Ford Excursion :: Starter Engages When Headlights Are Turned On And Reverse?
Apr 3, 2015
Had the Ex (2000 Limited V10 134K) about a month now, doing some reading in the FTE, saw the thread about wire chaffing in the steering column related to the gear shift selector and overdrive. Well, everything else has been chaffed on this truck so far I figured I better look at that too. They are chaffed right at the bottom of the base of the selector, not much wire to work with, might just replace.
I put everything back together and no issues. The next morning, I drove it and no issues until at work, put it in reverse (to park next to the bosses pretty new red Titan, picked that up from You Might Drive and Ex If) and the starter engaged. Got it parked, starter playing with switches for it to repeat, found that with the keys in my hand and turning on the headlight switch on (park or headlight position) the engine would start turning over, turn the key on and the headlights on and the EX starts, started stayed engaged until headlights are turned back off. Reverse only engaged the starter when the engine was running, when not running neutral safety switch kicked in telling me it works.
Searches had me reading in other in another place that there are wires that go from the headlight switch to the steering column specifically heavier guage blue wire with red or pink stripe "I think".
So last night I took the column covers back off and started chasing wires. As I was moving wires looking for the short I kept turning the light switch on and off as I wanted to know if and when I found the short. Evidently, I found it because the headlight switch and reverse stopped engaging the starter. I never did find the actual short. So the chipmunk has been chased from my wood pile but for how long?
I left everything in the column until the problem went away so to speak. I took the turn signal selector out inspected both connectors and wires and went about 6 inches back into the wiring harness, I found nothing, the turn signal selector had no impact on the started engaging.
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2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
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I have a 02 F250 Super Duty XLT with a triton V8 with a automatic transmission . and when I shift into reverse after driving for a while the starter engages . It does not happen all the time . If i start up the truck and shift through or into reverse it doesn't happen . the only time it happens is when i've been driving for awhile and want to back up or park it will only do it once or twice after each drive so trying to get it to happen while in the shop is almost impossible . could this be caused by the transmission range sensor . I just had the code P0705 (transmission range sensor , A circuit input ) come on but the problem has been happening for a few weeks before that code came up .
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I got a check eng light and read the codes. Cam sensor, misfire 5 & 8. Replaced cam sensor. Got light twice more. Cam sensor. Cleared codes, now no light but, I lost bottom & mid range HP at a steady decline. Run like a scalded dog on top end. Replaced fuel filter on frame rail & air filter. No cure. Noticed dash dim when headlights turned on. Pulled pos battery cable engine died. Replaced alt old one tested good. Drove to parking spot no power damn near couldn't pull it self. Turned off wouldn't start. Before I turned off it would rev up perfect just no power to move. Had a camed up sound at an idle like a slight miss. No fault codes present. Ford claims crank sensor. Haven't replaced that yet. Have fuel in fuel rails. 10 coils could not have lost spark at once. Any part other than crank sensor?
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1998 f250 4.6 4x4. In park the starter engages with key on . Ounce running the starter is still engaged in park and neutral. No engagement in the drive gears. Changed the ignition switch and neutral safety switch on the trans. When key is off instrument cluster is still on.
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My 2008 F150 5.4l SCrew wouldn't start this evening. The engine turns over and the starter engages, but it won't fire. Oddly enough the starter stays engaged after I take my hand off the ignition! I have to physically turn the key off for it to quit (didn't want to burn out the starter). The culprit may be the wet weather....it's been a lot milder today and we've had some freezing rain that turned to drizzle. My truck has only done this once before (last year I think). I eventually got it to start tho.
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I have a 2004 to 250 super duty 5.4 and automatic trans it has about 233,000 miles on it. Yesterday when I started my truck I could see my reverse lights were stuck on against the garage door in the dark. After I put the truck in drive the lights went out later on I shift at the truck and to park and the starter engaged I put the truck in neutral and it stopped the starter from running after doing that several times the truck now does it even when it's in reverse or neutral. I have to leave it in drive and push the emergency brake on I am in and out of the truck all day long. I did change the shift to blast may I check the screws on the back of the shift to bury thing seems fine.
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In a matter of weeks, my truck destroyed two sets of flywheels and starters. When the ignition key engages, the engine "jumps back?. Apparently, this causes the starter and flywheel teeth to grind. My mechanic cannot determine the cause of the "jump back". He thought that it might be the timing. His examination and testing, however, proved the engine properly timed.
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My truck was stolen over the weekend. Fortunately, it was recovered but they broke the key lock on the steering column and I'm having a hard time getting it started. I can turn the ignition all the way to the start position with my key or a screwdriver but the starter never engages. I'm sure I'm missing something simple but I can't seem to figure it out. Looking for instructions on how to get this started again?
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I've had my .:R for a while now, gotten used to its little quirks. But one thing that sparks my interest (not really worrisome though) is I have a squeaking noise when the starter motor engages. It definitely squeaks once per revolution for about 4-5 sqeaks, and it's noticeable in and out of the car. Is it a bearing going bad?
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For the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
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It always engages but will not hold. Had front end rebuilt in 4/14. New 4WD seals in new Timkin hubs. Worked fine last year in snow. Swapped relays in aux box 3. No joy. ESOF connector OK. Any way to check ESOF solenoid? Looks like the ESOF may not be holding the vacuum necessary to keep the hubs engaged.
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During the cold snap over the last few months, my 1997 Toyota 4Runner has been having starting problems with the following symptoms in this order:
I turn the key and nothing happens.
I keep turning the key from off to start, and the starter eventually engages and cranks 2 or 3 times, but the engine does not turn over.
I keep trying and the starter engages and keeps cranking even after I turn the key off.
I panic, and turn the key on and off until the starter stops cranking.
I try a few more times and the starter cranks and the engine catches, but lugs until I pump a little gas.
Really weird thing. Occasionally, after the above sequence, the emergency brake light stays on even though the brake handle has been disengaged, and it feels like I have no power, then the light goes out and the car runs just fine.
The problem in intermittent. Cold seems to cause it although it doesn't cause it every time. Rain may be a factor as well. Sometimes, I only have to turn the key a few times, and then the starter will engage. I changed the battery after the trouble began, and it cranks well if and when the starter engages.
Up until this I have not had a day's trouble with this vehicle other than a little belt squeaking.
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Pulled 3 starters at the junkyard to replace one that has a bad solenoid. Have a 2002 Buick Regal LS with 3800 series II engine. Found some on 3100 engines and one from a 3800. My starter has about 10 teeth on the gear that engages the flywheel. Some of the ones I pulled had smaller gears with only about 8 teeth.
Why the difference? Also one GM Delco starter was slightly longer (about 1/2 inch) than mine and had a small black hollow tube about 1 inch long at the rear of the starter and at the bottom. It fell off when I touched it. Looks like it might be a drain hole in case some water gets in to the starter. What is this really for?
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just bought the truck first time out hit some snow and it was not engaging low or high range, but I noticed that when I was backing up it was engaged again works in high and low range, i had to reverse about a mile up the road but it worked ? 99 4.2 standard with manual shift transfer case....
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05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
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Sitting in my living room I noticed that suddenly my headlights on my 97 Subaru ob turned on. First thought was someone was stealing my pos. Knife in hand I went to investigate. No one there. The keys were in the car, in the off position. The headlights all of a sudden turned off. I noticed that the dash lights were flickering on and off. I removed the keys yet the dash lights remained on. Not wanting my battery drained I disconnected the positive cable, which obviously corrected the issue for the time being. When I was disconnecting the battery I heard a mechanical whirring noise coming from the passenger side of the car just behind the headlight. Have never heard this noise before. NOT the intake fan or the AC. Did not investigate extensively due to darkness, wind and rain.
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I have a 2002 Saab 9-5 with a 3.0L turbo with 125k miles. The cruise control works fantastic UNLESS the headlights are on... huh??
I can replicate 100% of the time. It is getting dark earlier now - and my wife will not drive it anymore to work (35 miles) without the cruise control working.
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I have a 2003 Honda Accord with 207,000 miles on it. It's been doing the following:
- From Reverse to Drive, there’s a 2 - 3 second pause before it engages
- Sometimes when driving at higher speeds (55 - 70mph) then slowing down for a light or an exit, the car will sort of lurch/jerk around 30mph on the slow down. It’s very noticeable.
- Check Engine light has been coming on off for months. I thought it was a gas cap issue but the mechanic said it’s a P0506 code.
- Hard shifting in my day-to-day driving- Just fyi, we had the transmission rebuilt a year and a half ago.
We’ve taken it to the transmission shop twice and they said they don’t feel the things we describe and are getting no codes. We’ve taken it to the Honda dealer twice and the honda mechanic did a software update that didn’t fix the issue. I took it back and then he said he felt the hard shift/delay from R to D and that it is a transmission issue because the engine wouldn’t be engaged at all from R to D. The CE light wasn’t on for that visit and wasn't giving a code but then the CE light came back on when I was on my way back to the transmission shop. I read that there are specific things to do to try to clear the P0506 code (clean the throttle body, check for vacuum leaks, etc.) but our Honda dealer didn’t do any of those things.
Is there an engine issue related to the P0506 code that could make my car do these things but feel like a transmission issue even if it’s not (since I’m not getting any transmission codes)? Could I have two separate issues - whatever is triggering the P0506 code and then whatever is making the car shift hard, slow to engage, and jerk when slowing down? My transmission guy told me since they’re not feeling anything or getting any codes, the only thing left for them to do is take out the transmission. I’m at a loss and feel like I’m wasting their time, but there’s definitely something wrong.
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I was driving to work and lost all power (during rush hour) I was able to coast to a exit. Had it towed home, when I turn the key the starter engages but nothing after that, the engine will not turn over. I checked the battery and has a full 12 volts.
I removed the belt and front plugs to see if I could manually turn the engine over but it will not budge. How can I tell if this engine is really locked up or if maybe something else is happening?
3.1 V6 engine .....
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My son's 99 Taurus didn't want to start. At first thought it was a dead battery because of something left on, but jumping it didn't work. It starter was clicking like the solenoid was going out. Finally it did start and turned over fast like there wasn't a problem. I shut it off and restarted it again, no problem. Tried it a 3rd time and it wouldn't start again. Sometimes it clicked when I turned the key and sometimes it wouldn't do anything. Finally I had the wife turn on the headlights and turn the key while I stood in front to see if the headlights dimmed. The first time she tried it, the headlights went completely out. Not just dim, but completely off. The car started just fine after that and has been starting just fine ever since. Why this is?
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