Ford Excursion :: V10 Died At Traffic Light
Jan 29, 2016
My EX died this morning at a light. Put it in park and fired right back up with no further issues.
View 13 RepliesMy EX died this morning at a light. Put it in park and fired right back up with no further issues.
View 13 RepliesMy EX died on me twice today when I put it in reverse. Once at the doctors office and once in my driveway when I got home. Is there any sort of interlock that would cause it to die when I put it in reverse. I replaced the idle control servo not long ago so I am hopeing it is not that although with the crap parts coming from China it is not impossible.
View 14 RepliesFactory fog lights worked fine, had body off for the head studs recently, they worked fine after. One day they just don't work. Fog light indicator light still comes on. Fuse is good. High beam indicator still works. Where to troubleshoot next?
View 6 RepliesSo here I am driving away for the fuel station and then the tranny tries to shift and I hear and feel a loud clunk followed by no power. I have had no previous issues with the tranny but I believe it has not had any previous work done. The truck is an 02 7.3L with 200500 miles. I am guessing the torque converter is the culprit it still had very little forward motion when I tried to move the truck didn't matter what gear I was in. I intend to have the tranny beefed up but don't intend to go crazy. I do tow an 11,000 lbs TT on a fairly regular basis and have a PHP 6 position switch which can be set for as much as 120 hp from stock but don't do any hot rodding. I am mostly just looking to beef it up and provide as much strength towing.
View 2 RepliesSo making a hard turn this AM truck died. It started right up and didn't see anything else unusual. May be I should start by looking at I.A.C?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 V10 X and am having some starting issues.
Drove her to the store and she was fine. Went to drive home and she started to start, but instantly died. Then after that she wouldn't start at all...does not turn over. Had her towed home (which was fun...front wheels of flatbed came off the ground a little while loading her lol) and I have replaced the starter and the battery...still the same thing.
Thinking maybe the starter solenoid on the fender. Looks like a previous owner has installed something and ran power lines to the starter solenoid. Not quite sure what it is.
Here are some pictures:
Solenoid:
Extra box:
As the title says the beast died on me yesterday morning going into work.
Situation : 5 F @ 7 Am
1/4 tank of fuel that has been treated
cruising at 70 MPH on the highway using the cruise
Going into work the other day the truck died on me as i cruised along at 70 MPH on cruise, I go to get out of the way of a car. As, I step on the accelerator X falls on its face. I look at the dash and there are no idiot lights on, gauges all look good. I navigate to the shoulder 3 lanes over and park it. As soon as it is in park it dies and will not restart.
I call AAA and sit there waiting for the truck to show up. After about 10 mins I try to start it again it stumbles and dies. 2nd try it fires up and is running rough. I make it to the nearest gas station and fill up. Then I go to the parts store and pick up the 911 fuel treatment and put it in the tank. I also use a scan tool on it and no codes. Truck ran fine after all this.
I go to start it after work, it starts and dies. I start it again and it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders and there is a large puff of smoke out the exhaust which goes away after it is started.
After it warms up it runs and drives fine, no issues! So I looked at my extension cord I plug it into and realize that the timer was bad. New timer and verify it works. Go to start it today and it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Is it possible that the fuel gelled up due to the timer being bad and the block heater not turning on? Or am I missing something?
My Ex died on me last night while driving at 70mph, and wouldn't start again, it was turning over fast but not firing and I noticed the theft light flashing fast. After about half an hour it then allowed the car to start, I drove for about 5 minutes then it died again, and I had to call a recovery truck to get home.
It showed a code of P1260 Theft detected. The Ex is now running and starting ok, but I want to find or fix the problem so I'm not left stranded again (and I had my Wife and kids with me too)
I only have one key at the moment, and being in the UK, none of the dealers here will touch the Ex, so I'm thinking of bypassing/deleting PATS if possible?
I've now read tons of stuff on the internet, and some say that programmers like SCT can delete PATS or custom tune builders can delete it too - I was going to get a custom tune at some point anyway, so if it is possible, I'd like to get one asap and delete PATS at the same time?
Is there anything I should be checking in the meantime? Like replace a relay, check wires? I did the same when I first bought the Ex about 8 months ago, but at the time I thought it was the fuel pump, so did the hutch tank mod and checked the whole fuel system etc, and it hasn't done it since so I thought it was fixed....
I have been chasing down what was a perceived vacuum leak...
My Ex (V10, 4x4, 217K miles) started to have an intermittent rough running/no power situation very randomly. No codes on the scanner, and no real apparent cause or condition to pin it down. I noticed what sounded like a like throttle ping...figured it was a vacuum leak someplace in the spaghetti under the hood.
I began to run down the possibilities. I have recently had the entire suspension replaced and upgraded all 4 corners to Power Stop brakes. Figured it might be something related like the classic lines to the hubs.
Replaced the vacuum lines to the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced the vacuum switch for the hubs - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced fuel filter - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Ordered a new vacuum reservoir...
While waiting on that, changed all 10 plugs and coils. Not. Cheap. Ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
Replaced IAC - ran OK for a bit, then rough start/idle/no power.
As I was getting ready to install the vacuum res, it just croaked. it would turned over like it wanted to start, but wouldn't catch.
Of course.... So, now it had to be towed and yes, the fuel pump puked and that was that. I've never had one do anything but just quit suddenly before, so lesson learned. Evidently these pump can act up for a bit before they die.
I have a 2003 Ex 6.0 psd, 155k miles, and was on my way to work to a site 40 miles from nowhere. I was about 10 miles from my destination cruising around 65 when the Ex started losing power. I would say within a couple of miles power was gone and i had no choice but to pull over. I popped the hood, got out had a look around and saw no leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Let it sit for a few minutes and tried to restart it to no avail. There was no check eng light or any signs something was wrong.
I just so happened to have my OBD scanner with me and plugged it in and read for any extra codes. Three popped up on the screen: P0232, P0263, and P0278.
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary (Feedback) Circuit High Voltage,
P0263 is described as a cylinder number 1 contribution/balance. In essence, this code is stating that the number one cylinder in the firing order is experiencing a fuel-related problem.
P0278 same as above for cyl 6.
Right away i thought the fuel/lift pump took a dump on me and was causing the fuel issues in the two cylinders.
Started Ex yesterday morn for a couple minutes then all of a sudden radio went dead along with fuel gauge and digital odometer. I shut down then re-fired and all worked again.
View 4 RepliesNotice to come in to dealership for a computer update for transmission on 2010 Ford Fusion SEL. After update, transmission flared and damaged occured needing repair. After repair vibration was present when stopped at traffic signal. Dealership torked motor mounts. Vibration returned and is worst. Car had 10K miles when update was done damaging transmission. MPG fell by 3.5 mpg in city/highway driving from previous high before repairs. Can this be a motor mount issue? Car has 20K miles now.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 Taurus that runs fine until I stop at a traffic light and then has a misfire about every 5-10 seconds. This diminishes greatly if I put the car in neutral or park while I wait. I have had the spark plugs changed twice. It seems to be more severe in hotter weather. When I was visiting LA, I noticed my cab driver who was driving a 2003 Taurus always put his car into neutral at stop lights as well and when I asked him it turned out that he and all of the other 2003s in their fleet had the same problem. What is wrong?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
View 7 RepliesI got a couple work trucks both 2010's with around 20k miles on them. Mine just cut off on me today while sitting at a traffic light. I wasn't even paying attention till the alarm started dinging at me. The other truck stalled on my employee while turning in to park. The weird thing is I have two truck doing the same thing what are the odds.
View 14 RepliesI'm at 55k and over the past 2k-3k miles I have noticed my idle getting rougher and rougher when stopped at a light. I took it to my garage and they cleaned the fuel injection system/throttle body/MAF sensor. When I got the car beck it felt a little better but the idle is still pretty rough.
Compared to my wife's '09 Sienna, it is a lot more noticeable that the car is on. I'm in Florida so the AC is on. When I put the car in neutral, the idle become smooth.
I have a 99 Mazda 626 (automatic) and in the past year it has stalled out on 3 separate occasions after coming to a stop at a stoplight. The car sputters off, the wheel locks and it just dies. After this happens the car won't click over to start. However, after letting it sit for several hours, the car will start up again without any problem like nothing was wrong.
I even had the car towed to a mechanic after one of these instances. The car was towed to the shop on a Saturday and on Monday when the mechanic went to see what was wrong, the car started up fine and showed no signs of an issue. I have always been able to start it up without a problem on a day to day basis. (The car also just recently got a lot louder -- I found a sizable hole in the B pipe--so I don't think the noise is related. Anyway, I just don't want to stall out in traffic again so is it time to buy a new fuel pump or could a smaller fix take care of the problem?
2000 Passat V6 2.8L ... Ran into some issues w/ the car and need some advice (and where to fix it!). The bottom line is the car is in Walnut, CA area. What's a good close by shop you would recommend? Here is the full description of the problem: A few weeks ago, this happened:
-Car started off fine
-Park the car
-When I come back in an hr, the car won't start
-The engine turns over, but there was no ignition
-After jumping the car, it started just fine
This occurred at least 2 times, and I have replaced the battery and haven't had a problem for a few weeks. Just past weekend, this started to happen:
-Car started off fine
-After driving a while (long distance,freeway), everything was fine
-Park the car, and it started it off fine
-After pulling out of the residential area, and pass a few blocks, at a red traffic light the engine just gave out and stopped
-The engine turns over but won't start
After ~40min or so when I finally gave up, just when I decided to call, then I gave it one more try and the car started just fine? After driving a few blocks, just as I pulled into the red traffic light, the engine gave out again!
This time, I called AAA for the tow. The tow guy came over, measured the battery (battery was fine), sprayed something into the engine and there was no ignition. At this point he concluded it was an ignition problem. We towed the car to the nearest shop. Right after we dropped it off, the engine was able to start!
At this point, the car shop said they won't be able to diagnose the issue since there is no check engine light and the engine seems to be running just fine. So I took the car for another spin, and after 2, 3 blocks, the engine gave out for the 3rd time.
I towed the car back (which was very close) very quickly hoping the problem persists at the shop - but weird enough, the engine started off just fine for the 3rd time.
In summary: the engine stopped 3 times at or came close at a red traffic light, it won't immediately start. after unknown condition/time, it would start just fine again.
At this time we were all dumbfounded. The car had been at the shop for 2 days now and they haven't been able to reproduce any issues.
2004 screw 5.4 xlt
I was driving home and heard a loud rat tat tat tat . I thought I might have run over something. I slowed down and the noise quit, pulled over, checked things out, nothing apparent. I was only a couple miles from home so Started driving again and the ABS light came on, then went off. Another indicator came on and went off... then the entire instrument cluster died except for the airbag light, no tach, speedo. Truck still drove fine. I stopped in the driveway shut her off and then tried to restart...no go. Kind of like a dead battery, tried to turn over.
Had a few things to take care of b4 getting back to the truck. Went out and I hear a continuous click, click, click back by the fuel cap (fuel pump)? ......but the truck is OFF no key in ignition. I disconnected the battery and the noise quit. Battery is showing 12 volts. I stuck the charger on. These symptoms sound like anything even possible???????
I have a 2006 Prius with about 215K miles on it that has started with a new symptom. When stopped at a traffic light, the engine will come on and idle fast, then turn off again. It continues to do this for a few seconds then stops. It will not do it again for a few days then it will repeat the problem.
View 19 RepliesMy A/C quits working when in stop and go traffic or at a long light. Comes back on when I get going again after a minute or 2. One shop says thermistor another says thermostat is faulty causing engine to overheat. Not sure who to believe. Car gauge never shows engine to be overheating. 2007 Hyundai Tiburon
View 12 Replies