Ford Excursion :: Sound And Vibration While Driving Forward - Possible Vacuum Leak
Apr 28, 2017
I have been having some issues I think are vacuum related but I'm not sure how to correctly diagnose or pinpoint exactly where the problem is. 2 issues that seem vacuum related:
The first is a sound and vibration I get while driving forward. While the wheels are moving, it sounds just like a baseball card in bike spokes, it usually happens after I backed out of a parking spot and put it back into drive. I will get that sound and vibration until I slow down, and just as I begin to stop, I feel and hear a big bump and the sound goes away.
The second is the old climate control settings. The settings switch without moving. Sometimes while I have the AC running through the dash vents it will switch to the defrost setting and then back to AC after a couple minutes. Sometimes it won't stay in the defrost setting and switches to the vents. How to diagnose?
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Ok, I have capped off the vacuum lines to the front hubs and replaced the vacuum solenoid on the passenger inner fender. Still stuck on defrost. I know there are several options from this point what would be the next step after what I have just recently done. Going away on a ski trip and would like to have it working properly before I go.
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So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
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Ok, I know I have a vaccum leak. I have manual hubs now and those lines are capped. The AC is blowing through the deforst and the pump is running non stop. I have replaced the vac pump a couple of years ago and it worked fine then. any other places to look?
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Having problem on mrk 6, sounds almost like a high pitched vacuum leak but I can't find it.
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My mother, who is retired, has a Subaru Forester, probably a 2001 or thereabouts. It runs great, but recently whenever you let off the brakes, there is a high-pitched whistling sound that comes out of the dashboard on the driver's side. My mother claims that she took this to a mechanic and they told her that there is a small vacuum leak in the power brake line. They also told her that the leak was small and that there was no hurry to fix it (that was in April). Now it is August and my mother is still putting off fixing it because of the cost. They will have to pull out the engine and the dashboard to get to the leak. In the meantime, she continues to drive the car saying that the worst that will happen if it fails is that the power brakes won't work, but she'll still have her regular disk brakes, she'll just have to mash down her foot a little harder. Is this safe?
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I can't isolate whether this is in the transfer case or the front axle.
While driving along at a moderate speed in 2WD the truck GRADUALLY began making a grinding sound, similar to riding on grooved pavement or over a steel bridge. It stops IMMEDIATELY when switched to 4WD.
I can ride for 10 miles before the growling begins. When switched back to 2WD the noise returns gradually usually after a minute or so.
The frequency of the sound is faster than the rotation of a driveshaft and it continues right down to a very low speed at just about the same intensity.
I've read a few posts on here that suggest spindle bearings, but the problem came on very abruptly and usually bearing problems, from my experience start small and get worse. Last week I changed brake pads and rotors.
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I have a 2000 excursion 6.8l v10 4x4. While driving on the highway and reaching 80mph, the suv starts making this grinding sound like it's trying to get into gear. The SUV starts to shake. when i drive at a lower speed it goes away. it doesn't make the grinding sound while driving on back roads. What could it be?
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I got new tires a few months ago and when the shop was putting them on they said the driver's side ball joints had a little wiggle in them. I've noticed it has gotten worse and I am going to change them prob next week. I am just going got do both sides while I have it torn apart. I have found some great info on how to do that. I also have noticed some ratcheting sounds from the drivers side hub when I start the truck and accelerate, and then it feels like there's a pop and the sounds goes away. Also if I flip on the 4x4 switch while there is the ratcheting sound it goes away. Is that just from a vacuum leak in the system? I don't know a whole lot about that, or what hoses are vacuum hoses etc.
I haven't really looked in the manual that much yet. My big question is this, I was driving down the freeway going about 70 when all of a sudden there was a gear grinding type sound, kinda like when you try to start a car that has already been started and the starter teeth make that grinding sound. Could it be that the axle has started to get some play from the ball joints getting worse and then it just reached the right RPM to cause a crazy vibration? Or could the 4x4 have a possible malfunction to where it tried to engage but the truck was going too fast? It hasn't happened again, but I have not gone 70 again either.
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My ford's 4x4 will work if I manually lock in the hubs. If i use the auto option it will not engage. I can feel the rear end diff lock when I put it in 4-low so I know the switch is working. I think it is a vacuum actuated system. How to find the leak or diagnose the problem?
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I know all about vacuum leaks and such causing this problem, and I tend to think that is my problem. But isn't the temp change dial also vacuum controlled (in my case of an 06 f250 6.0) by that valve near the oil fill tube on the passenger side? I ask because, while I am stuck on defrost i can change the temp of the air that comes out still, telling me there is enough vacuum in the system to at least control that.
I also know everyone talks about checking the ESOF system for cracked lines/leaks, but this shouldn't come in to play unless I have 4WD selected or if the EFOF solenoid is bad, right? I just got done tearing the top end of this engine apart, twice, for oil temp problems and am about done working on this POS!!!
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I have a 2005 Ford focus. I haven't even had it 8,000 miles. THREE times it has overheated, and I've had to replace over a gallon of coolant. The first two times, the cause was a leaky 'vacuum' cap. The third time it was a different cap that was leaking. This radiator has two (that I know of) unused ports on it. A 3/8" one on the top left, and a 5/8" one on the bottom left. They are capped off with little rubber vacuum caps, which are quite simple to replace. But, these things don't last long before they start to weather and crack and leak. I just replaced them after 2,000 miles (before they started to leak), and they're already cracked. But oddly, only on the OUTSIDE. Inside they're still smooth and unbroken.
I've asked for advice at auto parts stores, mechanics, and even at a radiator shop. They all say they've never heard anything like this before?! I just got some silicone vacuum caps which are specifically rated for high temps, but they're so thin I'm not sure I wanna install them.
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So I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
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My truck has a vacuum leak or something. it will not start no mater what i do until i take off the vacuum house that goes from the back of the throttle to the right side of the valve cover. and when it running if i put it back it stop.i have changed that vacuum hose and the connector on the valve cover. What is going on here?
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I'm having a little bit of trouble finding the cause of a minor problem on my 06 Explorer with the 4.0 V6 engine. When the engine is running cold at idle, it runs a bit rough and idle speed is high as well. When fully warm, the engine runs and idles fine. I hooked up a scan tool and there are no pending or stored codes. The live data looks ok except the long term fuel trim which is at about +10% on both banks during idle, indicating a lean condition. Short term fuel is right around zero. The MAF and TPS values seem to respond fine when applying steady throttle.
So I assume there must be a fairly small vacuum leak somewhere that the PCM is able to compensate for since the long term is only at 10. I didn't see anything obviously wrong, the vacuum lines look fine along the passenger side near the firewall. I sprayed a bit of throttle cleaner along the hoses, intake manifold and gasket area, but could not spot any vacuum leaks. Any other common areas to check for leaks on the 4.0 V6? Perhaps there is something I am missing?
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I popped a code this morning PO442 emission control evap [small leak]. Would this be a vacuum hose leak? I did both heads about a month ago. Any way to narrow down the troubleshooting on this problem?
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I have a 2004 F250 CCSB 6.0 diesel. The problem I'm having is that vacuum is bleeding off when the control is set to OFF or MAX A/C. I also have no vacuum at the MAX A/C level to close the heater valve. Looking for a vacuum schematic for an 03 or 04 truck with manual controls or how to know what the malfunction is?
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It has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
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Long story short, I have a small vacuum leak in the 4wd system. I disconnected the lines going to the hubs to prevent grinding them to pieces as they are brand new. This, of course lock the front hubs in and disengages the X-fer case in 2wd.
It is not engaging in 4wd unless I select it, so I don't imagine it hurting anything in the X-fer case or anything. Other than the extra rolling mass, is this okay to operate at until I resolve my vacuum issue, provided I close all openings and places for trash to get in?
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Searched several times over the winter. Finally tore each hose out one at a time and went carefully over it before returning or replacing.
Turned out to be the long formed semi flexible vac. hose that runs from the gas fumes purge tank control valve group to the throttle body across the top of the engine. Ripped it out, on one of the bends was a small crack all the way thru, apparently would open up wide when stressed and cause problems. Mainly on hill pulls or hard acceleration but not every time. NO hair left after this one.
Replaced, deleted the codes. Runs like a top.
Still amazed at how much power these 4.0L V6 OHV Fords have from low speed on an uphill on ramp drag race.
stirs the old hot rodder blood.
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This has been on going for the past year. The blend works fine. Fan speed works correctly. The selection for ac, max ac, etc., will only allow air through defrost vents. Vacuum leak?
1998 4.6 auto super cab
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