the wifey went out to the Ex this morning to make a coffee run and came right back in. "truck won't start" hands me the keys. So I go out there and turn key, ALL lights and power comes on but when you try and crank it there's a tiny 'click' and then NOTHING AT ALL. Alternator's brand new and so is the battery (less than 2 months old).
View 14 RepliesMy 2000 Excursion 7.3 Limited started something all new this week. No brake lights, signal lights or flashers. The signal flasher relay is only a couple months old, but I don't think that's the issue. If I sit for just a moment with door open or park lights on, the truck is too week to start. Batteries seem fine and ALT is 14 volt charging when running (ALT replaced with used ALT about a month ago). Further, it has started having long starts like the glow plugs are not cycling. Any clue as to what might be going on?
View 1 RepliesFirst time it acted up truck started after it cooled down , and several other times I had the same outcome, last week it left me stranded and now it won't start at all, Not getting any fuel...
View 14 RepliesI just bought the truck and the previous owner said sometimes when the truck is parked in an angle, like in a drive way it will not start unless you use a screw driver and touch both posts on the solenoid. It happened to me today and I do not like it and need to find the cause? Why it would do this?
View 9 RepliesBeen having an odd problem with getting my truck to start. Pass couple of days I've gotten out from work and gone to start the truck. It cranks just fine but wont start, acts like there is no gas. Let it for a minute or two and try again and it will start right up and keep running with no other problems. Go to leave for the work the next day and the same issue. Weird thing is the problem only seems to happen when its cold out 30F so or below. I was thinking fuel pump but I'm not sure. What to check?
Edit Its a 2002 Excursion XLT with the gas 5.4
Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
So I started to notice a vibration only when the truck is under power at about 65 plus MPH...
Now I already know I have a driver's side front wheel hub that needs replaced and the springs are typical Excursion springs (they all 4 need replaced), but this is the first time I have experienced the vibration.
Before you ask...the steering wheel does not vibrate. The vibrations can be felt at my feet and they create a low toned droning vibration that starts at about 65 mph.
When I'm cruising down the highway at 75 mph and take my foot of the accelerator, the noise and vibration basically goes away.
My diagnosis (and a few probably "stupid" questions): u-joints are going bad...
Could it possible be something else? How long they may last before I "have" to change them? What is the worst thing that could happen if they completely fail?
2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
View 12 Replies2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
View 3 RepliesWife got home from work the other day with no problems and then a couple hours later tried to go start excursion to leave and battery was dead. I tried jumping it only to find out that once the battery started getting juice in it the gauge warning lights started to illuminate. Wouldn't start with being jumped so put the battery on charge for a couple hours and still no go. Took the battery into napa and they tested it and said it was bad.
Put new battery into it and am still stuck with the same problems. Hook the battery up and no key in the ignition and the warning lights around the exterior of the gauges are lit up. This is all on a 2000 v10 excursion. Up until now we have not had any problems with this truck. Wife daily drives it with no problems.
I have a 2000 ex 7.3 and a couple of days ago I had the batteries die on me. Quick boost and it fired right up, drove it around for the rest of the day no issues at all. Yesterday I had a really hard time with the first start of the day, turned over slowly, but caught itself and fired up. I plugged in my OBDII adapter and fired up Torque on my phone and saw that I had 14.3 V about 30 seconds after the truck started. Took my father to pick up his car about 10 mins away, shut the truck off, and again, it turned over slow, was a hard start.
Drove it around for about 45 mins after that and everything seemed great. Today it won't even start...the WTS light comes on, everything sounds and seems normal, then when I go to start the truck it just "clicks"...Turn the headlights on and try to start it, and the lights don't even dim. So I checked and cleaned the battery cables and the starter cable...still no start. What it might be? I'm hoping that its a ground somewhere but wouldn't know where to being looking..
I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4. Of course it didn't do this when we test drove it, but as soon as we put the money down the problem started. When you start the truck, the interior lights start blinking. I thought it was a door ajar warning, but after testing the doors, it doesn't stop blinking.
Sometimes it will stop when you put it in gear, sometimes it starts again. some times it stops for a few seconds and then starts again. So far it has always stopped blinking after we have driven for a little while. It seems like it will sometimes stop when I fiddle with the 4 wheel drive shifter.
EGR marbles -- the chunks of carbon that come loose from the EGR cooler / intake manifold and stick the EGR valve open?
I've been getting these on 3 recent occasions, maybe 100 miles or so apart. The truck loses pretty much all power below 2000 rpm, smokes and stinks bad until I pull the EGR valve and dump these out. I'm trying to decide if I need to dig in and do a new EGR cooler and oil cooler. I've read the FordDoctorsDTS article suggesting these are caused by and coming from a leaking EGR cooler (possibly only when very hot) over time.
I'm not currently losing any coolant that I can tell, but was losing some a few months ago (during warmer weather), but also had a leaky heater valve that I replaced at the time. Not sure if the leaky valve would account for the total coolant loss (I lost over a gallon in a few weeks).
Here's the additional details:
- 2004 Excursion with just over 109K miles
- Replaced faulty EGR valve (was sticking open) about 300 miles ago
- Replaced stock turbo with new powermax turbo 300 miles ago. Old was rusty and pitted with sticking unison ring.
- I just did a total coolant flush, oil cooler back-flush, Restore and Restore+ and added new coolant filter
- Replaced thermostat during coolant flush. ECT stays pretty close to 190 degress when warmed up.
- ECT/EOT delta is mostly between 15 to 18 degrees, sometimes slightly lower or higher. Not much change after the coolant flush, but may be slightly improved.
- I've been doing pretty regular wide open throttle tests during recent test drives with the new parts above (I'm thinking this may have broken some of this stuff loose).
Here's today's marbles. They're all dry and will crumble if crushed. They are dull gray on the inside - not metallic as they kind of look here............
Truck is a 2000 Excursion, V10 4x4 auto about 160k miles. Tried searching couldn't find anything relevant The problem is it wont start, not even a solenoid click, and the interior lights are blinking as if they were hooked to the turn signals (steady blinking and you can hear/feel the relay in the fusebox clicking). Turning on the key, hazard flashers or headlights makes the blinking go away, turning them back off starts it up again.
The blinking also effects the power windows (the windows go up about 1 inch at a time in time with the blinks). Hitting the panic button on the keyfob causes the horn to go off very faintly in time with the blinking. Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery did nothing. Checked all the fuses, they were all fine, the #1 and #2 position relays (the ones in the fusebox) are clicking in time with the blinking. The truck started doing this suddenly and with no warning (no dead batteries, jump starts or anything recently).
Well I have got a 2000 Excursion with v10 that I've been having some electrical problems with lately. All started with a no start issue and gauge cluster warning lights staying on along with fuel and volt gauges reading without the keys being in the ignition. Took it in to the dealership to get looked at and they are saying it needs a new fuse box and gem module put in it. Was also told that it is an obsolete part and gonna be tricky trying to find the correct one for my truck as it needs to be identical to what my truck has as options. Is there any other places out there making new ones or fixing gem modules? Dealership pretty much told me if they can't find a new gem module for it that the truck is pretty much dead in the water.
View 3 RepliesMy Escape is starting to have starting problems. I go to start it and all of the instrument cluster warning lights come on, but the truck doesn't start. If I wait a little while, all of the sudden it starts but all of the sudden the cluster lights start flashing, the various warning beeps sound off, the emergency flashers go off, etc. This lasts anywhere from 5 to 10 minutes until everything resets and goes back to normal. What is causing this?
View 1 RepliesI removed all 8 injectors because my truck felt like it had a dead cylinder one morning after I did oil change and filter and fuel filters. Truck ran great the day of the fluid change. The next morning however truck was hard to start no power at all nothing. Felt like a dead cylinder so removed all 8 injectors and ohm them all ohm at 0.4 to 0.5 except number 4 injector it ohm at 0.4 and 0.7 that's not in spec right or am I wrong? Do I need a new solenoid? Keep in mind tho number 5 and 8 injectors had contribution codes but they ohm good. So I'm going to tear the injectors apart and see what's what. But my question is do I need to replace number 4 injector solenoid?
View 3 RepliesWiring up my Clearance lights for top of the cab, and for my running boards.
According to my diagrams there is a brown wire running along the passenger kick panel and down the gutter to the rear of the X.
ok first off my 4wd has no power at the switch. 2nd I have no dome lights or overhead console lights (but the lights in teh very back work) and the ac controls up top work. either of these common issues or just time to break out a test light and start checking wires?
View 11 RepliesMy 2007 F150's turn signals and hazard lights quit working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Once I pulled the old fuse out the truck wouldn't start at all. What happened?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 EX 7.3L ... The power windows aren't working and neither is the interior lights. I am hoping it is a couple of fuses. Problem is that I can't find a fuse diagram and I don't have any knowledge about changing the fuses. Do I need to change them both under the hood and under the dash? Which fuses I need to look at changing?
View 5 Replies