Ford Excursion :: Steering Box Adjuster Screw Jammed
Feb 2, 2014
I adjusted the slop out of my steering box according to this thread a couple days ago. Long story short I got the adjuster screw tightened down TOO far, probably when setting the locknut. Now the steering is unusually heavy and the steering wheel won't return to center on its own. Spent the last hour trying to go back the other way but I can't budge the allen head adjuster screw one bit. Locknut is plenty loose for it to turn, but the allen wrench is just flexing trying to turn it and it feels if I give it any more torque it's just going to strip out anyway. Is there anything I can try here to take the pressure off it so it'll turn or is the steering box now officially FUBAR?
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I am taking out the second seat in my 2001 Ex and I have all of the screws loose except for one that is kind of hidden on the side. How to get to it?
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I have a 2001 excursion and am trying to remove the second row bench seat. How do you get to the back set of of torque screws? The front ones are easy to get to but the rear are under the seat trac and I haven't been able to get to them. I am pretty sure I am overlooking the obvious.
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I was asked these questions tonight, and realized I didn't know the answers. I have "E" load range tyres.
1. Does the Excursion use the metal valve stems like the other super duty's? Are these the press on type? or screw on?
2. What is the Valve Stem size?
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I have a problem with my 2005 hyundai elantra 2.0L . Every time I turn it on and try to drive, the steering wheel is kinda jammed. It wouldn't turn all the way. And I can here some noises from the hood as i turn it more. Sometimes i have to wait for it till it heats up a little then the steering could turn smoothly. Some guy told me it could be one of the belts (which i don't know which one).
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I have accent model 2008, the car has EPS (electrical power steering), Two-days ago, i was driving on high way, suddenly the EPS lit is on and the steering is jammed and i cannot turn it left or right.
I succeeded to stop and turn off then on again, the steering came back to the normal status, I called the service center who i am dealing with him, the Engineer advised me either
1)to change the EPS kit or
2)to change into hydraulic system, i.e., installing a new hydraulic system instead of the electrical one.
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I have a broken headlight adjuster assembly, it's a steel bolt with a Plastic nut on it, the Star piece behind the nut is broken. What is the source for this part ?? A Ford part number????
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I was out on the lake last night and after getting stuck in 6" of hard packed snow, I discovered that my 4WD is not engaging. When engaging 4WD, I do hear 2 clicks several seconds apart. I've checked the lines from the solenoids to the actuator and did not find any cracks. I have not checked the lines for vacuum yet but...
Last winter while engaging 4WD, I heard a load POP from the front end when I was turning the wheel and engaging 4WD. Ever since then, I haven't been sure if its been engaging but it was confirmed yesterday on the lake. Based on what I've read, I assume its either the actuator or the shift fork. Is it possible to remove the actuator and test it without disassembling the entire front end?
I went under the truck and had my wife engage and disengage the 4WD. The actuator was trying to move (maybe 1/16" inch) but the shift fork wasn't moving. Does this mean the shift fork is bad (frozen) or does this mean the actuator is bad (not enough power to move the fork)?
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I can't open my 04 F150 Screw drivers side rear door. Darn it.
I just replaced the rear speaker in my drivers side rear door and when I re-installed the rear release door handle I must have missed the cable engagement. I closed it and now can not open the door.
The handle is installed, the screws (loosened) will not come out, the lower door panel is installed. The upper two snap on panels are still off. so I have access to the top latch but not the lower end.
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I have a 2007 Passat 2.0t that unfortunately suffered a broken timing chain at 80k miles. While try to figure out what to do with it I'd like to learn a little bit about the design.
I have the timing chain cover off and have viewed the carnage. The chain broke and got jammed between the cover and the adjuster and the adjuster's pins sheered from the cam.
I can see the solenoid on the cam cover and the spring thingy extending concentrically from the cam cover to the cam adjuster.
What is the purpose of the cam adjuster? Is this changing the valve timing of the intake cams or is it simply maintaining the sync of the exhaust cam and intake cam as the chain wears?
How does the solenoid and the projecting spring from the cover influence the functioning of the adjuster?
Is the adjuster ruined on my car? Those pins are designed to shear off so maybe the adjuster is still ok?
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I have a 2009 Prius with NON HID headlights. The left one appears to not adjust properly. If I remove the bulb boot, the light bounces up and down (the part that is supposed to adjust). When I turn the adjuster, it will wiggle down then up again, like it is not engaging the screw inside... Also, when I hit a bump, the left beam bounces. The main housing is secure, just the inner (adjustable) one is not.
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So i was adjusting my headlamp and it popped and now the internal cartridge part is all loose and my headlamp is pointing at the ground. Long story short I need to remove my headlamp and repair, how do you fix the internal tray? I have only REPLACED lamps before never repaired them. Have to remove the cover lense or is there some other way? If I have to remove the lense I am just going to buy a new headlamp at the junk yard.
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Passat, 2003, 5 speed, turbo, 1.8T engine, 4 door, 66K miles.
No oil on garage floor and tiny amount of oil at rear of engine, Is this urgent?
(I have had many cars with no seal or gasket issues- especially at 66K).
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03 F-250 V-8 Trition ... Once the weather gets warmer all be doing a transmission fluid exchange ...
Does the transmission have an internal and external screw on filter? Or is it just and internal? Also do I have options like a wix internal filter or just a stock replacement? Is it sealed with RTV/ or a one piece gasket?
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I have jammed rear doors on my 1999 Ford F-150 XLT 2wd. Opened when I bought the truck a year ago, no accidents or damage since, but first one door, then the other decided to not open. Will I have to pull the interior door panel off to get at the mechanism ?
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I am currently working on my accord and well have hit a bit of trouble nothing too bad. I was just wondering how do you retract the timing belt adjuster for the '98 honda accord.
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As the tittle states, my driver side ratchet thing stopped working randomly, I've tried searching but cant find anything.
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The star wheel is not bound up. I can adjust in manually and it clicks properly when tightening. The adjuster arm is touching the right area of the star wheel. What happens is, I manually adjust the rear brakes until they are close to perfect. I back up hoping to get them to self-adjust to the proper spec, and instead of tightening, they seem to loosen a few clicks and stay that way, leaving me with "half way" rear brakes. Meaning, it would take me a few hundred feat to come to any meaningful stop when pulling the E-brake.
I can also feel the difference between the rear brakes functioning, and not, despite their secondary role, and these are not functioning properly. Right after a drive, I can jack the car up and the wheel spins freely again as if I never adjusted them in the first place. They don't unadjust themselves to the point of being completely ineffective, just to the point of not being nearly how they should. I'd expect to be able to lock them up by pulling the e-brake, and it isn't even close.
When I apply the e-brake, I can hear them "grinding", sort of touching but not really. Everything seems to be installed correctly.
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My wife and I were rear ended over a year ago. Although the damage was mainly cosmetic to the bumper covering, it did cause a slight bend in the frame enough to prevent the rear door from opening. How to get this straightened enough to at least get the door to open and close.
My thoughts, the bend is not that severe it turns out, but I was thinking a torch at the point where the frame is bent and leverage pulling up on the bumper at each side.
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So I have no high-lights on mirror controls and dash light adjuster (2 button clusters under left hand). I went to dealer, and after looking at this and also looking at other "brand new" C they tell me that it is not supposed to be lit up.
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I've been having an ongoing problem with the gear shifter jammed in park after startup. I changed the brake switch and installed a new ignition switch to try fix the problem. Later, I noticed the battery indicator gauge was flat lined even though the truck was running. Out of sheer frustration, I banged the bottom of the steering wheel and suddenly the battery indicator jumped to life and the truck went into gear again.
I took off the panel beneath the steering wheel off to look for any obvious loose wires but found none. This sounds strange but at first, the problem occurred more in the mornings when the weather was cold outside. No, it seems that the battery indicator will flat line while I'm driving in all weather conditions but jumps back up when I tap the steering wheel. I've included a video on youtube to illustrate the problem.
Youtube Video .....
2001 F250 Lariat Superduty 7.3Lm
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