Ford Excursion :: Transmission Will Shake And Shudder At Lower Speeds And While Idling
Jun 3, 2014
I have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
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So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
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About 6 months ago I bought a '08 GS 350 CPO. Love the car but after a month or two of ownership, on light acceleration 3rd and 4th gears will shudder. The whole car will buck and shake, but if I give it more gas it will smooth out. Doesn't seem to be the engine, I suspect more the transmission. Of course I took it in and they "could not reproduce the problem"... Is this just a normal characteristic of the car?
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I had a 2013 Elantra that I traded in for my new Accent. The last 6 months that I had my Elantra, the transmission was slipping like crazy. Mostly when it was cold, and at lower speeds. I started noticing this while the car only had 20000 km's on it. Personally, I think it had something to do with contaminants in the fluid. I told the dealership this but they just kind of dismissed it and said it probably just had something to do with the ECU messing up the shift timing or something to that extent. They made an "adjustment" but the problem didn't go away.
It got me thinking that since an automatic transmission has so many parts, wouldn't it be fair to say that metal particles from all these newly machined pieces and edges could have some initial deterioration causing a build-up of contaminants? I think a transmission flush would've resolved the issue. That's a lot cheaper than a full tranny swap down the road while the car is still under warranty, isn't it Hyundai? It's their problem now though.
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New to the R, and recently the transmission seems to be making some noise throughout lower gears at low speeds, when the clutch is engaged the noise goes away, I figured it was the throwout bearing, but now my transmission now refuses to let me into 2nd gear and also reverse.
I changed the transmission fluid hoping it would eliminate the noise a bit, and saw very small metal shavings in the old fluid. I'm now worried I have a serious transmission issue... Are these signs of major transmission issues or should I be checking linkage? Any common transmission problems with the R I might be experiencing?
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My trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
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I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
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In my case, from a stop, when I accelerate only in a turn left or right I get a shudder and shake from my rear end and it seems to be worse when the truck or air temp is colder.
well I went with the most basic thing first, popped the diff cover off, drained all the fluid, wiped out as much as I could get out of the collection area in the bottom. put a new gasket on and a little rtv, replaced cover. pulled the plug and cleaned off the shavings from the magnet and put new oil in it (I used Valvoline 75-90 with the friction modifier already in it, said limited slip right on the bottle)
test drove it around the block about a hundred times making left and right turns and the shudder and shake seemed to constantly decrease until it was perfectly smooth and noiseless!!! so that seemed to be an easy fix however I will report back to see what happens when I take it out cold in the morning.
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I've got a 12 FX4 SC 6.5' w/Ecoboost. After 1K miles I began to develop a shudder/shake in the tranny-driveshaft passing through 1500 rpm. 4 dealers, 6 overnights and 2 escalations, I finally am told there is a design problem in the pre Jan 12 trucks. Fixed with frame mod to manufacturing process after Jan, but no solution for current owners with the problem. I replaced my 07 FX4 SC with this truck and loved it for the first 1K miles. Now I hate driving it, especially in traffic (lots of cycles through 1500 rpm).
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Every once in a while, while idling at a light/stop-sign/etc, I get a shudder in the engine... usually all is smooth as silk, and then its like some fat kid just jumped inside the engine compartment (I'm exaggerating) ok, a very small fat kid its like weight shifted somewhere and you feel the ripple from it.
I did find this old thread [URL] .... but doesn't look like much came of it. I don't really suspect its a big problem, but definitely nothing I've experienced since 4-5 VWs ago, when I had a throttle that would race up (but the engine revs don't seem to be changing during this).
Car is in the shop for 10k today anyway, so I figured I'd have them take a quick check. (gotta see if they can do anything for the lackluster AC too).
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I have a 2005 Subaru Outback, 3.0 H6, LL Bean, 5 speed auto. 150,000 miles. No engine codes.
I bought it took two years privately. I didn't notice during the test drive, but it has a shake/shudder at 18-20mph and at 55-60mph. Only at those speeds and only during acceleration. During light acceleration it isn't noticeable, but hard acceleration particularly on a hill at 55-60 the car can shake quite violently. Probably 50% of the time the 18-20mph shudder doesn't occur. It feels like the whole of the front of the car is shaking from side to side.
It doesn't matter what gear it's in - auto/auto sport/manual 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th. So it's not engine rpm related. I've had the transmission fluid flushed. I've had two sets of tires. I've had the prop shaft replaced. It still does it, and it hasn't got better or worse. It happens both during straight line and turns.
The engine runs smooth and the gear shifts are crisp and smooth. Our local dealer doesn't know what it is (they suggested prop shaft) and our highly recommended local transmission shop doesn't know what it is. All CV joints have been checked.
I think the big clue here is that it is very vehicle speed dependent; 18-20 and 55-60mph.Could it be something to do with the transfer clutches? Does this transmission have an electronic control computer that needs an update? (This is a first year model). Is there vehicle speed sensor used by the transmission that could be bad but that wouldn't trigger an engine code? Unfortunately I can't disable the rear wheel drive like on the 4 speed transmissions, there is no fuse to do that.
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I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
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A friend of mine has a '93 Explorer 4x4 with an automatic. He's getting an intermittent shake at highway speeds. It shows up every 5-10 minutes or so. Apparently the problem has been going on for a few months now. I took it for a test drive the other day, and it feels similar to driving on rumble strips. It shakes in both 2wd and 4wd, but he says it seems worse in 4wd. The vibration feels more like it's coming through the seat than the steering wheel. The vibration will go away if you take the foot off of the accelerator, or if you pull it down into Drive. He's got about 220K miles on it. The previous owner said the transmission was rebuilt about 30K miles ago, but who knows. He's had it in the shop for a couple of days, and they've checked the usual suspects - u-joints, ball joints, and the sort.
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I purchased a 2003 F-150 Screw a few months back. Within a week I noticed a noise that sounded like a bad ujoint. To it to a shop and they confirmed it. They told me they replaced both. I only drive about 4 miles to work around 40 mph. Friday I had to go out of town and this was the trucks 1st road trip. I noticed that around 55 the truck feels fine. At 65 there is a shake / vibration. At 75 it is very noticeable. At 1st I though front end, but after a few hour I noticed the feeling can be felt in the seat of my pants type of thing. Or my foot on the kicker panel. Truck has 27K on it.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE and my front passenger seat seems to shake/shudder alot. It constantly shudders and makes so much noise when no one is sitting in it, that it's driving me crazy! I can't tolerate the noise of it. If I go over a bump it shudders, if i'm driving on a rough highway, it shudders and shakes so badly that I have to put my hand on it to make it stop. It makes squeaky noises as well. It doesn't happen when driving on smooth surface.
Secondly, the center dash is very squeaky, and made out of hard plastic. I feel there is no insulation behind, and thus it squeaks whenever I go over a bump. What steps did you take to resolve it?
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I'm having trouble with my Taurus 2003 and the mechanic is struggling to find anything wrong;When idling, if I turn on the A/C on the car will start to shudder intermittently. It feels kinda like an engine misfire...The mechanic replaced the spark plugs and the trouble seemed to disappear but was back again after a number of weeks. When I took the car back the oil-seal was leaking so I got those replaced. It may possibly have been better for a few days [It's a bit difficult to gauge as the problem is somewhat intermittent] but then the problem was back.
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I've had my 07 HD F150 into the dealer a few times for this issue and they have not been able to repair it. When I use the brakes especially at higher speeds you can feel them turning like a warped rotor, sometimes it will make the steering wheel shake. It does it with both my summer tires (22") and my winter tires (17"). Even at slow speeds you can feel it.
The dealer keeps checking and says that the fronts are fine, last time they machined the rear rotors and said it was fixed. To me the fronts look pretty grooved but they keep saying they are fine. Which didn't make sense to me. The truck stops well and has good feel and power but I get this warped rotor feeling. Is the dealer missing something?
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My dads 2012 f250 6.7 shakes SOMETIMES at speeds anywhere from 30 to 65mph he had ford look at it they said that everything looked fine, all the normal items were checked. How can something like that just show up for a few minutes then go away for days at a time. He said it shakes the whole truck then he slows down it goes away then speed back up and its gone. He does need new tires and balanced but I would think if that was the issue it would be a consistent shake or am I wrong?
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I have a 2011 f250 6.2 cclb and it shakes around 70 to 75 mph. Not terribly but enough to annoy the crap out of me. Now I have put new tires on it recently, new Rancho 9900 adjustable shocks, I have it aligned regularly and tires rotated and balanced every 5000 miles or so. I have had two dealerships look at and my local shop and they can't see anything visibly wrong with it.
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Just bought a 1998 5.4l F-150 Lariat. 136,000 miles.
Question about the overdrive button on trans handle. When I push the button, I don't see any light turn on (or off) and I don't feel any change in the gear ratio or increase/decrease in rpm's. I assume since the button in there marked "overdrive" that the vehicle in fact was equipped with it. Could it be a bad button, fuse, or ?
Also, it just started the shudder/hesitation at certain speeds that I see a lot on these threads. Seems like that is a coil issue as the description in many threads is exactly what I am experiencing to incl the rotten egg/fuel odor. However, it started the same day (not same time, later same day) I decided to push the overdrive button while checking out all the things on the truck.
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We have a 2006 F150 w/new engine, new everything but transmission and cat. converter. When driving in warm weather with the AC on and at low speeds or idle the engine will knock and want to cut out but you rev and turn off the AC and it stops. Only with AC on. We replaced fuel filter, fan throttle took to dealer and updated the software which it stopped for 3 days and started again today. Could it have to do with AC compressor or low refrigerant?
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