I was replacing the brakes on the X, the threaded part that receives the top bolt for the caliper is frozen. I tried whacking it with a hammer and tried to free it up by turning it but no good. The bottom bolt assembly worked like it should but the top is frozen solid and makes the brakes rub, you can smell it. Do I need to replace the whole assembly or is there replacement parts for this?
View 6 RepliesI have an '04 Toyota solar a. In 2012 I replaced the rear calipers and rear break pads and rotors Now 18 months later I have been told that my rear caliper piston is frozen and I have to replace both calipers and beak pad and rotors. Does this sound reasonable. It will cost me another $600. What should I do
View 11 RepliesStarted to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
View 12 RepliesMy right front brake caliper is frozen and I cannot turn the tire. This happened about a month ago and I went to Autozone and they gave me a new caliper, rotor and brakes, under warranty, and now the caliper is frozen again and I cannot turn the tire when jacked up. It seems to release after a period of time. I am not sure if it has a proportioning valve for the front brakes, but the driver side wheel turns freely and is not stuck.
View 2 RepliesSo, my right, rear, brake caliper froze in the open position a little while back; I hit the brake hard, it held, heard a clack, then it let go and stayed in the open (uncompressed) position. I lost some braking power but at least have been able to drive. No visible brake fluid leak, other three brakes working fine.
At 125K, I've decided to do a full brake job, and am about to search for some of the parts on the awesome stickied parts reference list up above. I'll hopefully find some parts are available at NAPA, where I'm also ordering the right side cv axle.
So, I'm only finding remanufactured brake calipers at NAPA. Are they decent or should I look for something new elsewhere?
According to the repair manual, you need to replace item 3, a Torque to Yield bolt, when removing the caliper. What is the part VW part number?
View 18 Replies2011 Lexus RX350 ... What are the Torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts (front and rear caliper brackets) a pdf will be great
View 1 RepliesMy 2012 Avalon developed a slight rattle at 9000 miles that continued to get worse. I took off the right front wheel today and found the top caliper bolt partially loosened. I could turn it with my FINGERS! The other one was tight as were the ones on the left side.
To diagnose this rattle, find a bumpy road that makes it rattle. Put your foot lightly on the brake (to load the caliper). If the noise goes away, it is probably a loose caliper bolt.
3 weeks after having my brakes replaced. At 60 mph yesterday.
The garage has the car now and is saying it was a freak accident and not something they caused. I call foul to that. It's a 2007 Subaru Outback.
What should I say to them to make sure this gets repaired properly? And what unseen damage should I be looking out for? The wheel run has a groove from where the bolt rubbed. That's all I could see. And I could lift up and wiggle the caliper.
It was only the pad replaced on the front brakes. It was pads and rotors on the back.
So the Ex came to me with a 6" spring lift in front and 5-1/2" blocks on the rear. It's always been a little stiff and bouncy. More than it should, in my opinion. There are also some occasional low-speed groans coming from under my feet.
On a recent inspection, I noticed the spring eye bushings are a little worn (front springs, the rear bushing of the spring). In taking the rear or the front leaf away from the shackle, I noticed that the shackle would not swing at all. This could be a problem. If the shackle can't swing fore and aft, then the suspension can't articulate, making the ride super stiff and bouncy. This could also wear out the spring eye bushing.
The design of this shackle looks very simple. Maybe too simple. A bolt goes through the top, and through holes in the frame. If this bolt is tight, then the top of the shackle is clamped to the frame and can't pivot. Is this right? Is it safe to loosen this bolt? Should it be lubricated?
BTW 2005 Excursion XLT 4x4 V10
I think I have a stuck/sticky caliper. I am getting some squealing while under way after braking. It will fade away after a little while, but it it's bad enough where a friend left a message saying he could hear me coming...
I am also getting a shudder when braking at certain speeds (from @ 20-30 mph).
I replaced my front rotors @ 40k miles/4 yrs ago w/ PowerSlot Cryo's & Hawks LTS pads on all 4 wheels. I greased the pins at the time on the original calipers ('04 4wd 6.0 X w/ 105k miles now). The brakes have been great since, but the squealing/shudder started this spring.
Is it likely I need to replace the whole caliper, or can I get away with a pin kit? I want to order all the parts and be ready to do a weekend job.
Could the shudder be from the caliper, or is it likely i need to turn the front rotors? I'm planning to put new rear rotors on & new Hawk LTS pads all around again at the same time as dealing with the caliper. What rear rotors &/or calipers to get? I'd like to spend a bit less on the rear rotors vs the Powerslots.
Routine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
I've had an intermittent rattle for a bit on front drivers side. Checked sway bar links and they are good. I grabbed the caliper and it actually rattles at the slides. I replaced the slides last week on the front end and still rattles. Passenger side is good, but drivers isn't. How to address this?
View 2 RepliesLooks like if it was broken off but they tried to jb weld it in place and now I cannot get it out.
View 13 RepliesCouldn't get the bolts out of the bushings so just bought new mounts. Was wondering to have the torque value for the u-bolts...
View 2 RepliesI was looking around under the hood and I'm pretty sure I'm missing a bolt and maybe a nut too. The bolt hold the fuel line I think. Is there supposed to be a nut holding the fan shroud on here?
I know I could go to the hardware store and eventually find something that works, but that is a headache and they don't like me test fitting until I find the right size. What is part number?
I was in the process of changing out rotor and pads and my caliper bracket bolts while loosening them. The weird part is the bolt was turning in the process. The passenger side was easy as pie. The drivers side has me stuck. I have tried to drill out the broken bolt but noting is working. I don't know where to go from here. I have already purchased a new caliper and the bracket that goes with it. I just need to get this old one off so I can move on.
View 14 RepliesI replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
View 4 RepliesI picked up a renamed 2100 for my '72 and I found out choke vacuum control on the back of the carb is frozen. Are these parts still produced and if not is there another way to make it work?
View 10 RepliesI have a problem with the serpentine belt tensioner, on a 1993 Splash; 4cyl motor. The tensioner spring is frozen/stuck, so it is set to where it is. Tried to 'exercise' to free it up, that did not work, and sorta' rounded out the 3/8 square hole doing that. So, ordered an new tensioner assembly. I felt around the tensioner mount at bottom, do not feel a bolt head. So it must be flat head allen or torx bolt, correct ?
View 9 RepliesAny good remedy for constantly freezing door seals? I have a 06 extended cab and the rubber seal between the 2 doors makes an excellent "lock" when water freezes and all but welds the doors together. I damn near broke the paddle handle trying to pull on it. I wasn't keen on dumping water on the top of the seal since the glass is so cold and the water doesn't seem to penetrate anyway. I was thinking of wiping the seals heavily with anti-freeze? or motor oil? No, a garage is not an option.
View 2 Replies