Ford Excursion :: V10 - A/C Going To Defrost Under Load?
Jul 19, 2013
Well mine was. Checked all vac lines, 4wd was fine, tested with vac pump tested ok. So first I replaced the canister. Nope, actually happened more often. Pulled the 4wd solenoid that's mounted on the inner fender, rusted and split just above where the vac lines connect. I capped them and now my a/c is perfect, 4wd is out but for now I can live without 4wd.
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Pulling the RV the AC will slowly vent to defrost when the engine is under load and then return to normal when back to normal cruising.. Obviously it's a vacuum problem. Where do I start looking or what is usually the root of the problem.
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Every time I turn my Ex off and start is again I have to turn my A/C completely off then hit the A/C and Recycle button to get air to blow out of the panel vents or it will automatically blow out of defrost vents no matter what setting it was on when I turned ignition off. Is there a blend door actuator/some sort of air diverter on these like my old Yukon XL had? On the Yukon the driver and passenger vents would blow hot and cold.
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Mile marker hubs on my rig. V10. Plugged 2 ports on what I thought was the vacuum pump pass side middle of the fender. The lines coming out of what I thought was the vacuum pump were molded together going into two separate ports. I plugged both ports. What did I do wrong and what should I plug?
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Diagnostic routine. Anytime the vents are on and the engine produces 2k rpm or more it goes to defrost. ....Why and how to remedy?
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The front a/c on my ex on the highest blower motor speed blows out the vents like its on low, but I can hear the motor blowing at full speed. It's not blowing out of defrost or floor unless I switch it. On lower settings I can barely feel any air at all. Only does this rarely. Could it be my vacuum pump?
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I'm not sure if on my 2002 Excursion limited the air vents are controlled thru vacuum or electronically. Where to start. Where to even begin looking to correct this problem. I'd rather not have to pay the dealer prices unless it is something out of my league of fixing.
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Ok, I have capped off the vacuum lines to the front hubs and replaced the vacuum solenoid on the passenger inner fender. Still stuck on defrost. I know there are several options from this point what would be the next step after what I have just recently done. Going away on a ski trip and would like to have it working properly before I go.
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My 02 V-10 Ex seems to be blowing Air from the front vents up to the Defrost unless it go through a series of events-- Hit Auto then forward Air then the fan has to be a 4 only. It will blow forward vents then go back and forth from theirr to the defrost. Also the Temp seems to be much hotter then it should.
Took a interstate trip this weekend though and it seems to blow much colder and do a little bit better staying in the front vents however still goes back and forth. Im in FL and its HOT!!!! The only thing I know is that its a vacuum system.. and that again its HOT in the truck as a daily driver.
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I noticed when i swap to 4 hi. The AC defaults to defrost. I have read this is a possible vacuum leak. Well after driving for about a mile the AC goes back to vents " while still in 4 hi" does this mean my hubs are sticking and finally engaging? Or still probably have a vacuum leak?
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I have to once and for all try to figure out what the heck is up with the AC and the defrost/vent switching back and forth. I have searched and searched and posted a few months back as well. But now that it's summer and 100 degrees out I've had a chance to test some more.
1 - I replaced both hoses going to the hubs up front.
2 - I am not sure how to test vacuum, but I did cap the hoses that lead to the hubs and still had the fluctuating back and forth
Looking for detail how to test for vacuum leak with a gauge directions ? What number is supposed to hold on the gauge and for how long etc...?
3 - It used to be that when I got to a high speed or RPM it would shift to defrost, but now I've noticed that once on the freeway going to work for instance and doing a constant 55-65 ( sub 2k rpm ) for about 20-25 minutes the vents hold fine. When I start to stop and go with higher RPM's it starts to 'break down' again. Could it be that there is a vacuum canister or pump ? I don't know ?? The diesels have a vac pump - do the V10's ? What can I check if there is no vacuum leak - what's next ?
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Just recently under heavy throttle my a/c will stop coming through dash and goes to defrost??
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Weather is getting colder and I need defrost every morning. Rear defrost doesn't work, and I found this when I opened up the rear body panels
Driver Side
Passenger Side
I cleaned both sides on the loose contact with sandpaper, cleaned with alcohol, and then superglued back together. Will the superglue allow enough electrical contact for it to work? Is there a better adhesive or way to fix? I want it to fully cure/dry before I fire up. Hopefully in the morning my fix works.
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I have a 2002 Ex with the 7.3. Every time I put it into 4x4, the A/C automatically switches to the windshield defrost vents. After a couple minutes it switches back the the A/C vents. I'm assuming that isn't normal.
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When the blower is on, it automatically switches from vents to defrost vents on its on. Does it about every 4 minutes.... like it's haunted. Curious if this is something i can tackle or do i need to take it in...
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Ok have and 2001 excursion v10 auto the make good heat but when you start to like climb a hill it alternates between the floor and defrost then when you knoll the hill it goes back to the vent heat. I guessing a vacuum problem.
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I have a vacuum leak. That's clear. When I put the truck in 4WD the air vents to the defrost after a slow (15-20 s) transition. The only way I can get the air to come back to the dash vents is to disengage 4x4. Of course, the auto-lockers aren't working. I can trouble shoot the vacuum lines and find the leak. No big deal.
I've isolated it downstream of the vacuum reservoir. It could be the PVH solenoid but at least the reservoir side holds pressure.
My concern is the noticeably poor A/C performance. It cycles between kinda cool and kinda warm. I remember the A/C being ice cold a few weeks ago.
Could the vacuum leak in 4x4 vacuum lines be related to the A/C problems? I'm thinking blend door vacuum issues. But I can't even find the blend door vacuum lines.
How do I know if my blend door is fully open/closed? Are there any other place to look that can cut down on my troubleshooting?
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So in the past week only on certain days I have lost my ability to change zones for where my nice refreshing cold air blows on me from. It only blows out of the defrost vents. I here a fluttering noise under the dash when this happens. Also under the hood where all the AC hoses and such are located I feel cold air coming from inside the black box just next to what looks like the blower fan assembly. I don't believe I should be feeling that.
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Need a wiring diagram that will show me how the rear window defroster circuit works in my Excursion. I have the EATC, which may or may not be related... not sure. So the diagram would probably need top be from 2002-2005. Obviously I ask because mine is not working (and neither are the mirror heaters since they are activated by the same switch - I think???). I've checked fuses to no avail...
Mine has never worked since I got this Excursion put together last year. I have read some previous threads that mention two different rear hatch glass defroster grids, one being a higher output grid (and different resistance?) than the other. Is there a chance my system is looking for the higher ohm grid, but my window grid is the lower ohm unit and therefore not activating the timer? I only ask this because my electrical system is M/Y 2002, but my back hatch is from a 2000 M/Y.
Also, I get no indicator light when the switch is depressed. I have tried 3 different switches just because I had extras... no luck.
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Ok, I know I have a vaccum leak. I have manual hubs now and those lines are capped. The AC is blowing through the deforst and the pump is running non stop. I have replaced the vac pump a couple of years ago and it worked fine then. any other places to look?
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I just got my excursion and it skips really bad when going up the bridge, or when it is under any load. I definitely need to change my plugs. I also may need to change my coils. Is it okay to get the cheap $8 coils off ebay or do I need to spend the money on the $75 ford Motorcraft?
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