Ford Excursion :: Tranny Lines Rusted And Leaking?
Mar 17, 2013
Noticed Tranny Fluid under the Ex last week and after further inspection, it is definitely the lines rusted, by the end of the week it was leaking pretty good with the motor running. Picked up the lines from Ford and bought a 5 gal pail of MerconV from NAPA. Going to replace the tranny fluid after I replace the lines. 109k on the truck and never serviced the trans. Never had an issue with this truck, shifts nice and tight. Found Mark W's Fluid Changing procedure which looks pretty simple.
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I believe my rear AC lines in my 2003 EB V10 X pooped the bed on me today and Ford wants 3K to fix. I'm wondering if I could fix it my self. The leak was a bright green color so I'm assuming it was 134 or what ever in in the AC. The leak is right behind the passenger side of the motor just a little lower than the head. The dealer wants to replace almost everything for 3k but they don't want to budge on just repairing the broken line.
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Ac is leaking where the 2 lines go into the condenser. I went to Ford and bought OEM o-rings thinking it would be an easy fix. HA! New o-rings were put in by a mom and pop garage. Still leaking. Guy said it wasn't, but with my uv light I could clearly see the dye. Went to a recommended guy. He took it apart, cleaned the hoses where the o-rings sit. They were kinda dirty from leakage and stuff so he cleaned them up with a wire brush and 2000 grit.
Recharged, and we both looked with his huge uv light. Bad condenser, drivers side lit up like a night light. Replaced the condenser with an aftermarket condenser. Recharged, STILL LEAKING from where the hoses go into the condenser. Vacuumed down the system... Removed hoses, checked o-ring fit. They are snug on the hoses and have some resistance when plunging the hoses back in. What gives? I'm 360.00 into this this week...
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I bought a 2002 Limited EX, 164K on a 7.3 diesel, its been a California truck its whole life, but still has some "rust" on it... I'm sure it can mostly be wiped away with a rag and some solvent . I mostly bought this vehicle to tow my track car around (1993 Mazda RX7) and so my friends can be comfortable while I drag them all over to be my pit crew - the rear captains chairs are a sweet feature.
Unfortunately this is the only picture I have right now... At the pump...
First things to address were the EBPS and EBPS tube, replaced those today... And the HPOP is leaking a bit from one of the lines I think, I ordered some gaskets and whatnot from Riffraff and will address that next weekend.
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Found a puddle under the X last weekend. I thought it was the pan gasket when I got under her but much to my dismay, it was not. Fluid was actually seeping from between the extension unit and the tranny. Would this just be the gasket between the two?
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I am going to fail State safety inspection due to a problem with my brakes. Months ago when I was trying to get it through emissions testing the mechanics looked under the truck to see where the brakes were leaking. All they told me was the rear lines are rusted through and need replacing.
From my reading I believe the lines are 3/16" line and I think they go around the back of the fuel tank and up the frame rail. Correct?
My questions are, what length line do I need (I am not a hard-line expert, but I will try). I want to order some ss line so it won't rust through again. Is the system made of small sections threaded together? Or is it one long section? And what else would I need/want to replace along the way?
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Can I change these out to hydraulic hoses with clamps that are rated for the fluid. Mine are rusted and starting to leak.
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Just have a quick question. I am replacing some rusted brake lines near the gas tank. I already have the rusted ones cut out. I want to know if this junction box is really needed. If not it would sure take out alot of bending the lines. It looks like the line only come down the frame and bolt into the block and then straight out to the rear wheels.
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1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
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Blew a hole in the 3/16 inch line to the rear on the left frame rail, behind the gas tank. Lost all brake function.
Got the truck home and inspected. The line was rusted bad about 6 ft long from the connection at the rear hose to the axle, up to the rear seat area ( crew cab). From the drivers seat forward, the line looks very good. The line across the rear axle from left to right looks very good. I bought two 50 inch standard lines 3/16 inch. Started at the rear hose connection 6 inches behind the gas tank and ran forward to the rear seat area.
Cut about 32 inches of the other 51 inch line and connected and ran forward to below the front seat area. There is a metric connector at this point. I cut an inch in front of it to eliminate it. NAPA sells a high psi compression fitting ( steel , 10,000#) that you can connect two 3/16 inch lines together. I did that under the drivers foot area. I have done two different 2002 F150s in the last year due to this failure. Something to look into. Not nice to loose brakes in traffic.
If your worried about the steel compression fitting, don't. I have used these on several cars and trucks over the last 15 years. Make sure you get the STEEL high pressure compression fitting. Total line replaced on CREW cab, 51 + 32 inches. Pops right back into the original plastic clamps.... I might mention, that is where the failure was, under the plastic clamp at the rear end of the gas tank area.......... crud must collect on the clamp.
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I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
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I am experiencing leaking cooler lines at the turbo. I thought it was only the line coming from the side of the turbo, but it looks like it could be the one going into the top. Can I safely remove the line from the front of the engine without interfering with the other metal lines directly in front of it. See the pic. This is the front of the engine under the turbo.
Also, the fitting in the pictures is not leaking. Can I replace the metal line without replacing the threaded connector going into the engine or does it have to be replaced with the line? I already have parts BC3Z-6A968-C and BC3Z-9U469-A for the line coming out of the side. What is the part #s for the other line pictured?
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I've discovered a rusted hole leaking oil from the oil pan on my 2006 Sonata GLS 2.4L 4 cylinder.
Trying to find a replacement oil pan but I'm not having any luck online. The oil pan for the 3.3L is for sale everywhere, but not for the 2.4L.
Googling suggested the OEM part number might be 21510-25051 but I can't confirm that?
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2002 4.6 SC with towing package... Transmission cooling lines to radiator leaking. Replacing them? How long does it take, can it be done while working on the ground? Any tricks or problems to look out for?
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I've got the front of the excursion done with my spring swap finally and now it's onto the rear. How do I move these ac lines along the passenger side to get them out of the way from that shackle bolt? I see the brackets holding them but since they are all hard lines how many do I have to remove?
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Found out my 2007 Hyundai Sonata V6 GLS needs a new brake line put in. The line rusted and all brake fluid leaked out. I am very surprised that after 7 years and only 103,000 km (about 65,000 miles) the car will need a new brake line put in already. All my other cars have been Japanese and have never experienced premature failure and replacement of brake lines.
Granted, I live in Toronto, Ontario, and this year has been a cold start to winter with lots of aggressive salting. It started to get a little bit warmer the last 2 days which probably accelerated the corrosion from the salt.
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I am going to be changing my brake lines in the rear and to the rear of my X. i ordered the rubber lines. what i would like to know is the part number for the steel axle tube line and the line that runs the from from front to back.. I don't know if it matters but when i looked up the left caliper line I had to get it for to 12/20/99...
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07 Camry LE USA built. The front line that goes down behind the radiator then towards the rear under the engine has started leaking at the bottom of the horseshoe bend. The bottom is rusted and leaking. Is there a temporary fix for this? Part is not available from the local parts stores.
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I'm 1/2 way through a flush and water pump replacement. Its going to get cold and I don't want to blow any heater lines. I have the pump off and the block drained (I also managed to get some coolant into the block - but not the rear heat).
I don't see an easy place at the front to disconnect the lines. I'd like to blow them out just to be safe. What is the best place to disco in the front or if I even need to - can I just disco 1 in the rear and then blow in both direction?
I fear that there may be some vent door closed that will prevent flow. I can't start the truck - I can turn the key on.
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Is it a do it yourself job to replace brake lines. Never done it before or even seen it done. Special tools required? Will the auto parts store know exactly what I need? Are these questions answering my question?(don't do it) ...
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So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
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