Ford Excursion :: Stuck Caliper - Squealing After Braking?
Jun 30, 2014
I think I have a stuck/sticky caliper. I am getting some squealing while under way after braking. It will fade away after a little while, but it it's bad enough where a friend left a message saying he could hear me coming...
I am also getting a shudder when braking at certain speeds (from @ 20-30 mph).
I replaced my front rotors @ 40k miles/4 yrs ago w/ PowerSlot Cryo's & Hawks LTS pads on all 4 wheels. I greased the pins at the time on the original calipers ('04 4wd 6.0 X w/ 105k miles now). The brakes have been great since, but the squealing/shudder started this spring.
Is it likely I need to replace the whole caliper, or can I get away with a pin kit? I want to order all the parts and be ready to do a weekend job.
Could the shudder be from the caliper, or is it likely i need to turn the front rotors? I'm planning to put new rear rotors on & new Hawk LTS pads all around again at the same time as dealing with the caliper. What rear rotors &/or calipers to get? I'd like to spend a bit less on the rear rotors vs the Powerslots.
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I was replacing the brakes on the X, the threaded part that receives the top bolt for the caliper is frozen. I tried whacking it with a hammer and tried to free it up by turning it but no good. The bottom bolt assembly worked like it should but the top is frozen solid and makes the brakes rub, you can smell it. Do I need to replace the whole assembly or is there replacement parts for this?
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Replacing remaining three calipers on my 2006 F-350 2wd as a preventative measure after I had a drag on the left front. Passenger side front being difficult. Caliper won't slide off pads. I believe pins are stuck but it doesn't seem they've got the caliper stuck - appears that I can't get pistons to stay compressed enough to clear pads. Caliper has some wiggle on pads - just not enough.
I tried multiple C-clamp iterations but can't get there just yet. I'd rather not fool with the bracket and removal won't fix my problem, just allow me to work it on the bench. I do have a replacement caliper, so damaging it to get it off is an option. I have sprayed Kroil into the piston seals in a Hail Mary when I pick this up tomorrow.
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My question is my abs light came on so I stuck my computer on it. Said right rear , we'll we all know on a 2007 6.0 f350 4X4, the there's only one sensor on the pumpkin, so I replaced it and cleared the code. Abs light came back on once I started driving, week ago my right front caliper stuck and got very hot, could that read bad for the rear of the front went bad? Will pull plug and make sure I didn't bend any pins.
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I have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
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Routine maintenance gone wrong.
Installing rear brake line and failed to put on the rear washer and stripped out the bolt hole mostly. Will still unscrew and screw back in but not enough to stop a slow drip. Is there an easy repair or time for a new caliper? Thread tape is not brake fluid resistent.
If no repair, what brand should I go with? Are they all similar or MC better? Can get Fenco for $50 and MC for $100. A1 Cardone and ACD for about $75.
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I've had an intermittent rattle for a bit on front drivers side. Checked sway bar links and they are good. I grabbed the caliper and it actually rattles at the slides. I replaced the slides last week on the front end and still rattles. Passenger side is good, but drivers isn't. How to address this?
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My Phaeton 2004 3.2 V6 makes a really bad squealing noise when they are warm and the car is just coming to a stop, even if I am only braking slowly. Had VW check the brakes and all they did was to take out the pads, clean them and replace them. Then had the rear discs and pads replaced and it still occasionally does this. Is there something I am missing?????? Who wants to drive a superb car like this and have everyone look at it for the wrong reasons!! Wheel Bolt Torque Specifications (TOC)...
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My 2013 Hyundai Sonata SE has been making squealing noises when braking. However, this has gone away after a while. I read that squealing means it's time to change the brake pads. However, I don't hear the noise anymore. What happened?
Also I would like to know when to replace brake calipers, pads or rotors? I'm pretty sure the Hyundai service center is going to tell me some BS and charge me for extra things.
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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I have a Toyota Corolla with 78K miles and when braking, a squealing noise came from the back when braking at low speeds. So I figured it was worn brake shoes, I took it to the mechanic but he said both the front and back brakes are good. I had him change both front and back anyway.
Now the squealing noise is gone but there is a still a noise...it sounds like the drum is rusted. It sounds like the noise in this video: [URL] .... (48 sec mark)
Do you think it's the drum or something else? How much would changing the drum (both sides) cost? Do I need to get new brake shoes also?
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I have determined that I need to replace the Passenger side Universal Joint I got all 4 wheels off the ground and ran it and if you turn the wheel the passenger one Locks and will not budge. But besides that when I am driving strait I get a squealing Barking sound every now and then. If I engage the 4X4 it goes away. I thought it was a bearing but they spin freely and have no play in them at all.
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I don't remember exactly when it started, but now if I turn the wheel it has a loud squeaking/squealing sound. Once I am going over 10mph I don't hear it (probably just don't over the road noise and sound of my truck), but turning into a parking spot it is super loud. What it could be? I have modded B and modded V codes, with 285/75/16 Michelin all terrains. I had that setup for a good 4 months without it squeaking.
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Recently I've noticed more that when we first start the hyundai in the morning or after sitting a while and we use the brakes it grinds/ squeals a little and then doesn't after about 2 or 3 miles. Is this something to get checked out or should I spray something on my brakes to lubricate?
My next step that I though of was to get a simple automatic car wash cause it's been a bad winter in Rhode Island and the street shave been flooded with rock salt. I figure that might cause some friction under the pads.
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We have a 2005 honda civic hybrid; there is a squealing noise coming from front passenger side, when braking, when accelerating, decelerating, but not while driving at speeds of 30 mph, straight. Also when backing up, turning wheels. It's going to the mechanic on monday for regular maintenance, 100K miles, etc.
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This squeaking/squealing noise only happens when letting off the gas after accelerating 70%+ throttle. Quickly letting off the gas after revving up makes the noise . It sounds like it comes from under the drivers side door, and does NOT sound like a turbo. Its a creaky/squeaking noise.
Wont happen in park, does happen in 2wd or 4wd, on highway or in city. [URL] ....
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Ok, so I just drove from Pgh, PA to San Antonio, TX..... truck ran great, and before i left i replaced the steering box, tie rod ends, shocks, added dual steering stabilizers, and did a tranny flush as well as oil change.
Here are the issues that I cant figure out, anytime i turn the wheel, there is a squealing, it is NOT the power steering, when we did all the upgrades we re-greased the ball joints and temporarily stopped the squealing. So should I just replace the ball joints, and if so, should I replace anything else while I'm doing that?
The next issue is when i drive, sometimes when I accelerate slightly it sounds like something is going wrong with the engine, like a vibration or humming, maybe a slight tapping, i cant seem to figure it out. no engine lights come on or anything, but it scares me and I need this vehicle for a while so I need to make sure i keep up on the maintenance.
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I am now getting a random 'whirring' or 'squealing' noise from the front. When it starts, I feel some vibration in the steering wheel and floorboard and for sure can hear it. Starts on it own at random, sometimes when I hit a bump in the road. Stops at random, sometimes when hitting a bump in the road. Lasts for different lengths of time. Always stops when coming to a stop at about ~15 mph. Seems to change pitch ever so slightly if turning when it is 'whirring' or 'squealing'.
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I replaced my warped front brake rotors a couple thousand miles ago and all was fine but when I went to swap over to my snow tires, I can see that the outer part of the rotor has been rubbing on the caliper bracket. This is happening on both front rotors. Could my new rotors be too thick or something?
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Just as the title says I'm getting a good pull to the right when braking. Little background, truck has 155k, rotors and pads replaced 10 days ago, new tires today. Now with the new tires the pull is more pronounced than with the old tires but has been there, which I thought was just worn out rubber, apparently not.
All caliper pins are greased and moving freely, and for kicks I replaced left pins to see if some how they were fouling up, they weren't, still pulling. So my question after searching is maybe the last two culprits are bad caliper or bad hose? I just wanted to bounce this off the board and see if I am on the right track to fix this issue.
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My 2002 Ex 4x4 developed a shudder during breaking. Today while trying to jack it up and put on jack stands. My 2 3/4 ton jack was too weak/short to lift it up to put on stands. I am using 6 ton stands just to lift the front.
So have to get new jack. Keep in mind I don't have a ton of cash for new jack. What size are you all using to get your ex up on stands?
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