Ford Excursion :: Started Getting Smoke After Being In Reverse With Trailer
Aug 16, 2014
Last week we were camping, the site we were on had a downhill slope to it. Since I had to reverse and align my trailer with the hookups I remember hearing something on here about putting it in 4WD before trying to reverse up hill. As I did this and slowly reversed I started getting smoke, nice and white with a little bit of a burnt smell to it but not bad. There was also some slightly mucous liquid on the ground that had almost no smell and a slight red tint to it. I freaked out thinking my transmission was shot but after reparking (doing a loop and staying in drive) there were no more leaks/drops and issues. I've driven another 500 miles since then and notice no difference shifting. How to avoid it
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I have a 2000 2wd with the 5.4 in it. I tow a travel trailer and loaded is 6500lbs. Today leaving the campground I had to climb an extremely steep hill as soon as you left the campground. No time to build speed. The old Ex made it, but I was definitely worried. The truck ran fine the rest of the 2 hours home. I went to back my camper into its spot to store, and smoke started coming out from under the hood. When I crawled under it, tranny fluid was leaking on the ground. A pretty steady drip. I let it cool down, added fluid and drove around. Didn't leak anymore. Did the tranny just get hot and had to burp? The drip was coming from where the tranny connects to the motor.
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I've been getting ready to take a camping trip with the, new to me, Superduty and going to rent a trailer. When I bought the truck it had no brake controller and the aux relay box was pretty dusty so don't think it's towed in a while. I got my self a controller and the jumper harness to go form the factory connector to the controller, then went to local parts supply and got two standard auto relays and a 30 amp maxi fuse. I noticed after installing the system the reverse lights stay on after putting the truck in reverse, they don't even go out with the key off.
Did some further testing and found pulling fuse 28 (central Elec) the circuit stay powered up, but only after shifting to reverse the first time. Can only turn off lights so far by pulling the trailer relay at the back of the aux. relay box where the two "towing" relays go, I fairly certain it's the "Trailer back up lamps relay". The power mirrors stay powered up too so the relay control circuit is staying powered but only after the relay is energized. What the issue maybe or where to look for a short? I guess there is the a less obvious possibility too - did ford use some funky special wiring for the relays meaning my standard automotive relays from the parts store are incorrect?
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Hooked up the trailer today for the first time, i have running lights, right turn signal, and no left blinker. left bulb looks good. dual filament. #6 fuse inside truck looks good, can't figure out why no left blinker... trailer worked fine on my previous truck. Not sure what to tackle next..
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Any info if the "Aux" terminal on the trailer harness wiring on '01 F250s is for reverse lighting? I'd like to put some on my stock trailer. Also, is the "12v" terminal feed switch operated or hot always?
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Inconsistent connection through 7 wire plug and no taillights on four wire plug.
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I am putting a winch on my trailer and I got an optima marine battery to run the winch. I would like to wire it into my trailer wiring so that it will charge off the truck while its running, but so that it won't draw off the truck's wiring while I'm winching... I'm worried about the size of the wire and the fuse on the factory hitch wiring. I'm probably not going to be doing any extended winching, just pulling things up on the trailer. I may just unhook it from the wiring whenever I'm winching?
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So on our trip up here I experienced a strange problem. Normally when I apply my brakes my trailer brakes kick in via the controller. This time when I apply the brakes I'm only getting my truck brakes. I can still use the brake controller manually to slow down but it's worrying. What is going on.
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Does the Excursion charge the battery on my travel trailer while driving? I never boondocks but have a new electric tongue jack and wonder about that. I know it charges with a shore line I just assumed it did while driving too.
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2000 7.3 180,000 miles. It sounded like I was in passing gear from the turbo but not as loud or strong. The tach never moved like it would if it was in passing gear. We kicked it in and out of overdrive, pushed the O/D, no change. Then while driving it would just go quite/back to normal. Oh forgot, this was while pulling a cargo trailer with a total weight of about 4,500 lbs...
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What is the color wire coming out of the fuse box for the Trailer Tow Battery Charge? It's number 115 in the fuse box and a 20amp FMX fuse I believe. It's a 2005 6.0l 2WD Eddie Bower Excursion...
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So I finally towed our new to us travel trailer home tonight and the spot I created at my house to park it in required a lot of backing to get it shoe-horned in its place. As I was almost finished I smelled a burning smell and my wife said she saw some smoke from under the hood. I had neglected to look at my newly installed trans temp gauge during all the maneuvering as I was watching my mirror and the trailer so closely.
The gauge had reached ~180F and it was only about 55F outside. I know this violated the ambient plus 100 rule, so I allowed it to idle and cool down to 140 or less. When I got the trailer unhooked and the Ex back in the garage I crawled under it and the smell was definitely burnt tranny fluid and it was coming from the front of the bell housing or the access hole for the torque converter, not 100% sure.
So my question is, have I toasted my tranny, or was it just a mild overheat situation and it will recover just fine? If I am towing and the trans temp gets above 180 again will it start leaking most likely? Is it just something like a pump seal that I could drop the tranny and replace relatively easily, or have I most likely done internal damage. Hoping I did not just cost myself a tranny build on a truck with only 73k miles :-(.
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My park lamp circuit is dead. I have tested with a multi-meter and there IS power at the fuse. However, no power at the plug. I have pulled the bumper and found the plug for both the rear taillights (the park lamp circuit WORKS in the taillights) and the trailer wires. Confirmed it is dead there as well.
Both bundles go into the frame rail at the fuel tank, but I not sure which is which where it comes out at the firewall. A web search did not reveal a diagram and the Ford repair CD I have does not list Excursion diagrams.
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2002 7.3 4R100 ... The truck started flashing the O/D light pulling a 9K lb trailer on the highway.
The transmission codes read were P0705 (Range Selector) and P0873 (bad 3-4 shift - RPMs did not drop).
On the highway, the TCC seemed to lock up fine in 4th (OD button was set to leave O/D ON). When the truck would downshift (not often) then it would sometimes would rev high when it downshifted. It was like 3rd was slipping or it was downshifting into 2nd instead of 3rd. I think it was doing a 4-2 downshift but not 100% sure.
What confuses me is that if it is doing a 4-2 downshift then it would have to change state of both valve body solenoids. Is it possible that it was doing a 4-3 shift but solenoid was sort of sticking? Trans fluid looks fine.
I have read other posts where people had same problem (titled 3rd gear slipping), but they never seemed to resolve the problem in the thread. How likely is it that the solenoid is the problem? It seems to drive fine in 3rd when the O/D OFF button is pressed and O/D is not allowed.
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I am having a problem with trailer lights and an 03 350. When the truck is in reverse the fuse for travel trailer running lights and tail lights blows immediately. Changing plugs on the truck did not work. Truck has been hooked up to 4 other trailers including another travel trailer with no problems. Our travel trailer has been hooked up to an 08 and a 2011 truck with no problems. Fuse 38 20 amp. 7 post rv plug.
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I just bought a 96 f250 5.8
Upon driving home, i tried the ac again and the ac clutch started to smoke. I replaced the clutch with one from autozone, but when I tried it again, it made a screaming death noise upon clutch engagement. Is my compressor seized?
I tried to turn the clutch (not the pulley, that spins fine) by tapping one of the slots and bolts with a screwdriver/hammer. It was firmly locked in place. If the compressor was OK, would it have turned easily? If I need to replace the ac pump, who sells a good/cheap/reliable one?
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I turned on my AC in my 94 ford f250 and it made a squealing noise then I started to smell smoke or more like electrical burning. I turned off the AC and the squealing and burning stopped. I found that the compressor was the problem and after pulling the pulley and clutch assembly off I found that the coil had melted or got really really hot and smelled lie it had burned. My pulley and surpentine belt were still spinning fine so what happened? My AC had worked fine a few weeks before this.
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I got smoke form my tailpipe today. We just bough a new 35 foot TT and towed it for the first time about 160 miles. I pulled into the park and had to climb a steep hill. I down shifted to 1st and when I got to camp office it started smoking. From up front it looked like white/grey smoke and smelled a little. Smelled hot. I did accidentally overfil the oil before we left. Almost a quart. We to camp store after all set up and the truck seemed fine. No dash lights came on and temps were running normal.
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Had this thing rebuilt less than 8k by a reputable local trans builder and the reverse started to fail on me told the guy the problem and said everything is "normal". Drove it and the thing started to act up slamed out of OD and the light started to blink. Took it to the guy to get it checked and said most likely the tranny is toast the fluid does smell burnt.
Then he told me that I had two codes and that they were the cause of the tranny to fail, the codes were P1105, P1106 and that the voltage going to the solenoids was low roughly at 8.6 volts... Can the alternators have anything to do with tranny messing up? I took the to be tested and both alt are good I have a constant supply of 14.4 volts from the alternators. Can this be the pcm taking a dump?
Forgot to mention that this is a 2001 f250 platinum Edition 7.3 power stroke.
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I have a 2004 F150 4x4 super crew with te 5.4L in it. Truck has 200K plus miles on it and I went to start it after driving (it may have say for 10 min) the truck hesitated and didn't start and smoke started coming from under the hood. Looked like it was coming from the drivers side maybe mid fender or closer to the firewall. Look at it and nothing was on fire but something defiantly happened cause now its compensating for something. The rpms are up from what they usually are and the drivers information was cleared. Truck runs now but just worried
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I have a 2013 6.7 that I had fully deleted with 5" pipe turbo back and have a H&S Tuner. It was all done approximately 1000 miles ago or so. Recently I noticed after a cold start, after a rev (enough to push out black smoke) I would get white smoke follow the black. I did a light rev today and only white smoke came out after a cold start. I only have 1/4 tank of gas and truck has sat for a week. It sits a lot as it's not my daily driver. This could possibly be just moisture build up!! What are other possibilities of why I'm getting white smoke?
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