Ford Excursion :: Transmission Shifter Arm Replacement?
Nov 15, 2012
Overdrive off button hasn't worked in a couple years and there is no power to the switch so I figure the wires across the column are damaged. Even after replacing the button a couple times the ends were always falling off so I'm ready to replace the entire shifter arm assembly. I also need to replace the bushings since the arm is loose.
I will also be installing yet another turn signal since the one from Rock Auto didn't last long. The new one will be from Auto Zone, which said the shifter arm is a dealer only item.
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My 1983 Ranger is in the shop. I'm being told that I need to replace the shifter assembly. I understand that this is a Mazda part, from a TK5 transmission. These parts are interchangable between bronco ii's of the same era.
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I've been experiencing the ever so popular sloppy shifter lever in my 02 excursion. So naturally I started prowling around the site looking for answers to my issues. I have ensured both of the torx bolts are present and tight at the end of the shift tube on the bracket that connects to the shifter cable and have replaced the shift tube (It was worn out) and it worked great but has not completely fixed the issue so today I crawled underneath the truck to try and adjust the shift cable and have found that the detent in the shift linkage from the gear position sensor that runs to the shift mechanism (not sure what it's called) that is inside the transmission is really nonexistent, it is effortless to move it from P to R but from R to N is good and stiff like it should be but from N to D and D to 2 is effortless. I have zero experience with what creates the detent inside of the transmission and looking for a link or pictures or write up something that I can look over and attempt to educate myself on before I dive in to this blind....
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My daily driver is a Ford pickup. But we recently acquired a 2003 Excursion.
-5.4L V8
-3.73 rear end
-2WD
It is an Eddie Bauer, and despite its age and 150k miles, it is in really nice shape. It runs and shifts very smoothly. So far, we've replaced the rear glass hydraulics, put 4 new tires and a wheel alignment on it, replaced one brake line from the front to the rear, replaced a cracked rim and one missing wheel hub cap. The driver's seat base cushion leather is ripped, but I procured a replacement leather seat cushion cover which is brand new and a perfect match to the original two-tone leather.
Otherwise, the radio works fine, A/C front and rear is ice cold. The shifter linkage is very stiff and not accurate. I'm guessing the switch selector on the outside of the transmission is failing?
The driver's side power window does not work, and the reverse sensing system has only worked once. The switch always says "off" and if you push it, it won't stay in the "on" setting.
But anyway, here it is .....
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with the gearbox stick shifter and housing for it. This has a remote gear selector as the truck was a C.O.E. so gearbox was behind the cab. I have seen these gearboxes with a stick shift coming straight out of the top of the box, which is what I need but my gearbox case is different although the 6 bolt fixing for the gear selector looks the same. What I need is someone to crawl under their truck and get the 10 digit model number off the truck gearbox which has a stick shift so I can cross reference the part numbers to see if the stick shift will fit my box.
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So lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
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My 2000 ford excursion gauges fuse keeps popping. It started earlier this year and I couldn't pin point when it would pop. Now I'm sure after 30.00 worth of fuses that it happens when I change the gear shifter from park or rev to drive.
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Life long fan of Toyota cars. Drove all cars above 250 K miles. The only way I lost them is through minor accidents or just donated them. Just got a 2004 toyota Camry with 165 K miles( it may sound a lot for others , for me its just beginning) . The Shifter light is out. How to replace it.
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My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
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I cannot locate a picture of where the manual 4wd shifter mounts up to the transmission.
I am finishing up 4wd'ing my F550, but am not exactly sure how the shifter bolts up. Can someone take their boot and bezel off and take a couple photos of how the shifter mounts to the 5R100W by any chanc?
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I got this code and symptoms of 1-2 hard shift and no torque converter lockup. No flashing overdrive light on shifter. If I switch off engine all shifts are smooth until I pass 45mph. I would feel the TCC lockup. This doesn't happen the as i come to a stop I get a harsh 2-1 shift. Key off restart then shifts smoothly up and down provided I dont exceed the TCC lockup speed. This leads me to the TCC solenoid I think. Fluid has been changed regularly.
Had to drive 300 miles to get home. Only for the plate trans cooler the fluid would have overheated as on inclines on cruise control the engine would rev to 3k to keep the speed at 70mph and I could see the fluid temp increasing. Fuel consumption was very bad almost a full tank (with no ac). Doing some research there is talk about valve gasket blowout Epc solenoids etc, though these were for Rangers and Explorers, no real mention of Aerostar.
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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Out of nowhere the car wont go into 5th, so I need to check the cables adjustment and if that doesn't work go from there. This car as of now is nothing more than a daily driver, never driven hard. I bought it last June with 40k on it and as of today it sits at 68k. Happened Friday worked fine on the commute to work, but on the way home once I got on the highway I noticed it would not engage 5th. Does not grind, pop, or anything. It is like the shifter goes into 5th but the cable has been shortened to not engage. This may be the issue but reverse, and 1st-4th work great with no issues.
I also read about the narrow oiling holes for the 5th gear and they are very easy to starve when temperatures get too low, which it has been roughly 0-15* here. I also read that the seal on the transmission gear shift unit (0A4301230H) can get worn out and allow back and forth play in the shift unit. Lastly the 5th gear is pretty weak and teeth like to shear off.
I had installed new shifter bushings the week I bought the car, and the fluid was flushed and replaced with Liqui Moly and their MoS2 additive about 5k miles ago. I'm hoping it is just the cables out of alignment due to the cold, but if not I will explore the options, as I have priced out all of the replacement parts and it'll be around $1k to replace the gear, 5th synchros, shift fork, and the gear shift unit. So a 02Q might not be out of the question.
I tried to manually pull up on the selector and move it right into the 5th position. Would not engage, so I am lead to believe that something is either wrong with the selector shaft of the transmission or the 5th gear itself.
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I like to use the braking feature on the transmission shift knob for hard braking and on long slow rolls to a stoplight. Matter of fact I use it quite a bit because recharging the battery and saving a bit on brake wear while using the brake position is nice. It also reminds me a bit of downshifting back in the day. I am a bit concerned that using the shifter almost all the time to assist braking may cause undo stress on the engine in future years.
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I have an 01 Jetta, 2.0L, 5 Speed manual transmission.
The issue seems to be that the shifter wont shift the transmission "all the way" into 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear. When I shift into the gears that are forward on the shifter, it will go into gear, but then the shifter (in the car) moves back toward neutral a little. I can drive in 1st no problem, but in 3rd and 5th some weird stuff happens...
While driving, when I shift from second to third I have to keep my hand on the shifter otherwise I get kicked out of gear. Also, when I drive on the highway, I periodically get kicked out of 5th gear if I don't keep my hand on the shifter (usually, when I let off the gas).
Anyway, being that I've fixed many problems on many cars by searching forums and google, I spent the last few days trying to figure out the problem by looking through the forums, but I have yet to find a solution. I tried adjusting the shift linkage using the method described in the dieselgeek video on youtube [URL] ...., but it didn't work. I'm pretty certain it's not the shifter bushings because i have almost no play in the shifter in neutral.
I had someone cycle through the gears while I watched under the hood, and its clear that the cable that controls the forward and back part of the shifting is not pulling back far enough on the counterweight on the transmission. (When shifting into 1st, 3rd, and 5th.) When the shifter puts the tranny into these gears I can still move the counterweight on the tranny further than the shifter will pull in in the same direction.I tried adjusting the linkage to compensate for this, but the cable is as far into the cable end as it will go...
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I need removing the console on a 2005 Malibu Max. The switch on the shifter will not move the transmission down to 2nd or 1st gear. There was a post by "shadow5599" on 05-05-2009 stating that this problem was caused by a broken wire in the harness under the console leading to the shifter +/- switch. He said it was easy to fix but the console needed to be removed. Later on the same day he posted that he had just posted the instructions on how to remove it. I'm a first time user on this site and I haven't been able to locate those instructions.
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I recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
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When I am slowing down my speed in my 2012 Santa Fe SE and about 0-1 mph, there is a "click" sound that comes from the shifter of the transmission. It can be duplicated.
While this may be perfectly normal, I have only begun to both HEAR it and FEEL it. (at 10,000 miles) it never was this prevalent.
Is it a solenoid?
Is it a switch?
Is it potentially bad news?
I made a video capturing the event! Diagnose Cause Of Sound 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe Transmission - YouTube
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So I just got 42dd shifter bushings and im having some issues!
Installation was no problem but once you complete the install you are supposed to re-adjust the linkage. First you have to lock the shifter in place, both in the cabin and in the engine bay (as shown in this Diesel Geek video: [URL] .... )
The only trouble I'm having is that i cannot locate the locking pin as shown in this integrated engineering picture: [URL] .....
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When going to adjust my DG shifter since it wouldn't go into first I noticed that my L-shaped lever (02J-301-358C) on the tranny was more out then usually and could be pulled straight out with no resistance. I am guessing the piece at the end is also broken and will need to be pulled out, but how will I put the transmission into home mode after?
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I am in need of new radius arm bushings (both sides). How to be able to just unbolt the sway bar, unbolt the shocks, dismount the coil springs so they fall out to the sides and then drop the rear of the radius arms so they could press out the old bushings and insert the new? This is a 2WD and I think the process would be same for an F250 of the same year (2000 - 2004). The reason I ask is because I really, really don't want to have to get down to the king pin level and completely remove the radius arms if I don't have to.
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