Ford Excursion :: Truck Was Kicking In And Out Of OD
Jul 25, 2016
Took the family up into Michigan this weekend to go play out on Silver Lake sand dunes and do some camping up there. We towed our 27ft travel trailer which weighs about 6500-7000lbs so its not to terribly heavy. Well on the way up we were hitting some hills and with the heavy traffic the truck was kicking in and out of OD so i shut it off. Was doing good with everything until we came up to a stop light and there was a big puff of smoke that came out from under the truck.
We pulled over into a gas station and looked at. It looked like trans fluid was coming from the front of the bell housing or the little plug at the bottom of the trans towards the front. Couldn't really tell where it was coming from. We let it cool down for about an hour and added a a little fluid to it kept on driving. After that we had no problems with it for the rest of the weekend and that even included the 200 mile trip back home. I left the OD on for the trip back home.
Do you all think the trans is ok and could probably just use a good flush and new coolant or should i take it in somewhere to look at maybe getting it rebuilt? Im gonna add a good trans cooler and gauge to it so i can monitor it a little better. This is all on a 2000 EX v10.
Also, since I have 3.73 gears in this truck and its our dedicated tow rig, would it be wise to swap in some 4.10 or 4.30 gears to support it out a little bit? I know the v10 likes to rev going down the road but want the rest of the truck to last as well. We are looking at getting a bigger camper down the road and want the truck to be able to handle it safely and tow it without struggling as much.
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1-My Ex steering is very heavy and some times kicking, I don't have any fluid leaks and my steering shock looks nice and clean, I did check and lubricate the ball joints.
2- how did the big 3 wire upgrade in v10, I need some pictures for grounding wires locations like engine to body, battery to body, chassis to body. Because I got a new 300 amp alternator to juicing my truck stuff and to power up the 3000w power inverter.
3- The engine exhaust fumes is so strong making my eyes burning ← . What I did is new coils pack, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter , cleaned the injectors , checked the exhaust for leaks, cleaned the throttle.
But it's no different, I had this problem sense Day1 .
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I just bought my first 2001 Ford Excursion! It has 170k on it.
Question 1 - When I ease into acceleration, my truck starts kicking/ jerking. But if I step on the gas to punch it, it gets up and goes, no kick. While the kick/ jerking happens, the tack doesn't move and the speedometer don't do anything abnormal! What that might be?
Question 2 - this truck came with a VHS player in it, and it doesn't work. The VCR is turning on, but not the screen. Is there a certain way to turn the screen on?
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I drive on the highway everyday. After about 4 or 5 days my front bumper, grill, fog lights, & headlights are caked with dead bugs sticking. What is the best way to keep them from sticking to the front of my truck? I saw some different sprays and all that but that worries me too because if the spray does work well then that means I will have more on my radiator and may cause problems there too. Any good way to prevent this?
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We had the Excursion parked untill we can get the thing up to have the radiator flushed and new thermostat put in. But we had to drive it today. Had no choice. Well, To our surprise the truck wont go into park. You can shift it untill the needle goes into the "P" like always but the truck will roll and go "click, click, click" as it rolls. It wont start either (guessing due to neutral safety switch). I got under the truck, everything seems tight, I tried to put it in park from the lever on the side of the transmission but it will not move any further. Could the whole neutral safety switch be bad and not fully putting the transmission in park? I can pull it down to neutral to start it and it goes into all gears and moves just fine.
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Had mechanic check suspension components, alignment is fine, nothing looks damage or needs to be replaced. Tires are 35 inch and practically brand-new...
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I had a 7" icon installed with reservoir shocks installed. Rides pretty good driving unless I hit a dip or bump. When either of those are steep down or up I have a very hard hit. Could the shocks not have enough travel? I am at a loss to explain except it is a pretty hard contact. It looks like the shocks have about 3-4" of shaft exposed on the shock. Unfortunately I do not think I can post pictures yet.
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First time it acted up truck started after it cooled down , and several other times I had the same outcome, last week it left me stranded and now it won't start at all, Not getting any fuel...
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So I started to notice a vibration only when the truck is under power at about 65 plus MPH...
Now I already know I have a driver's side front wheel hub that needs replaced and the springs are typical Excursion springs (they all 4 need replaced), but this is the first time I have experienced the vibration.
Before you ask...the steering wheel does not vibrate. The vibrations can be felt at my feet and they create a low toned droning vibration that starts at about 65 mph.
When I'm cruising down the highway at 75 mph and take my foot of the accelerator, the noise and vibration basically goes away.
My diagnosis (and a few probably "stupid" questions): u-joints are going bad...
Could it possible be something else? How long they may last before I "have" to change them? What is the worst thing that could happen if they completely fail?
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Well over the past few weeks, the ABS light has come on but went off after I restarted the truck. Well now it is on full time. Dealer wants $85 just to read it. Any place to read ABS codes? If it doesn't show in my sig, it's a 2000 V10 4x4.
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I have a 2000 excursion v10 with 270k she is a great truck... but she is not starting. I thought it was the starter relay on the passenger fender bc it will start when you jump It with a wrench. I replace the relay and no luck still not starting. When you turn the key I can hear the relays fire that are in the fuse box but the starter will not fire.
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As soon as I put my truck in reverse, the alarm goes off even if nothing is near me. This just started a few days ago/
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I just bought the truck and the previous owner said sometimes when the truck is parked in an angle, like in a drive way it will not start unless you use a screw driver and touch both posts on the solenoid. It happened to me today and I do not like it and need to find the cause? Why it would do this?
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I'm getting tired of this. Bought my Ex in April 2013
Realized in June '13 that truck would pull to the left a little when I braked. Replaced pads and rotors. Factory pads and rotors looked normal but whatever.
December 2013 - shimmying when braking downhill (not towing). Replaced rotors, pads and calipers with Power Stop.
September 2013 - Everything was good but I now have the the left pull about 35% of the time when I brake. After extended downhill mountain driving (7%+ grade for 15 miles) I get the shimmying. I only get the shimmying in this situation.
When I had my tires rotated (reputable shop) I was told I only had a 2-3k miles left on my pads.
I do drive aggressively so I'm not surprised I need to replace my pads more often, especially on a large vehicle. That said pads wearing out at ~10k miles normal?
I was going to just order new pads and install them this weekend but what is going on. Ex currently has about 64k miles on it.
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So making a hard turn this AM truck died. It started right up and didn't see anything else unusual. May be I should start by looking at I.A.C?
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It is a 2000 excursion its got codes # 135 155 443 743 755 1747 And overdrive light is flashing really....
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I just bought this Excursion, well actually traded my motorcycle for it.
When I test drove it the air bag light was on and there was no radio or 3rd row seat in it. The owner told me that he had removed the 3rd row seat (and seat belts) along with the DVD system with headrest monitors at the request of a buyer that wanted the truck without that stuff. He then told me that the air bag light came on when he removed the DVD system. The truck was also missing the wiper arms.
I explained that I was interested in the truck but ONLY if the above problems were fixed.
The next day he calls me to tell me that everything has been taken care of and we could make the trade whenever I was ready.
So I rode my bike to him. The 3rd row seat had been installed and the wipers were fixed. He had installed a different radio and told me it would have taken him all day to get the DVD back in but he would give me the system and I could install it. I figured ok, I don't mind doing that and I can make sure it is done right. The air bag light was off, so I made the deal.
Driving home I noticed the speedometer was not working and that the truck wandered a lot. I noticed the wander on the test drive but didn't think it was as bad as it now was. About a mile from my house I could smell hot brakes. Before I smelled the brakes I called the guy and told him about the issues and that I would take a quick look in the morning in the daylight. He assured me that he would take care of any problems that I found.
The next day I pulled the gauge cluster to see if there was a loose wire... there wasn't. But I did find that the air bag light wasn't on anymore because the bulb was removed. At this point I was very upset and called him and text his wife and got no answer. Since I couldn't really drive the truck with the dash pulled apart, I put it back together and decided to look at the rear brake where the smell was coming from. Around this time I noticed that the 3rd row seatbelts were not installed. Also that the truck is riding on C load range tires with a bit of dry rot.
I went to pull the rear wheel and the lug nuts were those spline ones where you need a key. Of course the key wasn't in the truck. I was however able to get a 3/4" socket on them to get the lugs loose. I found the brake problem to be a caliper mounting pin was rusted in place not allowing full retraction of the pads from the rotor. I figured this one wasn't his fault as I didn't notice it the day before. So I ordered new caliper mounts and hardware from Rock Auto. It was going to take a couple of days to get the parts so I drove my car to work the work next day.
After work I stopped by his shop. He gave me the key for the wheels and explained to me that he paid a guy $200 to fix the air bag light and that he was going to go over and demand his money back. He also told me that the seat belts were tucked in behind the interior panels and they could be just pulled out and bolted up. I gave the guy the benefit of the doubt and went home.
After my brake parts came in I installed them without issue even though I had to work in the rain to do it. I wanted this truck on the road and my car is having some issues that need me to park it and work on it some. I have been driving the truck for a couple days and haven't been feeling very well.
Today I decided to pull the interior panels and install the seat belts. Well on the driver's side the retracting part was there but no belt coming out of it and the bracket that goes to the other end of the belt and bolts in the floor was broken and part still bolted to the floor. The passenger side was a little better, all of it was in the panel like he said, however the part where it bolts to the floor was rusted and wouldn't unbolt from the floor so it appears that the anchor was just ripped up out of the floor.
Needless to say I am not real happy right now. However I have titled and registered the truck and he has the signed title to my bike and I do not know if he has titled it yet.
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the wifey went out to the Ex this morning to make a coffee run and came right back in. "truck won't start" hands me the keys. So I go out there and turn key, ALL lights and power comes on but when you try and crank it there's a tiny 'click' and then NOTHING AT ALL. Alternator's brand new and so is the battery (less than 2 months old).
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2005 Excursion v10 137000 miles I am experiencing a rough idle only after the truck has been idling for a while 5+ min or so. On cold start warm start doesn't make a difference truck runs perfectly until it's been idling for a few min then starts a looping idle tach drops down to around 4-500 rpm motor sounds almost like a misfire I can press on the gas and it sputters up until it's running over 1200 rpm then smooths out and runs perfectly until it's allowed to idle for a few min then just repeats no codes are present no check engine light at all
I changed out plugs and coil packs at 100000 miles roughly year and a half ago (motorcraft parts) problem started just recently I have double checked all connections are good at plugs and at fuel injectors from what I've read up on from this forum it sounds like I could be experiencing an IAC issue or possibly an EGR issue I have checked all the rubber hoses associated with both systems and all are in good shape hold vacuum as they should are there any tests that I could perform on the IAC or the EGR to determine if it's one of those I'm trying to avoid throwing parts at it if possible, or is there anything else that I should be checking oh also cleaned the mass air flow a few days ago no changes
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I pulled the EX into the driveway today and as soon I put it in park as I was turning it off there was a loud pop / bang noise somewhere in the front. My husband was already taking it to get new tires so I told him about it and he left to go get the new tires. He said he right away noticed it pulling real bad to the right (I did not notice this and I am VERY in tune with my truck). When he got to the tire place they brought out a big bolt they found in one of the front tires. He said it drove fine all the way home after he got the tires put on. I get in it to run an errand after he brings it back and immediately notice it rides lower. We had the exact same tires put on it that we always do. I also notice a rattle noise and feeling under my left foot that is sitting on the floor as I am driving. I wonder if I broke a shock or something but he looked and says he can't see anything broken. I have a 9 hour trip to go on with my children soon so needless to say I am a little concerned.
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So my wife was driving my EX today... she heard a noise and then the truck would barely drive. I went and checked it and i lost the exhaust pipe between cat and muffler (right below the second row) I also found 4 bared wires that had been ripped apart.
Exhaust broke loose and wrapped around drive shaft and ripped the sensor wires apart and threw the pipe somewhere? So I am assuming that there was an oxygen sensor located on that portion of exhaust that is now lost.
I thought no big deal I will just drive to a muffler shop and get it fixed, but the Ex would barely move. So i guess i will have to tow it, how I can get the truck to run missing the pipe and sensor.
My questions are:
Is that an oxygen sensor that goes into the exhaust pipe?
If so, can i just buy the sensor and pigtail, wire it and then drive to get exhaust fixed?
Is there a way for me to drive it without wiring in a new sensor instead of paying for a tow?
2004 6.8L limited....
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