Ford Excursion :: V10 - Coil Bolt Broke Off And Stuck
Dec 16, 2016
Looks like if it was broken off but they tried to jb weld it in place and now I cannot get it out.
View 13 RepliesLooks like if it was broken off but they tried to jb weld it in place and now I cannot get it out.
View 13 RepliesI'm looking around for coil packs and came across these: Granatelli Pro Series Extreme Coil Packs.....
View 12 RepliesSO I was working on changing my spark plugs on my 66k 10; corolla. I was trying to remove the bolt(holds the cooldown), at first it was hard to wedge it, but slowly I was able to loose it up little by little. ALL the sudden the bolt made a snap noise, half of the bolt(head) came out with the ignition coil, the other half is still stuck in the whole.
I didn't attempt to change the spark plug or work on the other cylinder heads thinking all the bolts may snap off that holds the coil down. I drove my car around and the coil didn't move at all.
Well i had an exhaust leak on this F250 and so I started torquing the bolts on the manifold to the head. (45 ft.lbs) A couple were very loose so I was thinking "Great, this may fix my problem!"
My first mistake was probably the Harbor Freight Tools torque wrench.
I am on the driver side, second from the rear and then bang! I see a gaping hole where the bolt used to be. Bolt on the floor. I cant see up in the hole to the head, I think it broke flush with the head.
Ok I have an f 150 04 fx4. 120k miles. I was checking a drip on the transmission cooler, and noticed my passenger side coil spring is broken 2nd coil from the bottom. Truck rides well, but obviously this needs to be addressed. Break looks old since it is rusted over, I probably relocated from new England to Florida driving this down 95 with this break, scary.
View 6 RepliesI've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
I was putting on the H& R sports springs tonight and was onto the last corner, front passenger when one of the 3 ball joint bolts broke off. It was so rusted that the nut didn't want to come loose. I used too much force and out came the piece. Do I just go buy a new ball joint at the local VW dealer and swap it out. I didn't touch the other two and the car is still driveable. It's the middle one, exactly as shown in this photo from the DIY.
View 6 RepliesSo I went to install a front end leveling kit in my 2003 2WD F250, looked like a simple task, except the bolt that holds the lower coil spring mount won't budge! I tried heating the nut, I soaked it with WD-40, tried a 200lb impact and a 30" breaker bar with all my weight. Is there something I am missing?
View 5 RepliesRecently took 2012 Malibu V6 to dealer for warranty water pump replacement. During the repair the bolt holding the "snubber" (engine mount shock damper). To the frame was cross threaded and snapped off in the frame. Dealer contacted GM engineers and was told to replace that section of frame.
They told me that they would have to drop tranny n engine to do it and would have my car for 3 to 4 more weeks. They have already had it for 3 weeks. Anyway it sounds serious and i am concerned for the integrity of my vehicle after having that extensive of tear down and reassembly.
We drove our 2009 Honda to and back from Nova Scotia from NY. The Serpentine tensioner bolt broke off after we got home. Anyway, we pulled into Jiffy Lube and they both said that that should not have happened. The mechanic said the same and gave us the old tensioner back to take to Honda saying it was a defect in the car. The car has 45,000 miles on it. My question is what department to approach at Honda if a part is defective? I am thinking it may have been better to take it to Honda in the first place.
View 2 Replies3 weeks after having my brakes replaced. At 60 mph yesterday.
The garage has the car now and is saying it was a freak accident and not something they caused. I call foul to that. It's a 2007 Subaru Outback.
What should I say to them to make sure this gets repaired properly? And what unseen damage should I be looking out for? The wheel run has a groove from where the bolt rubbed. That's all I could see. And I could lift up and wiggle the caliper.
It was only the pad replaced on the front brakes. It was pads and rotors on the back.
I'm in the middle of replacing my VC gasket and while I was removing one of the hex bolts that holds it in it started sparking like crazy and turned the tip of the hex wrench glowing red. It didn't do this for the first bolt I took out. I also forgot to disconnect the battery before I started, could that have had anything to do with it?
View 6 RepliesI replaced my valve cover gasket yesterday on my 2004 Camry. While putting back together, three of the tabs on the connectors for the ignition coil harness snapped off and would not stay together because of tension on the harness. I tried to zip tie them because I read that in another forum post but the clips (alligator clips?) inside the connector did not seem to be making contact with connector on top of ignition coil. The car was mis-firing and running very rough.
After much frustration, I finally removed the wires with the alligator clips from inside the connector and plugged them directly into the top of the ignition coil. Well, the car started and seems to be running/idling fine although now the Check Engine Light is on. Also, I have not driven car yet.
My question: Can I drive the car like this or will the vibration from the engine eventually loosen the connections. I am planning on ordering the connectors but they will not be in for a few days and I need to drive the car.
I have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
View 5 RepliesWas replacing the struts and front ball joints on my wife's '04 Explorer last week. I get to the last one (driver's side front) and the lower strut bolt seems to be frozen to the bushing. I heated it up and beat on it a little bit. Nothing. Just wondering for some other way or am I going to have to cut it out?
View 3 RepliesI am replacing my rear leaf spring hanger and shackle. I have one side done and the other side the old hanger is off. I am ready to install but the bolt/ bushing in the leaf spring will not come out. I tried every thing with what i had for about 2 hours. Is there a tool to remove these things similar to a ball joint press.
View 14 RepliesI managed to get the drivers side exhaust manifold and all of its bolts off no problem. On the passenger side I had 1 bolt head that was already broken and I have only 1 other that is still holding on for dear life. I've been soaking it in aerokroil for awhile now and no luck. I tried some PB blaster today because I am willing to try anything. I also tried heating up the bolt with a torch and some map gas but not sure if I am heating it up enough or not. Anyways, everything else has been going great, got the uppipes off and the valley, turbo and pedestal all cleaned up good. Just need to get the last whole bolt and broken bolt out so I can install the new manifolds. What I should try to remove the last 2 bolts. How hot should I get the bolt when trying to remove it? Or should I be heating the engine block?
View 12 RepliesThe bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
The tail pipe broke right in front of the muffler.
Y pipe Mod is installed. Headers are not in my immediate future as much as I would like to.
Thinking about having it straight piped, concerned about noise.
I was replacing the brakes on the X, the threaded part that receives the top bolt for the caliper is frozen. I tried whacking it with a hammer and tried to free it up by turning it but no good. The bottom bolt assembly worked like it should but the top is frozen solid and makes the brakes rub, you can smell it. Do I need to replace the whole assembly or is there replacement parts for this?
View 6 RepliesI am replacing the turbo on my 2005 f350 6.0. I have the passenger side mounting bolt and the rear mounting bolt out, but cannot get the driver side bolt to budge. I have sprayed it with WD40 and PB Blaster and tried a breaker bar. No luck breaking it loose. I am afraid I might round off the head even though I am using a 6 point socket.
View 12 Replies