In the mornings my 6.8 gasser stumbles when started cold ('cold' could mean an overnight temperature of 50-70 degrees F). This stumble lasts anywhere from 2 - 5 seconds and then it revs on its own to ~1,500 rpm. I'm not giving it any throttle upon start-up. Other than this the truck runs fine (~110k miles on OEM engine). Any thoughts on what may be causing this?
View 1 RepliesI just bought an 03 Ex that hadn't been driven but 600 miles the past three years. Needless to say, there's probably some sludge causing issues somewhere. I have a Scangauge installed, which has been very useful thus far.
I've flushed the coolant, currently with distilled water, changed the oil and filter, atf and filter, and installed my 2nd set of fuel filters after getting stranded after I ran my first tank of fuel through it. After changing the fuel filters the second time, I was still having cold starting problems, requiring 3-4 long cranks before firing. Once warm, runs fine. I just installed a FICM from Diesel Tech Ron, but I still have to try 3-4 times to get it to cold start, then it runs and starts ok. Not sure why the hard cold starts...
Also, the heat doesn't work. A/C is fine, blower is working. I installed a new thermostat, and like I said, I have flushed the coolant with tap water and now distilled water, but didn't want to pour in fresh coolant just yet, in case I have to drain it again with this heat issue. That vc7b is not cheap. Tonight I drove the truck about 20 miles and my highest temps for EOT was around 215 and ECT was 205. Fluctuated between the the mid 190s to low 200s most of the time, this was over some hilly roads with no load or anything. Anything else I can monitor or check on in the mean time?
I have a problem here which isn't funny around 30F. The engine temperature act quite normal after a cold start, but the heating inside is disabled somehow. So I can select any temperature in the front and back, but it stays cold.
View 14 RepliesTruck runs great if I get it started. Here are symptoms.
-Extremely hard to start when engine is cold
- It will start fairly quick if plugged in all night
- After running there is no issues with starting unless sits over night
- Batteries good and engine cranks fast
- Tests and parts I have replaced
- Replaced GPM (Glow Plug Module) I do not have the relay as most seem to have on their engines. I did replace this unit.
- Replaced Glow plugs all 8 this morning. Since they where cheap enough it did not hurt the wallet.
- Replaced crank position sensor. Tach moves when engine is cranking.
- Checked the HPOR and it has oil about 1/2" from top.
Now what is left to check besides doing a buzz test to rule out injectors? Also if truck runs fine and does not run rough could injectors still be bad?
This 97 F150 4.2 is new to me, originally a very base 2wd white fleet vehicle, with 189,000 miles, runs smoothly and quietly, idles well, transmission shifts smoothly. Gets reasonable gas mileage.
Problem statement: the truck has an intermittent starting problem. The failure to start happens about 5-10% of the time. The motor will turn over fine, but but immediately stumbles while trying to start. Turn key off and then re-start attempt will be again followed by a bucking stumble. Some times the motor might try and run for 2-3 seconds bucking and stumbling. It is possible the problem happens more often when the truck is warm and has been shut off for 15 minutes or so. Once the problem happens it is very repeatable. It won't start again unless I wait about 30 minutes to an hour. Once it starts it seems to run very nicely. I have noticed some times when I go to successfully start the truck it might run roughly for the first 3-4 seconds bucking and sputtering a bit and then smooth out and not have an issue until the next re-start attempt.
The truck runs so nicely when it is running I doubt it is an issue with the plugs, air filter general tune up. Could it be an intermittent fuel pump issue? The next time it occurs I will check fuel pressure. Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Also tested by fuel pressure. ECU? The truck runs very nicely most of time that seems like a long shot. Crank sensor? Bad fuel? I did add some dry gas.
I just bought a used 2007 Hondai santa fe. 65K. Loved it until four times when I turn key to start the car 'stumbles'. Dealer finds nothing wrong. What I notice today is I did not have my foot on the brake. My 11 yr old Subaru started w/o (not good I know) so I developed a bad habit. So now I wonder if this is not a problem but rather a safety feature and I need to always have my foot on the brake at start.
View 2 RepliesI have 57K miles on my 1.8t. It runs great except for the first start of the day. About half of the time, first thing in the morning it runs rough for the first 30 seconds. Like it is running on 2-3 cylinders. Then it sorts out and runs great the rest of the day. I took it to my dealer where they charged me $200 to replace the spark plugs. I would prefer to fix this myself if I can.
View 2 Replies1990 chevy silverado 4x4... My truck stumbles when you start it and within 5 seconds or so clears up and runs smooth.. I changed the fuel filter , still the same result.
View 1 RepliesI have a 00 Ford Excursion and only heat blows out of the front vents, the temp control doesn't work at all! The back has it's own controls and will come out cold (not a/c just the outside air) when the front is on (blasting heat). What this could be?
View 10 RepliesWhen its cold outside it starts and runs good for about a second and then shuts off or runs really rough and then takes off. I tried turning it off and starting it about 4 times. After the fourth time I gave it a little gas and it started after that. If the block heater is plugged in it starts fine. And starts great the rest of the day after the initial start. It is not that cold here, lower 20's in the morning. Where to start with this problem?
View 13 Replies My 05 has always had good air conditioning front and back but around three weeks ago it quit blowing cold. I found all the 134 had leaked out through a pin hole in the aluminum line that runs down the back of the engine to the rear ac unit. I removed the line and brazed the pin hole. So I reinstalled the line, put a vacume on the system for 20 mins then let it sit for another 20 to make sure I had no leaks. All seemed good so I re charged the system. Now my front blows nice and cold but the rear is warm?
My pressures at idle are around 40psi low side and 200ish on the high side when the engine is warmed up and the ambeint temp is around 74 f. If I turn it to the warmest setting for the rear it gets noticeably hotter so I'm thinking the blend door is working properly?? I've read that the thermal expansion valves can give some trouble so I pulled the jack and cubby out to gain access to it. I tried tapping on it with no gains. Also the top left line seems to be pretty cold coming out of it too the evaporator but the line coming out of the evap is room temp. I was very careful not to let any junk get into the lines when they were apart for the line repair but I'm thinking maybe some junk has plugged up the TXV?
My A/C has just stopped working and I am looking for some pointers on how to diagnose the problem. The vent and blower still works, just no cold air coming out? Where do I start?
View 10 RepliesI'm having an issue with my backup sensors when its cold (40 and below). The issue is, they don't work. When I put it in reverse the sensor light on the dash comes on signifying they're off. I push the button to try to turn them back on and it stays on with no change. Once the outside temp heats up they start operating as normal. How to fix this?
View 10 RepliesThe heat up front blows nice and hot but no matter how I adjust the rear ceiling mounted controls it blows cold in the back. Is this a blend door issue or something with the rear controls? Also, on a side note, one of my rear power vent windows just stopped working too. I guess it's either the overhead switch or the motor back there.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 Excursion Limited V10. 146000 miles 2 wheel drive. I have had it about a year and this is my first winter to really have experience with her.
When the outside temperature is very cold and the engine is cold from sitting all night, at start up, the oil pressure gauge reads nothing and the oil pressure/temp idiot light is on. Only does this during the first very cold start up or after sitting and engine getting very cold again.
I can drive just a short distance (2 blocks) and both gauge and light go to normal and stay there for the rest of my drive. I am using a quality 5/20 oil and filter and the level is good. Warmer days it has never happened. Truck runs fine, smooth idle, no "limp mode". She has not had any recent work done. All the other dash gauges read fine.
There is something about really cold temperatures that have to be causing the issue , I think. ??
So I live in Utah and is cold here. My door won't shut tight when it's cold outside. I have to really slam it. I HATE it when my doors are slammed. But it's the only way I can secure it. No problems with any of the other does.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2001 Excursion with the V-10. Two weeks ago, the upper nipple on the radiator cracked and I overheated. Was towed home and replaced the radiator with a quality aftermarket one. I then drove to the whiz wash and cleaned the antifreeze off of the engine.
Immediately I noticed a slight "miss" when cold, particularly when backing out of my driveway. I have no lights on the dash and it is throwing no codes. The miss gets much better (almost gone) when the truck is warmed up.
As it's progressively grown colder (which may or may not be related), my truck has grown all but impossible to shift from park into reverse neutral or drive with the engine running when the truck is cold. I often have to shut the engine off, and once I do it immediately is very easy to shift out of park into neutral, and then I can restart the engine. Once the truck has been driven some, it's not hard to get out of park, but if it's shut off for some time (an hour maybe) it will be difficult to shift out of park again. I don't know how to begin troubleshooting this.
View 8 RepliesI normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
View 12 RepliesI have a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the drivers side of the engine. 2000 Excursion. It only happens when accelerating in every gear between 1400-2100. No noise at idle or park. Same noise when cold or warm, again only when accelerating. Goes away when you take your foot off gas. New exhaust studs, exhaust does not seem to be leaking, no carbon build up anywhere. No engine codes. Truck runs great and no loss of power. V10 with 120 k on it. Really annoying.
View 14 RepliesThe front a/c blows cold air but the 2nd row and back blows warm. Yes the temp dial is on cold on both dials. Is there a separate a/c clutch that I dont know about to ck the air gap? Is there a separate port to put freon in besides the front. I need to get this fixed because with my bulldogs in the back the heat will kill them.
View 14 Replies