is in it from the sending unit.
There's a schrader-type valve up by the fuel injectors. When I push it in, it barely squirts any fuel out, if at all, so I know the pressure is low. When I push it in on a good day, it sprays out like a water fountain. Just tried starting it again - no good. Pushed on the valve, it spurted out some fuel pretty well, but still won't start. Occasionally tries to, but ultimately won't. I know the spark is good, checked the plugs/distributor cap. Can't get the sucker to start.
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My 2,000 7.3 with 150K miles have been doing good until the last four weeks. It randomly stalled and once would not start when I got back to it after a 30 minutes lunch break. The stalling happened at unpredictable rpm. Sometimes it stalled at near 2000 while I was still in low gear, other time it stalled when I was cruising on street at 30 miles/hr. Twice it stalled while I was at stop light and at idle speed.
The CPS is new. I replaced the fuel filter and it quit stalling for about 100 miles, I was so happy thinking the problem was fixed but then it stalled again.
Each time it stalled it would take about one minute resting before I could successfully start it again. If I tried to start immediately it simply would not start.
Do you think perhaps it is the two filters in the fuel tank being the culprit? I doubt the filters were ever replaced. I looked around and found a Hutch mod where these two filters were removed. An in-line filter was installed on the frame between the tank and the fuel pump. I just cannot understand why Ford engineers place filters inside the tank, which requires either dropping the tank or removing the truck bed in order to change the darn filters.
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Recently while driving in good weather, no rain, about 35 mph my 2003 Nissan Maxima stalled. It failed to restart on the first try, but on the second, started right up without trouble and has been fine since. I took it to a garage where they could find no obvious problem. They said I might have 3 things done to potentially address the issue:
1) replace the air filter
2) do an "idle relearn procedure"
3) flush the fuel induction system.
Whether these would be a good idea, or whether I should just ignore the problem?
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It will randomly not want to keep running when I goto start it so I just rev for a min and then it's fine after that. It doesn't happen to often. 2003 Jetta 1.8t
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Well first the exact car I have. 99.5 Jetta 2.0 AEG. It all started with one loud backfire with a stall at a stop light while in neutral. After that it was random stalling and jerking while driving. So I checked my everything and all seemed well. I replaced spark plugs because they where fouled and nasty. Cables are good. They're near new and tested them with a multimeter. Next I checked my injectors and they are surprisingly very clean.
I had also ran seafoam prior to these problems a few weeks before it all started. Next step was new fuel filter. Old one was nasty and black stuff dripped out. That didn't work. So I checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner. Nothing. Visually threre is nothing wrong under the hood. So today I changed the fuel pump. Went for a test drive all seemed well. Can out of the bank. Then it won't start. So I wait like normally. And it normally gets me home. Nothing. Will sometimes start but if I'm not holding the gas it dies. I don't know what to do. My only other thing I can think of is the coil pack.
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96 grand cherokee 4.0L- Randomly stalls or maybe I should say it randomly operates. Hot or cold it doesn't matter. Sometimes it will restart sometimes not, This has happened before and I replaced the computer- twice. It works fine for a while but I end up here again. What could be frying the computers. Is there a way to check the computer to see if it is malfunctioning?
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I am happy to own a Hyundai Santa Fe (2009) 2.7l which originally originated in the US. It is a really nice car, however, it recently over time developed the problem, which causes some pain - firstly it started with rough idle (pulsating), now it began to stall from time to time when decelerating.
[URL].....
I tried to plug a OBD reader and here's what I get (well, that's a "pending" fault, but still might be useful).
I tried to browse around the internet. I believe it is unlikely that 2 oxygen sensors fail at the same time. It could possibly be caused by vacuum leaks or faulty MAF. Is it a common fault among Santa Fe?
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Our santa fe 2008 diesel randomly stalls. Most of the time the stall happens after at least 15mins of driving but I am not sure if its just a coincidence. It only happens when the car is stopped. When it happens, i put the car in park, turn off AC, then turn the car back on. It starts right up but is a bit rumbling like it will stall again. When i press the accelerator there is no response.
If I turn on the AC or turn the wheels, it dies. If i put it in drive or reverse it also dies. That happens around 3-5 times, then after that, everything is good again. Accelerator responds normally, car doesn't stall. Its driving me crazy! Whats worse is sometimes it doesn't occur for 1month! Then all of a sudden it stalls again. Bought the car 2nd hand and since january it died around 8-10 times.
I brought it to a reputable mechanic and they checked the fuel system. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel sensor. They even tried a different pump and sanction valve and it still didn't fix it. They kinda concluded that its not in the fuel system already, but they are at a loss. Its very hard to trigger since we don't know what really causes the stalling. All we know is that it only occurred when the car is stopped.
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I own an 87 Buick Lesabre Limited Coupe [URL] ..... I have driven it for the past 6 years with no major problems, but just now it has begun to have a stalling problem. The engine just shuts off at random times. Doesn't matter if you're at a red light or driving in traffic. She will stall, then after 5 minutes will start up again, and stall again. So, I took to it to my mechanic & he changed the ignition module & mass air sensor. I picked it up, and the 'Service Engine Soon' light went on, and then she stalled a few minutes later.
So, I drove her back to the shop (stalling several times on the way), and my mechanic changed the crank position sensor, and she still died. He read the trouble code 42, so he changed the ignition module again. I picked her up yesterday, and she made it home without stalling, but the 'Service Engine Soon' light still goes on after 5 minutes of idling, which leads me to believe that the problem lies somewhere else. Could it be an electrical problem (wiring, fuses, computer) that is causing the 'service engine soon' light to go on & the car to shut off? What else could it be?
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I have a 2002 Buick Rendezvous with a 3400 sfi engine. The vehicle runs perfect except random stalling when you are stopping or pulling out. It seems the vehicle has a random low idle unless the air conditioning is on at which time the idle stays around 700 and the vehicle does not stall. I had a repair shop clean the throttle body which made no difference. I replaced the IAC valve and air filter yesterday and still no change. Also was wondering if you unplug the IAC valve should the idle change because it has no effect on the idle at all when I unplug it while the vehicle is running. Really cant afford to just start replacing item after item with no result.
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I'm having continued issues with my mom's POS 2005 Hyundai Accent. It usually runs great cold, but once it's warmed up, it will stall out while driving. This almost always happens when accelerating from a stop. After it stalls, you have to let it set for 30 seconds to a minutes before it will start again. It will also sometimes idle roughly.
I've changed out the TPS and the MAP sensor, the battery, the CPS, the fuel pump, and the spark plugs. I did find that the radiator bypass hose was leaking on to the wiring for the O2 sensor. I fixed that, and the wires appear to be fine. I've sprayed throttle cleaner around the intake and can't find a leak. I scanned the ODB codes and I'm getting a Random misfire, misfire on cylinders 1, 2, 3, and 4, the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAP sensor, both of which have been replaced.
Tonight during my troubleshooting I was trying the wiggle test on the various connectors and got zapped when I was wiggling the coil pack connectors. Is that normal? I'm starting to suspect a wiring or electrical issue, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot that.
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Had the following problems with my 2009 Santa Fe: Audio system would randomly reset when playing MP3 from USB drive, Headlights would dim/flicker when bakes depressed, LED lights on dash would flicker, random stalling while driving. Finally just died and would not start. The Hazard lights would not work only a bit of buzzing from the relay. Checked Battery, connectors, etc. All looked good. Measured voltage at fusebox (inside) and found it dropped from 12v to 4v when I put the hazard switch on. Showed there was a connection problem of some kind.
Finally used a jumper cable from the battery negative terminal to an ground point inside the cabin. Bingo that fixed all the problems, car started, lights were good, hazards worked. As a permanent fix I ran a wire from where the negative terminal of the battery connects to the frame, then drilled a hole in the firewall and ran the wire into the cabin. Connected the wire to a ground point in the cabin. Used a heavy gauge stranded wire. you can try this out with lamp cord as a temporary fix, but I'd use something heavier for a permanent fix. All problems have gone. No flickering, no stalling... This may be a problem on other models from what I've read in some forums (unexplained stalling - check the grounding in the cabin..).
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My 7.3 skips when driving, completely random, but it did skip many times in a row when driving over a bridge, moisture seem to be the culprit somehow. I have replaced CPS, UVCH, Glow Plug, Glow plug relay. I have not replaced the harness from outside the valve cover to the CPU that controls them. Its a 200.000km truck (125.000) miles, that has been well kept and seen little towing in its life. How did you fix your 7.3 from skipping? When it was not a CPS?
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What do these 4 random dead ended wires under the hood go to.
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I am a proud new owner of a 2000 X 6.8l 2wd with the 4.3 rear end .
I have had the truck for 2 weeks now . When I bought her , she ran a little rough but I expected as much after sitting for 6 months ... After driving her home I began to start a massive tune up , because she was acting like there was a miss ... The miss only started after she was at normal operating temp and at first only when at cruising speeds in overdrive on the freeway , it progressively got worse ... The miss became all the time once up to normal operating temp but will do it wether she is in any gear or even park .... Oh and the miss is NEVER at the same time it is always completely random ...
I have changed all 10 coils , all 10 plugs , the PVC valve , and I am changing the fuel filter this afternoon ... Other then that I think I can hear a vacuum leak , but I have tried spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine bay as instructed by a " ford expert " at the local auto parts store and I did not notice any change ... After I install the new fuel filter I am going to fill her full of 93 octane and add a bottle or 2 for Lucas octane boost as well as the Lucas injector cleaner ...
Other then these things I am at a complete loss ! This is my first v10 ford so I am a little at a loss ... Now if this was my wife's BMW 760 or my Lexus IS 300 I would not be having this problem.
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I am purchasing a 2003 Excursion with a V10 sight unseen this weekend. It has a stalling issue. Apparently it will run and then die. What are the things I should look at besides the fuel filter. The owner said the fuel pressure was ok.
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I am now getting a random 'whirring' or 'squealing' noise from the front. When it starts, I feel some vibration in the steering wheel and floorboard and for sure can hear it. Starts on it own at random, sometimes when I hit a bump in the road. Stops at random, sometimes when hitting a bump in the road. Lasts for different lengths of time. Always stops when coming to a stop at about ~15 mph. Seems to change pitch ever so slightly if turning when it is 'whirring' or 'squealing'.
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My EX died on me twice today when I put it in reverse. Once at the doctors office and once in my driveway when I got home. Is there any sort of interlock that would cause it to die when I put it in reverse. I replaced the idle control servo not long ago so I am hopeing it is not that although with the crap parts coming from China it is not impossible.
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