Ford Excursion :: Transmission Goes Into High Pressure When Reached Cruising Speed
Oct 20, 2012
I've got a 03 x with the 6.8 2wd 4r100. It was flaring pretty bad for a while going into lock up, about 2 months ago the flare went away now NO lockup. Its taking more pedal to get moving and alot more slip, once you reach cruising speed tranny goes into high pressure. Told to replace the selonoid pack, got one use from a tranny shop from a tranny that lost reverse, got it home took mine out and found out the new one is not PWM and mine is, I tested my selonoid by putting 12v to pin 1 and 4 and nothing (on the pwm pack) did it to the new pack and it works. My question is what will happen if I put the non pwm in my tranny that originally had pwm pack in it?
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I have a 2003 Ford Excursion with the high pressure line leaking. My guess is that the original line had a rubber hose and was replaced with a 3/8" ID high pressure hose. My problem is that I can not get the 3/8" ID replacement hose over the second larger bulge on the line going to the radiator cooler. What am I doing wrong?
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles.
Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure. Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still.
The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it.
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2000 Hyundai Sonata 2.4 L engine, transmission drops from 4th gear to 3rd gear at cruising speed (65mph) and locks into 3rd gear, I have to stop and turn the key off and start the engine again to reset the A/T what do you think is happening?
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My buddy has a 97 f350 with a 460. When he accelerates his HVAC changes from vent to defrost then back when the desired speed is reached. What can be causing this?
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I have an 01 2wd 6.8L with 143K. I was wanting to check out the AC before summer gets too hot. I was wondering if low and hi side pressures should be taken at idle with front and rear on max or with the idle around say 1500rpm? I have a 134a pressure chart and it says that at outside of 85 degrees it should read 45 and 255 approx.
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So driving over the pass last weekend, I noticed as I reached about 15 psi on my boost gauge the needle started to stumble/flicker and I could audibly hear a "pffsssfftst" at that same time, back down away from 15lbs boost and the noise goes away? I am leaning towards a boost leak, it sounded like it was coming from the driver side anyways. I hate to just assume it is something, and mindlessly throw parts at it, on the other hand I know that is one way to start replacing old worn out parts.... So I am thinking start at ordering some new CAC boots from riffraff, anything else I could consider? Could be a worn out spring on the wastgate?
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Title pretty much states it. A while back both my ABS and my ESP light would come on after I reached a speed of 18mph. After some research here I figured it was just a dirty sensor. So I cleaned the front ones and still haven't got around to the rear, but I told my mechanic to scan it. He says I need a new ABS pump which I am hoping, he is wrong. Printout says...
01276-ABS Hydraulic Pump(V64)
008-Implausible Signal - Intermittent
008-Implausible Signal - Intermittent
So I am hoping it is just dirty or unplugged and not the ABS pump.
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How "ECO" mode actually works?
When I first got my new 2012 Camry, I noticed ECO light would come on mostly on the highway when I reached certain speeds, and seemed to come on more when I had air conditioning on.
However, now it seems more often the ECO light is on all the time, even when I come to a complete stops. Just wondering if this is normal or do I need to take it in to be checked out or what?
I know ECO mode works with speeds and air conditioning. I do notice when ECO light comes on, the AC doesn't seem to be as cold.... I want my AC working as cool as possible!!! It's constantly over 100 degrees here in San Antonio in the summer.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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If we have the air on a medium or high setting (A/C or just vent air) and coming out of the middle vents (at your face in other words), then turn the car off with the fan speed on that medium to high setting, then turn the car on later, the air comes out of the defroster (windshield) instead, even though the middle (face) setting is selected.
I have to turn the air fan speed right down to the lowest setting, then the air switches to the vents (face), and I can then turn the fan speed back up again. Its like it has a weak flap or something in the dash that diverts the air around. Car is an 03 6.0l limited with the "climate control" (the buttons and digital display).
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Recently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
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This is on my 99 v10 Superduty. What I'm hearing sounds like high pressure fluid passing through a restriction. I only hear it when in drive or reverse while sitting still. The noise goes away once I get moving a couple of miles per hour. It just started making this noise within the last week.
I change the fluid every other oil change (about 6000mi on the last change) and am using M1 Synth in it. I only drive 10min between work and home so it probably barely gets warm. I don't know yet if it there hot. I'll have take it up the hill and back to see if it is temperature related.
Other then the noise it still drives and shifts fine. But it is pretty loud sitting at the drive through window. I'm going to drain it and change the filter this weekend and see how the fluid looks. Any thing else I should look at or other possibilities? I crawled under it last night and I think the noise is coming from the TC.
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I recently purchased a 2004 Excursion Limited v10 with 129,000 miles.
It has developed a strange sound only when it is shifting to the high gear where the tach drops down to abour 1500 rpms.
It sounds like a 'whump' momentarily, but doesn't seem to be slipping after that. I don't know if the tranny fluid has been changed, although it looks clear on the dipstick.
One mechanic said they would not do a transmission flush on a vehicle with more than 75,000 miles because they didn't want to be responsible for tranny problems caused by doing that. What's going on?
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About 11 months ago I had hard shifting with the 2000 Intrigue.. Local Tranny shop diagnosed P1811 and replaced the pressure control solonoid. Then about 10,000 miles later problem occurred again. Transmission shop said they would either redo the solenoid or rebuild the transmission. I asked for a new solenoid.
Now today I'm having P1811 again. Clear it for a week and it comes back. Transmission is going into high pressure mode making driving very harsh.
PCS Solenoid shows operation at 60% duty cycle with approximately 1 volt signal. Shifting times are about 0.4-0.5 whenever I have a scan tool on it. What is reasonable shift times for the 4T65E?
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Been having a very light vibration when cruising at speed as well as on some lower speed shifts and finally crawled under the truck today to check for drivetrain play. Other than the amazingly soft and sloppy transmission mount I noticed a TON of play in the driveshaft transmission yolk. Didn't feel like the u-joint but actually the tailshaft yolk. Dealer said on the phone they have seen this on a few of the newer trucks and it *should* be covered under the power train warranty. I have the subercab with the 1 piece aluminum driveshaft.
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I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
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As the title says the beast died on me yesterday morning going into work.
Situation : 5 F @ 7 Am
1/4 tank of fuel that has been treated
cruising at 70 MPH on the highway using the cruise
Going into work the other day the truck died on me as i cruised along at 70 MPH on cruise, I go to get out of the way of a car. As, I step on the accelerator X falls on its face. I look at the dash and there are no idiot lights on, gauges all look good. I navigate to the shoulder 3 lanes over and park it. As soon as it is in park it dies and will not restart.
I call AAA and sit there waiting for the truck to show up. After about 10 mins I try to start it again it stumbles and dies. 2nd try it fires up and is running rough. I make it to the nearest gas station and fill up. Then I go to the parts store and pick up the 911 fuel treatment and put it in the tank. I also use a scan tool on it and no codes. Truck ran fine after all this.
I go to start it after work, it starts and dies. I start it again and it sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders and there is a large puff of smoke out the exhaust which goes away after it is started.
After it warms up it runs and drives fine, no issues! So I looked at my extension cord I plug it into and realize that the timer was bad. New timer and verify it works. Go to start it today and it starts right up and idles and runs fine. Is it possible that the fuel gelled up due to the timer being bad and the block heater not turning on? Or am I missing something?
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I have a 1994 4x2 shortbed standard cab Ranger XLT. It has the 4.0 OHV engine, A4LD Automatic transmission, and 195,000 miles. Under average driving conditions, it operates fine. It shifts up through the gears much like it always has, although the shifts may not be quite as firm as they used to be.
If I'm at cruising speed and step harder on the accelerator, it downshifts, RPMs increase, and it upshifts rather poorly, & then I feel a thump, (maybe the torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be?), and I'm in the higher gear. This seems to happen when it upshifts from 3rd to 4th gears for sure, maybe from 2nd to 3rd, but I'm not sure.
Again, it only seems to happen when I attempt to speed up from cruising speed, not from a stand-still. The transmission fluid and filter have been changed at regular intervals, and the truck has never been abused. The fluid is red in color, doesn't smell burnt, and the level is correct. I don't want to get rid of this truck if I can avoid it. It has been super-reliable and mostly trouble-free for the 16 years I've owned it. What might be wrong with it?
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My '90 Ranger is experiencing a pretty bad misfire after doing a tune-up. I changed the plugs (gapped to .045), wires, distibutor cap, rotor button, air filter, fuel filter, and cleaned the IAC. It had a barely noticeable miss before the tune up, that's why I did it. Now, it's pretty horrible.
At idle, it's definitely noticeable, and at cruising speeds (RPM's below 3K) it bucks and surges. The weird part about it is WOT runs are as smooth and (somewhat) powerful as ever! At idle in neutral it will revv up just fine without any hesitation as well.
First thing I did was check the firing order, again and again. Made sure all my wires were properly seated on the plugs and on the distributor prongs. Pulled the plugs back out, they were all clean and properly gapped. I pulled the wires off one by one to try to isolate the misfire, but every plug wire I removed made around the same impact on the motor.
Next I ran codes. KOEO, I got code 95 - fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Don't know what to do about this. Fuel pumps comes on at the turn of the key, relay clicks... KOER, I got 11 (pass code), so nothing there.
Then I hooked a fuel pressure gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail, and at idle pressure was a steady 35 PSI. I also removed the vac. line to the FPR while running to see if gas came out. I checked for vac. leaks as well.
Now not sure what to check now. I've checked everything I know to check, but nothing works....
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I have a 2008 F250 SD 5.4L with 335,000KM's(200,000+miles).
The engine light came on a few weeks ago and I cannot seem to get rid of it. I have also noticed when I'm accelerating hard at higher speeds/RPM's the engine light flashes?? After when I get to the cruising speed and let off the gas pedal the engine light stops flashing and stays solid. Also when accelerating hard there seems to be a hesitation, almost like the engine is choking itself. Once it gets passed the hesitation point during hard accelerating it seems fine? I have ran about 6 bottles of Seafood through the engine and gas tank. It definitely worked out but still has the hesitation, flashing engine light syndrome...I have changed the following with still no luck...
-Spark Plugs
-Coil on Plug
-Fuel Injectors
-Cam Phase sensors
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