Ford Excursion :: Turbo Surge - Cannot Maintain 70 Mph With Small Load Up A Mild Hill
Apr 30, 2012
I have a 2002 EX 7.3 and have never towed anything with it since purchased a year ago. This weekend I towed a side by side on a single axle trailer about 400 miles and could not maintain 70 mph with the small load up a mild hill. Also I could here the turbo surging while climbing hills. I have a AFE cold air intake and that is it. Truck had a aftermarket muffler on it when I bought it. New to the diesels but I thought it should tow that Trailer a little easier. I have no boost gauge or anything. Truck runs great other then this issue. Does not burn oil, get hot or anything out of the ordinary.
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Decided to try a new wheel to see if I can stop the surge during hill climbing with our 5er. Old wheel looked great with no dusting or nicks. New wheel sure has a whirl when it spools up, but sounds cool. Haven't pulled trailer since swap yet. Truck still only has 85k on the clock.
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2006 fx4 f150 5.4 flex 52,000 miles ... Just got home from a 800 mile round trip vacation, seems I've developed a miss or a tranny problem. The truck runs/idles fine, shifts fine, everything is as normal. Except maybe 12 times while under a load, like climbing a hill, the truck would "bump" that's the only way I can describe it. I only noticed it in Drive/Overdrive. I hoped I had water in the gas so I added gas treatment at 2 fill ups, still seems to do it occasionally. Where to start? I'm going to get a fuel filter today, the one that's on it only has about 12k on it....
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I bought a 2004 F150 XLT 4x4 122,000KM. I used to have a 1995 BMW 318TI but I built a cabin and a truck seems to go with it. I have already done some work like new plugs, oil change, tranny flush, fuel filter change and Air Filter. I noticed about 2 weeks ago going up to the cabin a rattle sound when I was going up a hill. It is coming from the right side (FRONT) and it sounds like its from the wheel. I really does it if I give it some gas and then press a bit more on the peddle and then you here like marbles in a tin can if that makes sense. I just got back from my mechanic and we took it out and it is still doing it so we jacked it up and checked everything. Their are no loose clips and back plates making noise. We did notice that a heat shield near the cat was rubbing and we adjusted it, this did not solve out problem. We were both looking at each other after an hour wondering what the hell this could be. I am going back on Wed and he is going to hook it up with some kind of machine with microphones and a headset to pinpoint the problem. It does not affect the performance of the truck but it is very annoying when I need to give it some gas to pass or go up a big hill.
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Just bought my 2013 Platinum 350 DRW 2 weeks ago. 9,000 miles on it. I was cruising along yesterday at around 45 mph in 6th gear going up a slight incline. Truck was fairly low rpm don't remember what exactly. As I'm going up this hill it begins to shudder quite a bit almost seemed like the turbo shuddering while lugging up the hill at a low rpm in 6th. I stepped into the throttle to get it to downshift into 5th and it stopped. I never experienced anything remotely like this in my 2011 6.7.
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In addition to significantly louder noise from the Turbo on start-up, we've started to hear a pretty concerning noise while descending a hill in Tow-Haul. Not sure that the T/H has anything to do with it other than getting the engine in a RPM range that causes the noise. We've taken it in and tech says "That's just normal noise"... What ever that is.
Here is a link to an example : Tow haul making a lot of noise in my F350 diesel. Pulling a very heavy horse trailer. - YouTube
Best next steps for a 64,000 mile 2012?
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My current 08 duty was bought with what I believe to be a procomp 6" lift modified to an 8" lift. The 100 mile drive home after buying the truck showed a tiny "hop" in the rear. I ditched the 37s for some new 35s. Still a tiny hop, mostly noticeable while under a load like climbing a hill. I pulled the rear driveshaft and had it fully rebuilt with a new carrier bearing as well. Still gots the hop? The truck has a carrier bearing drop bracket but I think it may be insufficient for the lift.
The rear driveshaft still has a slight bend in the middle of where the two driveshaft pieces connect. Are the 2 piece driveshafts on your 8" lifted trucks sitting straight with each other or do they have this bend as well?? I am thinking if I get a bigger drop bracket it may cure this slight hop I have? Lots of lifted trucks where I live but they are dam near all shortbox with 1 piece rear shafts so I haven't been able to find one to compare. By the way, my truck also has pro comp rear traction bars..
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I have a '97 F-350 with a 7.3L Powerstroke Turbo Diesel, I frequently haul a 27ft bumper tow trailer weighing upwards of 6,000 lbs, which by the way it tows beautifully, but if i am pulling up a long hill or have been on the pedal for a while and let off, then there is a grinding sound that sounds like it is coming from the turbo. My dad and i think it may be some sort of exhaust overflow valve from the quick decrease in rpm or maybe an overspeed on the turbo. No noticeable decrease in power.
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I have been reading several past post regarding the misfire while in OD and going up a small hill with light acceleration around 45 to 55 mph. Everything points to the COP so I replaced it today. Still getting the code after 20 minutes of driving around. My truck shudders and looses power. I can either let up on the throttle or hammer down on it to eventually smooth it out and everything goes back to normal.
Check engine light flashed but didn't stay on. My scanner does report misfire on cylinder 7 (P0307). Haven't owned this truck very long so I don't know much of it's history except OASIS report shows nothing alarming. Guess next step is a new set of plugs.
Another first today, is the tachometer is stuck at 4500 rpm. Shut the truck off and let it sit for an hour, then went back to start and tach. acts like 4500 is the new zero and running engine at 1000 rpm now indicates 5500. 2007 F250 SD 5.4 ....
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So I'm wondering in a nutshell; in layman's terms... what is compression surge and turbo flutter if you had to summarize it in a few sentences. I was told that its worse with a tune, but even our stock cars have it? I'm not very tech savvy so on the articles I found and read it's said to be bad and basically happening at low RPM on high gears?
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I've a 01 elantra its a 2 litre tubro diesel. There is no power in the engine even to climb a small hill...
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I have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
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Just bought a 1999 7.3 f250 w/71000 miles and took it to a diesel guy and under load he said that the whistling was normal..is this correct?
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I've been noticing over the past few weeks that in the 1,5-3k RPM range, usually more under load (e.g. going up a hill, in traffic) that the turbo sounds like its venting boost more/earlier. It's normal acceleration too, not WOT!
Now, I might not have recognized normally, but my girlfriend's MKIV 1,8t just exhibited the same sound (more noticeable), and it turned out to be the hose to the "pancake pipe"/intercooler came loose. It's kind of the same "hissing" that you would hear if a DV/hooter valve is bad.
I know what the normal "pssst" when taking the foot off the gas should sound like. And that happens at highway speeds and normal acceleration.
So, before I bring it in - is something like this normal on the MKVI 2,0? Is it supposed to be venting to atmosphere during that higher-load acceleration, like going up a hill? Once we got her 1,8t fixed, it doesn't make a sound other than normal turbo pressure release at expected times.
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2001 V10 115K miles
When I set the cruise dead on 70mph, the engine surges as if it's not getting fuel. I can set it at 68 and 72 and it runs great. Fuel filter was replaced 2K miles ago, and I just had new plugs put in, but it still does the surge thing. The RPM's don't bounce when it does it, but it the whole X lurches pretty good.
I'm not an engine guy so don't know what else to look for.
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I recently picked up a 2000 Excursion with the 5.4 V8. Engine has 150,000. I got it cheap because it has a surging problem over 1500 RPM. This problem is intermittent.
I have 1 DTC. P1000 which is OBDII checks not complete. I cannot clear this even using the factory procedures. FYI..I have a snap on solus scanner. I think this is a voltage problem, If you try to start the engine with the scanner plugged in, the scanner shuts off, so I'm thinking the PCM loses battery power supply when the starter engages, resetting the PCM.
This problem is NOT a miss.... something isn't opening or shutting off above 1500 RPM. This truck doesn't have an EGR system, it has the EVAP system. This may be the problem, thats why I'm here. OK. heres a list of what I've replaced since I started working on it.
Engine oil and filter
air filter
fuel filter
8 COP's
8 plugs gapped properly
cam position sensor
IAC sensor
MAF sensor
Removed throttle body and cleaned.
Vacuum checks. 22" at purge valve,fuel dia, and vacuum canister
Checking with the scanner at 1500 RPM with problem
SFtrim1% bounces between5-15
SFtrim2% bounces between2-0
LFtrim1% bounces between11-13
LFtrim2% bounces between 5-6
O2S11(mv) bounces between 200-781
O2S21(mv) bounces between 200-800
Ssystem is in closed loop holding throttle at 1500 RPM... Note engine surges when at the RPM or above. I'm thinking the engine is lean, not sure how to read the trim numbers...
Idle is fine ... Problem is intermittent ... Also noticed that engine will only advance spark to 30 degrees @2000 RPM during this problem. I have seen it advance to 38-40 degrees when I do not have this problem, so I kind of understand the power loss,knock etc due to the timing, my question is whats causing it to do this?
EVAP question.... The purge valve should open according to PCM command a certain value, correct? I can monitor the duty cycle % but cannot activate and check proper duty cycle through scanner . When I try to I get an error message of module error -unspecified.
Disconnected hoses at purge valve,Full manifold vacumn on one, nothing on other, no flow through purge valve, but scanner shows 30% duty cycle. I would think the should be a little flow at 30% Maybe my problem? Troubleshoot procedure for the EVAP would be good.
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Today I was 160 miles into a 250 mile drive and things were going well. I was cruising at about 75-80mph and approaching a fairly long hill of moderate grade. As I climbed the hill, my rpm was dropping, as expected before a downshift. The downshift never happened. I kept pushing more pedal and eventually, at maybe 40mph, it downshifted, but still no power. Engine being held at around 2500 rpm. No power no matter how much I pushed. Down hill I was able to resume speed but as soon as the next uphill, same thing, no power, no shift. Pulled over, it was raining hard. Checked for wet fuse box, control modules, pcm, wiring harnesses, everything dry. Checked all fuses. Disconnected battery in hopes of forcing reset, no change.
Checked trans fluid, it was clean, red, full, and unburnt. No visual wires broken or chafed. No odd smells or sounds. Nothing noticeably hot. Truck hits 45mph max on flat ground. I limped it this way for 20 miles. If I push my foot to the floor to really force a downshift, engine will rev freely up to redline with no resistance once it downshifts. If I let the rpm drop down, it will catch and lock back in. Now when I come to a stop the truck has a very lopey and rough idle and will stall once I come to a complete stop. It will stay running if I give it gas. In neutral and park the engine still has a lopey idle and is rough. Will possibly die at times. Sounds smooth and perfect when you rev it in neutral or park. Reacts as it should with no hesitations. No check engine light and no flashing OD light. Will shift into all gears, just moves through them with no power. Let truck sit for 3 hours, issue remains.
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Ok...not sure were to go with this or how to explain it, while climbing a steep paved hill at 5-10 mph I get a rumbling vibration and noise. If I were to guess almost like axle wrap is causing the U Joints to bind or something. Runs and drives fine other then that. If I put it in 4x4 it does not happen, only seems to happen when wheels cant slip while climbing hills at LOW speed.
Don't notice it if climbing a dirt hill. There is a hill at the kids baseball fields that is steep and paved that its really bad on, way to busy right now to play on it to see what's happening. Tranny was looked at and oil changed.
New BDS 4" lift - had same issue prior to lift, though stock springs were worn.
Searched the form but really didn't come up with anything at this low of speed. While in Wisconsin the resort we were at the paved hills were so steep it felt like something was going to break. Put it in 4x4 and it was fine. This was with stock leafs.
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So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
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Well mine was. Checked all vac lines, 4wd was fine, tested with vac pump tested ok. So first I replaced the canister. Nope, actually happened more often. Pulled the 4wd solenoid that's mounted on the inner fender, rusted and split just above where the vac lines connect. I capped them and now my a/c is perfect, 4wd is out but for now I can live without 4wd.
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I just got my excursion and it skips really bad when going up the bridge, or when it is under any load. I definitely need to change my plugs. I also may need to change my coils. Is it okay to get the cheap $8 coils off ebay or do I need to spend the money on the $75 ford Motorcraft?
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