Ford Excursion :: Truck Would Pull To The Left A Little When Braked
Oct 21, 2014
I'm getting tired of this. Bought my Ex in April 2013
Realized in June '13 that truck would pull to the left a little when I braked. Replaced pads and rotors. Factory pads and rotors looked normal but whatever.
December 2013 - shimmying when braking downhill (not towing). Replaced rotors, pads and calipers with Power Stop.
September 2013 - Everything was good but I now have the the left pull about 35% of the time when I brake. After extended downhill mountain driving (7%+ grade for 15 miles) I get the shimmying. I only get the shimmying in this situation.
When I had my tires rotated (reputable shop) I was told I only had a 2-3k miles left on my pads.
I do drive aggressively so I'm not surprised I need to replace my pads more often, especially on a large vehicle. That said pads wearing out at ~10k miles normal?
I was going to just order new pads and install them this weekend but what is going on. Ex currently has about 64k miles on it.
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I recently took delivery of a new 2012 F250. It was a cab chassis, we had a utility bed and lift gate installed from the upfitter along with heavy rear springs. From day one the truck would pull left when the brakes were applied. The brake pedal also feels mushy, not firm. It will firm up when I pump it. I could also smell burning around the left front of the truck when I would get out of the cab. Hot brake smell. Took it to the dealer with only 400 miles on it and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors, and gave it back. In relatively few miles the problem was right back again.
Took it back to the same dealer last week with 1200 miles on it now. This time they say they replaced the rotors. I went and picked it up it this morning. Within 5 miles drive of the dealership I can tell the brakes are still bad. Now, it will kind of do a "head fake" when the brakes are applied, pulling slightly left or right, before deciding which way it wants to pull. It will pull right or left now during firm braking. And the brakes were stinking by the time I had it back to them. I turned around and took it right back to them again. Brand new F250?
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I purchased an 03 Excursion with 87K miles strictly for towing back in January. I've been driving the tuck once a week since, just to have it not sit in the driveway. I've noticed while driving down the road the truck will wander left/right randomly and I have to micro manage the wheel to keep it straight. It's more noticeable at higher speeds. It's more noticeable while towing.
My camper is 6K empty and loaded 9k. I put water in it once at campgrounds, so I don't drive with all that weight, so I am somewhere in between. 6 and 9. While towing and I hit a woop in the road, the truck comes out pushing me other than straight. If I let go of the wheel, it drives straight, meaning alignment feel true.
I am not a mechanic by no means, but here is what I've gathered so far;
From my door sticker, I have D code springs in the front and G code in the back.
My front stabilizer shock is looks wet. (OEM or after market?)
My shocks look original, I should replace.
My front bump stops are gone.
While towing, I am riding on my rear bump stops.
If and when I need to replace parts, should I go with OEM or aftermarket? I am probably getting a head of myself, but; Is it possible to add leafs to rear, or not even worth it. Would it be cheaper to buy the smallest lift kit vs. changing springs?
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I have a 06 Ford Freestyle with roughly 121,000 miles that I purchased 2 months ago. I love the car. Only issue I am noticing is when accelerating at take off, once the car gets up to speed I notice a slight, quick pull to the left and then its fine. I sometime feel this pull when turning to right(like around curves).
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i have a 2WD 2004 Ford Ranger regular cab. I have replaced the rotors three times in the last year due to warpage. What is causing this? The truck does not pull to one side or the other while driving. applying the brakes don't cause it to pull to one side either. According to my mechanics, neither caliper is sticking. the right brake pad does show some signs of heat damage (cracking). There is no uneven tire wear. I have a buddy who thinks it may be a bent wheel hub, but my mechanic says no because no uneven tire wear. They are leaning to a faulty brake hose, but can't say for sure.
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I just had my EGR valve and hose and DPFE sensor replaced and the truck is running better than it has in quite a while except that whenever I turn to the left and pull into a parking space it dies.
I've read that it could be a bad power steering pump. This would make sense because mine is pretty noisy when I make a left or right turn. However, it has never caused the engine to stall before. This didn't begin happening until immediately after the recent maintenance.
Is there something I should be looking for that my be related to the new EGR valve/hose or DPFE sensor?
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If I brake hard a dozen times, 8 or 9 will be normal, a couple times it will pull to the right but as long as your hands are on the wheel you can barely tell, and maybe once it will pull really hard. I have Hawk super duty pads and Ebc rotors with less than 5k on them and I just replaced the front calipers and hardware because I thought that was the problem.
It's not even consistent. Could possibly be rear calipers (rear also has new Hawk pads and Ebc rotors with less than 3k on them) but I don't think it would pull that hard. Tire pressure is even between sides btw.
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Have 2001 F-250 7.3 PSD, automatic, ESOF (had to replace the original hubs with Warns)have kept up the maintenance,oil, grease, ATF fluid & filter, truck has been virtually trouble free. About 2 weeks ago I decided to go across an area of the lawn, as I was going (in 2 wheel drive)I felt the tires spin a little so I stopped got out and locked the hubs, got back in truck turned t-case to 4 high. had to rock the truck out of a damp area but nothing really.
So I got back to where I came in at (in reverse about 100') stopped put it back in 2 wheel drive, tried to go forward, very difficult, sluggish, got back in driveway had to back the truck in, will not go forward at all now. Checked all fuses, rapped the the t-case motor, no codes. So I thought I'd move the ruck, have a winch that will pull it out by the barn, I could not even move the truck forward by pulling it with a winch. As I said have never had any problems with truck. Transmission fluid is good, clean no burnt smell.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.7 4x4 CCLB. About 90k on the odometer.
Full flopro exhaust(no cat, no dpf) and a H&S tow tune. Otherwise stock.
8" lift and 37" toyo mt tires.
Anyways, I ran the truck in my first truck pull ever a few weeks ago. I pulled in 4wd high, rear locked, tow/haul mode, traction control off 2nd gear.
I wasn't able to pay super close attention to all of the stock gauges, but it didn't over heat and it didn't rev over 3000rpm. It was pulling like a freight train until the 125' mark and it just shut off. I thought something may have broken.... I put it in neutral, cycled the key and it started right back up....
Checked for anything obviously wrong, no fluids, all boots looked attached and fine. Nothing. Drive it home and haven't had a problem since. No CEL, no warning no anything. So why the truck may have stalled on me?
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I have a 2006 that shuts off in a hard pull, if I wait 3 minutes it starts again. I hooked up my scan tool and when it dies and I crank it it only builds 200psi oil pressure, let it sit it builds enough pressure to run fine. If I dont push it over 3500psi for more than minute it wont die pull a hill it dies again. Is it the hpop or an o-ring.
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I have a 1988 FORD Ranger with the 2.9 liter engine with the four speed automatic overdrive transmission. Several days ago the transmission went out. The truck will not pull in reverse, overdrive, drive, second or first. Usually most vehicles will usually have at least the reverse, A first or second when the drive and overdrive stops working altogether. What the problem could be?
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So earlier this week i took my truck in for a check engine light and a issue when i would pull up to a Red Light my truck started knocking like a Diesel motor. I quickly put the truck into neutral and the issue went away.
Is there an issue with the 5.4L motors mine only had 69000km and was properly maintained with an oil change every 8000km? 2009 F150 5.4L new motor after 69000Km
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I have a 2004 super duty diesel 6 with electrical trouble dash lights stopped working put in new fusses where needed still no dash lights but now truck starts and runs ok but will not shut off unless I pull ignition.
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Fuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
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I have a 2000 Excursion with a 7.3 diesel. I have 245k on the clock. Engine and transmission are original. I have an overheating issue when I am towing and pull a long grade. It's not as bad as it was before but it still happens and I am tired of turning off the AC and putting the heaters on full blast to support cooling when it is 90 plus outside. A list of things that I have done so far.
Newer water pump and thermostat.
New tensioner.
Installed a new trans pan with about 7-8 larger capacity.
Used some magic juju juice to clean out colling system.
Installed a coolant filter. I am on my 5th filter. The first one didn't last 500 miles before getting stopped up.
Switch to Delo ELC.
I recently had the upper hose off and when I looked inside, I didn't see any scale or build up. I also read about some of the trucks of that vintage didn't get a trans cooler. When I looked, I saw a cooler but it doesn't look like it is plumbed through the radiator.
I want to install a large trans cooler. I don't want to replace the radiator just for the sake of replacing it. Also, look at the pic of the water pump with the thermostat sitting in it. Is the thermostat supposed to be resting all the way down? I keep wondering about that.
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When I bought my X, the front end would periodically shake and pull to the right.
I recently redid the front brakes on my X. Replaced everything except the rotors; they looked okay. That fixed it pulling to the right and fixed the shaking somewhat, but it still shakes when I apply the brakes.
I don't feel it through the pedals. It's all up front, too. You can see the steering wheel shaking really bad.
What I'm thinking is maybe it's my tie rod ends? I think my front brakes were locking up and causing the shake to happen all the time. I think when I fixed that, it made it to where the shake only happens under braking. This makes me think it's the tie rod ends, or something else loose up there. I recently replaced the ball joints, too.
Or could it be the rear rotors? I just want to make sure I'm close before I start throwing parts at it!
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My 2008 camry se is pulling hard to the left, even just taking my hands off the steering wheel for less then a second it will pull sharply to the left. why is that?
I have 20x8.5 wheels with 245/35 tires. I recently changed the front tires with a brand new pair and also got an alignment after lowering my car on H&R springs and it seemed like it pulled even harder after doing the new tires and alignment and my steering wheel seemed like it would shake from time to time when applying the brake (car always pulled even before lowering it). I took it back to the tire shop and they did another alignment and put the new tires in the back and the older tires in the front. It then kinda stopped shaking the steering wheel and the pull to the left wasnt bad but it still pulls hard to the left.
I got the front rotors resurfaced with new pads about 3-4 months ago when my steering wheel would shake very drastic, but it was gone right after the repair."no more shaking"
so what could the problem be if its not the alignment?
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I have a 2002 Dodge Durango with puzzling brake issues. I noticed while driving that the car suddenly started to pull to the left. When i got to my destination the front drivers side tire started to smoke and unleash un ungodly smell. I let it cool, removed the tire and checked the brakes. Everything seemed to be fine. I also checked the calipers, also fine. I put the tire back on and it drove fine for a month or so.
The next time i was driving and the same thing happened. now it was the passengers side. Again i checked everything and it was fine. It was time for new brakes so I replaced them. Fine for another month or so. It is now happening on the drivers side again. I appologize if this is posted twice now, but i couldn't find it or see any responses.
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I have a 2003 Volkswagen Golf 2.0L 5 speed manual. Over the last 10,000 miles a problem started where on the highway in 5th gear, if i try to speed up by putting the pedal down, the steering wheel moves itself to the left and the car steers to the left. The wheel returns to the original position when i let off of the gas. its scary at high speeds and has become so bad that I can feel it accelerating at low speeds too.
The alignment is off and the steering wheel slightly to the right. when I put the gas down and it goes perfectly straight and when i release it goes back to the right. it has 126,000 miles on it. I know it needs tires, shocks and an alignment job but don't think that those factors are causing my problem. Could it be the motor mounts?
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When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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This is on my 2002 Ford Excursion 4x4. I have replaced the brakes 2 times with the same results.
New: rotors, pads, calipers and grease the caliper slide pins so they are sliding properly. I have also replaced the slide pins the first time. I even lightly greased the ends of the brake pad back plates where they mount in the calipers/brake clips. There is always more brake dust on the left front wheel compared to the right front. The steering wheel turns to the left when I hit the brakes. I can't figure this out.
The one thing that seems strange is it was very difficult to get the pads and brake pad clips into the caliper. It almost seems like the pads are too tight into the clips/caliper. I am wondering if taking a little material off the ends of the brake pad back plate to allow better movement in the caliper/clips.
The left front is either grabbing too much or the right front is not grabbing enough.
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