Ford Excursion :: V10 Misfiring After Plug Change?
Apr 30, 2014
About a month ago I changed the plugs on my EX to see if I might pick up a few tenths on my mpg. There was no real issue, but I wasn't sure when they were done last. I used Autolite platinum's(AP103). Since I changed them The truck has a hard miss during acceleration. It feels like it is missing on multiple cylinders. It is most noticeable below 2000 RPMS. During hard acceleration it almost clears out, but the the truck feels like a pig.
There is also a miss at idle, but it goes away if the truck is in park, or neutral. Thinking that it may be my choice of plugs I went back last week and replaced them again with motorcrafts. Still having the same issue. Have scanned the truck with both the Torque app, and an sct scanner and its not throwing any codes. I'm at a loss. In the last year I have replaced the fuel pump, and the filter so I'm ruling those out.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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So Wife did this nice "How-To" for the site and then we celebrated with a trip to Steak N' Shake. Halfway there I could feel it running a little off so I pulled up the app on the phone and connected it. I pulled up the codes and this is what I got.
So am I looking at an O2 sensor you think? It's shifting early and chugging a little as well. When driving it sounds a little like I have dual exhaust or a flowmaster. When sitting still at a light there is a small bump like bass turned WAY low coming from the exhaust as well. I turned around halfway there and went home and we took the wife's Highlander
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2000 Excursion V10.
Recently cylinders 1,2,3,4 wend dead on my wife's Excursion. I searched here for a pin out diagram so I can check all the wires from the coils to the PCM. I changed the coils on those 4 cylinders with no change and then swapped them with the coils on the left side of the engine. the problem stays on those 4 cylinders. Any link to pin out the wire harness for the coils to the PCM
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I have an 04 F150 5.4 w/67k. Just changed the OE plugs. While I had it in the garage also cleaned the K&N air filter. Truck runs great but I lost about 3 MPG. I was getting 16 all around and am now getting about 13 under the same conditions. I bought a Purolator air filter and switched it with the K&N but there had been no difference. I used Champion plugs as the replacements. Truck ran great before and runs great now.
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my mechanic is stump have a 1997 Nissan pickup 2.4 liter auto tranny. number 2 cylinder misfiring.my mechanic say it have fuel, spark. and he did a compression check say compression is good. code (p. o 302) keep coming on. he change spark plug and wire and distributor cap and rotor. but light keep coming on. he say the only other thing he can think may be is. to change the whole distributor he say the cam sensor is in the distributor. tuck have 264,000 mile on it.
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I have a 2004 f150 LAriat supercab 5.4L triton with 120,000 mile on it. Without good reason, I let the dealer convince me to put new plugs in it. Ever since, I've had a serious smell in the cabin of gasoline and or exhaust, and a 2MPG drop in MPG. At first it smelled like gasoline. I took it back to the dealer and they said a connector had backed off, which is code for I don't even want to know what. They "fixed it" but the smell remained.
They then changed the rings on the fuel injectors. The smell got better, but there is more of an exhaust smell now. I checked many blogs about it and found several bloggers with almost the same exact situation. I suggested to the dealer that they need to check that the proper spark plugs were used and they were correctly seated. They of course confirmed this but God only knows if they actually checked.
I also looked up to see if there is a cabin filter on this vehicle and there seams to be some disagreement on the blogs about this fact as well. Now that the cold weather has arrived, I prefer not to take the cowl off or check the plugs myself until it gets a little warmer. The smell is noticeable most of the time and especially stopped at a light regardless of the heater or air conditioner. Should I be more worried about the smell or the fact that I actually took it to this dealer in the first place?
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I have a 92 crown vic. And this past weekend I tried to do a oil change but the drain plug was really tight. So I took it to an oil place to see after I messed with it for over two hours. They did get it out half way, but had to put it back in. They suggested that the drain plug or the the pan is stripped, I even tried to use a cheap siphon hose that goes down through the dipstick and it wouldn't go all the way down. So is there another way I can drain my oil without messing up my oil pan and drain plug?
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I have a Ford Taurus 2004 and would like to change its Spark Plug. I am looking for instructions for doing so as 3 of the spark plugs at the back of the engine are under the manifold air-intake. I am looking for step by step instructions of how to reach to the spark plugs to the back.
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I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
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So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
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In the "Old days" I could pull the one-and-only coil wire and trigger the starter motor to rotate the converter so the plug was at the bottom. How do ya do this with COP engines so the engine does not start?
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I just completed a successful second spark plug change, using Motorcraft SP515 plugs just like last time. After reconnecting battery and starting engine, it ran poorly throughout a short road test. Felt like it was skipping. Checked under the hood and found that the #2 fuel injector was disconnected, so I reconnected the injector.
I took another short road trip and it still ran poorly as if skipping. So, this time I disconnected the battery for several minutes while removing the #2 plug thinking I may possibly have fouled the plug by the injector not being connected. I also checked all of the other injector and coil connections. Reconnected battery and took another short trip. It still runs poorly. No codes yet.
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I have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).
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I'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
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Its a 2000 flex fuel 3.0... Its not the actual injector. I think its wiring or computer. No change in idle when I pull the injector plug. But I think I can feel the injector opening and closing. Compared to nearby injector diagnostic light flashes less brightly. but that's pretty hard to quantify
When I pull the plug on another injector it idles about the same but I can tell it surge up and down as I disconnect and reconnect it. Fuel injectors were backflushed and swapped same problem cylinder. Where do I go from here just take apart the loom and look for abraded wires? Its the number one cylinder, passenger front.
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I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
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I want to change spark plug, took connector of spark unit and took bolt M6 out, lifted spark unit but not enough clearance to remove the unit in order to use wrench for unscrewing spark plug. How it works?
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I changed the purge valve because it was hard to fill up. It idles fine but when I drive it at 40 and just cruise without a load on engine it starts to jerk or misfire. I'm going to change plugs even though they don't look bad and wires.
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My wife called me from the dealer and they said they wanted to change the spark plugs at 40,000 mi.??? Is this really necessary?
My M5 recommended interval was 50,000 Miles Seems really low to me Regardless of what the manual says any either way?
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OK, this technically isn't for the Ex (since it's a diesel), but I do need to replace the spark plugs in a Ford V8 soon. Problem is I've been running diesels for a long time and haven't really kept up with spark plugs.
Seems like there's lots to choose from now. Regular old fashioned, double tip, triple tip, platinum, kryptonite, thermo-nuclear tip, etc. Is one spark plug really any better than another, or is it all just marketing gimmicks? Is it worth spending extra for some fancy sounding spark plug?
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